1976 F100 street machine

Pondering use of the exhaust crossover (heads have no provisions) as a crank case vent, suction side into plenum. Drill some holes in the bottom, and a hole in the choke stove block-off plate for PCV valve. Could stuff the passage with some steel wool or other type of metal mesh to make a crude vapor separator/filter.

WiscoF100, is a PCV, aka check valve even needed? I assume it's for a backfire. Can I just plumb CC into intake?
 
Clever approach to stealth ventilation. I’d draw CC from opposite side of choke stove location and stuff away with mesh as you described 👍

I don’t see any harm no check valve, I’m not concerned with one. (most old school fittings are very crude….don’t have P/N handy to reference but the weight inside is far from positive seal)
 
I can't find it now but there was a guy that was refurbing motorcycle cases with some sort of cast aluminum paint, I think it might be this stuff can't confirm.

I'm still going to look some more.

www.seymourpaint.com

Alumi-Blast–Automotive Aluminum Spray Paint (12 oz) - Seymour Paint

Seymour of Sycamore’s Alumi-Blast specialty coating is a professional-grade aluminum coating paint specifically formulated to restore aluminum surfaces.
www.seymourpaint.com www.seymourpaint.com

but I think it might be this one

www.eastwood.com

Dupli-Color Engine Paint with CERAMIC Cast Coat Aluminum Aerosol 12 OZ DE1650

Engine Enamel with Ceramic Cast Coat Aluminum Aerosol - 12 oz.
www.eastwood.com www.eastwood.com
 
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Decided to try to no-holes in valve covers so started modifying the mech fuel pump block-off for a fresh air inlet. I had some leftover 6AN to 5/16 IF fittings that are 1/2-20 thread, so welded a nut on the back of the plate.
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Added a baffle so prevent oil slung off the timing chain going into hose. At WOT the airflow direction is out and don't want it puking oil into air filter.
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For the air cleaner base I removed the 5/8 tube and put another of the same AN fitting.
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Didn't make much progress on intake, but I did manage to make one decision on where to drill and tap one hole. The stove cover seemed like natural choice, but considered the other side as well. The trans kickdown linkage is in that area so compromised and put it next to stove so it and nitrous rail are independent of one another. Then stuck on what to do with vac port on the carb. Probably delete, plug.
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Cut off three of the five mounting bosses to make room for another fitting into the 1/2 of 1/2 plenum area. After machining I sand blasted the cut areas to make it blend in. Shortened the 1/4NPT side of 6AN fitting so it doesn't protrude into the runner much.
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Drilled a pair of 1/4" holes in the lowest point of the exhaust crossover to drain properly. The holes are on opposite side as the AN fitting so the vapor has to transverse the cavity.
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Which is stuffed with brass mesh.
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Cheap AN suction line from crossover to plenum. I could add a check valve, there are 6AN flavors in addition to barb. Or I could hog out the 1/4NPT on crossover to 3/4" and put a normal PCV valve in. I bought a new PCV valve and it sometimes it will block backflow, not very well.
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Use of the AN hose could be skipped with just drilling a hole from plenum wall or floor into the exhaust crossover. Or just a hole from CC to Plenum and skip the crossover.

Cheap 6AN hose for fresh air inlet. Good AN hose has become really expensive.
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You’re on track with what you’ve executed already. Exactly what I was trying to describe concerning inlet/outlet of the exhaust Xover

I strongly discourage you from sourcing a constant vacuum port from a single runner. It will cause that hole to burn lean! You’ll probably be okayish since the pcv fitting is currently split between the 4-7 runners. Watch those plugs.

Plenum floor into the crossover is also a bad idea. Fuel puddles on the floor.

Back flow really isn’t an issue. Are you concerned about the flame? CC contamination?

Car show mouth breathers are gonna trip when they see the CC fresh air tube. First glance looks like it plumbs to the fuel bowl 🤣
 
WiscoF100 said:
I strongly discourage you from sourcing a constant vacuum port from a single runner. It will cause that hole to burn lean! You’ll probably be okayish since the pcv fitting is currently split between the 4-7 runners. Watch those plugs.

Back flow really isn’t an issue. Are you concerned about the flame? CC contamination?
Click to expand...
This thread has already gone down that path, but yes a single runner is not ideal. but it works fine and that hole/plug isn't lean.
It's where Edelbrock put it. Not that that is correct or good. My 460 is the same, and has no lean plug either. It depends.

The new AN fitting is in the cavity (aka plemun) that is open from the fitting up to the carb flange. It's about as good as anywhere you can get with a dual plane intake, so a 1/2 of a 1/2 as I mentioned. The suction side of the CCV can also be restricted easily to control the amount of 'air leak'.

The only real solution I see is to go forward with a 408 short block and run a nasty cam and single plane manifold. Lots of nitrous.
 
Pulled the trans pan and made a big mess as usual. But not next time. Went 3/8 MPT so I can use a coolant temp sensor as a plug.
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When weldment needs to be leak free, it's helpful to look at the back side. The area between the bung and pan rail was hard to get to and cold. But it doesn't leak.
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Installed a new filter. There was minimal clutch material in the bottom of the pan.
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Pulled the trans tailshaft off to replace the output bushing.
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I'm hoping that a new bushing will solve the leak at the tailshaft, even though it has a new seal. The driveshaft exiting while driving couldn't have been a good thing.
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Press for the win
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Another new seal. I smoothed the casting on the end so it seals better to a cover/plug.
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Bought a cheap engine leveler. Needed some modifications. Added some thrust washers and tightened up the jack screw.
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Cut the angle off the rear mounts
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But the added gear prevented the lift from going high enough. So had to set motor back down and shorten up the chains. Luckily I had an old tire to set the motor on.
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So.... Looking into a different type of PS pump. Something small, lightweight. Integral reservoir. Left side mount. Work with a V-belt pulley.

Maybe something like this? Output points up.
www.summitracing.com

Lares Corporation 2758 Lares Remanufactured Power Steering Pumps | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Lares Remanufactured Power Steering Pumps with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Power Steering Pumps at Summit Racing.
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www.summitracing.com

March Performance P2304 March Performance Power Steering Pumps | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - March Performance Power Steering Pumps with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Power Steering Pumps at Summit Racing.
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Not as cheap, but cheaper end for aluminum body stuff.

Edit: whole hog and go with remote reservoir would be pretty ***s, then mount reservoir in an easier to access out of the way place

www.summitracing.com

Allstar Performance ALL48250 Allstar Performance Power Steering Pumps with Pulley | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Allstar Performance Power Steering Pumps with Pulley with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Power Steering Pumps at Summit Racing.
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I've done several Saginaw pumps swaps. easy to mod for big tires. But this application doesn't need that, and the Sag unit is dated and physically large.

Ford has modern pumps too, odd mounting. None list the shaft size for pulleys, but with a lathe I can make something work.

The remote reservoir can look cool, but it is more complicated and clutter. Not really good place to hide it.
 
With driveshaft out, and new tail bushing, I figured it was a good time to replace the forward u-joint. Unfortunately it is a 1330 not a 1310 as the axle end joint. Fine, but ****. I'm fairly sure this shaft was made when the 351W went in. Half assed adapter like the wiring and the rest. Had I known this I would have taken a different path in modifying the shaft. I'd have gone with a 1330 yolk on 9" and bought a 1330 tube end and welded that in to shorten the shaft instead of sleeving.
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I actually read the package the retainers come in. Different thickness.. no ****. how much? 0.003. Says use copper, but none are that color. Fine the middle one. :flipoff2:
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Temp sensor wired up.
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6AN cooler lines. 1/4 straight pipe threads on trans side.
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Cooler side is 5/8 fine thread inverted flare. But why use soft lines? Especially with exhaust, OEM was steel. The OEM lines were pre-****ed up. Replacing them in 5/16 was more money in tube than cheap 6AN kit with fittings. Had to get the lines out of the way for the headers, done fighting that ****. And a flexy AN style dipstick.
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Went outside frame near headers to minimize heat transfer.
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Everything back together.
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I bought 3 colors darker of blue vinyl and recut the stickers. Covers are smooth...
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Found a molded 90* hose to complete the bypass bypass. System has full flow through the heater loop at all times. I lost the mechanical temp sender fitting and had to use the larger 1/2 size. Turnouts out I have two 1/2 but no 3/8. too sloppy and disorganized... the little things.
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Before I put oil in, test the coolant system for leaks with compress air. It does. ****. block to timing cover. Using the thin steel/rubber gasket with RTV on both sides. So back apart it comes, at least clean and empty.
 
I was able to resolve the coolant leak fairly easily. Pan easy to drop down far enough. Went with a typical fiber timing gasket, I think the Cometic steel/rubber deal was just too thin, hardly any rubber to make up for surface imperfections. Seemed like I used enough RTV but no go.

Sadly I have the 'old' because I was baffled how local Autozone didn't have a SBF timing gasket, nor O'Reilly's. Had to drive to another store. Only one kit in burb of 300k peeps. but out of production for 25 ish years.
 
Cheap trans dipstick works but needed some help. The o-rings were too small and didn't stay in place on trans casting. Found some that worked well enough. The HVAC box makes for a more difficult solution on the top end. I made a single hole bracket to work with the evap cover.
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Clocked the setup to put the hose out of the way of the headers. The rigid dipstick and hard cooler line interfered with header in/out.
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The 3AN oil pressure gauge line wasn't really long enough, so I bought a kit of 3AN teflon hose/fittings. Black would be better but not available at the time. So Army/Navy colors. Now I can make up my own custom hose assemblies. Next is nitrous purge when I can decide on how to do it.
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Fluids. Expensive. Since trans fluid was new, I put that **** back in. The dipstick came with an odd fitting and 3" of clear hose. No documentation. Assume it was for filling, it fit poorly so a fail. I machined an o-ring groove in the fitting on the lathe and found a suitable o-ring for a proper seal. Then was able to siphon the fluid back in. Which came back out on the floor. I used the transmission's rubber pan gasket dry and was leaking all around. I had hammered all the bolt holes back flat on the pan and didn't over torque to cause again. But the bolts needed to be fairly tight to not leak.
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Cam break-in is stressful. There are many way to argue about. I do it this way:
  • Make sure no leaks. Coolant, oil, trans fluid. Distilled water in cooling system, because murphy's law.
  • Use real break in oil, driven BR30. Same price as other hot rod oils.
  • Set idle screw in to prevent idle on fire up.
  • Disable vac advance on distributor, plug hose.
  • Pre-wire timing light, paint marks on balancer.
  • Pre-lube oil system right before startup. Minimal amount. Get air out of the system, verify pressure. Don't want to wash the assembly lube off the cam. I use an old Dizzy modified for the purpose.
  • Set crankshaft at 12*TDC compression, and place dizzy rotor just CW of Plug #1 on cap.
  • Prime fuel system and put a few shots down the carb. Have fire extinguisher (and/or beer) handy. And hearing protection.
Then fire, set engine speed 2-2.5k, timing to 20-30*. Enjoy the anxiety and piss off the neighborhood for 20 min. What can go wrong?

Then idle down and set base timing, plug in vac advance, reset idle speed and get to hear the new idle.

All went well as far as I can tell. All 8 primary header tubes were slightly glowing red. Hood on roof so didn't drive it, just a burnout. Sound is louder, sharper. Throttle crack is holy **** now.

Next step is to address the items needed for road test, seat rings. Then tune the carb with wideband.
 
I drove the truck around the 'hood yesterday. Surprised at how much louder it is with same exhaust. Wicked, mean and nasty. Idle sounds off. Some hesitation from stop. The converter seems to lock up at about 2300.

I put the timing light back on and below 2000 rpm it has a terrible mis-fire. Timing light cannot resolve the balancer marks at all. Above 2k everything is solid and sounds healthy. Timing is as expected. Removing vac advance at idle will drop RPM and stall out. Won't run on base timing (10*).

The ignition system is the same as before, DSII, except I re-worked the ****ed-over harness. I believe it was mis-wired. Some ****-nut cut the connector off and used crimps that can go anywhere. The harness is spliced and none of the wire colors on either end correlate to a 76 pickup. The box side connector is broken and will go either way. It has a 'brown' DSII box. I traced schematics and plugs for hours and rewired to what I think is correct. I think before one side of the pickup was connected to ground. Technically this should still work, as the pickup coil/reluctor will still make the same current regardless. Guess I should have waited until it was running again.

What causes ignition to misfire only at low rpm?
 
Could be something as simple as a plug wire. Check coil and wiring as you already noted.
 
Ya, I'm overlooking something....

Plug wires are all new. Coil wiring is all replaced.
New spark plugs of different type for new heads. I think I measure gap at 0.041, and checked/gapped all 8.
Cold or warmed up same behavior.
Charged battery, alternator is working 14+ volts running.
 
Moar cow bell? I mean advance? Heat gun on primaries?

Observed the charging system idle and 2k?

It’ll come to you in your sleep in a day or two
 
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