hard pipe/tube from the filler through the firewall, full plate ext cab window filler. as mentioned get it as low as possible with a GIANT vent.
if it was mine, it would put it here
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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
Build Tacoma 4500 build
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hard pipe/tube from the filler through the firewall, full plate ext cab window filler. as mentioned get it as low as possible with a GIANT vent.
if it was mine, it would put it here
Malburg114
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Been getting ready for tacos on the rubicon next week so not much progress. Got some double shear steering done. Just need to do the passenger side. And welded and capped the front upper shock mounts
And finally got harnesses in the crawler.
And finally got harnesses in the crawler.
hard pipe/tube from the filler through the firewall, full plate ext cab window filler. as mentioned get it as low as possible with a GIANT vent.
if it was mine, it would put it here
Are you 7 feet tall and have you ever picked up a full 11 gallon dump can?
no and yes.
it will end at the height or taller given the dimensions of his fuel cell.
Malburg114
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Got the passenger double shear done and worked on the pitman arm some. Cycled the suspension to make sure the heims don’t bottom out so fully weld that tomorrow. Picked up some 1.5x.25 wall dom and made the tie rods/draglink and panhard and milled some flats in them for a wrench. Not made for a specific size to prevent taking to much material so I’ll just use a crescent wrench.
Trying to wrap up as much stuff on the outside as I can before starting a new task like the fuel cell filler or something else
Trying to wrap up as much stuff on the outside as I can before starting a new task like the fuel cell filler or something else
Malburg114
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After I went in from welding the bungs I realized I screwed up and welded both rights on one bar and both lefts on the other. Ordered new ones from poly performance but shifted direction to going over the crawler for tacos on the rubicon and getting the trailer ready. Overall the rubicon was a great time. Super dusty and seemed rougher than usual but no issues it seemed
Placed a big order yesterday for stuff and cycled the front some more as it seemed like I had a lot of bump steer but after putting the permanent draglink and panhard in, it’s at best very minimal
Placed a big order yesterday for stuff and cycled the front some more as it seemed like I had a lot of bump steer but after putting the permanent draglink and panhard in, it’s at best very minimal
Malburg114
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My dad was here for a few days and we knocked out the sliders. Hopefully they don’t bend. Debating sleeving them with 1.5 solid aluminum or 1.5x.120 wall tubing.
Welded up the pitman arm after cycling the front again. And made some sway bar extensions for the Currie bars my dad gave me. Also worked out and made them dual shear. Practiced my tig on them and feel like I’m getting better
And slapped the busted hood and some fenders on. Need to order an 01-04 hood and driver fender.
Welded up the pitman arm after cycling the front again. And made some sway bar extensions for the Currie bars my dad gave me. Also worked out and made them dual shear. Practiced my tig on them and feel like I’m getting better
And slapped the busted hood and some fenders on. Need to order an 01-04 hood and driver fender.
Malburg114
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And the motor from summit, my wheels and a builder exhaust kit showed up from magna flow. Appreciate Magnaflow helping me out and sending the kit out along with a muffler.
Still struggling to find a set of headers to fit the passenger side with the motor mount so if anyone has any suggestions. Ideally I’d like it to dump in front of the motor mount so I can run it under the oil pan and tie into the driver side exhaust.
And no pictures but my dad knocked out the rear third member which looked great. He took all the stuff to build the front one home so that should be done soon as well
Still struggling to find a set of headers to fit the passenger side with the motor mount so if anyone has any suggestions. Ideally I’d like it to dump in front of the motor mount so I can run it under the oil pan and tie into the driver side exhaust.
And no pictures but my dad knocked out the rear third member which looked great. He took all the stuff to build the front one home so that should be done soon as well
You fancy
Malburg114
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The headers I have dump to high for that or just don’t clear the motor mount
These are what I have and the exit is just to high to clear the paneling and interior.
And ones similar to these. The driver side one of this fits fine. The passenger gets into the motor mount.
I’m guessing I need something like these but I’d hate to order another set and they not work either
I had the same issue with my exhaust. I ended up port matching my G8 GT stock manifolds and cutting off the outlet flange, and using 309 rod to weld a 2.5 inch v-band on, so I could play with the angles of where I wanted to route my exhaust. Just a thought.
350TacoZilla
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I hate to sound older than I am but on the LS platform unless you are over 400hp do you really think its worth the money and hassle for headers? The stock manifolds cleaned up a bit seal better and probably only kill a few HP.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
How bout Hooker Blackhearts ran backwards?
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Are the 1.75x120 or 2x250?
If 1.75 dom, you're insane thinking those won't get destroyed. That material does hold up on a mild trail rig, can't imagine what it would be like on a race rig.
Slugging with aluminum is ******ed imo because it only helps with dent resistance, but not really bending since the aluminum flexes more than steel.
Also, aluminum is lighter than steel, but not wieghtless. Google says 1.5 solid aluminum is about the same wieght per foot as 1.5x188 dom, so you may as well just use that.
If it's 2x250, you will pull your hair out trying to slug that.
Malburg114
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Motor should make 450 at the crank but it seems like a set of stock manifolds may work after someone sent me some measurements and pictures. I just don’t have a set laying around and need to order some.
Malburg114
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Besides the price tag, something like that may work. I think I’ll try a set of stock ones if I can find a set cheap locally or order an f body ones as those are similar but look even tighter to the head.How bout Hooker Blackhearts ran backwards?
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Check out these guys, stainless, use bands instead of ******ed flanges, many different variations and price is crazy cheap. Grabbed a set fory father in laws jeep and they are pretty nice for the price imo.
Malburg114
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Guess I’m ******ed then lol
If they bend or dent I’ll remake them. They’re 1.75x.120. If I sleeve them with 1.5x.120 makes them .25 ish. I also have some 1.5x.25 I could use but wasn’t planning on it. Not sure I see a solid piece of 1.5 aluminum bending and holding shape while inside of a steel tube with 8 legs every 10 inches but time will tell. And the legs off the frame are only 4.5” so a super short distance vs regular ones that are long and have more leverage.
Pretty much everyone who’s built a car for koh has told me sleeve the lowest points with aluminum or a size down in tubing. If it’s worked for most of their cars don’t see why it won’t work for me.
You’ll really think I’m dumb when I sleeve the lower links (2x.25) with aluminum as well. The lathe makes easy work for taking a small pass off the aluminum to make it slide in easier with some wd40 or something
Malburg114
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See above post where I literally linked their page with the headers I have from them and ones I’m thinking of getting from them.
tribal4krawler
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For what it’s worth my sliders on my race Comanche were 1.75” .120 and we beat the **** out of them and could never tell. Truck wasn’t light either at 5000lbs. I had them similar to yours with short legs and a bunch of em. I see em bend when they have long runners or long gaps between the runners. I think you’ll be fine. I wouldn’t slug em.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Sounds like they'll be more susceptible to dents than bending the whole tube.
I still say aluminum slugging is dumb vs the same wieght of Dom. I'd rather have 120 +188 for Tha same weight than the aluminum. But you're probably right, just the 120+120 should be fine.
Didn't say it wouldn't work, just don't see why it's became such a craze over just thicker tubing.
It is dumb, again, aluminum isn't wieghtless. 2.25x375 dom would be probably very similar in wieght and stronger imo. Or just go chromo and forget about it.
Links is where my example of the steel being able to bend while the aluminum flexes comes more into play. Ask Bebop about his.
How much is 1.5 7075 per foot in your area?
Derp, I couldn't remember the name of the company I used, and when I finally found it, I spaced the brand you posted.
Malburg114
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No one locally sells .188 wall dom. Only .120 or .25 so makes its special order.Sounds like they'll be more susceptible to dents than bending the whole tube.
I still say aluminum slugging is dumb vs the same wieght of Dom. I'd rather have 120 +188 for Tha same weight than the aluminum. But you're probably right, just the 120+120 should be fine.
Didn't say it wouldn't work, just don't see why it's became such a craze over just thicker tubing.
It is dumb, again, aluminum isn't wieghtless. 2.25x375 dom would be probably very similar in wieght and stronger imo. Or just go chromo and forget about it.
Links is where my example of the steel being able to bend while the aluminum flexes comes more into play. Ask Bebop about his.
How much is 1.5 7075 per foot in your area?
Derp, I couldn't remember the name of the company I used, and when I finally found it, I spaced the brand you posted.
And forget about trying to get 2.25x.375. That’s an even more odd size.
They also only sell 6061. 7071 is special order. A 12ft stick of 6061 1.5 was 110 dollars so 9.16 a foot.
If weight is the concern. 1.5 6061 solid rod weighs approximately 2 lbs a foot per google. I need 30” for the front and I believe 36 or 38 for the rear. So total I’m adding approximately 20lbs of weight… grand scheme of this car doesn’t seem like a lot…
And per google 1.5x.120 tubing weighs 1.77 lbs per foot. Splitting hairs here
And maybe someone will correct me but I feel the solid aluminum is less likely to dent over just another piece of tubing which is the main goal.
Chromoly even feels dumber as I have no way to heat treat and my tig skills are no where near acceptable to think about doing them
I have 2x.25 lowers on my crawler now and they’re pretty bent. But they are also a lot longer than these. The solid aluminum should just provide more resistance to bending. A hard enough hit will bend or destroy anything though
Sliders will probably get the 1.5 aluminum shoved inside of it and lower links will get aluminum sleeved as well
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YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I mean you're building a race car, ordering a stick of Dom for your links doesn't seem like a crazy idea.
Then what's the point of aluminum in a link? You're not going to dent 2x250, but you will bend them fairly easily.
That's my exact point, there is no wieght savings for the aluminum, so why do it.
For the sliders with lots of supports or sub frame, yes, you're right. For links, I disagree.
You can order HT chromo links from a few vendors.
I guess you'll see, but I don't believe a piece a 1.5 aluminum will do **** all for bowing a link
So exactly opposite what makes sense
Malburg114
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I think you’re missing the point behind all this so I’ll just let it go lol. Money is a factor in everything and your options cost substantially more hence why I’m doing what I’m doing.I mean you're building a race car, ordering a stick of Dom for your links doesn't seem like a crazy idea.
Then what's the point of aluminum in a link? You're not going to dent 2x250, but you will bend them fairly easily.
That's my exact point, there is no wieght savings for the aluminum, so why do it.
For the sliders with lots of supports or sub frame, yes, you're right. For links, I disagree.
You can order HT chromo links from a few vendors.
I guess you'll see, but I don't believe a piece a 1.5 aluminum will do **** all for bowing a link
So exactly opposite what makes sense
And I’ll go with years of experience from guys who have raced and built cars to survive and just my own trial and error and go from there. If it fails you can say you told me so lol.
And I edited the last post. Meant to say the sliders will get sleeved with the aluminum as I think that’ll make them the most rigid and resistant to denting. And I already bought the material lol
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
That was the whole point behind my posts.
Solid aluminum isn't cheap, probably the worst cost to strength ratio of anything I mentioned. Neither is the 2x250 wall, especially when you have to replace it every so often.
Fwiw, heat treated chromo links are around $300 ea from bent fab
HEAT TREAT CHROMOLY 4130 | BENT FABRICATION HEAT TREAT CHROMOLY 4130 | BENT FABRICATION
Last time I was on the trail staring at a buggy with a broken 2" aluminum link. The guy who races the 1uz powered 4500 rig was saying how he doesn't understand why everyone doesn't use ht chromo. He said he had, 3 or 4 koh, plus whatever other wheelin and they were still basically new. It's also lighter than anything else that actually holds up.
I'm not saying slugging sliders and subframe with aluminum won't resist dents, just that wieght and coat wise it's dumb imo.
Doubt you would dent 1 3/4 250 wall or 120+120 either. If you did, it would be extremely minor. And be lighter and probably cheaper than buying both dom and aluminum.
I would also like to hear from someone who was bending 2x250 links and made a new set slugged with aluminum that held up.
Malburg114
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My cost per link with 2x.25 with aluminum sleeve and 2 bungs is 86 dollars roughly.
Plenty of threads on the rock buggy page on Facebook about people upgrading with good results.
Malburg114
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knocked out two more swing arm extensions for the rears. Feel my tig is getting better but still a little shakey on some of them. I’ll do a second pass on them tomorrow since they were to hot tonight.
Driver front sway bar will get a small bend to clear the panhard and I made the extensions a 1/4 longer to account for the bend.
Driver front sway bar will get a small bend to clear the panhard and I made the extensions a 1/4 longer to account for the bend.
Malburg114
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Lower links done. Sleeved and wrench flats milled and plug welded. Capped a bunch of tubes. Sleeved and capped the sliders. Bent the sway bar but waiting on heims. Started on the winch plate.
Winch needed to be raised an inch to clear the steering box. Used some 1x1 rectangle and sleeved with some 3/4 dom. Tig welded and then ground smooth. Come up was nice enough to send me one of their competition and air free spool attachments. Works like an arb from the quick test I did. Add air and winch spools freely. Release air and it’s locked in and can winch in or out. Super happy with it
Winch needed to be raised an inch to clear the steering box. Used some 1x1 rectangle and sleeved with some 3/4 dom. Tig welded and then ground smooth. Come up was nice enough to send me one of their competition and air free spool attachments. Works like an arb from the quick test I did. Add air and winch spools freely. Release air and it’s locked in and can winch in or out. Super happy with it
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Did you run another bead over all these tacks?
If not you absolutely should. That string of tacks doesn't have any real penetration. Quick zaps with the MIG are very cold and have little to no penetration. The center of may have some, but the perimeter will have none.
If you were to cut that joint open and etch it, it would look like this. The red dots are where you would have a little penetration. Between the dots you'd have none.
I'd crank up the machine and run a proper weld right over the top of that. Or you can hit it with a flap wheel and re-weld it. Or clean it up and TIG it. Point being, you need to add more weld to that.
Lots of things wouldn't matter, but a suspension link isn't one of them.
If not you absolutely should. That string of tacks doesn't have any real penetration. Quick zaps with the MIG are very cold and have little to no penetration. The center of may have some, but the perimeter will have none.
If you were to cut that joint open and etch it, it would look like this. The red dots are where you would have a little penetration. Between the dots you'd have none.
I'd crank up the machine and run a proper weld right over the top of that. Or you can hit it with a flap wheel and re-weld it. Or clean it up and TIG it. Point being, you need to add more weld to that.
Lots of things wouldn't matter, but a suspension link isn't one of them.
