Build Tacoma 4500 build

Finished welding the radiator mount. There’s two neighbor hood kids that asked to learn to weld and fabricate so they’ve come over a few days. Told them I’d save the wing for them to practice welding on since it’ll get ground smooth and blended. Finished the rear bumpstops and some other welding including the strike pad for the bumps. They are a little narrow so I’ll add another piece.
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Been practicing tig welding. Torch angle is the main thing I feel I have issue with which is causing me to have issues with the filler rod and moving to slow. Had lots of good suggestions and no shame in posting. Decent progress for just 3-4 hours of practice.

First picture is some of the first one. Second set of coupons are after some suggestions. 3rd set is 3/16 to .120 wall tubing. I struggled with that and the heat and filler.
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Suggestions for making this filler plate have a 45 degree tube out to the left or right? It’s an rci wedge tank and the other plate they sell with a 45 degree filler is straight out the front or back and I need it out the side. Ill measure the threads but ideally find a female bung and weld a tube to it to clamp a clear fuel hose to run out the extra cab window.

Also looking for suggestions on a gas cap/filler neck that doesn’t cost a fortune. Everything’s that’s 2 1/2 id (same as the neck on the cell) is significantly more.

I can make the brackets to hold it a mounting flange. Just need the cap and the neck of some sort with a 2 1/2 od. Not sure if I should do 1/4 turn or just run a threaded cap.

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What dimensions is the fill plate you have?

You should be able to get a fill plate that takes bolt on fill necks which you can clock in any direction you want.

And yes, for some ******ed reason, these parts in particular cost way more than you'd think they should.
 
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probably not in the scope of the race project but if theres pipe threads for that cap on the filler could you thread on stainless 45* and a big ass hose barb?
 
gt1guy said:
What dimensions is the fill plat you have?

You should be able to get a fill plate that takes bolt on fill necks which you can clock in any direction you want.

And yes, for some ******ed reason, these parts in particular cost way more than you'd think they should.
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I’ll have to measure but it’s different from jaz I think from reading online.

wvracer821 said:
probably not in the scope of the race project but if theres pipe threads for that cap on the filler could you thread on stainless 45* and a big ass hose barb?
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This is what I was thinking or getting a female bung and welding a piece of tubing to it to thread on and off at the desired angle

mobil1syn said:
sounds like a perfect project to practice you tig welding.

use exhaust tubing
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That was the plan. What size tubing should I use? Taper it down to 2”? 2 1/4 seems common as well. Or stay with 2 1/2
 
Unbolt the center, cut the current filler neck off close to plate, weld your exhaust tubing to the correct angle then weld the old filler bung\cap back on the end? I would keep the tube same all the way down so whatever diameter your current neck is, if 2.25" slide in it decent go with that or if 2.5" slides over it tight go with that. I would just think that sleeving it inside the existing tube down near the base would be easier to then weld around the old neck. This all sounded much better in my head so I hope it makes some sense.
 
350TacoZilla said:
Unbolt the center, cut the current filler neck off close to plate, weld your exhaust tubing to the correct angle then weld the old filler bung\cap back on the end? I would keep the tube same all the way down so whatever diameter your current neck is, if 2.25" slide in it decent go with that or if 2.5" slides over it tight go with that. I would just think that sleeving it inside the existing tube down near the base would be easier to then weld around the old neck. This all sounded much better in my head so I hope it makes some sense.
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I think to start I’ll see if I can find a threaded 22.5 or 45* pipe fitting so there’s no cutting/welding on the actual plate and weld on a nipple essentially to clamp a clear tube to. It’s a 2.5” opening so then I’ll get some 2.5” clear Id tube to go from the nipple and some 2.5” exhaust tubing with a either a 1/4 turn gas cap or just reuse the gas cap that came on the plate if I can find a male threaded bung.

If I can’t find any of that I’ll cut the threaded portion off the plate like you described and weld a piece of exhaust tubing to the plate at the angle I want.
 
Malburg114 said:
That was the plan. What size tubing should I use? Taper it down to 2”? 2 1/4 seems common as well. Or stay with 2 1/2
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Tubing size doesn't really matter, but make sure you get a 2.5" filler. On the old car I went with 2 1/4" to save a few dollars, and now all of the standard dump cans don't fit into my car. Sucks not being able to share fueling equipment at races. Didn't seem like a big deal, but its a pain.
 
broken4_racing said:
Tubing size doesn't really matter, but make sure you get a 2.5" filler. On the old car I went with 2 1/4" to save a few dollars, and now all of the standard dump cans don't fit into my car. Sucks not being able to share fueling equipment at races. Didn't seem like a big deal, but its a pain.
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Good to know
 
So I emailed ultra4 asking but while I wait, anyone see an issue with the filler tube coming through the upper part of the firewall to land in the extra cab window? I’ll seal around the tube with foil tape to make it fire tight but the filler will be behind my head probably. I’m going to do filler panels in the upper portion of the b pillar as well but it’ll have mesh for air to get to the radiator.

Figure itll come out of the sheet metal below the bend closest to the c pillar. I guess I can build a shield around it as well if need be too
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Pitbullcruiser said:
Here is how my 4600 truck fuel filler is setup.
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Thats a great spot.

Off topic... Have you had any problems with your helmet pumper being mounted filter up and it ingesting water and dying? I want a new helmet pumper (rugged) for my car because the Allstar one barely gets the job done, but i have heard of more than one dying recently. One guy said he mounted his filter down and hasn't had a problem since.
 
mobil1syn said:
never ask questions to tech - read rules, reason your logic and get after it.

you thinking of putting it there?

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Correct on location. And I’ve read the rule book several times. To say it’s vague is understatement..
It just says a splash guard directing away from occupants and outside the vehicle. Probably build an air funnel or something to seal that extra cab window off from the back of the cab. Not trying to drive a couple hundred miles to get it banded and it not pass over something small like this.
 
Pitbullcruiser said:
Here is how my 4600 truck fuel filler is setup.
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This would essentially be where mine is given it’s an extra cab. I like how you did yours with the sides. Probably do something similar to fill in the extra cab window more and isolate the fill tube/cap so if there’s a splash it doesn’t go inside. And let it double as an air scoop to force air to the radiator.
 
Following, as I have the same tank - just the non wedge version. What pump are you going to use? Internal or external? I'll be going down this path in a month or so.

Also voting for moving the fill location back as far as possible.
 
fueling is nothing to compromise on. No matter how hard you try to mitigate the splashing and spills, its going to happen. especially in a race pit where everyone is scrambling. I wouldn't want that anywhere near the passenger compartment.
 
wvracer821 said:
fueling is nothing to compromise on. No matter how hard you try to mitigate the splashing and spills, its going to happen. especially in a race pit where everyone is scrambling. I wouldn't want that anywhere near the passenger compartment.
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Do you guys run remote fillers on the mods or are they filled at the cell?

Rules in paved circle track racing said if it has a remote fill it must be located on the right side of the car and mounted to the quarter panel behind the rear tire.
 
SQWRL_Command said:
Following, as I have the same tank - just the non wedge version. What pump are you going to use? Internal or external? I'll be going down this path in a month or so.

Also voting for moving the fill location back as far as possible.
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It’ll be an external pump
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Do you guys run remote fillers on the mods or are they filled at the cell?

Rules in paved circle track racing said if it has a remote fill it must be located on the right side of the car and mounted to the quarter panel behind the rear tire.
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Not my car but I helped them in the pits a few times. Bonus points for not having the filler cap a mile off the ground. Makes it a little easier to lift the jug.
 
Burning from spilt fuel is not nearly as likely as taking a gas bath when the quick dump sticks open and washes down the side of the car. At best it itches like crazy until it dries and at worst it irritates so bad it feels likes burns. Quite a few stories our there of racers getting out of the car early due to this irritation. My vote is outside the rear of the cab through the down tubes and don't run your muffler under that.
 
Motiracer38 said:
Burning from spilt fuel is not nearly as likely as taking a gas bath when the quick dump sticks open and washes down the side of the car. At best it itches like crazy until it dries and at worst it irritates so bad it feels likes burns. Quite a few stories our there of racers getting out of the car early due to this irritation. My vote is outside the rear of the cab through the down tubes and don't run your muffler under that.
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I can confirm being drenched in fuel is horrible. many years ago during a GNCC pit stop my dad over filled my bike and sloshed gas all over me. I thought my nuts where going to fall off. I had another hour to race after that and it was brutal.
 
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