Ray Charles Tacoma build

You do know you can get a new center ball for that right?
The center ball has the needle bearings inside and is part of the shaft. How would that work? I’d be interested in rebuilding it if I can find parts
 
The center ball has the needle bearings inside and is part of the shaft. How would that work? I’d be interested in rebuilding it if I can find parts

It's just a bearing pressed into a hole. Drop a bolt down in there, give it a few tacks, slip a socket over it and pull the thing out.

Need to measure the seal and the stud to be sure but I'll guess that its this one. Lemme know if you cant round one up and I'll send one your way

1000001667.jpg
 
Last edited:
It's just a bearing pressed into a hole. Drop a bolt down in there, give it a few tacks, slip a socket over it and pull the thing out.

Need to measure the seal and the stud to be sure but I'll guess that its this one. Lemme know if you cant round one up and I'll send one your way

1000001667.jpg
****, that's a good tip to remove them. I've been doing it the hard way.


OP: suggest checking the pin for wear before ordering a bearing too. They can end up tapered and you'll still have slop even with a new bearing.
 
It's just a bearing pressed into a hole. Drop a bolt down in there, give it a few tacks, slip a socket over it and pull the thing out.

Need to measure the seal and the stud to be sure but I'll guess that its this one. Lemme know if you cant round one up and I'll send one your way

1000001667.jpg
Thanks for the help! I haven't even looked at the driveshaft since the last trip lol. I need to get that fixed so I have a spare
 
Finally catching up on this thread, hit Tacos on the Rubicon mid August and had a blast! Met a ton of cool people as well as old friends on the trail. Taco did good minus a broken upper link bolt and the ARB harness ****ting the bed.

I had the nut back out on the upper link and I didn't even think to bolt check it for years so who knows how long its been like that. It caused the johnny joint to break off at the misalignment end. I scoured the springs and rounded up a bolt, nut and a track bar spacer with a 9/16" bolt hole. We turned that down with a grinder and slammed it in and wheeled the rest of the trip like that and drove out tahoe side 2hrs back to the loon side.

Link hole is wallowed out so I went up a bolt size on the new johnny joint, gonna drill it to 5/8" and hope that takes out the ovaled holes. Apparently no one runs 9/16" stuff, everyone I found on the trail had 5/8" heims or Johnny Joints. I will post updates once I dig into that and the ARB harness. Thinking the harness plugs have a bad pin cause power to the switch works inter intermittently

blew a trailer tire 30 minutes into the drive, turned around and got that fixed and headed on our way.

Dude in the XJ had an electrical fire start in little sluice so we helped him get that put out, they tried to winch off the hood since it burned so bad they couldn't open it. The fire would keep starting after it got extinguished so we burned through a lot of fire extinguishers.

Tons of cool rigs on the trail, I will post some of my favorites
IMG_0867.jpeg
IMG_0876.jpeg
IMG_0880.jpeg
IMG_0882.jpeg



IMG_0884.jpeg
IMG_0886.jpeg
IMG_0892.jpeg
IMG_0898.jpeg
IMG_0900.jpeg
IMG_0902.jpeg
 
have you considered ditching the arb electric solenoid all together and use a air valve. i only mention it because i was watching shannons videos and he went in detail about the valves he used. well maybe not detail but i asked him about them and he responded in minutes.
and power tank also sells them. not sure if this will help or not but worth the look.

 
have you considered ditching the arb electric solenoid all together and use a air valve. i only mention it because i was watching shannons videos and he went in detail about the valves he used. well maybe not detail but i asked him about them and he responded in minutes.
and power tank also sells them. not sure if this will help or not but worth the look.

That's what I did on my truck, but with switches and fittings from McMaster. 1/4" high abrasion OTR truck air line, with push to connect fittings throughout, and regular venting pneumatic switches. Pretty cheap, dead reliable.
 
have you considered ditching the arb electric solenoid all together and use a air valve. i only mention it because i was watching shannons videos and he went in detail about the valves he used. well maybe not detail but i asked him about them and he responded in minutes.
and power tank also sells them. not sure if this will help or not but worth the look.


Been brought up a bunch
:flipoff2:


No reason to use an over priced switch though.

Screenshot_20250903_084253_Chrome.jpg
 
I still need to look into swapping to those style switches, I've been to lazy to track all the parts down.

I got my upper link fixed, drilled the hole out to 5/8" and slapped a 5/8" Johnny Joint in there. I also found a pin that worked its way out on my ARB switch so that was why I had intermittent power to the switch

Hit Coyote lake for a quick trip with Colin and Todd, haven't wheeled just the 3 of us in a long time. We wheeled in at night, got in around 2:30AM, hit a lot of dumb bonus lines and none of us broke this trip
IMG_1476.jpeg
IMG_1517.jpeg
IMG_1447.jpeg
IMG_1485.jpeg
IMG_1495.jpeg
IMG_1499.jpeg
IMG_1513.jpeg
 
I finally pulled the trigger on a rear 3 link. I went back and forth between going full backhalf and 4 link with a fuel cell but I figured the bed and keeping it smoggable and streetable was more important since I drive several hours on the road when wheeling rubicon and Shaver trails.

I currently don't have a shop or space to work on my truck so my buddy was nice enough to let me use his shop for a few weekends. I ordered up the Martec kit after getting to check it out in person at the Rubicon and see it in action. Nick is a super cool dude and designed a really well thought out kit. I am gonna run the 2.5 coilovers I already have in back and just add the springs and hardware on them since I have them set up as smoothies. I should get the kit early December so I will post some updates on it when I get to cutting.


IMG_0613(1).jpeg
 
I’ve been following MarTec on YouTube. Looks like a solid kit he puts together.

3-Link is a great way to stay smog legal and not have to swap your gas tank. And the trailing arms are a great way to link it without having to chop your bed up and loose bed space.
 
Finally getting around to updating this thread, took Ray Charles out to Johnson Valley for thanksgiving and wheeled it hard. 4 nights of wheeling and 3 full days of absolute abuse. Only carnage for me was breaking on the last day, we hit Sledgehammer and the front driver side 1550 stub shaft decided to leave the chat. I got bound up right above plaque rock and it went bang. Took out my hub and the unit bearing race exploded. Drove back down the trail in 3 wheel drive and swapped back the stock shaft and a spare hub and then went and sent it up backdoor for backdoor bash.

Made it up backdoor 3 times during the trip which was cool. There was to many drunk idiots at backdoor bash, had some dude ram into my door while I was standing next to the truck, he then tried to fight me and my group when I called him out. Oh well, just going to avoid going during events I guess. Next update is going to be cutting the truck up for the rear 3 link
IMG_2107.jpeg
IMG_2133.jpeg
IMG_2144.jpeg
IMG_2157.jpeg
IMG_2191.jpeg
IMG_2202.jpeg
IMG_2206.jpeg
IMG_2215.jpeg
IMG_2226.jpeg
IMG_2237.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Todd broke a tie rod end on Susan at Aftershock trail, swapped out out super quick. Right after that Colin bound up on the last obstacle and broke a ubolt and center pin on the leaf. Got that fixed and we all made it off the trail. Here are more pics cause I hate reading a novel. MOAR PICS
IMG_2238.jpeg
IMG_2265.jpeg
IMG_2272.jpeg
IMG_2278.jpeg
IMG_2298.jpeg
IMG_2322.jpeg
IMG_2330.jpeg
IMG_2329.jpeg
IMG_2326.jpeg

 
Last edited:
This post brings the thread up to speed. I am using a buddies shop to do the rear 3 link install. I spent this weekend just cutting and grinding off all the old ****. I should have just cut the frame off and made a new one out of 2x3 I think it would have been faster.

I bought Martecs 3 link kit minus the frame plates which key everything into place so I'm winging it but everything else should install fairly easily. I took some measurements for reference, frame was sitting at 27" in back with no weight in the bed ( I usually have it at 25"). I was pulling 4.5" of uptravel with the chevy 63s ( I bumped them out when the springs were flat so I didn't keep bending them). Next weekend is going to be throwing the trailing arms on and mocking it all up. I will post more updates next week.
IMG_2470.jpeg
IMG_2473.jpeg
IMG_2472.jpeg
IMG_2475.jpeg
IMG_2477.jpeg
IMG_2478.jpeg
IMG_2480.jpeg
IMG_2481.jpeg
IMG_2484.jpeg
IMG_2489.jpeg
 
wow you broke the stub. i forget what your gearing is but the stub broke and not the ujoint. thats cool....
 
Last edited:
Getting over the plaque rock these days can be a real mofo, I miss the super left line that it used to be.
 
That's lame about the guy who tried to fight you, some of the people wheelin has attracted really such these days. I've had multiple instances on Fordyce due to ******s.

Cool on the 3 link tho, what the plan for a sway bar?
 
Getting over the plaque rock these days can be a real mofo, I miss the super left line that it used to be.
Left line was way more fun! The right side is just to narrow for full width axles. Someone kicked a huge diff rock in the middle so it makes for a fun time
 
That's lame about the guy who tried to fight you, some of the people wheelin has attracted really such these days. I've had multiple instances on Fordyce due to ******s.

Cool on the 3 link tho, what the plan for a sway bar?
I’ve got a tk1 sway bar that comes with the Martec kit so that should help with body roll.
 
Left line was way more fun! The right side is just to narrow for full width axles. Someone kicked a huge diff rock in the middle so it makes for a fun time

I need to get back down there, the last time I was there, I'd swear left was the only way :laughing:

I’ve got a tk1 sway bar that comes with the Martec kit so that should help with body roll.

Gotcha, just curious
 
Updates from this week. I thrashed on the truck Friday and got the links and panhard all tacked. The kit I purchased was designed around a double cab frame so some of the measurments don't work on my extra cab frame. I have some body mounts that get in the way on the frame side lower links so I just put everything where it wanted to fit and cycled it up and down a bunch.

I will have to trim my sliders to clear the trailing arms and articulate everything once I get the shocks on but it all seems to clear nicely when I bump it all out. My wheelbase is now 124 vs 128 so not sure what that will do for the fender cutouts. I might end up cutting a lot more out of the bed than I had anticipated.
IMG_2584.jpeg
IMG_2583.jpeg
IMG_2585.jpeg
IMG_2563.jpeg
IMG_2558.jpeg
IMG_2560.jpeg
IMG_2552.jpeg
IMG_2541.jpeg
IMG_2548.jpeg
IMG_2553.jpeg
 
Top Back Refresh