Build Boomtacoma's Rear Steer Buggy Build - Wende XL Chassis

Interested in how the haltech works out. I have a I6 and a 3800SC that will need a controller and have been eyeing their stuff. Used a painless in the past and it works but since they've dropped any and all support for it.
 
Yeah I hope it does. The more I have read about the Haltech stuff, the more I can appreciate it. It will definitely be a learning curve..



Got my Atlas ordered on Monday... So spending is shot for the week..

Atlas II Trail series, 5.0, Driver drop, 1410s front and rear. Was told about a month on production time.

Just killing time on small things till that gets here.

  • I cut out the AR500 skid last night 28.5x26.5 still working on the mounting solution. Going to try to integrate the mounting tabs to the transmission crossmember if possible..
  • Started mocking up some seat mounts, a little tall right now but purposely done so I can cut them down after the Atlas gets here. Hopefully nice and low.
 
Maybe it's not pertinent to your situation, but years ago I built a Scout 80 with a pretty big skid plate on it.
I made up some hinge features on one side of it so that I could get that one side tipped up, then get a pin through, then swing the whole thing up to bolt to the frame.
Crappy pic of it I just dug up from the old place....
1743006267287.png
 
I built that Scout for a buddy of mine out of state, so I really didn't end up having to work on it a lot.
But the few times I had the skid on and off it was pretty nice.
I have to benchpress my skids on my buggy and try to hold them up with my knees while I'm starting bolts. Sux.
 
I usually just put the skid on a floor jack and lift it into place. Also helpfull to be able to roll it around. Use some wood blocks to make up the height difference if needed.
 
I have a Trans jack. its just being occupied by the transmission right now.

Hence the reason I stopped working on the mounts to the subframe lol.

I have a Badlands jack if I ever have to remove away from home..
 
Ghetto Fab. said:
I usually just put the skid on a floor jack and lift it into place. Also helpfull to be able to roll it around. Use some wood blocks to make up the height difference if needed.
Click to expand...
same here.

i found where center of gravity was and put 4 drain holes around where to put the jack plate so there wasn't any thinking necessary when i needed to drop or lift it.
 
Im so ready to get back to work on the buggy.....

Still about a week out on my Atlas. I've been ordering parts for the fuel system, Turbo and exhaust.

Plan is to mock up the hot side and see How it fits in the area I have planned. Then on to the cold side, I may have to get a little creative..

Pulsar 3071 Turbo showed up yesterday

Pulsar 3071.jpg


GLFab 2RZ/3RZ turbo manifold is en route.

GLF mani 2.jpg


FiveO 750cc injectors came in and are installed

FiveO 750cc EV6.jpg


Turbosmart Hypergate45 in hand. Some 3" exhaust tube, flex joint and Flowmaster FX muffler, DEI heat shield

I splurged on some Radium goodies for the Fuel System
Direct fit FPR to the Fuel rail and 100 micron Fuel filter.

Radium FPR.jpg


Haltech stuff

Elite 750 and WB1.jpg


GPS and IC7.jpg

SNP full harness.jpg


Finally got my US General 56" top chest in so I can organize and put away tools sitting around in boxes for f'kn months....

HF Toolbox.jpg


Toolbox on my truck decided it wanted to stop cooperating so I had to replace that too with a FBMP deal .

Ram tool box.jpg
 
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The GLFab Exhaust manifold came in last week. He really does a great job on these. Naturally I had to throw the Turbo on for good measure..

Pulsar 3071 Gen 2 - Seems these are the ones getting popular with the guys boosting 2/3RZs
For the price I gave it a shot..

  • Dual Ceramic Ball Bearing System
  • 8 Blade Gen2 Billet Compressor Wheel with Extended Tapered Tip Technology
  • Inconel 713c 10 Blade Turbine Wheel
  • Gen2 Cover Integrated with the Speed Sensor Port
  • 3" V-Band Flange exhaust housing
  • 4" inlet on Turbine Housing: T3 0.83A/R
  • Performance turbo for applications with 1.8 – 3.0L engines
  • Max Air Flow rate: ~60 lb/min, rated @ 650 FWHP
I found a Turbosmart Hypergate45 and a eBay special 44mm exhaust pipe to use.. Not in its final orientation yet.


turbo 1.jpg
turbo 2.jpg
turbo 3.jpg
turbo 4.jpg
turbo.jpg



Considering a 3 port boost controller but need to look into that some more and how it integrates on the Haltech 750, If not, I'll use the manual Turbosmart on I have on the shelf that I never used for my other truck.

The T3 Spacer is on for now to buy some needed clearance for the coil packs in front of the Air filter. Those may get relocated. The spacer does buy me some room for the Turbo oil drain though. The air filter may need to be extended and routed differently, but that is where it will live for now. Now that I have a reference; I can pull the pan, install the 10AN bung for the turbo drain and plumb that up.
I also got the 4AN oil feed plumbed up from the oil filter to the turbo with a few fittings.

Air charge from the turbo is 2" moving to 2.75" at the throttle body. I hope it is able to clear the accessory drive and fan on the radiator. I still need some more parts to check that. May get my buddy to tig me up a shiny piece when its in its final configuration.

Exhaust will be 3in all the way out through a Flowmaster Flow FX muffler. It should be nice and ricey..

I may put the 2wd A340 pan back on to relocate the Trans dipstick to the other side even though I may lose a little capacity.
I over fill the trans anyways and will have a trans cooler plumbed in too.
 
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I guess that could be an option. I hadn't considered that or even know if it was possible.. I have all new parts in the current setup now I would need to research what would be necessary to convert the SNP harness from 2 coil to coil on plug.
 
Boomtacoma01 said:
I guess that could be an option. I hadn't considered that or even know if it was possible.. I have all new parts in the current setup now I would need to research what would be necessary to convert the SNP harness from 2 coil to coil on plug.
Click to expand...
Depends the type of your coils.
Some R35 coils might work for you.
 
Not sure that will necessarily work or make things any easier since my radiator is kicked back as far as it currently sits.
 
Still waiting on my Atlas so, been killing time on other things.

A buddy came by to assist with a fabricated cold side intake pipe. He 3D printed some 2" straight and 22 degree pie cut pieces and we managed to route the crossover a little closer to the engine and reduced some of the 90s to help streamline it a bit better. The tight radius bends that are achieved with the pie cuts are so much cleaner than what I had before. There is still enough wiggle room for some alignment on the install when it is all fabbed out of aluminum.

intake 1.jpg



intake 2.jpg



intake 3.jpg



intake 4.jpg
 
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Surprised you didn't go with a 2.7/2.0/5.4 atlas.

You guys don't have much trails in between crawling over there? Or does the 3rz have enough low end that high range is useable?
 
High range is usable between the trails. my boosted 2RZ Atlas 4.3 and 538s makes pretty good time in High ..
Our wheeling is a little different here but not too much..
 
Boomtacoma01 said:
High range is usable between the trails. my boosted 2RZ Atlas 4.3 and 538s makes pretty good time in High ..
Our wheeling is a little different here but not too much..
Click to expand...

Gotcha.

I've always wanted to try an auto with a 4cyl so I've always asked guys how they like thier set up it seems most say 1:1 is useless with a 4cyl. But I think the rz's probably have the best low end of any 4cyl.
 
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