Build Tacoma 4500 build

Malburg114 said:
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I am jealous of your air filter....
 
Hatz33 said:
I am jealous of your air filter....
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It was hard to package that’s for sure. I’m sure it’ll double as an arm rest. I may look for a smaller one cause right now one of the seats has to come out to change it
 
Got the atlas shifters done. Rear shifter is in the driver side of the intake and front is on the passenger side. I can comfortably ready both without reaching so that’s nice. That was the final thing to finish for the center panel so i pulled that out and bead rolled it and painted it.

I then started on the rear driveshaft. I made it a little too long so I’ll cut the tacs and trim it tomorrow and then check the run out in the truck. Goal is finish both drivelines tomorrow and hopefully the clips I bought for the brake lines show up or the 6awg wire I ordered for the relay box power shows up.
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Driveshafts done. Got the rear run out down to .010 which I think is pretty good. Still have to check the front but it’s welded as it went together a little better I feel. Threw some paint on them.

Rear is 2.5x.25 wall with 1350 joints and front is 2”x.25 with 1350 joints. I machined the 2”x.25 wall tubing to accept the .120 wall ends I bought.

Tig welded all of it for better heat control. Still struggling with second passes and looking good but feel like I’m getting better
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Looking for some cost effective shut off valves preferably with a 1/8 npt inlet and outlet or -3an. Using a single output master for the time and worried about breaking a line and losing all breaks. A shut off valve under the dash would allow me to close front or rear. Will just standard plumbing valves from a hardware store work or will brake fluid eat the seals?
 
Malburg114 said:
Looking for some cost effective shut off valves preferably with a 1/8 npt inlet and outlet or -3an. Using a single output master for the time and worried about breaking a line and losing all breaks. A shut off valve under the dash would allow me to close front or rear. Will just standard plumbing valves from a hardware store work or will brake fluid eat the seals?
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I would look for something that's pressure rated with ptfe seals. Or buy from a brake supply company like Earl's
 
Malburg114 said:
Looking for some cost effective shut off valves preferably with a 1/8 npt inlet and outlet or -3an. Using a single output master for the time and worried about breaking a line and losing all breaks. A shut off valve under the dash would allow me to close front or rear. Will just standard plumbing valves from a hardware store work or will brake fluid eat the seals?
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Something like this ?

Brake valve
 
I used this one German made works great. But I only used in rear lines for park brake and to do front digs. Cutting brakes would be ***s. But this isn't the rig that needs cutting brakes.

MHA-Zentgraf Carbon Steel High Pressure Ball Valve, 1/4” NPT Female Threaded, up to 7000 PSI (500 Bar), BKH Type Hydraulic Flow Control Valve, 2 Port Shut-Off Valve : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific

MHA-Zentgraf Carbon Steel High Pressure Ball Valve, 1/4” NPT Female Threaded, up to 7000 PSI (500 Bar), BKH Type Hydraulic Flow Control Valve, 2 Port Shut-Off Valve : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific
a.co
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Its 1/4" but I used 1/4 npt to 3/8" female inverted flare fittings.
 
Malburg114 said:
Looking for some cost effective shut off valves preferably with a 1/8 npt inlet and outlet or -3an. Using a single output master for the time and worried about breaking a line and losing all breaks. A shut off valve under the dash would allow me to close front or rear. Will just standard plumbing valves from a hardware store work or will brake fluid eat the seals?
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I use a Parker ball valve as a line lock. It’s similar to the all star one posted, 5 years or so no leaks and holds very well.
 
Landy_Andy said:
Hi, got a link to the carrier bearing video, didn't see it on your IG account ? Thanks
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Send me a pm on Instagram and I’ll send it to you. Was probably just a story I posted. Easier to send videos there.
 
Any suggestions for a smaller jack that’s as stable as a floor jack?

Fixed the starter noise with some shims so that’s good.
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The screw jack style works well, more so if you’ve welded mounts on the axle at each corner for the jack lifting point to insert into.
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I have this one, Ive used it on all of my race UTVs and the 4400 car. Couldn’t use it on my 4600 as the body was too close, no way to get the jack on the axle without hitting the fender or bedside. You might be in the same boat, kinda hard to tell. Other than a floor jack I’ve seen people use bottle jacks and Humvee jacks which are like the standard emergency car jack style but go way higher. A lot of times they put a socket on the screw mechanism so it’s quick to get em up and down.
 
Well I hate to admit it but it’s not going to be done for koh 2026. Shifting to focus on making the ultra4 moab race on April rather there’s just to much to do in a short amount of time and with the extremely high entry fee for koh 2026, it’s not worth showing up untested and never driven the car. Plus I think it’s going to go faster than I know how to drive.

But we’ve still been plugging away. My dad was here last week and we finished the brakes minus one tee I was short. Got the throttle cable done. And a bunch of panels in. Exhaust tabs are in and my dad took those to wrap them.

Cut the exhaust tips. Welded the bottom on the air tank and got the new air compressor mounted as the morrflate wasn’t going to work for my needs so picked up an arb clone.
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All the link and shock bolts are shanked and installed with loctite and shanks anti siezed. Made the front links for the sway bar turned them down to 7/8 vs the 1.25 for the rear. Driveshafts are installed minus a few bolts as I got the wrong lengths. Axles centered and jam nuts tight.

I’m sure there’s more I’ve done that I’m forgetting. Started a new thing at work so been busy with that but it’s better for my future etc.

The big things left are the passenger floor which my dad made but just need to weld them up. Mount the body and mount the hood and fenders. I also think we are going to rework the rear some to raise the spare. It hangs pretty low and my dad thinks it’ll get hung up a lot which I agree especially on steep climbs. And I want to get that done before I get it weighed and springs ordered.
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