77 F150 4x4 SWB Budget build?

Poor mans way to lean out the idle/transfer slot circuit.

Stock block doesnt have adjustable idle feed restrictors, power valve channel restrictors etc..
Double pumpers are typically calibrated on the richer side with larger IFR's and small PVCR's because they are designed to go on lower vacuum lumpy cam engines.
May end up biting bullet and buying one with screw in jets/bleeds at some point but this gets it fairly close.

Is it less teeth on the speedo gear that drives the speedometer faster for a given speed?
 
How these look to yall? One from
Each side of the dual plane
They all look similar. Long sides a little leaner
Number 2
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Number 1
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I think it means a little rich idle/light cruise, lean/ok part throttle and wot. I think the heat mark on the electrode being close to elbow says timing is close? Not sure what the grey/white electrode means?

But I've been running these plugs a year, and they have been subjected to really rich and really lean, and not optimal timing curves, so theres that.
This is after about 50 miles of running up and down the road and little bit of screwing off at WOT and idle on property.

I dont know **** about heat ranges. School me.
 
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That's another thing I'd have to look up every time. Other than saying "looks fine" and 2 looks better than 1. Unless you've got a way to influence the corner mixtures, which maybe. Might be worth running the idle mix screw above the #1 runner a quarter or eith turn richer than the other to see if it helps.

All my life reading plugs has been voodoo to me. I much prefer to tune off the vacuum gauge and now the wide band O2. Somebody will be along shortly to give better answers :laughing:
 
Thanks, I've never payed much attention either other than really bad or looks ok.
 
Replaced po’s fiberglass patched/butchered floors. Used up what paint i had laying around.

50’ rattle can paint job to cover the po’s bondo and bare metal. Just wire wheel to scuff it up, not interested in hours of sanding.

replaced driver door bushings. Adjusted doors


both doors lubricated everything including window regulators, installed speakers and door panels from dennis carpenter, new door seals glued on.

installed new floor mat, stole seat from the 79 and installed a crappy seat cover

installed new radio, sucks cause po cut the hole crooked and too high, ill eventually find a new backing piece to cut a new hole in.

washed up the visors and installed new headliner



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Wow interior is looking good. Did the floor come with holes cut or did you have to fit it all?

That and the door seals should really make a big difference going down the road.
 
WiscoF100 said:
Did you go with steel arm rest cups?
Click to expand...
I did, happy with them.
Did the combo kit from dennis carpenter that came with the cups and arm rests and hardware.
The po beat the passenger door up wrinkling the metal up good bit.
I worked it as much as a could to straighten out. I ended up using dorman door panel clips i had on passenger door and they held much better than the ones that came with the kit.
rattle_snake said:
Wow interior is looking good. Did the floor come with holes cut or did you have to fit it all?

That and the door seals should really make a big difference going down the road.
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Thanks.
Its lipstick on a pig. Not trying to make perfect, just better.
No holes were cut in the vinyl, I had to fit it all, i used a hole saw in reverse for the seat mounts etc.
Had to trim all 4 sides to fit and did a ****ty job, ****ed up the 4wd shifter hole too, enlisted some gorilla tape in a few places to church it up.

Its so much quieter.

Currently fighting with replacing rear glass.
New seal from rubber the right way is refusing to go on the new lmc glass.
 
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The steel cups make all the difference!

Issue getting the glass into the gasket channel or?
 
WiscoF100 said:
The steel cups make all the difference!

Issue getting the glass into the gasket channel or?
Click to expand...
Agree, very happy with them. Did not want the plastic holding that part of door on.

Issue getting the glass set into the gasket.
Finally got the gasket around the glass, it had to be heated, worked and stretched, with help of my wife.
The 4 corners are in only by the tension of the gasket, but the gasket’s channel just seems to small?
I start to get it worked onto the glass with heat, hammer and pick and it goes a little ways the pops back off.
YouTube videos they seem to go on much easier, just by force of hand, then stay on. That doesn’t happen with this one, I cant get more than a few inches and it pops back off.
(Thats whats she said)
Have tried vasoline.
Open to any tips/tricks

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Getting the gasket started was moderately difficult but once started I didn’t have issues with it trying to escape. Not at the point you’re at. Have you tried any sort of painters tape?

Side note. I have only the experience of installing my glass but after 2 brands of front gaskets, not all products are created equal…..or customer service. This is a cheap shot against prp. Precision rubber products. It’s the brand currently on my glass. If the issue wasn’t such a big deal like a windshield, the gasket would be nicely gifted back to them and will be someday.

Back glass is JBG and while it fit the glass nicely, the lower corners never offered much coverage on the cab and have since shrunken further. No leaks or hate just wish the lower corners covered the cab visually
 
It took heating the gasket and myself and wife to finally get it stretched on and seated in the corners. I’ve wasted a bunch of 2” painters tape trying to get the gasket to stay. By watching youtube videos it seems my gasket is extremely tight on the glass, i just can't get it to stay, the tape won't hold it, theres not enough glass in the notch so it just falls down.
I read that lmc’s gasket sucked, so i went with this rubbertheright way made in usa gasket that was recommended. This is lmc glass. Im about to just pull the trigger on a used 96 slider with gasket and roll that way.
 
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You think it might be a glass thickness or dimension issue?

Might of read some stuff about that on FB groups, rings a bell
 
I think its possibly thickness, from what i understand post 79 glass thinner, pre 80 is thicker. My seal specifically for 79, who knows what glass lmc sent. I just pulled the trigger on a used 96 window with gasket already on. Gonna smash this one with a hammer
 
passenger side axle shaft previous owner must have swapped. It had the old style bearing and seal robbed the parts truck to be able to use my set 20 Timken bearings and seals pulled the chunk cleaned up gasket Surfaces and scraped all the buildup out of the bottom of the housing and got that cleaned up installed new E brake cables, passenger side, ready to go back together still got to tackle the driver side, pulled the rear sliding window in anticipation for a 96 sliding coming in a week or so.
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Ran into another snag, bearing retainer plate not right for set 20 bearings.
got brakes bled, adjusted backlash from .055 to .015”🤣,
old bearing off on last axle. Gonna order the slotted bearing retainers

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Not worried about the pattern, **** it
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Got this bearing off axles cleaned up and scotch brited ready for install.
 
Very happy with their fit, got excited to try my now working ebrake and broke the cable from pedal to splitter....what i get for trying to be cheap.

Happy with the rear slider that came as well. functions great gasket is nice and soft.


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Dont mind my stunning workout attire

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Thanks
I was happy about that
One less window thats got to have some
And back one is most important
 
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