Bible iBooster Electric Brake Booster

I've been curious on this ever since I seen it done on a 1 ton swapped Sequoia.

They have CAN wires, which intrigue me
 
Eddie315 said:
2.75:1. There is more info on my swap on post #433 and #437 on this thread. The ratio is perfect for me.
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So you went from a 7:1 manual brake set up to a 2.75:1 set up? On the same Master cylinder? That's way less mechanical advantage but became better? My brain is trying to comprehend. More leverage should mean more pressure?
 
Winchested said:
I'm not convinced til its a street driven rig on 40s that pulls a 3500 lb trailer to the trail...
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The guy doesn't pull a trailer, but him and his buddy in the SAS Lexus drive tf out of their rigs to and from places to wheel.

So I can't rule one out yet.
 
Now I would like to see a Cybertruck ibooster next to a car ibooster. They look a bit different. The cybertruck weighs 6600+lbs fits our use better.
 
Winchested said:
So you went from a 7:1 manual brake set up to a 2.75:1 set up? On the same Master cylinder? That's way less mechanical advantage but became better? My brain is trying to comprehend. More leverage should mean more pressure?
Click to expand...
No. I had the 7:1 pedal on the iBooster. I switched to a 2.75:1 pedal with the same iBooster and master. The 7:1 was far too much leverage and there was almost zero resistance or feedback. The 2.75 setup feels like a normal car brake pedal.
 
Gumbybronco said:
Now I would like to see a Cybertruck ibooster next to a car ibooster. They look a bit different. The cybertruck weighs 6600+lbs fits our use better.
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Price... Oofff!

1000011523.jpg
 
I used the master from that $430 style one. I paid $180 for just the master. There are a bunch of complete setups on eBay for under $500. My local junkyard sells the complete setup from a Honda Accord for $150.
 
I dont know if its been mentioned already but there is something about the Honda CR-V ibooster that makes it not suitable for swapping into other vehicles. I just completed my Ibooster swap in my tacoma with a CRV booster. At about half the pedal travel the Ibooster seems to hit a wall where it wont depress any further and the pedal will vibrate. I found other people discussing the issue here; Trouble with Gen1 Ibooster in swap I ordered another ibooster from a tesla model x. Hopefully that will sovle the problem. Heres a few pics of the install with the crv booster.
 

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Rockbaron1 said:
I dont know if its been mentioned already but there is something about the Honda CR-V ibooster that makes it not suitable for swapping into other vehicles. I just completed my Ibooster swap in my tacoma with a CRV booster. At about half the pedal travel the Ibooster seems to hit a wall where it wont depress any further and the pedal will vibrate. I found other people discussing the issue here; Trouble with Gen1 Ibooster in swap I ordered another ibooster from a tesla model x. Hopefully that will sovle the problem. Heres a few pics of the install with the crv booster.
Click to expand...

Which master cylinder are you using on your conversion & did you get the Gen2 installed yet ?

Thanks !
 
JNHEscher said:
Correctamundo. Gen 2. Bolted right in. Only thing I needed was a thread adapter for the pushrod. McMaster had that and it was the exact length needed, so basically a direct fit as well.
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How is this working out for you ?

I'm assuming that this is the master on your scooby ?

2001 Subaru Outback Master Cylinder.jpg

working on piecing a system together as most of the Gen2 i see on fleabay (for a sensible price) are sans master cylinder, and this is the calc's I get for it...

Buggy - Outback Master.jpg Axle Caliper Volume.jpg Outback MS volume.jpg

So, from what I'm figuring out the Yota master will move enough fluid to engage the pads no problem & there is plenty of PSI for good performance... open to thoughts & comments !

Thanks...
 
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Landy_Andy said:
How is this working out for you ?

I'm assuming that this is the master on your scooby ?

2001 Subaru Outback Master Cylinder.jpg

working on piecing a system together as most of the Gen2 i see on fleabay (for a sensible price) are sans master cylinder, and this is the calc's I get for it...

Buggy - Outback Master.jpg Axle Caliper Volume.jpg Outback MS volume.jpg

So, from what I'm figuring out the Yota master will move enough fluid to engage the pads no problem & there is plenty of PSI for good performance... open to thoughts & comments !

Thanks...
Click to expand...
I used the stock lower resi and master on mine. Haven't wired it up yet, but hoping to soon.
 
Hopefully this isn't too dumb of a question but what makes this better than running an electric vacuum pump on a normal booster? Wouldn't that give a steady and even pressure no matter what rpm the engine is at or even if its off?
 
JNHEscher said:
In my build thread somewhere. I haven't really been able to work on my car much in months. Too much other stuff to get done.
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Found the pics... thought you'd used the origional master cylinder rather than the Honda one.... it has a bit larger bore, guess it didn't fit ?
 
350TacoZilla said:
Hopefully this isn't too dumb of a question but what makes this better than running an electric vacuum pump on a normal booster? Wouldn't that give a steady and even pressure no matter what rpm the engine is at or even if its off?
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Not dumb. Just less stuff.
 
Landy_Andy said:
Found the pics... thought you'd used the origional master cylinder rather than the Honda one.... it has a bit larger bore, guess it didn't fit ?
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I was answering too quickly last night.

I used the stock Honda lower resi and master. Subaru master doesn't boot up to the booster. Minimal bore difference - subie is 1/16" larger than the Honda master, so I stuck with the Honda parts to keep the swap easy.
 
JNHEscher said:
I was answering too quickly last night.

I used the stock Honda lower resi and master. Subaru master doesn't boot up to the booster. Minimal bore difference - subie is 1/16" larger than the Honda master, so I stuck with the Honda parts to keep the swap easy.
Click to expand...

Good to know, am trying to get a handle on what size master to use on my buggy build, I have F250 rear calipers all round. When I run the volume calc's for the Honda master it only has to move 0.12" to move the caliper pistons on an axle 0.1" onto the disc.... so, it should be more than enough volume to work as I read the booster/master has ~1.5" stroke.
 
Ghetto Fab. said:
The gmt900 master idea doesn't seem to work. It does bolt up really nice, but its too short. The pushrod would need to be lengthened about 3/8" to make this work. Tried with a 2014-2018 silverado 1500 MC. The 1.5 bore 2500 MCs look the same as the one I got as far as what sticks into the booster.
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Odd... I found the guy's page & he was asked that question, said it had 0.04" clearance but he was using a 2000 Tesla Model Y booster.... wondering if that would make a difference, I thought they were the same in that regards ?
 
Landy_Andy said:
Which master cylinder are you using on your conversion & did you get the Gen2 installed yet ?

Thanks !
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I used a master cylinder from a Toyota sequoia. It has a 24mm (just over 15/16”) bore. I spent a while just looking at pictures and specs for master cylinders on rockauto. I wanted that bore size, the mounting holes looked like they were close, the resi looked like it would fit, and I thought it would be easy to adapt the m12 inverted flair brake line on the master to my m10 inverted flair, that part turned out to be not so easy though. As far as I can tell no one makes an inverted flair m10 to m12 adapter, I had to make one on the lathe.

Also I didn’t switch to a gen 2 ibooster, just bought another gen one from a different car (Tesla model X instead of Honda Crv) swapped it on and everything works now.
 
Rockbaron1 said:
I used a master cylinder from a Toyota sequoia. It has a 24mm (just over 15/16”) bore. I spent a while just looking at pictures and specs for master cylinders on rockauto. I wanted that bore size, the mounting holes looked like they were close, the resi looked like it would fit, and I thought it would be easy to adapt the m12 inverted flair brake line on the master to my m10 inverted flair, that part turned out to be not so easy though. As far as I can tell no one makes an inverted flair m10 to m12 adapter, I had to make one on the lathe.

Also I didn’t switch to a gen 2 ibooster, just bought another gen one from a different car (Tesla model X instead of Honda Crv) swapped it on and everything works now.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that update, am on the fence with this option.... spent quite a while today going through all the Dorman master on Amazon after watching the BKOR video on their 10" pedal. If I use one off a 99-04 Mustang it's got a 1" bore & M10x1 ports, ideal for using banjo's. With a 10.8:1 pedal ratio I can make 900psi at 70lbs & 1300psi at ~100lbs applied force with a 12:1 hydraulic advantage. I really like the simplicity and cost of this.... and I can get a replacement next day at the local parts store if I need it.
 
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