• Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
  • We're moving data around, images may be off/on over the next few hours. Nothing is lost aaand no ... Nothing will Change Fo2

1976 F100 street machine

rattle_snake said:
New aluminum water pump arrived. Old pump is OK, but need lightness. I spent an extra $10 or so on a 'high volume' type. Rated at 3x the pressure, which is dependent on things other than the pump but ok marketing lingo. I have learned me that coolant pressure is important to combat seam pockets.
So what is the difference? In the case of these two the impeller has 8 blades instead of 6. The depth of the cavity is a bit more, and blades are 'taller'. So it should move more fluid per rotation.
t4O71sLe9JUIfMDSrykQ=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg


The bypass inlets are cast on this particular pump. The passages have meat below the pump cavity and I could have cut one/both off and threaded to 3/8 NPT. But then I have made a semi custom water pump. This truck isn't going to be driven outside the city and side of road parts swap is unlikely. I measured the ID at 15/32, which is almost exact drill size for 1/2-20 bolt thread, so I did that instead. Plug with set screw, but can also put a hose on it.
Vk5QJVIGgepPOX8DAZWg=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg


Good thing about working on a pickup is the built-in part storage. I'm having delusions of keeping all the old parts to be able to build and sell a mostly complete motor. only missing oil pan and valve covers, so might buy some fancy stuff for the next round.
8KBydlHkDSYVzHZW0ZOA=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg
Click to expand...
There went all our new horsepowers :flipoff2:

Your **** is always so clean of tune in to see you Sharpen lawn mower blades.
 
WiscoF100 said:
In the spirit of low budget hot rod tech, affix a cover plate on the impeller blades
Click to expand...
A round plate on the back of the blades? Have to measure the clearance to the backing plate.

CarterKraft said:
There went all our new horsepowers :flipoff2:

Your **** is always so clean of tune in to see you Sharpen lawn mower blades.
Click to expand...
pumping losses will be recovered by the engine running cooler so should add 25 hp. 30 if it was chrome.
 
The old thing was a full round plate to seal it up. Dunno what difference the ring vs full plate would make but they claimed it was a huge difference vs the stock open fins.
 
Filled up the new converter with fluid and installed it. Went right in, not sure what to think of that.
ctB9Ifhg2zb9G2cmrRZQ=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg


I unbolted the trans cross member and moved the trans back up to the firewall, so the engine can be installed without trying to connect them. I removed the janky trans cooler lines. Going to make a new set.
 
Heads called for a 1262 gasket. -S3 is the steel core version. Shows the shape of the ports being narrower at the top.
Y3p3rj2bE5_pwd3dFUI8Q=w683-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg


Cometic rubber-over-steel timing gasket. Hoping I can use this thing 'dry', except for water passage. Anyone used this gasket?
wIoFjzUWT81gmeBkM_cQ=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg
 
The engine is very close to the firewall. The bolts from the gas pedal basically touch the head. The driveshaft is barely short enough to remove. So I decided to move the engine forward 1/2" for better fitment. Had some choices, picked modifying the engine mounts. Weld holes shut drill new.
eYvGD9n8izjUyP2-ZVidQ=w683-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg


Dry fit the timing cover and water pump to test fit the fasteners, and figure out what I needed to buy. The dowels were missing, found some at hardware store. Went back to studs where brackets bolt on, to avoid gaskets seeping when bolts are loosened.
Npcjoj3Vko9DnFO2AuSvQ=w683-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg


Modified some SS bolts to replace the cheap ones the water pump came with. Heads needs to be slim to fit properly.
bN4k8osRxI06-dMIycSw=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg


Cleaned up the head bolts for re-use. The 351W uses 1/2-13. The outboard bolts has some corrosion so sand blasted them, soaked in trans fluid, chased threads, degreased and used some rust converter to make black oxide finish. Head bolts under the valve cover got cleaned and oiled.
vsg6jY9Zfm8v25hTxd9g=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg
 
started thinking about the wiring for the nitrous system. The underhood box has two relays and a fuse available, perfect.
UH3sTlauDn3SV_ezFp7bw=w683-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg


Removed the nitrous system from the 72 F250. I left the switches/wiring in place if I want to re-install. Just unplugged the engine harness and pulled out the relays. Sad but it will be more useful in the F100.

Started trying to figure out the fuel plumbing as the fuel log and solenoids want to be in same place.
B8xWxa-Ml6_E4E4nQTjw=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg
 
I think I have figured out the traction bar setup. Plan to use 1.25 0.120 DOM to get 1" ID so I can use off the shelf threaded inserts. 48" long. 3/4 x 3/4 rod ends. 5/8 narrow spacers on the upper to lower (pinion angle), and 9/16 wide spacers on lower link to shackle to keep bolt same as the other 3 bushings. Around $300, and I would have to make a cross member and custom shackle.

Tempting to just 4 link, but that incurs coilovers. Have to wait to build a full custom frame.
 
Since there are some crusty old timers on here, did the 73-79 medium duty trucks have additional switches or buttons on the dash? Like tow trucks or other applications with lights and whatnot.

The idea is to use something that looks like it belongs to control the nitrous. Used a 2nd windshield washer switch on the 72. SPDT + MOM. Arm, heat, purge.
 
Yea they held over bump stuff in the medium duty for awhile. Only thing I found was a cargo light switch.

One option is to use the bump WSW switch from the 72 and install it in the cigar lighter hole. Maybe change the knob to a dent radio style.

The steering wheel cruise controls used a resistor ladder logic scheme. I could make a decoder and all that, but would still need the right wheel/pad/clockspring.

Another is a custom switch panel more racecar style.
 
Puttering on the nitrous plumbing while waiting on heads and rings.
Homebrew fuel log doesn't fit well with the solenoids.
ffGIOpxF3Yg6JwIMrYhQ=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg


So trying all kinds of arrangements. When I was 5 my dad was building our new house including plumbing and so on. I would play with the plumbing fittings and put them all together in all sorts of ways.
wJ7XnoRifTgVDmAbxDaew=w683-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg


Leaning towards this. Bent up a new hard line. The soft line is temporary.
N4ZbFIq47J9ia1a7RcQg=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg


Need to add a WOT switch. The left side of the carb is already cluttered and there isn't a good place to put it. Instead use the choke side of the throttle shaft. I carefully filled out a slot to fit the shaft end.
_ISjHMfRQ_xvaJCK39QoQ=w683-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg


slimmed out the arm, paint.
AM-v33ATjQqecGKnk5Jw=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg


I was going to use one of the mounting studs to hold the switch, but the choke pedestals seemed like a cleaner solution. flipped the arm over and made a crude bracket.
hEXGzyyfWU1yNge9yem5w=w683-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg
 
Made a v2.0 of the WOT switch actuator arm. V1.0 wasn't clocked ideally and was facing outward and made the whole assembly stick out. This time I just drilled the hole large enough to test fit/clock everything, then went back and added a booger welds to make the flats. The flat recess is 0.062 and so is the sheet metal. Any grind/sanding and no longer have a pinch from fastener. Any slop in flats is a fail. So I left the welds tall to make it tight.
Qw4rDni64O2g-628XtEQ=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg


Moved and cut down the switch bracket, mounted in tight to the carb body.
IKZsYPnTbWi6ph3ubstdw=w683-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg


at WOT. Didn't want to block access to the carb flange studs/nuts
sxRcAOiEl-vNxPB45fdbA=w683-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg


Continued puttering on fuel plumbing schemes. The fuel solenoid tab broke off the rail so broke it down and re-welded. It had clearance issue with fittings, so to resolve I wasted time on lathe making a nifty spacer.
y4YRA2rK-CRJQb-fXDjQ=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg
 
I had not thought of a rail for a carb... but yes that could be a better solution. Easy enough to tap some threads and use AN fittings.

I did make a better looking primary hardline. And the blue fitting has to go. And I'm over socket head screws in general, need to get a stash of 10-32 SS. I've standardized on 10-24 and avoid 8-32 10-32.
 
Thanks man I'm not sure I have really looked closely at one. That is odd that Ford used a bump dash in a dent cab, especially since bump dash is not removable. Little different with steering column down below. Ing switch on the left like it should be.

I would like to have both of those old fords...

When I was about 8 or so my dad had a guy come do some dozer work. One my dad's coworkers wanted some work done so for whatever reason we rode in the dump truck pulling the dozer. It was a 70s MDT. There was one really steep hill to climb, 10% or better. The old Ford crawled up the hill in low gear engine working hard. Seem like it took forever.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh