Blue MJ

fl0w3n said:
I didn't do anything special when I mounted these tires, and the rims are dented up and the front driver started leaking on the trail. I was worried about popping a bead but I guess with how they were not deflecting that probably would be a fine pressure.
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If they blow off at 8, you're doing something wrong.
 
fl0w3n said:
Yeah that’s the thing, this MJ must be way lighter than the XJ.

That’s about 13-15 psi, which doesn’t look like much. Those 40” pats it came with, same thing with not much deflection on the only other time I’ve taken it out.
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12-13, that is what I run in my 7,600 lb crew cab Ram 2500 with 37” Pats when off road. :flipoff2:

I’m sure you can go lower.
 
I can’t decide how to button up the interior.

Some Amazon sound deadening and rock auto carpet? Vinyl? Boat foam?

Would boat foam on top of sound deadening work or does that sound like it’ll come apart after time.

I do plan to keep heat and AC, it currently kinda functions and I think just needs to be recharged and a little TLC. I put new door seals in, but the tops don’t seal great because the doors a little tweaked.

I like the idea of carpet to finish it out, but I feel like that’s going to be a dumb idea the first time I go through Fordyce water crossing.
 
Carpet. Leave the windows down after the water crossings, and pull it when you get home. unless you're on Fordyce more than 2x per year, it's not too much work for an otherwise really nice interior.

Bonus while it's out you can shampoo it to get all the dust out.
 
Opiebennett said:
Carpet. Leave the windows down after the water crossings, and pull it when you get home. unless you're on Fordyce more than 2x per year, it's not too much work for an otherwise really nice interior.

Bonus while it's out you can shampoo it to get all the dust out
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Good point, another example of me getting caught up in something that has little impact to the big picture.

Black or grey :confused:
 
Why not just do truck Ed liner inside the cab on the floors? If you're only doing Fordyce in summer you could do carver, but same that sounds like a lot of work for a rock crawler you can drive on the street.
 
I'd vote for something like Lizardskin on the floors. Insulates from heat and sound which will help with AC and tunes.

Carpet just seems like it would smell like a sack of buttholes in short order and hold a ton of dust.
 
RunningProblem said:
Why not just do truck Ed liner inside the cab on the floors? If you're only doing Fordyce in summer you could do carver, but same that sounds like a lot of work for a rock crawler you can drive on the street.
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gt1guy said:
I'd vote for something like Lizardskin on the floors. Insulates from heat and sound which will help with AC and tunes.

Carpet just seems like it would smell like a sack of buttholes in short order and hold a ton of dust.
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I see mixed reviews on the bed liner / lizard skin route, some say it doesn’t cut heat and sound enough and others say it does.

One of the positives for carpet would be I can be a little lazier on patching up the floor, since it’ll get covered by layers.
If I did do lizard skin, I’d need to make a bit of a cleaner job patching everything up lol
 
Patch it up so you don't have water comin into the cab messing with wiring, or soaking into the pad.

After that, put down some mass loaded vinyl over butyl and heat barrier if you really want it quieter. It won't be silent, but it will block a fair amount of road noise.
 
I sprayed on Lizard Skin and then a plastic floor from RockAuto in the TJ. Didn’t get to do before and after, so can’t say for sure it made a difference. Driving it, the wind noise even with the hard top was much greater than what was perceived from the floor.

For trail use, I didn’t want to put in carpet that will get wet and dirty. No experience with dynomat style products and how they hold up to being wet .

I do have the spray gun for the Lizard Skin if you want to borrow it.
 
RunningProblem said:
Patch it up so you don't have water comin into the cab messing with wiring, or soaking into the pad.

After that, put down some mass loaded vinyl over butyl and heat barrier if you really want it quieter. It won't be silent, but it will block a fair amount of road noise.
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I’m still going over the plan in my head. I’m thinking about how I want to seal up some of the holes I cut, I might go with some thick rubber and make a flange to bolt it down. Sounds kinda easy in my head to contour to the weird shapes.

Alternatively I could try and make patch panels, but I doubt I can make something clean with the awkward shapes I need to cover up.

I could also build a raised console that runs front to back to just go over everything, but the shifters being at a funky angle also make that sound like it’s going to be difficult to look good.

I’m leaning towards the rubber
Hooligan said:
I sprayed on Lizard Skin and then a plastic floor from RockAuto in the TJ. Didn’t get to do before and after, so can’t say for sure it made a difference. Driving it, the wind noise even with the hard top was much greater than what was perceived from the floor.

For trail use, I didn’t want to put in carpet that will get wet and dirty. No experience with dynomat style products and how they hold up to being wet .

I do have the spray gun for the Lizard Skin if you want to borrow it.
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I think some of my loud noise comes from the fact the transmission is touching the tunnel, so the body is basically acting like a sound sync and reverberating. I’m hoping sound mat would help with that. And / or when I redo the front and to 3 link I will see if I can drop the trans to get myself just a little bit of clearance.

I’ll have to read up about it again. Thanks for the offer. Forgot it’s a special application gun.
 
I made patch panels to cover where I cut for my doubler.
Edit: as FordFascist told me…”it’s a rock crawler not a fully restored 1932 Ford”, or something along those lines.
 
This is what you're dealing with for holes?

img_6897-jpeg.jpg



Get yourself a hammer and a shot bag, some sheet metal and beat out oversized cover pieces. Tack, weld or rivet them in place and hit them with seam sealer.
Where the trans is touching, get a pry bar and make it not touching.

My TC cables run through the tub like yours do. I bought a grommet seal from Seals-It to run the three cables through.

5 1/4″ Grommet Seal | Seals-It

GS101NHBL-Photoroom.png


I actually bought two so I could put one on each side of the floor and rivet them together sandwiching the floor.
 
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gt1guy said:
This is what you're dealing with for holes?
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Yes, particularly the slot where the tcase brace pokes through and there’s another section on the driver side by the floor.
gt1guy said:
Get yourself a hammer and a shot bag, some sheet metal and beat out oversized cover pieces. Tack, weld or rivet them in place and hit them with seam sealer.
Where the trans is touching, get a pry bar and make it not touching.
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Hadn’t thought of that. That’s a good idea with the shot bag.
gt1guy said:
My TC cables run through the tub like yours do. I bought a grommet seal from Seals-It to run the three cables through.

5 1/4″ Grommet Seal | Seals-It
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That’s exactly what I was picturing, thanks for the link.
 
Speaking of sound deadening… finally got around to doing my DD truck.

Couple other truck projects and house to finish up before jumping back to the MJ

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YotaAtieToo said:
How much difference did that make in the superduty?
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Not sure yet actually, haven't finished the driver door. Wife just had a baby so I've been at home, putting in some garage time between diaper changes and holding baby lol. Once I get back to work and do some commute miles on it I'll be able to tell.

Between the diesel, the uneven wear on the Falkens I've never been able to get on top of, the bent passenger door from smushing a rock, and being an XLT trim it was loud as **** inside. My dad's 22 Lariat 7.3 sounds like a Mercedes inside comparatively. I'm not sure if the Lariat's have more NVH work done to them or not.

I think I need to replace all my door seals, but that's like $400+ in seals. When I bent the passenger door, I tried that surgical tube trick and wound up ripping the seal so I threw a new body side seal on the passenger door and it actually made a difference.
 
Still not working on the jeep, disappointed in myself. My shelves are overflowing with parts I’ve collected for it. I’m better at spending money than actually building this thing I guess.

Took a small day trip to cruise an access road near us with the family. Taking advantage before I go back to work on Monday.

The sound deadening helped, but these tires are so ****ing loud because I let them cup so bad.

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Dog was stoked she was still invited even though she’s barely got any room now with two car seats to share the back with.
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Holding a flexible ruler over the inside lugs of a back tire. Massive gap between every other lug.
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YotaAtieToo said:
Do a burn out?
:flipoff2:
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lol, I actually did try that about 10k miles back. It kinda worked but it also looked like it was just going to chunk the tires bad.

Depending on which jacked up treads you measure I have anywhere from 9/32 to 14/32 left. I figure by the time I correct, if I even can correct it, these tires will be done anyways.

Falken said they might offer a courtesy 25% discount towards new set, but I kinda want to try some Nittos in 38x13.5r17 if I can swing the high price.
 
fl0w3n said:
lol, I actually did try that about 10k miles back. It kinda worked but it also looked like it was just going to chunk the tires bad.

Depending on which jacked up treads you measure I have anywhere from 9/32 to 14/32 left. I figure by the time I correct, if I even can correct it, these tires will be done anyways.

Falken said they might offer a courtesy 25% discount towards new set, but I kinda want to try some Nittos in 38x13.5r17 if I can swing the high price.
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Why such huge tires on the tow rig? :laughing:

Honestly the one big tire that seems to be the king for diesels is the toyo MT. I know people who have gotten more miles from them than an at.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Why such huge tires on the tow rig? :laughing:

Honestly the one big tire that seems to be the king for diesels is the toyo MT. I know people who have gotten more miles from them than an at.
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Form over function :flipoff2:

The 37s don’t quite fill the wheel well as proportionally as my 2015 did. It annoys me. I also sometimes am not a fan of the wheel choice I went with. Tried to break the faux bead lock dish look that’s everywhere, but honestly it might have looked better if I just followed the band wagon :homer:

I have 46k miles on these right now, and if I put up with the uneven wear I can probably get another 10k out of them. Not too shabby.
I’d consider Toyo, I’ve liked them in the past on other trucks, but my local mom and pop shop isn’t a Toyo dealer and the dumb corporate shops won’t order a tire that doesn’t match their system, like a Toyo I’d want.
 
A 2021 Ford needs extra sound deadening? Damn. I wanted to do some of the heat insulation up there for summer and winter. I did the MLV over the floors and it really seems to make a difference and it seems to ride quieter than my wife's 2017 Highlander.

Tell me more about door seals. My drive side door has always made noise but I can't feel air coming in.
 
RunningProblem said:
A 2021 Ford needs extra sound deadening? Damn. I wanted to do some of the heat insulation up there for summer and winter. I did the MLV over the floors and it really seems to make a difference and it seems to ride quieter than my wife's 2017 Highlander.

Tell me more about door seals. My drive side door has always made noise but I can't feel air coming in.
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It probably shouldn’t, but then again most any car could benefit from going above and beyond factory’s bare minimum especially when it comes to car audio.

Some of my door seals have some little rips on them. I’ve got 126k miles so yeah it’s new year wise but she’s got some wear and tear on her. The seals can dry out, the first 25k miles my truck was in some harsh ass environments building the border wall. Every time I get into a new interior body panel I find more sand and dust.

There’s people that have managed to thread surgical tubing through the door seal, which makes it a little stiffer and seal better, but I wasn’t able to do it or I don’t have the patience to make it happen.
 
I have almost 3 times the mileage on my stock door seals. Due to your post I ordered new ones and comments say they require using more force to shut the door.


I think you'd like the heat reflection in the roof for summer. Might only make a 10 degree difference but that matters when it's 100.
 
got some stuff done by doing minutes at a time for the past couple weeks. Working towards finishing the shifter install so I can button up interior. In hindsight I wish I would have made solid link shifters.


Hard to see but the shift rails are right there and looks like plenty of clearance to sneak by the front driveshaft. Oh well, what’s in there now works.
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Made link for the ecobox
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Tight but clearanced, wish I had planned ahead and hadn’t put the foot there.
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Also started to figure out what was wrong with the winch. Guess I’m not surprised, there was some jank stuff one of the POs did. This just pulled out.
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Oh… that’s probably it :emb:
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Looks 100x better without that dated bumper
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I'll be taking off several weeks of work at the end of the year, so I want to do a complete refresh of this thing to be ready for next year.

I have complete cooling system, everything but the fan blades, to update to the newer style cooling. Also new plugs, wires, injectors, rotor, H.O. exhaust and I might finish the engine harness from the white jeep and swap that in so I know the 36 year old wiring is good.

For suspension, I have a barnes 3 link for the front, and out back some deavers from a ranger I'll run spring under. I'll redo the steering while I'm in there.

I have most of the parts for a 609, and I have a ready to go 70u, but I can't decide - keeping the 44/9" and just throwing some new locking hubs, ball joints, and an inner seal at the 44 and 9" would get a truss. This is the easiest and less likely to push this project past my available time off. For Rubicon and Shaver Lake trails, the 44/9" should be fine enough if I'm not stupid on it. I'll likely sell this in a year or two for something that can fit kids, and I'd rather save the beef axles for that. If/when I sell it, I doubt I'd recoup the axle money if I swapped in the nice stuff so...

Still need shocks, a PS pump, some interior stuff, and bunch of other little things I'm sure.
 
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