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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
Blase
Well-known member
Looks good. Great kit also! I'm curious though in your case why not 4 link the rear? Seems like you have plenty of room to do so.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
i was thinking the fuel tank would be in the way.
moving the gas tank creates headaches when attempting to pass emissions in CA
Blase
Well-known member
I scrolled back and see that he is still using the factory tank......its just removed while installing the 3 link. Makes sense now, I just wasn't seeing the tank in the pictures so I A$$umed he had a cell in the bed.
- Thread starter
- #606
well I am way to many hours into making this "kit" cycle correctly. The shocks were rubbing bad at bump with one side flexed out. I have messed with panhard locations, moving the frame side bracket up and down and the axle side and nothing helped. My only option seemed to be chopping the frame. Man that was a pain in the ass, I spent 9 hrs yesterday notching and plating it. I should have just cut the frame off at this point and back halfed it. I am probably 70hrs into making this thing cycle correctly. Anyways here are some pics. I only get to work on it during the weekends since the truck is at a buddies shop about an hour away
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- #607
I ended up notching out body mounts to fit the link brackets where they wanted to land. I also cut 2" out of the towers and moved them in to get everything to cycle correctly. These should be the updated pics of its current state
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Blase
Well-known member
It looks good. Kinda sucks to buy a kit and have so much trouble with it. Do you think its cause your truck wasn't bone stock or just required on kits of this magnitude?
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Almost nothing is ever as exact fit as they say. I've had issues with almost every bracket company, except motobilt.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
the struggle is real. but your getting there.
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- #612
The coil slider is the same OD as the coil spring so I opted to use that with a zip tie to let me adjust it. Lot easier to cycle and you don’t have to worry about scratching springs
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- #613
I think one of the issues is he designed the kit off a double cab frame which has different mounting points on the frame side link brackets, and he set it up so you don’t have to notch the frame which means your tires rub the springs. If you’re ok with tire rub then I’m sure the kit is a one weekend install job. I’m just an idiot and want as much uptravel as I can get
uh the springs are going to get hammered anyway, might as well get it over with
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
If you don't scratch the springs, you can swap them for different wieghts at most reputable retailers.
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- #616
This^ I bought springs but not sure the rates will be what I want to run so this way I can cycle it and not worry about swapping springs
Blase
Well-known member
updates? Is this thing at KOH?
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- #618
Negative, way too many broccoli headed ****s starting fights and jerking each other off. . Should be out there towards the end of February. It’s linked, working on fitting the bed then bed cage
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- #619
well I made some good progress last weekend. Got the frame plated some more and added some more tube to make everything more rigid. Went to final install my links and found my exhaust hit the upper link at full bump even though I set it up at full bump (must have shifted on me somehow). I also couldn't remove my upper link bolt on the frame side so lesson learned. Had to cut a lot of exhaust off and I will have to redo it.
Everything is painted now and 100 % installed. Also got the limit straps figured out. Pulling 16" of wheel travel, going to strap it at 14.5" to account for limit strap stretch.
Bump stops are back to 3" stroke, I pulled out the extra spacer I had in there when it was on chevy 63s. Next up is bed cage
Everything is painted now and 100 % installed. Also got the limit straps figured out. Pulling 16" of wheel travel, going to strap it at 14.5" to account for limit strap stretch.
Bump stops are back to 3" stroke, I pulled out the extra spacer I had in there when it was on chevy 63s. Next up is bed cage
Blase
Well-known member
Looks great!! Question.....is the rear track bar at an angle front to back? I think one of the pictures is playing tricks on my eyes. LOL
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- #621
Thank you! Yes the track bar is slightly angled due to the diff hitting it when it cycle through its travel. I could have bent the track bar to have it sit in line with the axle side bracket but didn’t want to deal with that
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- #622
Finally some updates, got this thing official to Roller status! Pretty stoked to feel like I am finally making progress. Spring rates are to soft so I will need to play around with some new rates. Currently at 200/225 with 2.5" of threads showing and zero preload. Sitting at 23" frame height with 7.5" of uptravel. I want it to be 25" to bottom of the frame pulling 9.5" of uptravel.
Got the cage tubes figured out, got a few more to throw in but its getting close. The bedsides were not fun to get set up because of how smashed up the sheetmetal is. Should have it driving by next weekend. Swapped my shock fittings to straights so I could make them work with the towers, notched the towers for the hoses and also had to redo my exhaust. Didn't account for the upper link bolt hitting the exhaust so I added a vband and removable tabs to make everything accessible
Got the cage tubes figured out, got a few more to throw in but its getting close. The bedsides were not fun to get set up because of how smashed up the sheetmetal is. Should have it driving by next weekend. Swapped my shock fittings to straights so I could make them work with the towers, notched the towers for the hoses and also had to redo my exhaust. Didn't account for the upper link bolt hitting the exhaust so I added a vband and removable tabs to make everything accessible
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- #623
Knocked out the rest of the cage this weekend, got the springs swapped out and painted everything. New spring rates are 16" 225/ 16" 250s with 1" of preload. Sitting at 24" to the bottom of the frame with right around 9" of uptravel and 7" of shock shaft showing. Still feels a little soft so I am going to add some more preload then use that as a baseline to shock tune and possibly add some stiffer springs. Pretty stoked on how it’s all turning out. Should be hitting JV end of the month for a shakedown
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
but why? had this discussion with a buddy. mine are correct long side down but his are not and im had no reason why. derail sorry.
cheers
on compression spring will bow, especially in rock crawlers with light spring rates. if you have the short side down there is the chance that the spring will rub the body. if left un checked it can wear off the end of the shock to the point of it having to be replaced.
for the east coast mudfest guys as the mud wears out the slider, with the long side up you run the risk of the slider splitting and wedging itself over the crossover nut and getting stuck.
if your spring selection sucks, there is a change the spring will pop off and get stuck on the bottom. long side down supports the spring when it goes below the shock body.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
thanks for sure
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- #628
I have always run them this way, every shock I sold from the manufacturer ran them like that to. It keeps the spring from dropping out at droop. Maybe that’s a personal preference thing but I’m going on 4yrs of wheeling on them with no issues
yea fox has been doing their customers a disservice shipping them that way since forever.
proper spring rate, 2” longer lower than shock travel and no more than 3” of preload and the spring never gets below the dust cap.
- Thread starter
- #630
On these rear shocks I had to go with 2 16” springs to make it sit correctly. Didn’t even know I could do that on a 14” coilover.
