Willys Body Dimensions

[memphis]

Web wheeler
Joined
Jun 6, 2020
Member Number
1867
Messages
809
Morning guys, I need to start working on my hammer forms for my Cj2a project.

-I have the side cowl dimensions
-I have the side panel/wheel arch dimensions
-I know what the tailgate opening dimensions are roughly (drawings show 36”)
-Repro tailgate dimensions are 37” x 15” approximately as I recall the gate overlaps the body

*I do not have a body here to reference whatsoever

On the rear cross sill body panel under the tailgate can someone confirm the dimensions of the trapezoid cut out under the centre of the tailgate?

I have watched a bunch of metalshaper willys hammer forming on YouTube but Brian never posts dimensions

Also, the rear floor step is roughly the same profile on the tub is my understanding. Is the trapezoid shape on the front riser the same height as the rear cross sill at the back of the body?
 
Just sold mine.
Buuuut
Yer gunna streatch the footwell some RIGHT
 
Just sold mine.
Buuuut
Yer gunna streatch the footwell some RIGHT
That’s the plan, I am going to change the kick up at the firewall slightly. I don’t know what I’m going to do… but I want to do something…

I am hoping to buy a partial body so I can use the upper cowl. The issue with changing the kick up is the support pieces that land on the frame mounted in that area. I haven’t figured that out.
 
Worst case, you incorporate the ammo can mod in the rear kickup into the bed all the way to the body support and tire interference...
:stirthepot:
New tech:smokin:
 
Worst case, you incorporate the ammo can mod in the rear kickup into the bed all the way to the body support and tire interference...
:stirthepot:
New tech:smokin:
I’m drawing a blank? Do you have a pic for reference?
 
Pm inbound
No gawddamn help here! Trying to bring the tech! Using Jpets’ hammer form dimensions off cj2a page I give you exhibit A

Tomorrow I am stopping by a friends who has a M38a1 in his backyard I forgot about. It will give me the rear cross sill dimensions I am looking for because you mouth breathers are useless :flipoff2:

I will make sure to post the dimensions when I use parchment paper to get be angles 😂

Pic is the stock wheel well. I need to bump it to 18” radius
 

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Radius on the plywood is incorrect. My paper template of the side cowl is a better match to factory but the edges were folding up on this HD paper.

Daddy got a paper Jeep for Christmas!
 

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Used parchment paper, crayons and pencil to get the approximate shape of the rear cross sill.

In Metalshapers video he references using a 9/16” punch in the inner corners to give it a nice radius which seems about right. I’ll be trying my luck with a hole saw as I don’t have a rotomax punch in my driveway

The dimensions appear pretty basic:

The rise over run is 2.5” over 2.5” up
The large gap opening along the bottom of the trapezoid is 13.5”
The top of the trapezoid is 8.5” across

Its crazy I couldn’t find these dimensions anywhere on the internet

I’ll need to check against my CJ2a dimensions but the rear height of the m38a1 tub is 17.75”

The weld seams for the fixed rear panel is 50” on an m38a1
 

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Working on my side cowl dimensions, wondering if anyone here can verify these?

I know the height for the rear side panel to side cowl is 9.75” so that’s correct.

Confirmed dash to hood hinge is 11.25”

Curious about confirming the following:

The fender angle at 62°

Length of the bottom of the sidecowl piece, I have 20.5” with an additional 3/4” overlap to connect to the rear side panel

Length of the top of the cowl piece, assumed to be 17.5” to meet up with the 62° angled run. I have a 3/4” radius on that panel but that’s just an eyeball

Door radius opening is 5”, copied from my TJ

Based on my drawing the side cowl panel height is 16” tall from the bottom to the body seam at the upper cowling

Assuming the hinge pivot bolt is about 9” from the dash based on the windshield I have here? Can we confirm this?

Can anyone confirm what I have drawn here?
 

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Thank you Ford Archives!


I was given a lot of different measurements on Facebook but figure I have a side cowl drawing that is close enough... I'll have to update this thread in my next post with my phone... having some major desktop issues where I saved this cowl drawing, and even it's screwing up! If I save it and zoom in I can't read anything... the Ford link seems to be working and I can zoom in to verify things

From what I concluded from the GPW drawing... I am a touch long as I referenced tubs in the real world as well as the drawing.

  • The length of this panel along the bottom (approximately) ****above the step which is approximately 1" is 20" long + 3/4" for the overlap (based on someone measuring their tub) that ties into the rear side panels. The GPW drawing says this is 19.22"
  • Overall length the panel appears to be 27.94" for the GPW. What I have drawn is 28.25"
  • Panel height wasn't clear based on this drawing... I received information from owners it's about 15.75" and went with that. I used Jeff Petrowich's template for the rear and the door opening height is 9.75" the GPW drawing suggests its around 9.57" from what I can barely see... I went with Jeff's template height so it all meets up at the taper.
  • Centre of windshield hinge bolts is 10.5" from the dash & bottom bolt is down 7/8" from the body seam
  • Dash to hood hinge is 11.25" confirmed from online user
  • Fender angle... I received 62 degrees and 60 degrees from online sources... I literally just measured the GPW on my screen and it's kicking back around 62.8 so I might redraw this one more time to get it closer. This would shorten up the top of the panel and get me closer to 27.94
  • Radius at the tip of the cowl is 0.50"R
I am hoping I can cut this out tomorrow. I have some 18 gauge tin here to practice on.
 

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Got the front cowl support cut out this afternoon. It’s starting to look like a Jeep! The cowl was redrawn with the 62° angle… weird that they would choose 62° as a measurement but…
 

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Just beat it, beat it, beat it!
Needs some love… some 3/4” steel would make a nice little dolly to smooth it out
 

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0.75” thick 4” flat bar. Making a small steel form for the door opening but the wood will likely collapse due to the shrinking and stretching in this area. I cut all of this out on a portable bandsaw but need to grind off that tiny nub. The steel is hitting the body of the saw trying to cut it off
 

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I didn’t do anything Willys related for two months 🤦‍♂️

I had to polish up my Amazon planish hammer bits, you can see the garbage finish on right side attachment. I still suck at planishing… even with an air hammer it’s not smooth at all, but I’m chasing perfection with all the wrong tooling.

I cut out the driver side cowl panel and will work on hammering it out this weekend. Maybe I’ll have better luck keeping it in the wooden buck when I planish it? I’m not too worried… the imperfections will give it some character and it won’t look nice and new
 

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Driver side cowl completed
3/4” plate partial door form completed

Maple plywood crushed doing the side panels. I used solid maple for a few dolly pieces and could have probably made the partial door form out of solid maple. Now I have it for life 🤣
 

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Nice work! Interested to see how it all comes together. I’m going to be attempting some similar panel banging for a 3B body, so looking forward to learning from your effort!
 
Nice work! Interested to see how it all comes together. I’m going to be attempting some similar panel banging for a 3B body, so looking forward to learning from your effort!

I haven’t touched the project in a
Month unfortunately. I’ll get back at it but I need to buy more sheet metal. Honey do list is getting in my way unfortunately
 
I cheated and found a partial NOS 2a cowl but the firewall had been cut. Never painted and never had the gauges cut into it. My panels seem to fit nice. I’m extending the foot wells so the missing firewall isn’t that problematic
 

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Great find! The cowl is tough to replicate, so that will save you a lot of time!
 
The guys on the g503 website probably could tell you anything you possibly need to know about old Jeeps .
 
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