Blue MJ

fl0w3n · Dec 7, 2025

gt1guy said:
It would help, but for what your doing it's certainly not the end of the world.

It just needs to hold enough to keep the housing from leaking. But that would be an annoying thing to have issues with down the road. Hopefully enough RTV and the 2nd lower bolt would keep it together enough from leaking if the weld did crack.

Wife’s been sick so I’ve been stuck inside with the kids, hoping to see how the carbide does this afternoon and go from there. Either it chews nice and straight through to retap it or it gets opened up to fill it with weld and a stud.

Opiebennett · Dec 7, 2025

fl0w3n said:
Do I need the nickel mig wire though?

The high nickel stuff improves chance of no cracks at the cost of overall strength. It flows really well and is very ductile when solidified, but isn't nearly the strength of the steel or the fastener - but again - it's a thermostat housing, so would be fine.

But 70s-6 or whatever is in your MIG setup should be fine with good pre-heat.

Also easier to say from my house. haha.

Worst case it cracks out and you have to buy a nice HESCO / Edelbrock head 😀

fl0w3n · Dec 7, 2025

Opiebennett said:
The high nickel stuff improves chance of no cracks at the cost of overall strength. It flows really well and is very ductile when solidified, but isn't nearly the strength of the steel or the fastener - but again - it's a thermostat housing, so would be fine.

But 70s-6 or whatever is in your MIG setup should be fine with good pre-heat.

Also easier to say from my house. haha.

Worst case it cracks out and you have to buy a nice HESCO / Edelbrock head 😀

I’ll call you when it starts geysering on the trail and you can come trail repair it :flipoff2:

A big IF I keep this thing long term, meaning a second family wheeler enters the situation, my dream would be doing a basic 4.8 LS swap. Hard to justify “building” the 4.0 unless it’s because you want to.

fl0w3n · Dec 7, 2025

Got the bolt/remaining bit down enough that I could run a 3/8 drill bit into the head for 7/16” deep.

I think if I open up the thermostat housing to 7/16 it’ll blow through the wall into coolant passage.

I’m going to check the local machine shop Monday for 7/16-14 to 5/16-18 thread locking insert, otherwise I’ll just order from McMaster.

Hole is 7/16 deep but the front is kinda wallowed out so maybe 5/16 of the insert will engage. Should be enough to hold the damn housing in I hope.

If I had a lathe I’d just turn down a 7/16 bolt and make a stud adapter

Do you think I can install the insert with a flathead screwdriver or do I really need to buy the tool?

dnsfailure · Dec 8, 2025

fl0w3n said:
Looks 100x better without that dated bumper

I think I've driven by your place a few times, I recognize the truck :) Looks good!

fl0w3n · Dec 8, 2025

dnsfailure said:
I think I've driven by your place a few times, I recognize the truck :) Looks good!

Thanks! Stop by if you see me outside and say hi.

fl0w3n · Dec 8, 2025

Continuing on, EGRs are nasty.

I’ll be blocking it off and running a HO exhaust manifold. Didn’t take long to spot the exhaust leaks…

Inside the intake…

Nearly cracked off

Hit the intake with a pressure washer and got it decent

Block off plate and hit the block with a pressure washer where I couldn’t reach before. After the valve cover gasket and rear main during trans job, it’s actually been leak free so far. Then again it just sits mostly.

fl0w3n · Dec 9, 2025

Little bit more progress. Got the driver motor mount done.

Pulled the ps gearbox and pump. Used leftover frame plate pieces to cobble together an inner frame plate. Also added the Barnes brace leftover from white Jeep.

Putting a 4 bolt YJ box back that’s freshly rebuilt and already tapped. I’m just going to run it with 3 bolts for now like the XJ/MJ boxes. Eventually I might add a sleeve for the 4th. Couldn’t find long enough flange bolts so just got new grade 8s with grade 9 washers

YJ box needed just a little bit of grinding down on the casting to fit the brace I have. And now the Barnes steering box brace doesn’t grab the steering box but I want to add a bearing support anyways so I’ll modify it to work.

Had to stop to watch the baby but hoping to have the box bolted in tonight and start going back together with the exhaust and intake

fl0w3n · Dec 10, 2025

Am I missing something on steering? Getting the new box centered with the wheel and center of throw doesn’t equal the same turns lock to lock.

This is just the box mounted, steering shaft and steering wheel connected and only a pitman arm. No drag link.

7.5” of throw on the pitman arm lock to lock.

Center the pitman arm directly back at 3.75” of throw

Center the wheel based off this.

Then count amount of steering wheel turns from lock to lock and it’s 1-3/8 turns to lock right but 2 turns to lock left as counted from center.

It’s an old no clock spring column, it can spin infinitely so nothing in the column is stopping.

5/16 of a turn is 3/4” of pitman arm swing according to AI so not insignificant.

fl0w3n · Dec 10, 2025

Got the threaded insert into the botched thermostat housing hole, glad I didn't have to pull the head :flipoff2:

I mentioned I was just going to run the 4 bolt box with 3 bolts, but I thought if I'm not going to do it now when it's wide open access then am I really going to do it sometime in the future. So I started cutting.

Didn't have a long enough piece of 1" 1/4 wall so I had to scab two pieces together

She's in there solid now. The YJ box must be slightly different than the XJ other than the 4 bolts, the Barnes brace the grabs the gearbox near the sector output doesn't line up so I had to cut it off. It's fine, I want to add a pillow bearing anyways and for now an extra frame brace can't hurt even if it doesn't tie in the steering. Eventually I might use the brace as a starting point to build a winch mount off of so I can cut out the factory cross brace or at least parts of it.

Forgot to order a new Renix intake gasket with my HO exhaust manifold, the intake ports are slightly different on the HO gasket. No local places had it so had to order one and hopefully have it tomorrow and then keep with the reassembly. I want to drive this thing by the end of the week!

fl0w3n · Dec 15, 2025

Parts cannon is coming along. I was delusional to think it would be running by last week, I’m just slow at everything. Repinned some connectors I found that were broken, resisted the urge to dive into the wiring any further than what was obvious, removed the vacuum line mess and just running the critical stuff for now.

So far:
Water pump / thermostat / housing
H.O. exhaust manifold and new O2
Genuine Bosch injectors
Mounted PSC pump using stock pulley
Modified / mounted 4 bolt steering box
Made bracket / mounted Res

Still need to:
Buy / make PS lines
Buy / make new intake - stock one takes up too much space for PS line routing
Mount / plumb radiator once I don't need the space for access.
Relocate the ARB compressor inside the cab (res took it's spot)
Plugs / wires / check distributor alignment
Replumb HVAC vacuum - it's crumbly and currently just disconnected
Relocate charcoal cannister to under bed near tank to free up more space
Potentially relocate battery to bed if I use that spot for intake

I hate the mess of the wiring, I have the harness I started thinning own from the white jeep, I might finish that and swap it in to try and clean it up but that's a whole other project. I was thinking cleaning up the wiring with a 4.8 LS swap would be better :flipoff2:

Stock pulley alignment when pressing it back on

Made and mounted the res. Didn't quite come out like in my head but should work fine.

H.O. manifold needs a little bit of clearance to the Renix intake, it actually took more than this and that's more than I recall from last time. Intake gets kissed with a flap disk on the outside corners too.

Splurged on fancy nice genuine Bosch injectors

fl0w3n · Dec 15, 2025

I'm leaning towards using Lee Power Steering DIY high pressure hose and their barbed push on low pressure fittings and hose.

High Quality Steering Hose -6 2250 PSI Pressure Line

The highest quality pressure line steering hose you can get. We have tried and tested multiple suppliers over the years and this our steering hose of choice. This is a -6 steering hose and will work with our Re-Usable -6 pressure hose ends. Specs 2250 PSI Temperature range -40* F to +275* F...

leepowersteering.com

fl0w3n · Dec 16, 2025

Got impatient, went to my local guy and bought some stuff. XRP push on crimp stuff fo the low pressure side. Some MSHA compliant 5,000 PSI high pressure stuff. Unfortunately he didn’t have everything I need so still down for ~2 weeks while I wait for parts and do holiday stuff with family.

Also learned I don’t know how to measure AN fittings…

I thought this being 0.5 effectively was 8/16” or -8. Turns out that’s -10 and the out is -12.

Talked to Eric already and confirmed I’m not jeopardizing anything on a trail rig if I throw a -10 to -8 adapter on there and run the whole return side in -8 size to keep things manageable and use the hose and fittings I already bought lol.

But I’ll swap the PSC feed to -12 and just run that as-is from the res since it’s only 2 fittings and short run of hose, the pump should be nice and happy with that.

This is the snow ball part. I hemmed and hawed, thinking “this is just a trail rig” etc but after talking with Eric and Lee the importance of a filter was impressed upon me so I ordered the Radial Dynamics compact filter setup. And then what would be the point of all that if I don’t run a cooler… so I’m looking at some basic Derale plate fin coolers in -8

Luckily I wasn’t wrong on the pressure side measuring, that’s obviously-6. Local guy crimped one end and left the other end loose so I can cut and rotate the fitting how I want and bring it back to crimp.

I’m thinking this is my pressure feed routing.

fl0w3n · Dec 17, 2025

Question being an AN newb, what compound should I be using on the aluminum LP threads when assembling? How tight is right?

I have Loctite 545 for the pump -12 fitting, should I also use 545 on the -6 HP steel line?

YotaAtieToo · Dec 17, 2025

fl0w3n said:
Question being an AN newb, what compound should I be using on the aluminum LP threads when assembling? How tight is right?

I have Loctite 545 for the pump -12 fitting, should I also use 545 on the -6 HP steel line?

What? You mean the actual an/jic threads?

Nothing! Definitely not lock tight. They seal with the taper not the threads. The only thread in hydraulic that should have anything on it is pipe thread.

gt1guy · Dec 17, 2025

Here ya go.

I wouldn't put anything resembling loctite on AN threads. The proper way to tighten them is hand tight followed by a quarter turn.

Edit:
I have a **** ton of NASCAR take off AN hoses. A lot of water hoses do have some kind of goop on them. If I had to guess, it's something like a never seize.

The Freeak · Dec 17, 2025

Is this ok?

fl0w3n · Dec 17, 2025

YotaAtieToo said:
What? You mean the actual an/jic threads?

Nothing! Definitely not lock tight. They seal with the taper not the threads. The only thread in hydraulic that should have anything on it is pipe thread.

For the threads that go into the TC pump body, not the AN part, the 13/16-20 threads, there was some compound on it when I removed the -10 fitting. I asked PSC when I ordered the -12 to replace it what it was and they said loctite 545.

That just got me thinking to the AN parts, something to assemble them with or do they go together dry.

gt1guy said:
Here ya go.

I wouldn't put anything resembling loctite on AN threads. The proper way to tighten them is hand tight followed by a quarter turn.

Edit:
I have a **** ton of NASCAR take off AN hoses. A lot of water hoses do have some kind of goop on them. If I had to guess, it's something like a never seize.

Thanks, apparently I should have been identifying the male ends by just thread OD instead of fitting ID. Guess that’s where I went wrong.

The Freeak said:
Is this ok?

Good catch. I saw that too, and wound up having to replace the plug end on the CPS because it fell off when I was investigating that melt :laughing:

I think it’s going to be fine, I had to strip back some of the jacketing to get a good crimp on the new connector, and it’s pretty thick jacketing.

I actually tried to take the CPS off but turns out I shoved the trans up so far that even a custom bent wrench wasn’t getting it. Hopefully it’s not busted cus that would suck to do later :homer:

I was thinking about cutting access panel from inside to make it easier to unbolt if I ever have future issues. I did slot the CPS so it’ll just slide out once the bolts are cracked loose.

Opiebennett · Dec 17, 2025

I use like 4ea 12" extensions with a wobble and get it from basically the t case front output.

fl0w3n · Dec 18, 2025

Opiebennett said:
I use like 4ea 12" extensions with a wobble and get it from basically the t case front output.

I haven’t tried yet since getting the trans swapped, but I’m not sure I could do this any more with how high I set the trans to keep the tcase from hanging down below “frame”

Might need to ponder on that a little, CPS is known to go out on these old things, if I can’t field service it without dropping the trans that could be a problem lol.

fl0w3n · Dec 19, 2025

I hope this crosses off overheating power steering from the list of concerns :laughing:

Thoughts on mounting it? In the past I’ve just used a sandwich style bracket to grab the looped tubes exterior to the fins with some rubber as isolators. I’m thinking the same here since there’s nothing else solid to grab with a mount.

Flat bar passes behind the loops, one on each side. Another flat bar passes in front. Four 1/4 bolts pass through the loop, 2 each side, and thread into the back flat bar.

I’m also going to mount it driver side, roughly as held up, which is the 1/2 of the cooling stack that has the stock electric fan. Stock fan moves ~2k CFM so my thought is having it dual wired to come on with ECU control but also manual override to keep it on, I could bump this fan on if I need to cool things down more. I guess I won’t be running temp gauge on the PS, but if I hear or feel heat related signs I can flip the fan on.

RunningProblem · Dec 21, 2025

Hopefully you don’t get air bubbles with how tall this one is. Mine is probably half the width and I mounted it the same way. When I looked at things later it appears it is above the reservoir, and I don’t go wheeling so it’s never a problem.

Good job on the head fix.

I changed my CPS on a nice day at home, and kept the working one as a spare. Lots of extensions is the key to success. I think there is even smart idea of cutting one bolt hole so it’s a C shape to make installing one easier.

CRUISER’S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS. CLICK HERE.

Cruiser’s Mostly Renix Tips Technical DIY instructions covering common issues on the Renix XJ Cherokees and MJ Comanches (1987-1990). Preventative and proactive procedures to save you headaches, ti…

cruiser54.com

Tip 7. Drill to 3/8.

fl0w3n · Dec 21, 2025

RunningProblem said:
Hopefully you don’t get air bubbles with how tall this one is. Mine is probably half the width and I mounted it the same way. When I looked at things later it appears it is above the reservoir, and I don’t go wheeling so it’s never a problem.

Good job on the head fix.

I changed my CPS on a nice day at home, and kept the working one as a spare. Lots of extensions is the key to success. I think there is even smart idea of cutting one bolt hole so it’s a C shape to make installing one easier.

CRUISER’S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS. CLICK HERE.

Cruiser’s Mostly Renix Tips Technical DIY instructions covering common issues on the Renix XJ Cherokees and MJ Comanches (1987-1990). Preventative and proactive procedures to save you headaches, ti…

cruiser54.com

Tip 7. Drill to 3/8.

Hoping to not have issues even if it is a little higher - we’ll see. Final routing isn’t confirmed it’s still in my head until I get all the components and start playing.

I did slot the bolt holes on the one that’s in it now when I did the trans swap, so if I do need to change it out it’s just a matter of cracking the bolts loose and sliding it out.

fl0w3n · Feb 10, 2026

Threw some coolant in the block and pulled the serpentine belt so I could get this thing back in the garage. I don’t want the tires baking outside any longer than they already have and just having it in the garage makes a couple minutes here and there at night much easier.

Sounded damn rowdy with the new exhaust half complete and fresh injectors. Gave me some motivation to get this going sooner.

Case in point, chipped away a little and got some progress. Plumbed the heater core, just need to mount and plumb a recovery tank then replace the fan shroud I broke and cooling system upgrade is done.

Also got the high pressure line crimped and on loose, and got the pump feed hose made. It clears my modified air box perfectly.

I’m using the resistance of the hose and ****ing the fittings to get it to loop and swoop to clear the intake and the radiator hose. Any issue with that plan? I figure it might relax some as it heats up, worst case I need to make a hold down bracket to keep it from chafing the intake.

A little hard to see but I cut the bottom off the lower intake box to clear hose routing. I was thinking I can plastic weld a flat piece back on but then realized I probably will be fine if I just run an open filter and keep it clean. Maybe find some prefilter foam to get in there.

fl0w3n · Feb 10, 2026

I hate the ****ing wiring rats nest on this thing, but I know if I start touching it now that will snowball into a major rewire project.

Plan is to just get it running and going again and then build a separate new engine harness for it on the side so one day it’s just a plug and play affair. Hopefully.

RunningProblem · Feb 10, 2026

Call up Mittnz . Maybe you can both perfect wiring these things, create a pimptastic wiring harness, and charge me an arm and a leg for it.

Do you have lots of information about your power steering setup in here? I know nothing about them and sometimes think I want to upgrade to something 'better' (more expensive.

fl0w3n · Feb 10, 2026

RunningProblem said:
Call up Mittnz . Maybe you can both perfect wiring these things, create a pimptastic wiring harness, and charge me an arm and a leg for it.

Do you have lots of information about your power steering setup in here? I know nothing about them and sometimes think I want to upgrade to something 'better' (more expensive.

There's probably a small market for that, pretty much anyone with a Renix that looks at the rats nest wants it better.

The info is spread out. It started with a "deal" on a second hand unused Radial Dynamics v1 res. It's now grown to include a YJ 4 bolt box fresh rebuild from BleepinJeep, a PSC TC standard XJ pump with stock pulley, a Radial Dynamics filter, and a Derale 10x13 tube fin cooler.
I'll run -6 high pressure line between the pump and box, crimped locally by the hydro hose shop.
Pump feed from the RD res is -12, XRP push on with pinch crimps
Everything else is -8 XRP push on with pinch crimps

Routing will be pump -> box -> filter -> cooler -> res -> pump

I'm going to cap the ports on the box for now, just to get this thing going and see how it feels unassisted. I do have a single ended ram on the shelf, but that'll be a project for another time mounting it up. Hoping that keeping fluid air free, cool, and contaminant free makes un-assisted steering manageable enough considering the Dana 44 isn't the long term solution so I don't want to waste time mounting it up.

Mittnz · Feb 10, 2026

**** man, I wish I had been paying attention to your thread. So, I just did hydro assist, in a very similar setup, a few months ago. I have a whole shoebox full of AN fittings and stuff if you need any. As well as various odd lengths of braided AN hose, all sizes.

I used new OEM power steering lines for the high pressure side, and then I did some push-lock but also I used these PTFE hose fittings with the ferrule thing.

They say they are good to 1500PSI… not sure about that, but, I have ZERO leaks, so, I’m stoked.

I got the hoses to the ram, from SurplusCenter for dirt cheap, I think they were $12 each. 3/8" x 24" JIC 8F Swivel x JIC 8F Swivel SAE 100R16 Hydraulic Hose Assembly 5000 PSI NRP Jones [901364]

And then I got several feet of that black Protec hose sleeving cause it looks cool.

The other thing I did while doing all this AN conversion, is rip out all the hard lines to/from the tranny and replace with 6an braided hose. It’s super easy, this guy has all the thread measurement and adapters you need in his write up: Jeep XJ Transmission Cooler Line Ugrade - Craig Davis

EDIT: Oops, I meant to say these guys are in Fremont (or somewhere like SJ-ish) if you ever need last minute rice-colored stuff:

Mittnz · Feb 10, 2026

fl0w3n said:
I hate the ****ing wiring rats nest on this thing, but I know if I start touching it now that will snowball into a major rewire project.

Plan is to just get it running and going again and then build a separate new engine harness for it on the side so one day it’s just a plug and play affair. Hopefully.

What are your current wiring pains?

I'm geared up and about to basically just rebuild the entire harness, for peace of mind. I could easily build one (or part of one) for you. I had to buy enough for 10 harnesses, just to get the parts to do 1, you know? I'm gonna convert some of the connectors that you can't get pins for anymore to solid pin Deutsch connectors (or weather-pack). But, I also have a ton of new OEM connectors, that I could put on your new harness. Let me know.

The only thing that I know that I don't have, are the EV1 injector pigtails, but if you'll buy them, I'll put them on an injector harness for you.

EDIT: I finally found a source for the female pins at the ECU!

12146448-L | Delphi Micro-Pack 100 Female Terminal for 18-16 AWG

12146448-L Delphi Micro-Pack 100 female terminals in stock. Orders placed before 2pm PT ship same day. Free U.S. shipping on orders $125 or more.

www.customconnectorkits.com

Edit 2: oh wow I found the actual plugs at the end of the engine harness also, that the metri-pack pins go in. I’ve been looking at a ton of different options for bulkhead connectors, and now I’m thinking about it and it would be really easy to produce these in batches, or even made to order, for people with Renix jeeps who want to wheel them, as this would be a big upgrade over the old connectors…. Anyway let me know anything you need wiring wise, I’ll trade you for that AW4 harness.
If you need any one-off connectors and don’t want to buy the whole kit, lmk and I’ll just drop it in the mail, I don’t get down to Gilroy hardly at all anymore.

fl0w3n · Feb 22, 2026

Continuing with the couple minutes here and there program, with a couple hours sometimes during weekend nap times.

Glad I got it in the garage, just makes that program easier - dipped for 5 minutes the other day just to cut and push on a hose, then came back in before the wife even yelled at me as the kids treated her as a jungle gym :dustin:

Bracket for the PS cooler done just needs paint.

I haven’t drank since December so I can’t even blame the holes for the clamps on drinking. Don’t know wtf happened there. I used some 3m extreme double sided taped and cut up heater hose to make rubber isolators for the clamp.

I plan to run the bottom as inlet and top as outlet, logic is air should rise and hopefully flow right into the reservoir which should take care of it. But not sure it really matters.

Filter is mounted, everything nearly plumbed. Still need to go back and crimp the low pressure clamps and tighten all fittings etc. then get some abrasion wrap for a couple sections and better zip ties or clamps

I’ll do something with the wiring that’s in the way later, doing something now before I finish will just distract me

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