Quite a bit. If you plug one in for a couple hours you can feel warmth from the heater on start up.
-
Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
Provience
Kill!
good to know, the freeze plug style seem like a more prudent option than the ones that go in the lower radiator hose, from a packaging standpoint. just never knew if the smaller element was enough
WiscoF100
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #543
This much heat until it didn’t. It’s 400w.
Would completely melt the hood and drop ice off the sides
In the shop at say 50* water was 100+
The hot pins must’ve melted off from the element per my continuity testing between the 2 units. It stopped working after the last time I left it plugged in for 3-4 days.
Going to use a programmable timer from here out. Give myself a 2-4 hour window of operation sub single digits. Guessing game when I get off work each day 😕
It’s replaced and stuff. Spilling the coolant back in now
Would completely melt the hood and drop ice off the sides
In the shop at say 50* water was 100+
The hot pins must’ve melted off from the element per my continuity testing between the 2 units. It stopped working after the last time I left it plugged in for 3-4 days.
Going to use a programmable timer from here out. Give myself a 2-4 hour window of operation sub single digits. Guessing game when I get off work each day 😕
It’s replaced and stuff. Spilling the coolant back in now
Provience
Kill!
Wife uses programmable timers for the seasonal lights and also outdoor heating pads for the stays, they hold up really well. Good for all weather and sun and 15 amp rated.
rattle_snake
****wits
70s here in AZ nice motorcycle riding weather. 
Ghetto Fab.
No idea what I'm doing
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 208
- Messages
- 1,167
15 Amp 120-Volt Smart Wi-Fi Bluetooth Outdoor Plug with 2-Outlets Powered by Hubspace
Have been using these to power the christmass lights and pool during the summer. Used one on a vacation to make sure the kids lizards heat lamp would turn on and off as needed. These have blown away any other light timer as far as I'm concerned. It connects to your wifi system so it always knows what time it is. You can have it run on any schedule you want or control it from your phone. So if your work time differs from the expected you could always just control it with your phone.
Have been using these to power the christmass lights and pool during the summer. Used one on a vacation to make sure the kids lizards heat lamp would turn on and off as needed. These have blown away any other light timer as far as I'm concerned. It connects to your wifi system so it always knows what time it is. You can have it run on any schedule you want or control it from your phone. So if your work time differs from the expected you could always just control it with your phone.
reptillikus
ate lug
i use one of those mechanical wall timers from Lowes. Its set to turn on an outlet on the outside of the garage 3 hours before i would leave for work, and turn off one hour after i would leave. If i even think ill be driving the truck (7.3 PSD) i can plug it in at pretty much any point in the day and not have to worry about it.
WiscoF100
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #552
Block heater #2 **** the bed with less than 20hrs run time. 2hrs a shot. It’s leaking from the plug in fact. Whatever. At least the lows are above 10*. Truck will start.
Simplified the wiring once again. Alternator runs to starter and direct to battery. 1 cable. Cleans up the fender. Gonna do something about the solenoid and circuit breaker etc when I replace the heads. Might replace solenoid with a relay? Going to connect choke to the stator as well.
Snow storm after snow storm slows everything down. Snowblower was broke down this morning. Ariens drive belt issues.
This thing has a weekly subscription to the gas station. Still hasn’t quit.
1 day off and I planned completing 1 head but climate had other plans. These castings were definitely ****-it-friday quality. All chambers have this nipple between valves.
Massive plug intake ceiling. All 8.
Lots of casting flash
Good bye silly little bump
Before any desktop dyno experts flip out, I laid out a guide to bring the ports into shape consistent with a gasket. Not gasket match. Although the gasket is pretty close to the port anyways. My focus is the ceiling, head bolt protrusion, air port injection, blend guide and bowl. The short turn has a lip. I’ll blend it but won’t touch the short turn.
Several intake bowls have the roughest machine job from the plant. I’ll try “unshrouding” the chamber but not much effort. Same minimal effort to polish the chamber as well.
I’ll bring the exhaust to a high polish. Not much focus on the intake other than intentionally leaving a consistent pattern with the burrs.
Bought the heads in November and couple days later here we are in March. Maybe the heads will be installed before next November.
Oh. And distraction…..I better stop collecting vehicles until after I move
Simplified the wiring once again. Alternator runs to starter and direct to battery. 1 cable. Cleans up the fender. Gonna do something about the solenoid and circuit breaker etc when I replace the heads. Might replace solenoid with a relay? Going to connect choke to the stator as well.
Snow storm after snow storm slows everything down. Snowblower was broke down this morning. Ariens drive belt issues.
This thing has a weekly subscription to the gas station. Still hasn’t quit.
1 day off and I planned completing 1 head but climate had other plans. These castings were definitely ****-it-friday quality. All chambers have this nipple between valves.
Massive plug intake ceiling. All 8.
Lots of casting flash
Good bye silly little bump
Before any desktop dyno experts flip out, I laid out a guide to bring the ports into shape consistent with a gasket. Not gasket match. Although the gasket is pretty close to the port anyways. My focus is the ceiling, head bolt protrusion, air port injection, blend guide and bowl. The short turn has a lip. I’ll blend it but won’t touch the short turn.
Several intake bowls have the roughest machine job from the plant. I’ll try “unshrouding” the chamber but not much effort. Same minimal effort to polish the chamber as well.
I’ll bring the exhaust to a high polish. Not much focus on the intake other than intentionally leaving a consistent pattern with the burrs.
Bought the heads in November and couple days later here we are in March. Maybe the heads will be installed before next November.
Oh. And distraction…..I better stop collecting vehicles until after I move
rattle_snake
****wits
What is the white **** on the ground?
Going to be 100 here next week not looking forward to the sauna season.
Going to be 100 here next week not looking forward to the sauna season.
rattle_snake
****wits
Why wire the alternator to the starter instead of battery? Seems like battery is closer?
I did same when I had the battery in the bed.
I did same when I had the battery in the bed.
WiscoF100
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #555
Ooooh I need one of those 👆👆👆
Just to declutter the wiring going up to the battery. Planning for battery behind axle someday. Starter was same distance from battery so I just laid the wire down under the headers. It’ll never be as clean as your OEM under hood wiring.
Any chance of saving this type of valve seal?
Just to declutter the wiring going up to the battery. Planning for battery behind axle someday. Starter was same distance from battery so I just laid the wire down under the headers. It’ll never be as clean as your OEM under hood wiring.
Any chance of saving this type of valve seal?
Provience
Kill!
No, buy new valve seals. They are cheap and wear out eventually.
Otherwise, yeah, reuse them. They don't do much anyways and a little bit of oil smoke never hurt anybody
Looking forward to more pictures of the head grinding
Otherwise, yeah, reuse them. They don't do much anyways and a little bit of oil smoke never hurt anybody
Looking forward to more pictures of the head grinding
WiscoF100
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #557
They’re brand new. Don’t want to waste them. I’ve never used a steel cup as these are. Just umbrellas or full rubber body with steel band/ring.
Guess I’ll try some fuel hose on pliers to wrestle them off. Otherwise maybe plug the guides with spit wads and tape the living hell out of the seal side to keep it clean?
Chips are gonna start flying tonight.
Also worth noting, it doesn’t appear these valves were lapped. Buy a lapping tool and green can or send it? Lap themselves at 5,000 rpm?
Guess I’ll try some fuel hose on pliers to wrestle them off. Otherwise maybe plug the guides with spit wads and tape the living hell out of the seal side to keep it clean?
Chips are gonna start flying tonight.
Also worth noting, it doesn’t appear these valves were lapped. Buy a lapping tool and green can or send it? Lap themselves at 5,000 rpm?
Provience
Kill!
Lap them yourself by hand, it's easy enough. Doesn't take much pressure or speed.
If you are doing the head work yourself, leave the valve seals if they are brand new. Do you need to remove them for some reason?
If you are doing the head work yourself, leave the valve seals if they are brand new. Do you need to remove them for some reason?
WiscoF100
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #559
Just to protect them from the chaos about to ensue. Mostly concerned about harming them with solvent when I clean up. If they don’t twist off, thoroughly plugging the guide should keep everything clean.
Egg beater style is what I used as a kid. I didn’t like the spindle type. Too much work rubbing your palms together like a Boy Scout.
Egg beater style is what I used as a kid. I didn’t like the spindle type. Too much work rubbing your palms together like a Boy Scout.
WiscoF100
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #560
Seals came off without damage. Tight buggers.
30 minutes on one exhaust. Probably take hour total for each port with a carbide. Cartridge rolls finishing everything should probably be 50% time.
Roof and upper side walls profiled. (Complete minus cartridge roll treatment) Went way into head bolt lump. If it looks > on the right side, it’s because of the casting. I didn’t under cut that profile.
Around the guide is the most consuming. There’s a casting ridge and a channel to navigate and you’ve got to focus to avoid chatter and kill something like the guide or seat.
30 minutes on one exhaust. Probably take hour total for each port with a carbide. Cartridge rolls finishing everything should probably be 50% time.
Roof and upper side walls profiled. (Complete minus cartridge roll treatment) Went way into head bolt lump. If it looks > on the right side, it’s because of the casting. I didn’t under cut that profile.
Around the guide is the most consuming. There’s a casting ridge and a channel to navigate and you’ve got to focus to avoid chatter and kill something like the guide or seat.
WiscoF100
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #561
Mods
It’s not photogenic for now but all injection ports removed tonight. What a difference! Going to plug holes with 5/16” rod, rose weld/profile. Exhaust crossover will be capped off (plated) but restricted with 3/8” hole. I can’t go without manifold heat in this climate. Full day progress tomorrow
It’s not photogenic for now but all injection ports removed tonight. What a difference! Going to plug holes with 5/16” rod, rose weld/profile. Exhaust crossover will be capped off (plated) but restricted with 3/8” hole. I can’t go without manifold heat in this climate. Full day progress tomorrow
WiscoF100
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #562
12hrs is a good estimate per head. Driver side is finished. Passenger will be smoother as I have a good workflow established.
Only used these 3 tools and the cartridge roll
Before
After
Air injection plugs
Manifold crossover restriction. 3/8” and gasket hole to match
Oil drain back contoured
Head bolt bump before
After. Hopefully I don’t regret that but I think there’s enough meat everywhere that bolt torque shouldn’t create a problem
Waiting for lapping compound to arrive before I can call this one finished.
I chased all the threads and removed casting flash where possible. There were some sharp daggers between intake runners/pushrod pass through that could slice you open. Also dug out a bunch of casting sand pockets in the tight corners that were missed at the foundry. Now everything is sanitary.
Lots of pictures. If anyone is curious about something specific. Let me know.
This was a lot of work. It better be worth it.
Only used these 3 tools and the cartridge roll
Before
After
Air injection plugs
Manifold crossover restriction. 3/8” and gasket hole to match
Oil drain back contoured
Head bolt bump before
After. Hopefully I don’t regret that but I think there’s enough meat everywhere that bolt torque shouldn’t create a problem
Waiting for lapping compound to arrive before I can call this one finished.
I chased all the threads and removed casting flash where possible. There were some sharp daggers between intake runners/pushrod pass through that could slice you open. Also dug out a bunch of casting sand pockets in the tight corners that were missed at the foundry. Now everything is sanitary.
Lots of pictures. If anyone is curious about something specific. Let me know.
This was a lot of work. It better be worth it.
Levigarrett76
Glass Half Empty
you make my best port work look like a drunk toddler in art class.
Nice!
I bet that ****s worth 20- 30ish hp in a truck engine
And all the under the curve
Nice!
I bet that ****s worth 20- 30ish hp in a truck engine
And all the under the curve
Levigarrett76
Glass Half Empty
Curious if your valves looked anything like these?
WiscoF100
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #565
Not yet they don’t These are new valves and heads I ordered from a machine shop in Maryland back in November.
Hadn’t thought much of it until you brought it up, it will be interesting what the heads look like that are coming off. They have 163hrs and 4,200 miles. I had cleaned the valves with a wire wheel. Can’t really recall what they looked like.
This is how they looked coming off the 400 donor engine. Both heads were similar
351M short block together. Original to the truck. Honed, TMeyer cam bearings, new main/rod bearings, oiling mods and new pistons/rings. October 26 2022
These plugs weren’t necessary this round because the exhaust ports are welded up now
Thanks for the compliment on the porting. I hope your estimates are close. I’ll just be happy if this thing doesn’t rattle/whine/tick/chirp anymore.
The list of things to do:
In-frame head swap
Remove block heater - install freeze plug
(Considering other options for heat)
Duraspark ignition cut-over
Wiring consolidation/Pertronix removal
(Repurpose Pertronix on our new British car)
Intermittent wiper switch/box
Really thinking the 650cfm carb needs to be a 750. I’m just not used to being so low in elevation.
Pipe dream is west coast swing this fall. Cross the rubicon with my Dad. But the set back is open rear diff and no crawl gearing. No time to build C6 with lower gearing. Another option is use the crawl box/205 from the race car but a stock cross member won’t work and I’d have to build (2) one-time use drivelines. Or maybe if I ever finished the racecar/crawler 🙄🙄🙄
These are new valves and heads I ordered from a machine shop in Maryland back in November.Hadn’t thought much of it until you brought it up, it will be interesting what the heads look like that are coming off. They have 163hrs and 4,200 miles. I had cleaned the valves with a wire wheel. Can’t really recall what they looked like.
This is how they looked coming off the 400 donor engine. Both heads were similar
351M short block together. Original to the truck. Honed, TMeyer cam bearings, new main/rod bearings, oiling mods and new pistons/rings. October 26 2022
These plugs weren’t necessary this round because the exhaust ports are welded up now
Thanks for the compliment on the porting. I hope your estimates are close. I’ll just be happy if this thing doesn’t rattle/whine/tick/chirp anymore.
The list of things to do:
In-frame head swap
Remove block heater - install freeze plug
(Considering other options for heat)
Duraspark ignition cut-over
Wiring consolidation/Pertronix removal
(Repurpose Pertronix on our new British car)
Intermittent wiper switch/box
Really thinking the 650cfm carb needs to be a 750. I’m just not used to being so low in elevation.
Pipe dream is west coast swing this fall. Cross the rubicon with my Dad. But the set back is open rear diff and no crawl gearing. No time to build C6 with lower gearing. Another option is use the crawl box/205 from the race car but a stock cross member won’t work and I’d have to build (2) one-time use drivelines. Or maybe if I ever finished the racecar/crawler 🙄🙄🙄
Levigarrett76
Glass Half Empty
Oh I gotcha. Fingers crossed for ya.
I plan to chuck em up in drill press and wire wheel em
, lightly file a back cut
20% increase, nice.
I plan to chuck em up in drill press and wire wheel em
, lightly file a back cut20% increase, nice.
rattle_snake
****wits
9" Detroit lockers are cheap on ebay, $200. Not sure what R&P you have now.
WiscoF100
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #569
Dana 60
Not so cheap
“Stock” drive ratio sucks horribly for wheelin. Even with an auto.
E4OD gears are as far as I want to go. Possibly a slightly looser converter. No sense putting a doubler in this truck as for now it’s a pavement princess.
Not so cheap
“Stock” drive ratio sucks horribly for wheelin. Even with an auto.
E4OD gears are as far as I want to go. Possibly a slightly looser converter. No sense putting a doubler in this truck as for now it’s a pavement princess.
Last edited:
WiscoF100
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #570
I want something smooth and reliable and full carrier replacement.
The ratchet Torq locker in the front is violently loud on asphalt. A spool and chirping tires is more low key than that. It’s louder than when I snapped the D44 shafts. Prolonged use in high traction environments I’m sure will kill such a style locker quickly.
Spline count plays into cost. Pretty sure mine are 30. Then comes the scope creep, new axles , selectable, etc (35spl)
The ratchet Torq locker in the front is violently loud on asphalt. A spool and chirping tires is more low key than that. It’s louder than when I snapped the D44 shafts. Prolonged use in high traction environments I’m sure will kill such a style locker quickly.
Spline count plays into cost. Pretty sure mine are 30. Then comes the scope creep, new axles , selectable, etc (35spl)