1978 F-fun hundred 3/4 tons and 37s

I have to control myself on this one. Honestly want to experience what this engine is capable of in stock trim compared against the 351M and whatever I build the 460 into.

These manifolds hug the block so close it may not be an issue. Won’t know until I swing it into place.

Maybe just some flat tops or a cam or a market place intake or…….
 
That would be interesting to see/hear about.

I had one of a 460 variety that ran damn good in a dentside long time ago. It had a performer intake but was otherwise stock with efi timing chain.
 
What is unique about the EFI chain?

Summit has a sail right meow so I’ll grab the parts I mentioned
 
Ok, some searching agrees that it’s just a “parts counter” work around to ensure you’re getting a straight up double roller.

Pan ordered with ARP shaft. I’ll buy a pump with a different order.
 
Ah I see. Looks the same as the late model 460 truck pan. probably is the same stamping.

There are 2 different oil pump bodies. Rear sump pickup has a flange, 84 'D' type.
 
Yes, that’s important to note as there are 3 different pickup styles for the 385 engines.

This was a dumb idea. 429 doesn’t really satisfy my ego when it’s looking like this has to visit the machine shop and I have a 460 crank sitting on the shelf. Why stop at 460? Why not 500+ ci? Why not set all my money on fire? 429 is better on mpgs? higher revving? 🤣

It’s cleanerish anyways. Maybe it’ll go back on marketplace?
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Wow there’s nothing to a car pan. I’d use it in the Ultra4 if it weren’t for needing more capacity
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Smashed up oil pan
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905 lbs
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WiscoF100 said:
This was a dumb idea. 429 doesn’t really satisfy my ego when it’s looking like this has to visit the machine shop and I have a 460 crank sitting on the shelf. Why stop at 460? Why not 500+ ci? Why not set all my money on fire? 429 is better on mpgs? higher revving? 🤣
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I can relate to that. When I had to rebuild my 460 it was out of necessity, not because I simply wanted to build a motor. What I wanted to do was to get a second and build some big fire breathing 500+ cubic inch monster. Instead I built a 466 :laughing: but I was trying to be honest with myself- it's not a racecar, and it's not a mud bogger. A smaller engine would be easier to drive, easier on the vehicle and easier on the wallet. After driving it for a couple years, im glad I stayed small. Sure, saying I have 9+ liters under the hood would be cool, but I think I'd have crossed that threshold where it would actually be a bear to drive, and end up less fun as a result.
 
I agree with all of that. Gotta check my ego. I’m disappointed that something is letting loose in the 351M. Rather invest in something I’ve never played with before. Cleveland’s are cool but BBFs gotta be cooler.

Save big cubes for a tubed-out McQueen fiberglass prerunner that I’ve got parked in my daydream garage.

Gotta spare some time and money for the 331 and finish the actual racecar sitting on jack stands…..

Some cool points to mention. Starter and water necks are shared between engines. Dizzy as well which I had already planned out when I bought the complete fuel injection system.
 
I too wanted to build a high power big block, well because, how could I not? But then there is reality, actual use, money. Adulthood, ****.

The next step beyond an iron head 460 is a big jump, +50% in cost for another 100 hp. Softer bottom end for the higher HP up top. Fine, a stroker to fix that, now I'm at 200% the cost. But a 'normal' trans build, TQ isn't enough, so add more money. And are the joints and stock axle shafts going to live? More money... So I went budget and a used $500 nitrous system to get to the magic 500 hp mark.

But that 6R80 six speed, now that was worth every penny. Combined with 'only' 425hp/525tq is enough for the street, trails, and wicked burnouts. Regear? nope, don't need those even for 40s. Oh and the huge improvement in MPGs, 5 to 7!
 
WiscoF100 said:
Yes, that’s important to note as there are 3 different pickup styles for the 385 engines.

This was a dumb idea. 429 doesn’t really satisfy my ego when it’s looking like this has to visit the machine shop and I have a 460 crank sitting on the shelf. Why stop at 460? Why not 500+ ci? Why not set all my money on fire? 429 is better on mpgs? higher revving? 🤣

It’s cleanerish anyways. Maybe it’ll go back on marketplace?
IMG_2883.jpeg
IMG_2885.jpeg

Wow there’s nothing to a car pan. I’d use it in the Ultra4 if it weren’t for needing more capacity
IMG_2884.jpeg

Smashed up oil pan
IMG_2886.jpeg

905 lbs
IMG_2878.jpeg
Click to expand...
905

Gotta be worth $5k just to shave a couple hundred pounds :flipoff2:
 
Nose sits just a touch high, all this 52 yo iron should level out the truck :smokin:

Accessories are gonna turn out ***s. Both WP grooves utilized. Massive crank pulley should excite alternator immediately and improve idle flow of the PS pump. Have to power brake currently to maneuver the mall.
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Better than some I’ve opened up over the years
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Look how cute that 302 intake is
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Lots of ideas coming together
 
Provience without billet wheels, gray hair and a club jacket. I didn’t stand a chance. 🤣

Wasn’t my crowd. Also don’t like waiting. I have things to do.

Otherwise the truck has been on the road for a year, 112hrs, 3,000 miles. Some days the engine makes a lot of wackadoodle noises and sometimes it don’t. Very low on power the more noise it’s makes.

Besides the valve train racket there’s this odd hollow/cyclical/tin noise. Suspects could be water pump/cover, fuel pump eccentric or who knows what. It’s high and forward in the engine. Not low like it’s the Flexplate. Intensity grows with rpm. Very noticeable cold.

Cold oil psi is great as you would expect. 65-70 upon start up. At 60psi the load is tremendous at start up. Hot idle in gear is 12ish, 40 at highway speed 2,500 range. Psi can fluctuate greatly. Suspect some OP bypass valve issues? The psi is within the desired rpm/psi scale but for HV it’s very low.

Needs some engine management winter prep.
 
What oil are you running? Those all sound like just fine numbers. Even 70psi cold isn't unreasonable, can't imagine you are breaking pump drive shafts over it
 
20w50. Cold psi is exactly what I’d expect but it’s the hot values that’s concerning with a HV pump. When the engine was “fresh” it had 55+ at hwy speeds 20+ idle in gear.

Once it developed all the noises, it lost oil pressure with it. Don’t know if I’ll open the engine up for inspection. Probably worth an extra dollar sealed up and running.

It has an aftermarket driveshaft. I’m more worried about the roll pin surviving. Just noting how much load a HV pump puts on a tired engine.

I pledged years ago to never use a HV again but this one was in hand so I shrugged my shoulders and used it anyways.
 
Wut? Can’t hear you over the wonderful noise these spintechs make

And I don’t have tunes because this ain’t speed metal garage.
 
IDK how the engine still runs, has vacuum, will pull truck north of 90 until the tires shake but as it continues to degrade, the fuel tune is also F’d

The smell at idle will drop you dead. A very obnoxious high proof gasoline smell. Wife pointed this out following me home a few weeks ago, just now had time to pull plugs and carb.

The plugs on the driver side upper plenum are dark and wet. The others are a dry crusty something and light. Dark plugs appear smoother without deposits. All electrodes show signs of wear towards the ground strap. Plugs are all indexed towards intake valve.

Pulled apart the carb and verified all circuits with compressed air and light where I can. Jets, PV were tight. PV held 28” vacuum for 20 something minutes. A few base plate screws were on the loose side.

Moving forward the jets are replaced with genuine Holley, bumped the primaries up to 74. Might attempt staggered jetting later today.

Also trying some spark controller settings. Higher output and or shutting off multiple spark.

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Still bench racing. All options require a purpose built C6. I’m tired of this soggy shifting. My biggest enemy is time.

Inspect and fix the 351M has the lowest financial impact and downtime. “Plug and play”

Found a 400 crank somewhat local and pair that with TMeyer pistons, I’ll surely destroy a driveshaft. :smokin: Requires full machine shop treatment. Absolutely nullifies BBF swap for several years until after we move.

429/460/Beyond requires a professional consultation with the madporter. Otherwise I’m just at war inside my head with ideas and misinformation on the internet. Full machine shop treatment required. Honestly rather eat the freight costs and deal with Scott directly beyond consultation.

Shade tree 429 overhaul sounds fun but that is the culprit of this 351M trouble. Ok, a little bit machine shop attention, cam and flat tops. 429 pistons cost more than 460/beyond components etc. It escalates incredibly quick and not just from ego.
 
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What do you suspect is wrong/happening with current M block? Still up in the air?
 
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Sounds like it's time to yank the motor and tear it down, then make decision.

Working with Scott will be faster/cheaper in the end, because he/you will get it right the first time. You can buy everything from him as a dyno proven package and have your block done locally. You can port heads yourself, however the valve job is dependent on quality of the machine shop. If Scott does the head machine work you know it's right and best parts used.
 
Wish I knew or could better describe the sounds and symptoms. It’s the valvetrain at large. Every high speed run hurts it just a little bit more. But continues to do the job. It’ll be interesting what I find when the day comes.

It responded well to genuine jets and turning off the multi-spark capability and increasing the megajoules. Great Scott Marty!!!! Maybe it’s snake oil? Don’t have a lot of faith in the ignition package.

Agreed, I have no doubts purchasing a product from Scott. Good times reading his material. I haven’t visited a local builder but I don’t see a good outcome asking another shop to follow his recipe. The cost of freight is insignificant knowing the job is done right.
 
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