Build Tacoma 4500 build

gt1guy said:
Did you run another bead over all these tacks?

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If not you absolutely should. That string of tacks doesn't have any real penetration. Quick zaps with the MIG are very cold and have little to no penetration. The center of may have some, but the perimeter will have none.

If you were to cut that joint open and etch it, it would look like this. The red dots are where you would have a little penetration. Between the dots you'd have none.

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I'd crank up the machine and run a proper weld right over the top of that. Or you can hit it with a flap wheel and re-weld it. Or clean it up and TIG it. Point being, you need to add more weld to that.

Lots of things wouldn't matter, but a suspension link isn't one of them.
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That’s not a string of tacs. It took 2-3 starts and stops to rotate the tube but those are continuous welds. I beveled the tube and the bung had a bevel and I did a hot weld all the way around
 
gt1guy said:
Well, **** I guess you were just whipping the gun in big jumps.

My apologies if that is a continuous weld. Sure looked like a bunch of spot welds strung together.
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Big cursive “e” going over the bevel and back onto itself. I don’t do multiple tacks on anything for complete welds besides maybe sheet metal. But even then I keep some .023 wire around to make that easier.
 
his point remains valid though, the big whips allow the centers to cool and make the joint weak. this portion of the weld in the center of the picture has very little weld attached the link material. it almost looks like the is a gap to between the welds and you dont have any weld on the link material.

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Worked on the fuel cell some. Upgraded to a -16 breather/rollover and new -6 bulkheads for the feed and return. 2.5” od clear hose for the fill. First time ever tig welding aluminum and not upset with the results. It’s fat and ugly but I don’t think it’s going anywhere.
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McNeil finished my dash so ran down to socal Wednesday night and came back Thursday. Stopped at prp on the way back and grabbed a y strap for the spare and limit straps and then stopped at kartek. Never been to kartek and that place has everything. Picked up a bunch of parts from them as well to include the batteries

Big thanks to McNeil for helping me out with a discount on the dash and also to morrflate for helping get me setup with onboard air with one of the compressors. Fragola also helped me out with a discount so I placed a big order to plumb the car. Should have everything minus the brake lines I think.
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More stuff. Limit strap tabs welded. Used the rear third to test fit the axle shafts and welded the cs on. Finished the wing/upper radiator mount. Put some tube connectors on the lower radiator tube to be able to get the fuel cell out. Front bumper is welded and done. And made the upper links.
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My dad’s working on the front third member. It’s a gear works high pinion 10in. Motive gears. Competition arb and all the gearworks stuff to go with it. Pinion Preload is at 22inch lbs (gearworks told us around 25 and Yukon calls for 13-15. It’s a solid spacer and no shims with the gearworks kit as you just sand down the spacer)

Having a hard time with the pattern. He’s double checked everything is tight and correct but seems the sweet spot for shims is going to be .070-.075 which seems like a lot. The rear took .025 but it’s a low pinion 9in.

He’s tried combinations from .005 to .085 and the pattern didn’t start moving really till .045. At .085 the pattern seems high but better.

Our main concern Is if .070-.075 to many shims? As that seems like where it’ll end up

Shim size is on each picture. I have pictures of more combinations but seem these are most relevant.



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Got the car turned around and body off. My dad’s been working on the floor pans under the seats while I worked on the exhaust. Redid the passenger motor mount for the 2nd time and made it straight again to clear the header. Not bad for my first time doing stainless. Super happy with the tube work on the car
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Everything about that is awesome man. I have this weird attraction to the idea of a full race chassis and suspension with a stock motor\trans and cab\interior for some reason. I know there are high dollar pre-runners out there but even they usually have a ton done to the motor\interior, I'm talking like bone stock dependable motor\trans\transfer and just all custom chassis and suspension\axles. I know thats not what you have going on here but with the steel cab down over the chassis it gives me that look a bit.
 
350TacoZilla said:
Everything about that is awesome man. I have this weird attraction to the idea of a full race chassis and suspension with a stock motor\trans and cab\interior for some reason. I know there are high dollar pre-runners out there but even they usually have a ton done to the motor\interior, I'm talking like bone stock dependable motor\trans\transfer and just all custom chassis and suspension\axles. I know thats not what you have going on here but with the steel cab down over the chassis it gives me that look a bit.
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I really wanted to stick with a full body rig to keep within the class spirit. After looking at other cars in the class, mine kind of snow balled and it’s turned into what I always wanted to build for a rig. I have every intention of racing it and hopefully a lot but if for some reason I don’t, it wouldn’t be hard to put a windshield back in, quieter exhaust and have a super cool trail rig.
 
Blase said:
looks great!!!! is the cab still gonna fit with the door bars kicked out like that?
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Thanks. I’ll have to trim the inner doors some but I was going to cut out the inner door and remove the window to make them lighter and use the inside for storage.
 
Only a half ish day before my dad left. He got the motor put together and I got most the passenger side exhaust figured out. Just need to add another v band, grind the one joint and figure out the dump. He took a bunch of the panels to paint and clean up along with the dash to fiberglass it all back together.
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To the point I need to think about driveshafts. Front needs a carrier bearing and all the kits are extremely pricey and use 3” tubing. Was hoping to use something smaller as space is tight with the exhaust/tube work. What’s the smallest you’d use for a carrier bearing section, front shaft and rear shaft that’ll see speed? I’ll more than likely need cvs on the front and rear shafts and was hoping to build them myself and have them balanced by a local shop.

And any recommendations for custom rear full float 35 spline axle shafts that won’t break the bank?
 
Malburg114 said:
To the point I need to think about driveshafts. Front needs a carrier bearing and all the kits are extremely pricey and use 3” tubing. Was hoping to use something smaller as space is tight with the exhaust/tube work. What’s the smallest you’d use for a carrier bearing section, front shaft and rear shaft that’ll see speed? I’ll more than likely need cvs on the front and rear shafts and was hoping to build them myself and have them balanced by a local shop.

And any recommendations for custom rear full float 35 spline axle shafts that won’t break the bank?
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I'm using stock front superduty driveshafts. 1350 CV with flange mount. I also built my own carrier bearing using the output shaft from the same superduty transfercase. That way i can use the stock output flange for ease and cost. Took the shaft and machined it down to take a 1.25" Stainless pillow block bearing.
 

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My all 1410 2.25x.120 shafts and 2x.120 midship survived but any more rock rash than they received would’ve had me turning wrenches in a canyon. All Northern drivetrain custom yokes. Midship was 14B pinion and superduty slip. 1410

New shafts are 2.5x.250 DOM with Neapco N3-40-2512 splines and all spicer yokes again from northern drivetrain. Midship is the 3” BKOR kit. No CVs. All single joints, 28” long. CVS etc are just a great way to spend more money.

Unless your “local” driveline shop builds shafts for ultra4 vehicles without having to explain what the application is for, don’t F’n bother. I’ve dealt with shops across 3 different states and each one of them is a ****sucker when you deliver “off-road” application driveshaft components. Either purchase ready to run from Reel etc or do it yourself 100%

Phase ‘em and don’t be a ****** while welding them. As long as it runs straighter than home depot lumber it will survive hammers because it won’t be straight after the race anyways.
 
broken4_racing said:
I'm using stock front superduty driveshafts. 1350 CV with flange mount. I also built my own carrier bearing using the output shaft from the same superduty transfercase. That way i can use the stock output flange for ease and cost. Took the shaft and machined it down to take a 1.25" Stainless pillow block bearing.
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What pillow block did you use? I’m also using 1350 stuff and the carrier is what is holding me up.
 
WiscoF100 said:
My all 1410 2.25x.120 shafts and 2x.120 midship survived but any more rock rash than they received would’ve had me turning wrenches in a canyon. All Northern drivetrain custom yokes. Midship was 14B pinion and superduty slip. 1410

New shafts are 2.5x.250 DOM with Neapco N3-40-2512 splines and all spicer yokes again from northern drivetrain. Midship is the 3” BKOR kit. No CVs. All single joints, 28” long. CVS etc are just a great way to spend more money.

Unless your “local” driveline shop builds shafts for ultra4 vehicles without having to explain what the application is for, don’t F’n bother. I’ve dealt with shops across 3 different states and each one of them is a ****sucker when you deliver “off-road” application driveshaft components. Either purchase ready to run from Reel etc or do it yourself 100%

Phase ‘em and don’t be a ****** while welding them. As long as it runs straighter than home depot lumber it will survive hammers because it won’t be straight after the race anyways.
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Everyone local to me can’t make driveshafts for offroad stuff. If I pay to have them done I’ll go to driveline tech in St. George. He’s done me extremely well but that’s depending on prices and time.

Finding a carrier for me to use is the hardest part vs just buying one. I was thinking of using 2.5x.188 or .250 wall for the actual shafts and the mid ship be 2.5x.120 or so. Maybe 2”x.120 for the front shaft. Not sure I can run single joints just cause of how I have the diffe pointed to minimize plunge.

I’ll make a parts list and see if I can piece something together. May just have to buy a carrier and machine it to accept smaller tubing.
 
A lathe makes anything possible. Don’t worry about finding parts at oreillys if you break. Your driveshafts are custom to you only. spare is a spare so make an extra from whatever your imagination comes up with!

Search pillow blocks, copy pasta. Make your own within whatever parameters you determine. You got this. There are no rules. The only reason I would ever purchase another commercially made driveline would be for my late model daily drivers.
 
so here is a part i sourced off the net and then we machined it down to fit 2 inch .25 wall tubing and light press fit in. and i am sure any machine shop will turn down parts to fit. and you assemble at the house.

and this yoke also

Amazon.com: Driveshaft Weld Yoke3-28-777 Tube Yoke 1350 Series Fits 2" x 0.12" Welded Tube Wall, Compatible with 5-1350X U-Joint : Automotive

Buy Driveshaft Weld Yoke3-28-777 Tube Yoke 1350 Series Fits 2" x 0.12" Welded Tube Wall, Compatible with 5-1350X U-Joint: Yokes - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com


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Probably order the busted knuckle carrier as pillow blocks with the shaft come very close to cost of theirs.

I’m thinking 2.5x.25 for all the shafts. .25 wall for the mid ship is overkill but everything would use the same parts and allow spares easy to be made and mean only buying one stick of tubing. Maybe use 2x.120 or 2x.25 for the front shaft if clearance is an issue but I have a bunch of that left over.

I have to figure out if I need CV’s or not. I’m guessing the rear will need a cv with a low pinion and travel and I already got the rear output with a cv flange. Front would be nice if I can do just single u joints with the high pinion.

Dennys driveshaft carries pretty much everything I would need and for a decent price with a little machining on my end and all spicer parts. I do like that slip that chaplinfj60 linked. And it’s about 50 bucks cheaper than the slip yoke on dennys but need to see what weld yokes cost.

My biggest issue will be machining the yokes. I don’t have a good way to hold them in the lathe unless they have a center bore I could press a tube into. Then tac it and then spin in the lathe to machine down to the right Id. Or I could do them on the mill but that’s a lot more setup time.

We are about to head to trail hero but may make them myself and drop them off at driveline tech to get them balanced.
 
Malburg114 said:
Dennys driveshaft carries pretty much everything I would need and for a decent price with a little machining on my end and all spicer parts. I do like that slip that chaplinfj60 linked. And it’s about 50 bucks cheaper than the slip yoke on dennys but need to see what weld yokes cost.

My biggest issue will be machining the yokes. I don’t have a good way to hold them in the lathe unless they have a center bore I could press a tube into. Then tac it and then spin in the lathe to machine down to the right Id. Or I could do them on the mill but that’s a lot more setup time.
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so machining the yokes is a challenge so i look at the weld yoks and machine the tube instead. it takes a bit of searching on thier site but they give you alot of info.

i have also had a slip yoke machined down because the lathe can clamp down on it.
they also have a thing called increase bushing,
Increasing Bushings

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