Samurai t-case cradle

Flaze

Flaze

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Joined
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Hello.
Im thinking on weather i need to drop some extra cash on a t-case cradle (very pricy to import from US), or weather i can get away with running poly-bushes with the stock mounts.
Picked up some 4.9-1 t-case gears and 31" cst cl18 tires.
I wheel it pretty hard, primarily mud.

Would be curious to know how your zukes hold up with similar mods!

signal-2025-09-02-133619.jpeg
signal-2025-09-02-133537.jpeg
 
I ran 6.5s on Toys with 36s and 5.29s.

I had a Kong mount that lasted two trips. I ripped the mounts right off the case. Had that repaired and lasted one more trip.

I'd never run a setup without a cradle. I recall a "snatch" or something. Been over ten years so who knows what's what now.
 
woods said:
I ran 6.5s on Toys with 36s and 5.29s.

I had a Kong mount that lasted two trips. I ripped the mounts right off the case. Had that repaired and lasted one more trip.

I'd never run a setup without a cradle. I recall a "snatch" or something. Been over ten years so who knows what's what now.
Click to expand...
well, that not great news lol.
The 2 i can find are zoro snatch, one youre talking about, and a "lowrange" one that trailgear sells.
They just cost a stupid amount after import so i want to make sure i really need one before spending the money.
By looking at it, the super snatch does seem more thought out, and seemingly a bit cheaper as well.
 
woods said:
I ran 6.5s on Toys with 36s and 5.29s.

I had a Kong mount that lasted two trips. I ripped the mounts right off the case. Had that repaired and lasted one more trip.

I'd never run a setup without a cradle. I recall a "snatch" or something. Been over ten years so who knows what's what now.
Click to expand...
Hmm, i found this hm4x4 cradle. It uses 3 poly bushes, and only add's 3 extra bolts to the t-case, but it seems to be pretty sturdy. Made out of 5mm steel with some nice gussets for extra rigidity.
Its also almost 1/3 the price for me compared to US options lol.

Thoughts on this one?

1756823876548.png
1756823941758.png
1756823964191.png
 
EOS from low range.

The spine revision with 4 mounts. Normal cradles do nothing for the input of the case and that becomes the weak link when thrashing.
 
bad zuki said:
EOS from low range.

The spine revision with 4 mounts. Normal cradles do nothing for the input of the case and that becomes the weak link when thrashing.
Click to expand...
HM cradle has 2 on the front output and 1 on the input. Think its still going to be to weak?
 
Yea, go for the spine setup.

I think it was this block here:
1756823876548.png


that I completely ripped off the t/c. Its this protruding block piece that sticks up and out. I had the rewelded on, and it tore off again. Half way up a mountain, my t/c is flopping around. Made for a rough way back.
 
Flaze said:
HM cradle has 2 on the front output and 1 on the input. Think its still going to be to weak?
Click to expand...
4 mounts on the samurai frame to keep from ripping the driver side single mount off. I like using new samurai transfer case mounts. They stretch more than the bolt mounts and I haven't broken the 4 that are in mine in years. They called it the End Of Story for a reason....

The EOS Solves the top part of the case. All of those tcase mounts don't solve the final problem. This line is where they break with the open top mounts. The input shaft supply's enough power to separate the case on the blue line due to the amount of gear reduction happening in the case. It's a direct shear line from the input bearing/cross shaft/ then out the top. I've got 3 of these at the shop as a demonstration.


Screenshot 2025-09-02 110230.jpg


woods said:
suzuki.roadlessgear.com

"Super Snatch" Ultimate T-Case Mount for Samurai

Everything you need for your Suzuki Samurai, Sidekick or Geo Tracker vehicle (even if you don't yet know you need it)...
suzuki.roadlessgear.com suzuki.roadlessgear.com

483_super-snatch-ultimate-t-case-mount-for-samurai.jpg


This is the one I should have gone with from the start.
Click to expand...
Love Myrons products, but he isn't putting out the stock like he used too. He was back ordered like 4-6 months on these. That's the 17 bolt one (it was upgraded from the 14 by that little C on the top of the case) I also have the pictures of why it's called the snatch from the old site.
:barf: :flipoff2:
 
bad zuki said:
4 mounts on the samurai frame to keep from ripping the driver side single mount off. I like using new samurai transfer case mounts. They stretch more than the bolt mounts and I haven't broken the 4 that are in mine in years. They called it the End Of Story for a reason....

The EOS Solves the top part of the case. All of those tcase mounts don't solve the final problem. This line is where they break with the open top mounts. The input shaft supply's enough power to separate the case on the blue line due to the amount of gear reduction happening in the case. It's a direct shear line from the input bearing/cross shaft/ then out the top. I've got 3 of these at the shop as a demonstration.


Screenshot 2025-09-02 110230.jpg



Love Myrons products, but he isn't putting out the stock like he used too. He was back ordered like 4-6 months on these. That's the 17 bolt one (it was upgraded from the 14 by that little C on the top of the case) I also have the pictures of why it's called the snatch from the old site.
:barf: :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
I have the dirty snatch with panty liner.

Came with some interesting pictures in the install guide.

Something wrong with that dude.
 
Screenshot 2025-09-02 110230.jpg


This block right here is what ripped off mine a few times. I had to find another case, which took about a month, to swap in my guts. I was fighting stuff on my rear axle too- forget what. Maybe the disc brake adapter? At that point everything started to break apart and I parted the rig out.
 
Covecrawler said:
I have the dirty snatch with panty liner.

Came with some interesting pictures in the install guide.

Something wrong with that dude.
Click to expand...
The NSFW ones or the bikini ones.

I sold a spare snatch to someone this spring, but it was missing the driver side mount. I called my to have him ship out a replacement, and he didn’t have them and was backordered on the cradles themselves.


woods said:
This block right here is what ripped off mine a few times. I had to find another case, which took about a month, to swap in my guts. I was fighting stuff on my rear axle too- forget what. Maybe the disc brake adapter? At that point everything started to break apart and I parted the rig out.
Click to expand...
That’s pretty common and why people went to the 3rd mount on the back of the case. The spine is still the better mount IMHO.
 
Flaze said:
Hmm, i found this hm4x4 cradle. It uses 3 poly bushes, and only add's 3 extra bolts to the t-case, but it seems to be pretty sturdy. Made out of 5mm steel with some nice gussets for extra rigidity.
Its also almost 1/3 the price for me compared to US options lol.

Thoughts on this one?

1756823876548.png
1756823941758.png
1756823964191.png
Click to expand...

This is ok, only if you also add this to it:

www.masterforest-boutique.com

Transfer case reinforcement, Suzuki Santana Samurai

Reinforce your Samurai’s transfer case ! All the transfer case spare parts for Samurai are on Masterforest, Suzuki and Santana 4WD specialist
www.masterforest-boutique.com www.masterforest-boutique.com
 
Yawp. That spine is a big part of tying it all in.
 
There's a gut overseas making the backbone that wraps around the case. No idea if it fits a stock truck or not. I tied my backbone to the mounts also.
 
Form&function said:
There's a gut overseas making the backbone that wraps around the case. No idea if it fits a stock truck or not. I tied my backbone to the mounts also.
Click to expand...
Yah, i could weld it on the HM cradle in theory. Issue is that both super snatch and EOS are to expensive to buy, it would be cheaper to make something similar me self, or modify the HM
 
bad zuki said:
4 mounts on the samurai frame to keep from ripping the driver side single mount off. I like using new samurai transfer case mounts. They stretch more than the bolt mounts and I haven't broken the 4 that are in mine in years. They called it the End Of Story for a reason....

The EOS Solves the top part of the case. All of those tcase mounts don't solve the final problem. This line is where they break with the open top mounts. The input shaft supply's enough power to separate the case on the blue line due to the amount of gear reduction happening in the case. It's a direct shear line from the input bearing/cross shaft/ then out the top. I've got 3 of these at the shop as a demonstration.


Screenshot 2025-09-02 110230.jpg



Love Myrons products, but he isn't putting out the stock like he used too. He was back ordered like 4-6 months on these. That's the 17 bolt one (it was upgraded from the 14 by that little C on the top of the case) I also have the pictures of why it's called the snatch from the old site.
:barf: :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
what kind of setups were breaking them?
My final form is likely going to be 33's since i dont want to cut up the frame, with 4.9's and likely a vitara 1.6 16v.
But thats a bit further down the line.
 
Flaze said:
what kind of setups were breaking them?
My final form is likely going to be 33's since i dont want to cut up the frame, with 4.9's and likely a vitara 1.6 16v.
But thats a bit further down the line.
Click to expand...
1.6 16v
4.9
31-33s
Lead Foot.

This stage I had the mighty Kong and went through every different transfer case. I think one year I blew up 4 of them. I used to sell parts to Trail tough for core charges and went through every single version of transfer case mounts in the process. Rock 4x’s, Hard mounted, Through bolts with sway bar bushings, MK, Snatch, then the EOS, and haven’t broken it doing wheelies.

IMG_8739.jpeg


There is a video of me wheeling up a rock section. I only have the still shots.

5283_10151846488548787_351629401_n.jpeg
 
Flaze said:
what kind of setups were breaking them?
My final form is likely going to be 33's since i dont want to cut up the frame, with 4.9's and likely a vitara 1.6 16v.
But thats a bit further down the line.
Click to expand...
6.5s, 30s, and a mini spool I believe I was ok.

Wasn't until Toy axles and 36s I tore everything up.
 
Bebop said:
This is ok, only if you also add this to it:

www.masterforest-boutique.com

Transfer case reinforcement, Suzuki Santana Samurai

Reinforce your Samurai’s transfer case ! All the transfer case spare parts for Samurai are on Masterforest, Suzuki and Santana 4WD specialist
www.masterforest-boutique.com www.masterforest-boutique.com
Click to expand...
That's what I was talking about. Too expensive to get it here so I made my own and bolted it to the mounts
 
bad zuki said:
1.6 16v
4.9
31-33s
Lead Foot.

This stage I had the mighty Kong and went through every different transfer case. I think one year I blew up 4 of them. I used to sell parts to Trail tough for core charges and went through every single version of transfer case mounts in the process. Rock 4x’s, Hard mounted, Through bolts with sway bar bushings, MK, Snatch, then the EOS, and haven’t broken it doing wheelies.

IMG_8739.jpeg


There is a video of me wheeling up a rock section. I only have the still shots.

5283_10151846488548787_351629401_n.jpeg
Click to expand...
**** me lol.
Ill PM my 4x4 dealer to see how much the EOS would run me.
Im almost tempted to make it me self tho, the construction seems very easy to make. Pretty cleaver design in terms of cheap manufacturing.
 
Flaze said:
Im almost tempted to make it me self tho, the construction seems very easy to make. Pretty cleaver design in terms of cheap manufacturing.
Click to expand...
That was my first thought when you bitched about international shipping. I bet if you can draw it and do the welding you can save a bunch of money over having a complete one shipped by having the complex parts plasma/laser/waterjet cut locally.

If you can get the flat plate that Bebop linked shipped cheap-ish I think that would save a lot of effort though.
 
OG Trail Tough 6.5:1 gears, OG Mighty Kong Bucket, OEM TC mounts, ZOR Panty liner for driver side frame horn.
Trail Tough OG Full Skid plate, added Weld washers to the pass rear frame horn.

Polly's will wallor your holes.

I tried the hinged TT mounts and tore the driver side frame horn. :homer:

OEM mounts, The full skid plate, (buckets and cradles are not turtle plates), fresh gear oil and using a torque wrench to check TC case bolts have kept my junk going 20 plus yrs.
 
Last edited:
crisbee1 said:
OG Trail Tough 6.5:1 gears, OG Mighty Kong Bucket, OEM TC mounts, ZOR Panty liner for driver side frame horn.
Trail Tough OG Full Skid plate, added Weld washers to the pass rear frame horn.

Polly's will wallor your holes.

I tried the hinged TT mounts and tore the driver side frame horn.

OEM mounts, The full skid plate, (buckets and cradles are not turtle plates), fresh gear gear oil and using a torque wrench to check TC case bolts have kept my junk going 20 plus yrs.
Click to expand...
what sized wheels do you run? And stock 1.3?
 
33x12.50x15 pats on Toys,
I run a big valve and cam Sumo II head on a kinda stock block 1.3, short headers, 89' 1.6 tbi.
Toy Axles, cut and rotated at ZOR, I built them out with Nitro 4:88's, Nitro spool, lunchbox front.
 
Last edited:
crisbee1 said:
33x12.50x15 pats on Toys,
I run a big valve and cam Sumo II head on a kinda stock block 1.3, short headers, 89' 1.6 tbi.
Toy Axles, cut and rotated at ZOR, I built them out with Nitro 4:88's, Nitro spool, lunchbox front.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a dope rig, how much power you think youre making?
 
Aight boys, rip in peace, my bank acc.
Ordered the EOS cradle.
Very painful but i dont really have the time to fab stuff me self atm and dont want to risk having to buy the same thing twice.
Appreciate the input~
 
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