Build Tacoma 4500 build

broken4_racing said:
I've been doing a lot of research on filters and there aren't a ton of good options. Ill summarize:

Umps - The largest Ump (10925) which is 10" diameter and 17" long is only able to flow enough for like 400ish HP. Most of the big cars (Campbells) run dual umps. And that isn't even considering once the filter starts getting full.

K&N Cone Style - They flow enough, but I wouldn't consider them because of how much dust and particles they let through into your engine.

I would highly suggest a paper filter as they work so much better. Spend some time going through this catalog and look at your options.

https://www.donaldson.com/content/d...0027-ENG/Air-Intake-Systems-Product-Guide.pdf

In my current 4500 car I am running a C105004 which is 10.5" Diameter and 10.5" Long. It flows 500 cfm at 6" H20 of vacuum or 620 at 8". Higher the vacuum the harder the engine works to get air. There are different ideas about what vacuum value you should use to decide your filter and I felt like 6" to 8" was reasonable. My 6.2L engine at 6500 RPM with VE of 0.9 needs 640 cfm. So this filter is slightly on the not big enough side, but I couldn't fit any bigger.

On the new car, I am planning to go to a powercore filter which flows a lot more, with a lot smaller filters. These are the style of filters that the duramax and powerstroke use. Donaldson makes some really nice housings that even have centrifugal pre filters to remove like 70-80% of the dust from the air before it even reaches the filter. These are a little pricy for me, so I am probably going to use a powerstroke filter and add a precleaner. I have already been working on the design of it and have been putting it through some fluid dynamics programs to see if it will flow enough. My goal is 6" or shorter for the centrifugal filter.

Donaldson doesn't advertise the flow of the duramax and powerstroke filters, but I used the other powercore filters that they have information posted for and created some spreadsheets and charts to estimate what they can flow based on area and volume of the filter. Based on my estimations, the powerstroke filter should flow 684 CFM at 6" or 777 CFM at 8". So plenty of flow, as well as an off the shelf filter that any parts house should have. I will need to make adapters for either side of the filter, but that shouldn't be too hard.
Click to expand...
Can you post any links to the filters your looking at? I need ideas also.

Its funny when you look at the UMP filters and Shannon is running two of them, then look at a stock powerstroke truck and see how small that filter really is. Like most, I don't have a ton of room, luckily also not a big motor making big power either, so something smaller should work.
 
Ghetto Fab. said:
Can you post any links to the filters your looking at? I need ideas also.

Its funny when you look at the UMP filters and Shannon is running two of them, then look at a stock powerstroke truck and see how small that filter really is. Like most, I don't have a ton of room, luckily also not a big motor making big power either, so something smaller should work.
Click to expand...
I've looked at pretty well every filter in that catalog haha

The powercore housings with the pre filter I was referring to are the PSD series. PowerCore® PSD Cleaner | Donaldson Engine & Vehicle

There are a large variety of size, flow, orientation etc.

The powerstroke 6.0 filter would be P603577. I will either take the stock plastic pieces that attach to the filter and modify them or I might just 3D print new ones.
 
broken4_racing said:
I've been doing a lot of research on filters and there aren't a ton of good options. Ill summarize:

Umps - The largest Ump (10925) which is 10" diameter and 17" long is only able to flow enough for like 400ish HP. Most of the big cars (Campbells) run dual umps. And that isn't even considering once the filter starts getting full.

K&N Cone Style - They flow enough, but I wouldn't consider them because of how much dust and particles they let through into your engine.

I would highly suggest a paper filter as they work so much better. Spend some time going through this catalog and look at your options.

https://www.donaldson.com/content/d...0027-ENG/Air-Intake-Systems-Product-Guide.pdf

In my current 4500 car I am running a C105004 which is 10.5" Diameter and 10.5" Long. It flows 500 cfm at 6" H20 of vacuum or 620 at 8". Higher the vacuum the harder the engine works to get air. There are different ideas about what vacuum value you should use to decide your filter and I felt like 6" to 8" was reasonable. My 6.2L engine at 6500 RPM with VE of 0.9 needs 640 cfm. So this filter is slightly on the not big enough side, but I couldn't fit any bigger.

On the new car, I am planning to go to a powercore filter which flows a lot more, with a lot smaller filters. These are the style of filters that the duramax and powerstroke use. Donaldson makes some really nice housings that even have centrifugal pre filters to remove like 70-80% of the dust from the air before it even reaches the filter. These are a little pricy for me, so I am probably going to use a powerstroke filter and add a precleaner. I have already been working on the design of it and have been putting it through some fluid dynamics programs to see if it will flow enough. My goal is 6" or shorter for the centrifugal filter.

Donaldson doesn't advertise the flow of the duramax and powerstroke filters, but I used the other powercore filters that they have information posted for and created some spreadsheets and charts to estimate what they can flow based on area and volume of the filter. Based on my estimations, the powerstroke filter should flow 684 CFM at 6" or 777 CFM at 8". So plenty of flow, as well as an off the shelf filter that any parts house should have. I will need to make adapters for either side of the filter, but that shouldn't be too hard.
Click to expand...
Thanks this is good info. I’ve got some reading to do
 
I may be doing the math wrong, but I believe I need 485 cfm flow filter for the 5.3/323 ci ls at 6500 rpm (that’s the high end, probably only be 5800-6k rpm max). Seems the Donaldson duralite c105004 would be sufficient for my application but I also found a slightly larger one, c125004 which flows a little better.

At first thinking about it, I didn’t like the thought of just a throw away filter/housing and replacing it every race and went through Donaldson catalog and while something with a housing and replaceable or washable filter would be nice, they are anywhere from 5-800 dollars for the housing and then filter costs. The c105004 is 85 bucks each and the c125004 is around 125 bucks which seems like the better route to go and just replace it before major races and just have a spare in the pit.

Thoughts? Wanting to order one before I mount the trans and power steering cooler under the hood to make sure I leave room for the filter.
 
06 duramax wix drop in. dunno why you need to highlight it to see numbers


Cubic Feet Per Minute Rating792 CF
Dimensions - Height6.275 in
Duty TypeHD
Inner Diameter TopClosed
Media MaterialCellulose
Outer Diameter Bottom8.917 in
Outer Diameter Top8.917 in
StyleCorrugated Style Air Filte

[th]
WIX 49184 Specifications

[/th]​
 
350TacoZilla said:
06 duramax wix drop in. dunno why you need to highlight it to see numbers


Cubic Feet Per Minute Rating792 CF
Dimensions - Height6.275 in
Duty TypeHD
Inner Diameter TopClosed
Media MaterialCellulose
Outer Diameter Bottom8.917 in
Outer Diameter Top8.917 in
StyleCorrugated Style Air Filte

[th]
WIX 49184 Specifications

[/th]​
Click to expand...
I looked into this one as well. But because that cfm rating does have the vacuum at which it is rated, I couldn't really trust that. According to my estimates based on the other powercore filters, I have that filter at 647 CFM at 10" of vacuum. vs the powerstroke is at 915 at 10" of vacuum.
 
Got ya, I looked into the van duramax filter too because I remember the housing being different shape but couldn't find any advertised cfm ratings for them. personally either setup that fits your area better would probably work, especially if your going to grab extras and throw a new one in each time.
 
More sheet metal. Pretty happy overall with it.
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So its not like me to do this but to help make my goal of King of the Hammers 2026 (really need to make it to Norcal Joker race in September or the finale in Laughlin in October to qualify), Ive put together a few shirts, hats and sweatshirts people can purchase. Hoping to do a final shirt later on with all the companies and people who helped out and send out some stickers if you buy something. I bought a few samples and they all turned out nice so the link to the page is listed below. I appreciate any and all support to complete this build and meet my crazy goal.

hambone-fab-works.printify.me

Discover Our Exclusive Range at Hambone Fab Works

Store of Hambone Fab Works.
hambone-fab-works.printify.me hambone-fab-works.printify.me

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Made some tabs out of 1/8 with 1/4-20 stainless press in nutserts. Called for a 3/8 hole which I did but some push out so I put a tac on them. Starting tabbing out the panels which is a lot of work but got most the driver side panels done. I made 24 tabs and only have 5 or 6 left. Pretty happy with the look
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And got the firewall done behind the seats. I think I have all the panels cut and bead rolled. Only other ones I know for sure I want to do is in the top of the b pillar but I want to bead rolled and cut the middle out to add mesh to keep rocks out of the radiator.
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ill have to look back to find the post but HYDRODYNAMIC posted some air filter data in his dust buggy thread a while back. IIRC he ended up with a fleetguard housing of some sort

Edit: Found it
HYDRODYNAMIC

Post in thread 'Dust Buggy'

The air filter and mass air flow sensor are in.
More and more racers are dumping their small K&N filters for high tech filtration because larger filters can hold more dust before dropping CFM and they keep the dirt out of the engines. The filter housing is a Fleetguard OptiAir 1000 with a Primary and Secondary filter and a 4.5" outlet. It is rated at 507 CFM when only running the Primary filter and 411 CFM when running both the Primary and Secondary. I run both filters for maximum filtration. Keep in mind these are industrial ratings for engines running in dusty and silty conditions and...
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Last edited:
You're making quick work on the panels! ... Do you have a "table" set-up on your bead roller? Any tips/tricks for those about to dive in?

Thanks!
 
wvracer821 said:
ill have to look back to find the post but HYDRODYNAMIC posted some air filter data in his dust buggy thread a while back. IIRC he ended up with a fleetguard housing of some sort

Edit: Found it
HYDRODYNAMIC

Post in thread 'Dust Buggy'

The air filter and mass air flow sensor are in.
More and more racers are dumping their small K&N filters for high tech filtration because larger filters can hold more dust before dropping CFM and they keep the dirt out of the engines. The filter housing is a Fleetguard OptiAir 1000 with a Primary and Secondary filter and a 4.5" outlet. It is rated at 507 CFM when only running the Primary filter and 411 CFM when running both the Primary and Secondary. I run both filters for maximum filtration. Keep in mind these are industrial ratings for engines running in dusty and silty conditions and...
  • Like
Click to expand...
I read his a few times and pretty much wrote it off cause of the cost of the Donaldson ones but after looking it up, the filter housing is around 150 which isn’t bad. I already ordered a Donaldson I linked above so I’ll see if that fits and if it doesn’t I’ll look back into this. Thanks for posting that as it gives me another option.
 
GiS said:
You're making quick work on the panels! ... Do you have a "table" set-up on your bead roller? Any tips/tricks for those about to dive in?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
No it’s just a manual Woodward fab bead roller (cheapest one) that I put a steering wheel on. No table and I never reinforced it and it works well. All these panels are 18 gauge. I made a stand last year. It came with all the dies. I wish it had a motor and I may retrofit something as the motor conversions are now 500 ish bucks. For the few panels I do a year it works fine. I get the wife ro turn the wheel on the big panels and then I turn the corners.

For tips I just keep the design simple. Throw a 2” wide framing square on the edge of the panel and that’s how I mark out my line. Use a circle to mark the turns (I normally use a piece of 3.5” axle tube). I only do a single pass and not to tight on the dies as I’ve cut the metal. I’m far from good at it but I think it looks good and adds w lot of strength.

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My dad’s here for a few days and we are getting things done. Steering is in minus one link between 2 u joints. Also got the brake pedal mounted. Few more tubes in the rear. Didn’t like the summit radiator I got so holding off on mounting that while I wait for a griffin one to show up. Got the power steering cooler mounted in the front as well.
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got more stuff done before my dad left. We got the trans cooler in. He got a bunch of tube in the rear and I got the gas pedal in and fit a few tubes in the subframe to brace the upper rear links. Minus an upper tube for the radiator and a lower tube over the tire, and some gussets in the front engine cage, between the roof bar and a pillar, and between the rear upper shock mounts, I think the tube work is done. The tubes sticking up off the rear near where rhe axle bumps are to keep the tire from sliding forward. There’s one set of dead tubes where the rear axle bumps but didn’t have much of a choice. Axle bumps so high it screwed up my plans to run them to the center under the fuel cell.

Overall happy with all the work. The air filter is way bigger than I expected so it’ll mount between the seats. Just need to find some 4” tube that’s reasonably priced. Ill end up making a dash that comes towards me as everything is to far to reach switch panel wise.

A lot of work left but feeling like I’m getting a lot done. Going to focus on finishing the gussets and tubes so all I have left after that is bumpers. I’ll cap everything that needs capped and then probably move onto a dash.
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Think I got the last of the tubes in the rear and the rear bumper done. The interwebs told me the bumpstops would rip out of the frame so ran two tubes down that the bump can will weld to the back of.

Few other gusset tubes and some side pieces around the tire to give it a more complete look and a rear bumper. A 37 should sit just inside of it. It’s kicked up about 8*

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Welded out the rear of the truck the best I could. I’m hoping when the body comes off I can roll it on the sides to do the bottoms instead of laying on my back. Got everything capped and got the radius tube gussets I want in on the back and front and got the ones for in the cab cut but I’ll wait till I weld all that out. And then milled the wilwood calipers ears to center the rotor.
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This bolt got cut shorter after the picture.
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That turned out beautiful. I would add some rubber bushings to the upper and lower mounts though. The vibration and shock loads will eventually crack the tanks.
 
1Sinner said:
That turned out beautiful. I would add some rubber bushings to the upper and lower mounts though. The vibration and shock loads will eventually crack the tanks.
Click to expand...
I’ll either shove some rubber mat between the top and bottom plates or just put a delrin bushing between the tabs on top. Haven’t really decided what’s best. Not much room left to add stuff.
 
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