Build Family Size Rat crawler

Brain storm with me. Is it possible to build a “safe” roll cage and make it comfortable-ish? So far I have the bare minimum frame work for it. 2” .120 B pillar vertical and horizontal. 1 3/4” x .120 DOM for everything else. 2 of my kids have as long of legs as me and complain about hitting their knees and legs on my last roll cage I built. Sometimes we will drive to the trail and some trails are pretty mellow for an hour or so before we get to where they want to get out.
I can’t fit an X behind the back seat at the C pillar so I will put a 2” X outside of the cab that ties into the cage with flanges. Something like this 👇👇
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But… are there any options for building strength in the B pillar without crossing past their legs. Something like this?👇👇
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And are these side braces necessary? 👇👇 I have never added them to a cage before but have been noticing them on pre runners lately.
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Keep in mind… I am a mellow driver, my family is usually out of the vehicle walking along during any challenging or off camber areas of the trail. This won’t be a high speed truck, mostly just slow Northern California and west coast rock crawling. Let me know what your experience with this type of rig is, please.
 
Another thought for the B-pillar.

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If you really want something running up to the center point, you could do the yellow.

The extra C- pillar out side is fine. Tie it in to the inside C at the top corners and half way down the verticals if you can.

Door bars are just to keep **** from smashing in while you're strapped in the seat. No need to make a trip hazard out of them.

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I said I was going to build a “no bend” cage but… I lied. I realized that it was unrealistic to build it within my boundaries without bends in it. I set the seats up and it didn’t feel too bad in the back seat. I am sure it isn’t the strongest design, but it feels like a good compromise. And hopefully I will never need it.
 
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Time to get this 14bolt built!!

In the past I bought a u bolt yoke for my 14 bolt but are there any heavy duty straps? Are the 1410 series straps really anything to worry about?
 
Steve300xcw said:
thats the wrong bolt spacing though.
Click to expand...
huh?
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1350 / 1410 Yoke Bolt and Strap Kit

  • 1350 series and 1410 series bolt and strap kit
  • Steel straps fit 1.188" OD caps
  • 5/16"-24 (.312"-24) thread
  • 30-35 ft*lb torque recommended
Parts Included:
  • (2) straps
  • (4) bolts
Fits:
  • 1350 and 1410 yokes with threaded holes
Brand:
  • Dana Spicer
Part Number:
  • Dana Spicer 3-70-28X
Warranty:
  • 6 month warranty and case by case basis.
The part you need. The name you trust. Spicer U-joints and end yokes deliver top performance and value. Count on Spicer bearing straps and U-bolt kits to keep it all together. These strap and U-bolt kits are manufactured to the same genuine standards you've come to expect from the most reliable name in driveshaft parts.
Bolt Length:.750
Bolt Torque:32
C/L To C/L:1.806
Fits Bearing Cap Diameter:1.188
Series:1350/1410
Thread Diameter:.312-24
Type (Strap/Retainer):Strap
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
huh?
Click to expand...

pennsylvaniaboy said:
Steel straps fit 1.188" OD caps
  • 5/16"-24 (.312"-24) thread
  • 30-35 ft*lb torque recommended
Bolt Length:.750
Bolt Torque:32
C/L To C/L:1.806
Fits Bearing Cap Diameter:1.188
Series:1350/1410
Thread Diameter:.312-24
Type (Strap/Retainer):Strap
Click to expand...

Look at the bolt length. The long bolt stuff is different c-c than everything else.


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Thanks for the input everyone. I had a couple drinks the other night and ended up ordering gears, a locker, master install kit and figured since I’m going to be doing a full rebuild anyways, I might as well drop the dough on a new ubolt yoke. I really think a heat treated chromoly girdle of some kind would a good product to sell for these.
 
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I used my CNC at work to build my own diff cover and pinion guard. Unfortunately I don’t have a finger break to bend the cover so I had to cut it apart and fit it back together. I bought the Ubolt yoke and it showed up yesterday. I am just waiting for my gears and locker now. They should be here mid week. I think I have decided to use the old Dynatrac hi-steer arm that came with this axle I bought about 15 years ago. I’m going to make it double sheer and weld it to the knuckle along with the bolts.
 
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This is a brand new 5.13 Yukon ring gear… should I run it or return it?
 
abrogate said:
It’s a weird blemish. I would send it back personally. Not saying you’ll have problems, but it would bother me. It almost looks porous.
Click to expand...
Those are my thoughts too. If it shatters on the trail a year down the road I will know why. I was really hoping to have this axle back in this weekend 👎.
 
It appears that the as-cast surface didn't fully clean up during machining. Probably not a problem, but I'd likely send it back for one without any obvious flaws unless I was under a time crunch to install it ASAP. If you return it, then it probably would've been fine :flipoff2:

Ugh, frustrating :mad3:
 
I emailed Yukon yesterday. If they respond with “run it” then I will, but I assume that they will want me to return it just to be on the safe side. Now I will have a “paper” trail, so if I do run it with their blessing then I shouldn’t have a problem getting it warrantied. I wouldn’t say I am under a crunch but I really want this thing done ASAP just for my own mental well being.
 
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Rear axle is in! It’s a tight fit with the fuel tank skid plate. I managed to break 2 half in drive wrenches setting the 14 bolt pinion preload 👎. My PRP seats that I bought in the irate4x4 group buy came in. …. The only 3 major items left are
Finish the front axle
Finish plumbing the brakes
Throttle pedal and cable
 

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What material are those seats? I assume it's vinyl but I can't tell what specific option it would be on the website....

Side note.....damn, PRPs have gotten expensive since I bought my last set! Yeah it's been a very long time but they seem about double what I recall paying.
 
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