7.3L E350 white smoke

Just hear back from Full Force Diesel, and followed up with a phone call.

AH(1016) FLOW TEST: 8, 7.3 (180/30, AC6930) During our inspection we confirmed and found #4 injector had a cracked nozzle causing it to over fuel. Additionally, 3 other injectors had debris in the nozzles clogging the spray holes. Replaced 4 nozzles.
NOTE TO CUSTOMER: SERIVCE YOUR FUEL SYSTEM, CLEAN FUEL BOWL IF PRESENT & REPLACE FUEL FILTERS. CLEAN OUT YOUR FUEL LINES. INSPECT FUEL COMING FROM TANK, ANY SIGNS OF DEBRIS REQUIRE DROP AND CLEAN TANK.

$540 and they're on the way back.

This is on me and no fault of FFD. Their customer service has been great.

I know I've replaced the fuel filter before, but only once in owning the van, looks like that's not nearly enough.

Further updates will happen after I clean and inspect my fuel system.
 
Just hear back from Full Force Diesel, and followed up with a phone call.



$540 and they're on the way back.

This is on me and no fault of FFD. Their customer service has been great.

I know I've replaced the fuel filter before, but only once in owning the van, looks like that's not nearly enough.

Further updates will happen after I clean and inspect my fuel system.

Assuming my fuel system is roughly similar, my fuel filter is so bad I start noticing a significant loss of power about every 30k miles... and that's my reminder to change it.

I also installed a "hutch mod" with spin on frame mounted fuel filter

 
I am changing my fuel filter every 5-6k miles. Maybe overkill? Idk but my FFD 180/30s have been good for about 22k miles now
 
I buy my oil and fuel filters in fleet packs of 6-10, so I change the fuel filter every time I change the oil.
 
Fuel bowl looks disgusting inside. This is after I drained it, wiped it with a rag, and cycled 5 fuel bowls of diesel through it. Looks like it needs to come out and be properly cleaned on the bench.
 

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Assuming my fuel system is roughly similar, my fuel filter is so bad I start noticing a significant loss of power about every 30k miles... and that's my reminder to change it.

I also installed a "hutch mod" with spin on frame mounted fuel filter

I do mine every 500hrs. Air filter too.
 
Assuming my fuel system is roughly similar, my fuel filter is so bad I start noticing a significant loss of power about every 30k miles... and that's my reminder to change it.

I also installed a "hutch mod" with spin on frame mounted fuel filter

How is the pump relocated? What's wrong with it being in the valley?
 
Gut that fuel heater and it will me much easier to keep clean, un plug, remove the two torx screws and make a cut on each side of the screws and put the small plate back in.
 
How is the pump relocated? What's wrong with it being in the valley?
The factory pump is barely enough fuel for a stock truck. Even the most mild chips are too much for the stock fuel system. Replacement pumps are garbage too.

To keep the injectors happy for a long life you need more fuel. Even in stock form.

Going to an electric pump solves this. But there is debate on whether the stock fuel bowl is capable of handling the pressure long term, but really it should be the same pressure.

So guys are putting electric pumps on the frame and using spin on filters that are probably better quality and cheaper.

I have that debate. I made 390 hp on stock fuel. But I know when I hammer on it my fuel pressure is pretty much zero. My factory pump keeps hanging on, but when it goes, electric fuel it is.
 
The factory pump is barely enough fuel for a stock truck. Even the most mild chips are too much for the stock fuel system. Replacement pumps are garbage too.

To keep the injectors happy for a long life you need more fuel. Even in stock form.

Going to an electric pump solves this. But there is debate on whether the stock fuel bowl is capable of handling the pressure long term, but really it should be the same pressure.

So guys are putting electric pumps on the frame and using spin on filters that are probably better quality and cheaper.

I have that debate. I made 390 hp on stock fuel. But I know when I hammer on it my fuel pressure is pretty much zero. My factory pump keeps hanging on, but when it goes, electric fuel it is.
My truck makes like 200 hp.

There any kits that aren't ******ed money? I'm definitely not spending $1000 on something I might not even need. $100, maybe.
 
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My truck makes like 200 hp.
It is amazing what the old 7.3 can do with mild mods and not risk the durability of the engine. Like the 6.0 is wound pretty tight from the factory. There is a lot of room for improvement on the old 7.3.
Well worth it too.

I am on 180/0 injectors. Intercooled. KC Turbo. I probably can't even remember all the mods honestly. But stock fuel and stock HPOP I made 390 hp and just shy of 700ft/lbs on the dyno. That was on a custom Tony Wildman tune.

Not knowing any better at the time I wonder what I could have done with Electric fuel and better HPOP. I can only imagine my fuel pressure was 0 and I was running out of oil and setting the check engine light.

Still not winning any races but the truck is a towing animal. Wish I could mate a 6r up to it.
 
I feel like there's two side conversations going on. 2big bronco and I both have 99-03 7.3L, so they're electric fuel pumps from the factory.

It seems like Tiha is talking about a 94-97 7.3L which had a mechanical fuel pump.

My truck makes like 200 hp.

There any kits that aren't ******ed money? I'm definitely not spending $1000 on something I might not even need. $100, maybe.
I agree. I looked into it briefly and talked to FFD about it when I was on the phone paying for my injector rebuild, and concluded to stay with the factory fuel bowl.

Besides just being a filter, the fuel bowl also handles the fuel distribution to both heads (and back if you have a fuel rail crossover), pressure regulation, and heating.
 
Gut that fuel heater and it will me much easier to keep clean, un plug, remove the two torx screws and make a cut on each side of the screws and put the small plate back in.
a buddy reminded me that if I pull the fuel bowl, then the 25 year old fuel lines will probably leak and need to be replaced, so I pulled the fuel heater and got in there as best I could with brake cleaner and scotchbrite and then flushed about a gallon of diesel through it until it started coming out clean.

I found that if I left the filter out, lid on, and drain open and connected to a drain tube, and cycle the key, it would dump out frothy diesel, so I assume it was stirring up all the crap in there.

I debated not reinstalling the heater even before I read your comment, and now am debating it again. I obviously don’t need it in coastal California, and probably not in the Sierra, but wonder if 5 years from now I’m gonna be on some dumb adventure and wish I had it.
 

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It is amazing what the old 7.3 can do with mild mods and not risk the durability of the engine. Like the 6.0 is wound pretty tight from the factory. There is a lot of room for improvement on the old 7.3.
Well worth it too.

I am on 180/0 injectors. Intercooled. KC Turbo. I probably can't even remember all the mods honestly. But stock fuel and stock HPOP I made 390 hp and just shy of 700ft/lbs on the dyno. That was on a custom Tony Wildman tune.

Not knowing any better at the time I wonder what I could have done with Electric fuel and better HPOP. I can only imagine my fuel pressure was 0 and I was running out of oil and setting the check engine light.

Still not winning any races but the truck is a towing animal. Wish I could mate a 6r up to it.
Never felt that I needed more power really. It hauls 5 tons in the bed without fuss.
It's a rocket compared to the 83 C30 that had 160hp when new. Not really much slower than my 10yr newer Dodge which is allegedly 300hp.
 
I think your fine if 100% stock,

BUT

Mark Fugazzotto efual kit is really well put together, and utilizes the factory bosch electric fuel pump from 99-03 super duties, as well as the factory fuel pressure regulator assembly in a custom block, so those parts are available, and used spares etc..

I did one a 97 not long ago and was pleased. it had 160/0's


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It is amazing what the old 7.3 can do with mild mods and not risk the durability of the engine. Like the 6.0 is wound pretty tight from the factory. There is a lot of room for improvement on the old 7.3.
Well worth it too.

I am on 180/0 injectors. Intercooled. KC Turbo. I probably can't even remember all the mods honestly. But stock fuel and stock HPOP I made 390 hp and just shy of 700ft/lbs on the dyno. That was on a custom Tony Wildman tune.

Not knowing any better at the time I wonder what I could have done with Electric fuel and better HPOP. I can only imagine my fuel pressure was 0 and I was running out of oil and setting the check engine light.

Still not winning any races but the truck is a towing animal. Wish I could mate a 6r up to it.
Was that a tow tune or all out tune?
 
Was that a tow tune or all out tune?
That was When you pay for custom tuning while up on the dyno. The best Canned tune I originally had was only about 320hp.

Custom tuning is totally worth it if you have the time and money.
 
Sidetracked!

I think your fine if 100% stock,

BUT

Mark Fugazzotto efual kit is really well put together, and utilizes the factory bosch electric fuel pump from 99-03 super duties, as well as the factory fuel pressure regulator assembly in a custom block, so those parts are available, and used spares etc..

I did one a 97 not long ago and was pleased. it had 160/0's


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That is very cool, I kinda want it. How is it tied into the fuel tanks? I wanna go e-fuel because no matter what I do I always have something leaking in the valley. How does that connect to the fuel lines on the frame rail? I only have a single 38 gallon tank now so I'm planning on deleting the diverter valve on the frame when I go e-fuel.
 
Sidetracked!


That is very cool, I kinda want it. How is it tied into the fuel tanks? I wanna go e-fuel because no matter what I do I always have something leaking in the valley. How does that connect to the fuel lines on the frame rail? I only have a single 38 gallon tank now so I'm planning on deleting the diverter valve on the frame when I go e-fuel.
Fuel lines on frame rail. Compression fittings, was tight on my regular cab
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Email him for kit price, he gets them out pretty quick. [email protected]

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I made directions from his youtube video on install

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Update on my van, got everything together and it won't start. I'm familiar with how long these take to start after replacing injectors, and it's different. Not smoking, not trying to start.

Ran the Key On Engine Off self test in Forscan, and get these codes, largely pointing at the driver side of the harness:
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Sure enough, the engine harness is crumbling at the UVCH connector on the driver side.
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I used a pick to carefully separate the wires and it still throws the same codes and doesn't start. This is the 3rd time that harness has failed in a different place, the first left me on the side of I80 (thankfully solo) and a massive sunburn by the time I got it fixed and made it to Fordyce. I think 25 years and 343k miles is just end of life for the engine harness.

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According to Riffraff and Prosource Diesel, the van harness is obsolete and there's no aftermarket replacement. They also both told me the truck harness is different enough that I can't make it work.

I'm hoping there's another failure in this harness that I can't see with it loomed and in the vehicle.

I ordered a new aftermarket truck harness from Prosource, it'll be here Monday and I'll pull and de-loom my harness and decide if I'm better off to replace any sketchy bits of my harness, or modify the truck harness.
 
I’ve seen internal wires under the cover get pinched by the cover and then short it out and cause a no start
 
Minor update. Borrowed 2big bronco 's reg cab manual transmission 7.3L that has about 1000 miles more than mine and towed the Jeep up to Rubicon for father's day. My 6yo was in hog heaven getting to ride in the front seat all weekend in both the truck and the Jeep. It's way faster than my van. Smaller tires, lighter weight, manual transmission. It also has newer stock injectors and a van turbo with a wicked wheel. I'm hopeful that my new turbo will wake up the van a bit.

Back to the van, I got a new truck engine harness from prosourcediesel.com I pulled my engine harness and instantly noticed that it has more connectors on it. Mine has a Glow Plug Control Module (GPCM), the federal emissions trucks had a Glow Plug Relay (GPR). Turns out I was going off of memory that my van is a federal emissions van. It's not, it's a California emissions, but with no catalyst. Prosource Diesel was super cool about exchanging my harness for a California model truck/excursion harness. They're out of stock, but expect more on Tuesday. I get to take another weekend off of working on the van.

Side note. I learned that all Excursions were built with California emissions, so even though this says "Excursion" it's actually Excursion/Truck. They named it Excursion because it's the most common application.
 

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I hope you swapped injectors before you gave it back to him. LOL

Vans are detuned so bad, yes they are gutless in comparison.
Mine has 180/30 injectors that FFD just went through. His has under 100k on new stockers. I'm not the only one that's said his truck feels really fast for what it is. Not sure if it's the weight, or the manual, or if it's just that Jody at DP knocked the tune out of the park that one day 15 years ago.
 
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