Build 304 Hauler - 2019 Fuel 335 - 41.5' 5th Wheel- 24V Tesla Batteries, Victron, Onan, Solar...

Diablo169

Diablo169

ROKRAPR
Joined
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Santa Cruz, CA
This thread is going to highlight what I have done to my 2019 Heartland Fuel 335 Toy Hauler. Basically, a place for me to remember what I did, and so I can reference if I have any issues :laughing:

I have been renting toy haulers for about 8 years now mostly for KOH. in 2019 I purchased a RZR Turbo 4 S, and at 12' 8" it became harder and harder to find a rental toy hauler that it could fit in. Fast forward to October 24' and I couldn't find a single rental toy hauler that could fit my RZR for the upcoming 2025 KOH. So it was time to start looking to purchase. I was looking anywhere from new $150K Momentums to $80k used race trailers, also avoiding anything built during covid. Randomly I found this Fuel listed at RVMax in Loomis and the picks looked really clean, but they can be deceiving. I had a work meeting up in Sac and after the meeting I drove up to Loomis to take a look. To my surprise it was in like new condition, tires were dated 2019, but still had the stickers on them. 5,500 Onan only had 86hrs on it. Not a scratch on the interior. The price was recently dropped to $39K. SOLD. RVMax was absolutely excellent to work with. Zero fees and no PDI, $39k +tax and that was it. Pretty crazy the MSRP in 2019 was $86K

Main Specs on the trailer. 41.5', dual slides, 13' garage (yes, tight for the 4 seater) Onan 5,500, Auto Leveling, Rear Door Deck, 30gal Fuel Station. Dual 7K Axles

I have done a lot to it since purchasing, I will keep adding posts to catch up to where it is now.

Here is the first picture when I picked it up. One of the few purchases I have not had the slightest bit of buyers remorse.

Toy Hauler.jpg


First test run, Thousand Trails Manteca.
IMG_6160.jpeg
 
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Second attempt posting these pics. At a Thousand Trails in Yosemite and Star Link is coming off a nation wide back out. Last night 13mbps, today 328mbps. So much improved.

GF got excited to decorate the toy hauler so it was like a week of constant packages showing up. I’ll say she did a good job. Feels pretty homey.

IMG_6111.jpeg


Pretty good space, tables are like from a boat, they have the post that stick into the ground and the tables pop down on top. GF wants to throw them away 😆

IMG_7773.jpeg


Got to have the coffee bar.

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New 55” Roku TV and swivel mount.

IMG_7778.jpeg


Why is this sideways?

IMG_7779.jpeg


This is where 32 seconds of fury takes place.

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Some closet space.

IMG_7781.jpeg


Why’s the bathroom pic side ways?

IMG_7782.jpeg
 
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One of the first issues I had I believe started on my initial trip back to the South Bay on 680. I tow pretty fast and there were some massive pot holes and huge bangs I felt from the horrible condition of 680 in general. The first few trips I had it out, the Auto Leveling would alarm and not level, very frustrating. Later I was parked in a level parking lot and noticed the trailer was leaning heavily to the passenger side. Tape measure showed it was leaning about 3 1/2".

I crawled under it, and saw that both Leaf packs on the passenger side were bent, and that the top of the U-Bolts had been smashing into the frame. That sucked and was not a repair I was looking to make a week before KOH.

IMG_6548.jpeg


IMG_6552.jpeg


After getting on a few forums I found out Lippert uses very cheap springs, and that mine were 6-Leaf and rated 3,500lbs each. At this point I went all in and decided to fully rebuild the suspension.

I Purchased:

Dexter 4,000lb 7-Leaf Springs $216ea
MORryde CRE-3000 8K Shock Absorbing Equalizers $189
MORryde Wet Bolt Kit with Aluminum Shackles $114
9/16 HD U-Bolts and Spring Plates (Amazon) $100
4 HD GM Bump Stops (Amazon) $32

My brother-in-law and my brother helped swap them in the storage yard, and the next trip out the trailer did great.

IMG_6612.jpeg


IMG_6611.jpeg


IMG_6596.jpeg


IMG_6620.jpeg
 
This post will be for the initial install of the Tesla Model Y Long Range Batteries. At this point I still do not have Solar installed, and I am monitoring they system with my laptop and Victron Smart Shunt.

I have several friends that have built systems for their Toy Haulers as well as battery backups for their house's and I wanted to do the same for long boondocking trips such as the KOH.

Ideally, I wanted to run a 48V system, but being that my Toy Hauler is 50amp service, I wanted to use the Victron MultiPlus-II 24V 2x120 3,000VA Power Inverter. It makes for a clean install and powers both legs of the AC Panel separately. If I ever redo the system I will go 48V and run 2 Victron 48V 3,000VA Inverters and each inverter will power 1 leg of the AC Panel. This would give almost 6,000w of power to run all the things at once. A 12V system wasn't an option in my mind as I didn't feel like running 0000 cable and deal with the excess heat produced by 12V system.

I was in a rush to build the system, so I didn't fully document everything I did. The Inverter shipped 1/25, I was bench testing on 1/29. I installed the system at 2am in an RV park in Bakerfield on 2/1, and 12pm I was on the lakebed.

Almost everything I used was BlueSea, Bussmann, Victron and high quality US made welding cable.

The system consists of:

4 Tesla Model Y Long Range 5.2KW batteries. 1,000AH at 24v (equivalent to 2,000AH at 12v, for those that can't math lol). $250ea
Victron Inverter Multiplus-II 2x120 3,000VA 24V, $1,145
Victron Lynx Power In, converted to use Mega Fuse's, $141
Victron Smart BMS, BMV-712, $152
1/0 Power/ Ground, $50
6awg wire for batteries, $50
Blue Sea Battery Disconnect, $26
Misc Pieces, ~$200-$400

This is what 4/10's of a Model Y looks like.
IMG_6629.jpeg


Inverter unboxing.
IMG_6627.jpeg


Building the system. Hours spent cutting, crimping, heat shrinking...
IMG_6630.jpeg


Built to take Mega Fuses. Each battery will only see a maximum draw of 37.5amp. The Tesla batteries are cable of short duration 1,000amp loads, pretty sure I won't have to deal with that.
IMG_6631.jpeg


I bent up some Copper Bus Bar so that I can minimize how much wire I run.
IMG_6645.jpeg


Hours spent to get to this point. Each battery will connect separately to the Power In using Anderson connectors.
IMG_6657.jpeg


IMG_6662.jpeg


A little attention to detail, I used some thick heatshrink to protect the positive bus bar.
IMG_6663.jpeg


Bench testing and setting all the parameters for the Inverter. Burning the midnight oil.
IMG_6665.jpeg
 
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Nice system. I have the same inverter in 12v flavor (240v generator onboard, so set up for 50a hookups) and it's been amazing.
 
Damn, you got a :smokin: deal on that trailer!

Ill be following along with this thread. I want to put a solar system on my race trailer at some point.
 
Next I had to figure out where I was going to mount everything. At first I wanted to use the small space to the left of the generator, but I figured it was too small.

After pulling some panels to the left of the storage area, I found a place I could rearrange some things to make space for everything.

I had to slightly move the Water Pump, Transfer Switch and relocate the Converter. This gave ample space to mount everything.

Everything is mounted to the left of the storage area
IMG_6259.jpeg


This is before moving everything.
IMG_6288.jpeg

IMG_6570.jpeg


Converter moved out of the way.
IMG_6639.jpeg


Transfer switch centered and water pump moved slightly. Don’t mind the water. I also had to relocate one of the water lines and it dipped everywhere.
IMG_6641.jpeg


Then I made a rack for the inverter. I should have made to top shelf full length so that I could have a place for the solar MPTT. I may modify it later when I install solar.
IMG_6672.jpeg


Cool thing is I can remove everything in one piece.
IMG_6676.jpeg


The Inverter ties into the system between the Transfer Switch and the AC panel. So you have to lift the wires that go from the AC Panel and they connect to the Inverter, and then the Transfer Switch connects directly to the Inverter. This allows the Inverter to control the flow of energy. So say you are hooked up to a 13amp service, and you want to run your air conditioner. The Victron Inverter will pull all 13amps from the service, and also pull from the batteries to supplement for the extra demand. It does this flawlessly without the slightest flicker of a light.

I needed about 2’ of 6/4 to go from the transfer switch to the inverter. Pretty clean curly q’s on the output if I do say so lol.
IMG_6637.jpeg


This is a pretty good pic of the relocated transfer switch and the new 2’ section along with the converter mounted up onto the panel to the right. And the space that was made for the stack of batteries.
IMG_6641.jpeg


This was a pain as the crawl space in the toy hauler is Fawking small and I’m 6’2” 250lbs lol.
 
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One thing I will note is the Victron Quattro acts as its own transfer switch. My install utilizes a MuiltPlus-II, which does not have an internal transfer switch. So I am reusing the reliable factory installed Progressive Dynamics PD-52 transfer switch.

If Victron had a 48v 5,000VA 2x120 Quattro that would be perfect for a 50amp RV. I was told by a rep at Hammers there is no plan for Victron the make that. So bummer there.

One reason for wanting to go 48v is the charge efficiency. Not only does it pull less amps and allow you to run smaller cable, but it allows you to recharge the batteries faster. My Inverter has a maximum charge of 70amp at 24v. That means at max charge it can only charge at 1680w. I have a 5,500 Onan. The 48v Victron Quattro can charge at 100amp at 48v, so it can charge at 4,800w and almost max out the Onan. Cuts the charge time down by almost 2/3.


Currently I am still utilizing 2 12v Lead Acid House Batteries. I have to keep a 12v battery for the 12v side of the trailer. The Converter is rated at 55amps, but the leveling system and generator starter motor can pull more than that.

I have a 100AH LiTime lithium 12v battery I need to install that has an internal BMS and is rated at 200amp output. So it should be able to handle the Slides, Leveling System and generator starting. Unfortunately, my Converter is not Li compatible so it will only charge the Li battery to 13.6v and not the 14.2v that it needs. So I would need to buy a new converter that is Li compatible.

That will be for a future install as I have already killed my LA house batteries twice 🤦‍♂️.

They weren’t wired properly to begin with.
IMG_6260.jpeg


IMG_6467.jpeg
 
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rattle_snake said:
Looks like a cool setup and project. Is the goal to run A/C off batts?

I avoid RVs and I hate working on them. Somehow I have two and fix other peoples also. Even higher end RV build quality is ****.
Click to expand...

I also felt like such a primadona telling people the brand new momentum i ran for 2 years was a pile of ****. but it was. Finishes were nice but it broke every trip


Following this for idea's to add onto my toyhauler. Been slowing adding things here and there to make my camping experience easier.
 
rattle_snake said:
Looks like a cool setup and project. Is the goal to run A/C off batts?

I avoid RVs and I hate working on them. Somehow I have two and fix other peoples also. Even higher end RV build quality is ****.
Click to expand...
My calculations I can run both AC units for 12hrs with full batteries. But the end goal is to do a 4-5 day boondocking trip without running the generator.

Granted this is Trumps America and fuel should be cheap, but I only have a 30gal fuel station, and the Turbo RZR is thirsty lol.

75RamRunner said:
I also felt like such a primadona telling people the brand new momentum i ran for 2 years was a pile of ****. but it was. Finishes were nice but it broke every trip


Following this for idea's to add onto my toyhauler. Been slowing adding things here and there to make my camping experience easier.
Click to expand...

It makes me feel better I didn’t spent $150k + on a momentum. I just wanted a clean, low utilized toyhauler that was modern, and didn’t break the bank, and so far I think I did pretty good. Girlfriend and I love this thing.
 
Provience said:
Good **** and hell yeah, thanks for sharing :smokin:
Click to expand...

Absolutely, this $hit scares people. But after some research it’s not so bad. The Tesla batteries are about the highest quality Li batteries you can buy.

SLOWPOKE693 said:
Damn, you got a :smokin: deal on that trailer!

Ill be following along with this thread. I want to put a solar system on my race trailer at some point.
Click to expand...

Thanks man, outside of my house the toy hauler is the 3rd most expensive things I’ve purchased lol.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Nice system. I have the same inverter in 12v flavor (240v generator onboard, so set up for 50a hookups) and it's been amazing.
Click to expand...

You can’t beat Victron, it’s made for 100% duty cycle.

My buddies toyhauler is left fully on. He has 2,400w solar, starlink on the roof. The system is 100% stand alone. And he can monitor it with his phone. He keeps the (residential) fridge full of cold beers 24/7.

Edit: his plan is to add 10+ batteries between the frame rails, and be able to boondock (burning man) 10+ days and not need a generator. With a 48v system the numbers work out.
 
Diablo169 said:
The price was recently dropped to $39K. SOLD. RVMax was absolutely excellent to work with. Zero fees and no PDI, $39k +tax and that was it. Pretty crazy the MSRP in 2019 was $86K
Click to expand...

Diablo169 said:
I crawled under it, and saw that both Leaf packs on the passenger side were bent, and that the top of the U-Bolts had been smashing into the frame. That sucked and was not a repair I was looking to make a week before KOH.
Click to expand...

I can only imagine how you'd feel if that happened if you had paid full price...

Yosemite.gif
 
Diablo169 said:
You can’t beat Victron, it’s made for 100% duty cycle.

My buddies toyhauler is left fully on. He has 2,400w solar, starlink on the roof. The system is 100% stand alone. And he can monitor it with his phone. He keeps the (residential) fridge full of cold beers 24/7.

Edit: his plan is to add 10+ batteries between the frame rails, and be able to boondock (burning man) 10+ days and not need a generator. With a 48v system the numbers work out.
Click to expand...

How does he monitor via his phone?

My system is on 100% of the time now too. I've got my Color Control GX screen for monitoring, so I go in and check on the system about once a week, but the battery is never below 70%.
 
GLTHFJ60 I believe his Cerbo GX is connected to the Starlink and he uses the Victron App or the VRM (Victron Remote Monitoring) portal.

I haven’t decided yet if I want to go with the Cerbo or the Ekrano. Right now if I want to make any changes I have to plug in my laptop using this:
IMG_7712.jpeg


I purchased the smart dongle in Hammer Town for only $80, then I lost it somewhere :mad3: But this allows you to monitor the full system with your phone, I can’t remember if this allows you to configure with your phone though.
IMG_7713.jpeg
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
How does he monitor via his phone?

My system is on 100% of the time now too. I've got my Color Control GX screen for monitoring, so I go in and check on the system about once a week, but the battery is never below 70%.
Click to expand...
I used the cerbo, its OK, not great. Just emulates the screen on your phone basically. Had cell based wifi
 
Diablo169 said:
One of the first issues I had I believe started on my initial trip back to the South Bay on 680. I tow pretty fast and there were some massive pot holes and huge bangs I felt from the horrible condition of 680 in general. The first few trips I had it out, the Auto Leveling would alarm and not level, very frustrating. Later I was parked in a level parking lot and noticed the trailer was leaning heavily to the passenger side. Tape measure showed it was leaning about 3 1/2".

I crawled under it, and saw that both Leaf packs on the passenger side were bent, and that the top of the U-Bolts had been smashing into the frame. That sucked and was not a repair I was looking to make a week before KOH.

IMG_6548.jpeg


IMG_6552.jpeg


After getting on a few forums I found out Lippert uses very cheap springs, and that mine were 6-Leaf and rated 3,500lbs each. At this point I went all in and decided to fully rebuild the suspension.

I Purchased:

Dexter 4,000lb 7-Leaf Springs $216ea
MORryde CRE-3000 8K Shock Absorbing Equalizers $189
MORryde Wet Bolt Kit with Aluminum Shackles $114
9/16 HD U-Bolts and Spring Plates (Amazon) $100
4 HD GM Bump Stops (Amazon) $32

My brother-in-law and my brother helped swap them in the storage yard, and the next trip out the trailer did great.

IMG_6612.jpeg


IMG_6611.jpeg


IMG_6596.jpeg


IMG_6620.jpeg
Click to expand...
DUDE Link to bump stop spring plates????
 
Diablo169 said:
GLTHFJ60 I believe his Cerbo GX is connected to the Starlink and he uses the Victron App or the VRM (Victron Remote Monitoring) portal.

I haven’t decided yet if I want to go with the Cerbo or the Ekrano. Right now if I want to make any changes I have to plug in my laptop using this:
IMG_7712.jpeg


I purchased the smart dongle in Hammer Town for only $80, then I lost it somewhere :mad3: But this allows you to monitor the full system with your phone, I can’t remember if this allows you to configure with your phone though.
IMG_7713.jpeg
Click to expand...
Ekrano is Cerbo and GX touch combined?
 
Diablo169 said:
GLTHFJ60 I believe his Cerbo GX is connected to the Starlink and he uses the Victron App or the VRM (Victron Remote Monitoring) portal.

I haven’t decided yet if I want to go with the Cerbo or the Ekrano. Right now if I want to make any changes I have to plug in my laptop using this:
IMG_7712.jpeg


I purchased the smart dongle in Hammer Town for only $80, then I lost it somewhere :mad3: But this allows you to monitor the full system with your phone, I can’t remember if this allows you to configure with your phone though.
IMG_7713.jpeg
Click to expand...
Gotcha, the internet thing is the key there. I've gotta decide if remote phone monitoring is worth a data Sim or starlink setup.
 
Java230 said:
It's meh. Unless your never around the trailer. If it's on big solar or plugged in why monitor?
Click to expand...
My toy hauler is in a storage yard not plugged in. It would be nice to keep all the batteries and house batteries topped off, and start the fridge and load it a day or so before a trip. And be alerted if something isn’t right.

Another reason to leave it on would be to have security cameras running if you have it parked in a bad area. You could remote view the cameras on your phone through starlink.
 
Diablo169 said:
Another reason to leave it on would be to have security cameras running if you have it parked in a bad area. You could remote view the cameras on your phone through starlink.
Click to expand...

Do you normally park your trailer in bad areas and leave it unattended???

All remote security cameras do is let you watch your junk get stolen or vandalized. If you are that far away, their isn't a thing you can do about it...
 
Diablo169 said:
My toy hauler is in a storage yard not plugged in. It would be nice to keep all the batteries and house batteries topped off, and start the fridge and load it a day or so before a trip. And be alerted if something isn’t right.

Another reason to leave it on would be to have security cameras running if you have it parked in a bad area. You could remote view the cameras on your phone through starlink.
Click to expand...
Yes, remote storage makes sense. Mine is in the driveway.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Do you normally park your trailer in bad areas and leave it unattended???

All remote security cameras do is let you watch your junk get stolen or vandalized. If you are that far away, their isn't a thing you can do about it...
Click to expand...
That wasn’t geared towards me, mine is in an RV storage lot that has never had a single issue that shares a fence with a power plant.

But you could call the owners of the lot and say your $hit is getting messed with. My lot is on someone’s property that the family lives on.
 
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