77 F150 4x4 SWB Budget build?

I dont think this next tank will be that good :flipoff2:
Been enjoying the mechanical secondaries
 
E-brake cable install a success.
Adjusted it for full grab, but no drag while wheels turn.


Is there a specific procedure for this? I would really like to tighten it up a bit more, but don't want to smoke the brakes. .
 
E-brake cable install a success.
Adjusted it for full grab, but no drag while wheels turn.


Is there a specific procedure for this? I would really like to tighten it up a bit more, but don't want to smoke the brakes. .
Light drag while the wheels the wheel cylinders. They will clear a touch and should live very close to engagement.

In my own stuff, I adjust, drive it for a day or two, adjust some more and repeat to walk it in to good engagement.

In reality I just live with a light parking brake and keep saying I'll tighten it up more in the future :laughing:
 
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Yall go any ideas how to adapt a ford kickdown to this old school holley roller linkage?

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I'd use a cable for the kickdown. Really do need a functional kickdown to get line pressure up at WOT.
$20 turd **** can all the brackets and make your own.
 
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a can cut up and folded a bunch worked for a rather long time
Can bent at wot? :smokin:
Is this the picture right before the 30 pk became a 29 pack?
Gotta fix that upside down wheel...
Ha ha ha
Yea, its on the list…been putting it off cause not sure how much of the horn pad will fall apart once i remove the po’s tape
I'd use a cable for the kickdown. Really do need a functional kickdown to get line pressure up at WOT.
$20 turd **** can all the brackets and make your own.
thx for the link, ill give that a go. I think it will be a-lot easier to rig up something to pull a cable rather than push a rod.

Any idea if it would be worth the extra to go to lokar or something?Lokar KD-20C6HT Lokar Hi-Tech Kickdown Kits | Summit Racing

I got no experince with any of em.
 
Cable is the way.

I have the summit and the only thing that is useable is the cable and kickdown shaft arm essentially. The sheath isn’t retained/swedged/clamped at carb end of bracket. Had to rig up something there. The engine bracket was only the cable side. No means to attach to manifold. No brackets on trans side. It works but I only used $5 worth of the **** in the bag. Of course I procrastinated this project until I set the cab over the engine!
 
Carb linkage✅
Cable✅
Trans linkage✅
Everything else is dumb

The cable isn’t swedged and I had to drill tap the set screw seen for the “cable end”. The cable is secured by vacuum tubing that I warmed and slipped on with silicone spray and a piece of 3/8 hose same process. Vacuum tube adapted to same diameter for fuel hose to secure to aluminum fitting. Also note 90* manifold bracket I made.
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Lever fits shaft but no way does the supplied bracket belong anywhere without adaptation. Made a bracket that properly aligns the range of motion. This should’ve been installed before I moved the cab on.
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Kit include a bag full of loose aluminum pieces. Good luck and thanks for shopping with summit.
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Right rear wheel seal started leaking ever so slightly, stole an axle out of parts truck and threw another timken set 20 on it, cleaned it up nice with scotchbrite etc.. i love those quick change axle plates.

Went ahead and adjusted carb, changed the 71 primaries to 72 and swapped .013” ifr wires back to .09”.

I Need more concrete…



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Tearing down the 400 that previous owner put in this truck originally, with loose flywheel bolts, missing rear cam plug and gasket shellac on the ****in head & intake gaskets.

ALL the red rtv, but he apparently put it on without cleaning so it peels right off.

Crank is .010, bores are .040. I'm thinking just light hone and new mains.

Worked out good, going with kb 10cc 1.7" Comp heigh pistons and mild cam, sourced an eddy performer intake from ebay. This will be going in my wife’s 79


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I didnt believe him that it really was rebuilt.
Indian head on head gaskets is a new one on me.
 
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When I brought it home I fired it without priming. Only ran it 60 seconds or so. I didn't believe the guy that it was rebuilt. I thought it was junk. Guessing that's where that main wear came from. Doesn't look like anything more than oil was used as assembly lube.

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Agree, call me surpised

Is the tapered part of rod supposed to be facing out towards the edge of crank journal?
 
Agree, call me surpised

Is the tapered part of rod supposed to be facing out towards the edge of crank journal?
They only go 1 way. Caps are numbered in order, caps match rods, but to be honest I can't recall :laughing:

Taper should likely go towards the casting and there may be an interference/clearance issue to show why
 
I took a close look at the heads. I don't think they have been gone thru..and someone put the newer style positive stem seals on it without the proper machining, so they are just loose on the stems..

So heads are going to get corrected.
 
Got it dialed in close enough for me. Mid 14's cruising. Power circuit mid 13's, WOT mid 12's.

7 mpg again....I got to stop with the ****ing burnouts and wot pulls.. or maybe not :grinpimp:

Speedo is 16% off

On the list is to swap another radio bracket in some time soon, previous owner's hole is annoying me.

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Been under the hood of the 79 lately


Out enjoying the 77 this weekend.

Did a once over on everything, including IR temp gun after our run yesterday in the warmer weather. Everything seems good so far.

Still need to pull tranny sometime soon and replace the damn input shaft seal....on a positive note its keeping the fluid fresh...
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