Build getting classy chappy .... Class Act Fab Buggy *2

chaplinfj60 said:
two reasons. one being damage from **** getting in there but that is not that likely really. second is i can make my link mount on the axle wider witch will help with shock clearance on trailing arms. but in reality i should get a a caliper and see.
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You should make sure the width doesn't conflict with C's location if you ever want to go rear steer in in the future.
 
Two things. 1) why did you ditch the rear steer axle? 2) looking at the picture it looks like the brackets can just rotate around and bolt back in 180. i realize this would put the bleeder on the bottom but you could all ways bleed in the front and rotate around once the air is gone.

10,000% what Bebop said!!!!!!!!
 
Flipping the brackets doesn't work. The brackets are actually the same part from side to side. The part that changes is the flange welded on the axle. The flange is not a square or rectangle pattern its more of a trapezoid and they are not mirror images of each other side to side. The way the flanges are welded on puts one bracket on right side up and the other upside down no matter what you do. You'd have to cut and sleeve, or weld new flanges on.

I'd just leave it as is. I guess you could make new caliper brackets. I've been toying with the idea of doing the F150 electric e-brake calipers on mine and that might be a determining factor if stock brakes won't fit.
 
i still have steer axle. it was removed because i had a deep conversation with myself and decided i dont want to go that route yet. so many little things that go into it i did not consider. what i have considered is making a front axle instead. but not at this time.
 
I don't know about where you wheel, but here....there are trails you can't do without 4WS. It's really that simple. If I were building a car today, no way would I even consider it without rear steer.
 
Sean said:
I don't know about where you wheel, but here....there are trails you can't do without 4WS. It's really that simple. If I were building a car today, no way would I even consider it without rear steer.
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And there isn't a trail that we've done or that I've done here that you need four-wheel steer on. Just cuz it's it's mud rocks and hills. More than technical calling which is a bummer sometimes
 
If you have a steer axle on hand and a chassis that fits it don't build it without rear steer. Just don't.

If you can't afford the hydraulics etc at this point just put the steer axle in there, build your tie rods and tab them to the housing instead of a cylinder. Much easier to add later that way.
 
Wendle said:
If you have a steer axle on hand and a chassis that fits it don't build it without rear steer. Just don't.

If you can't afford the hydraulics etc at this point just put the steer axle in there, build your tie rods and tab them to the housing instead of a cylinder. Much easier to add later that way.
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The expensive portion is the shafts, not the steering.
 
Bebop said:
The expensive portion is the shafts, not the steering.
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agreed. i do agree with the thought process of not boxing my self in a corner with drag axle. so as i go forward i will look at that for the future. for instance my upper mounts will be the same for each axle. and all the chassis mounts will be same. only thing will be where i mount lower axle mount but could make that the same depending on how trailing arms swing under chassis and shock mount would be different on each axle but i have decided for the rear on a steer axle i would put right next to the knuckle. not on link mount

i do appreciate the thoughts and feed back.

keep you posted for sure
 
Bebop said:
The expensive portion is the shafts, not the steering.
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Exactly.

My thought is also that you're probably less likely to get away with cheap or mid level shafts in a rear steer axle since it will see more stress on climbs.

Ie: I'd be somewhat OK with some Yukons or similar in the front to get the rig going, but no way I'm running them f&r.
 
Tell me about it.. 40 spline ECGS inner/outer shafts, 1550 Branik u-joints, Branik total spline stubs is about 6200 for my build. Its a tall order but, as they say, buy once cry once.. Add in the GW HP thirds front and rear , then it gets serious...another $8200.. This is supposed to be fun right? :)
 
Honestly I'd toss a drag axle in it for now if you have it already. Go wheel, have some fun in it and build the rear steer axle out with good parts and swap it in over winter/off season. Just plan around it being rear steer eventually.

My complete rear axle end to end cost less than just my front shafts and joints alone.
 
94toytruck said:
Honestly I'd toss a drag axle in it for now if you have it already. Go wheel, have some fun in it and build the rear steer axle out with good parts and swap it in over winter/off season. Just plan around it being rear steer eventually.

My complete rear axle end to end cost less than just my front shafts and joints alone.
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Seems like the best route in in my book for his build.

Rear steer is always an option since he still has the axle on hand.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
What about keeping the rear steer axle under there for suspension mock up, make sure the tires clear everything. The just copy over to the other axle?
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i have been looking at this. so one of the trade offs if you call it a trade off is trailing arms on drag axle wont really work with the suspension swing and getting into the frame. i could notch sure. but currently. upper link would will transfer between both and all 4 chassis mounts will also.
so yes rear steer axle is in the mix but on the back burner.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
i have been looking at this. so one of the trade offs if you call it a trade off is trailing arms on drag axle wont really work with the suspension swing and getting into the frame. i could notch sure. but currently. upper link would will transfer between both and all 4 chassis mounts will also.
so yes rear steer axle is in the mix but on the back burner.
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I'm trying to understand why it would work with a steer axle and not a non steering axle?

Bkor went to upper link trailing arms on thier 4 seater. Would that help anything?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I like the idea because you can build them however, but don't have to worry about loosing clearance.
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we did the carrier bearing today and did not even get a chance to look at the rears. lots of little things to get these in a good spot.
little bit of down hill and little side angle.
i used 2 bushing kits .DOM 1.5 inch from barns. and they will weld to the carrier bearing. then there will be a plate going down to the sub frame and a backing plate. gonna work real nice i think.

drive shaft will be 2.5in 1/4 wall tubing and will clear everything real good.





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YotaAtieToo said:
I'm trying to understand why it would work with a steer axle and not a non steering axle?

Bkor went to upper link trailing arms on thier 4 seater. Would that help anything?
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The problem with mounting off of the upper links is that the shocks wind up really high in the chassis. Not a big deal if your running a rear radiator up high and have the engine in the back and a ton of other race stuff packed back there, but for a simple trail rig with nothing else back there they just look goofy and can be in the way sight wise.

In my opinion, which is probably wrong, from more of a design perspective, you need to pick one, rear steer or trailing arms and go with that. Everything is already a compromise so trying to accommodate all future ideas means more compromises. You can spread the links at the axle end and even spread the shocks further apart in the chassis for better stability with trailing arms, or narrow everything up to make space for rear steer. Neither ones wrong, rear steer would be awesome, but I can barely afford what I'm doing, so I pushed towards greater stability and trailing arms. I could have designed for both, but that would have meant having a less optimized shock setup for an axle that doesn't steer.
 
Ghetto Fab. said:
In my opinion, which is probably wrong, from more of a design perspective, you need to pick one, rear steer or trailing arms and go with that.
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My car and BKOR buggies can fit both.
It's not a problem if you plan for it in the first place.
 
and i am in you camp with trailing arms also. and yes rear steer is challenge on the pocket book for sure.

as it sits now its full steam ahead drag axle with max travel i can manage.
 
trailbombers are also rear steer and trailing arm.
 
so we got the front drive shaft complete. kinda random but we wanted it inplace so we can verify clearance around links and exhaust and up in the cabin for the carrier bearing placement also.
drive shaft is 2.5 dom x .250 wall.
started with a weld yoke 1350 ujoint. this one is awesome because right out of the box it can be put in the DOM. perfect fit.
then the splined piece and yoke. so the splined end was a solid piece. machined it down to fit inside the DOM and bam. we have a beefy drive shaft.











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