1978 F-fun hundred 3/4 tons and 37s

205 deserves a pretty paint job after you grind all the casting imperfections and shave the wedge off the top.

I would leave the servo alone if the trans performs acceptably. If current servo can fully actuate the band at WOT your good.
 
rattle_snake said:
I would leave the servo alone
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Probably the best advice, I don’t need another problem/project. If it’s not broke don’t fix it.

I’ll save the paint and shave for the race case
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Cooler lines 2.0 done

The culprit must be over tightened compression fittings. From the looks of it I’d say the aluminum fatigued enough and is most likely split open.
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Well sheeeeeet!!!! Busted off the transmission fitting.
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Easy enough salvage op
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Luckily my cores had the OE fittings. Also lucky that they are 1/8” NPS x 1/2 -20 and I have a pile of those laying around for building steering gears.
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I’ll get around to leak testing tomorrow. Note that I tied into the radiator cooler this time around. I don’t care what pros and cons there are of that. I just want the damn fluid to heat up faster in the winter.
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Another carb vent shot to show the scale of how tall it is. Flat base with 4” filter
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In other news, I had to replace the tach light after 20 years. Replaced the high beam indicator light. Dumped the LED head lights for sealed beam. The ricer lights were having trouble firing in sub zero temps. Also had to replace the RF turn signal socket. My ground fix failed. Dorman makes an OEM style replacement instead of some of the generic 1157 sockets on the market.
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WiscoF100 said:
Cooler lines 2.0 done

The culprit must be over tightened compression fittings. From the looks of it I’d say the aluminum fatigued enough and is most likely split open.
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Well sheeeeeet!!!! Busted off the transmission fitting.
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Easy enough salvage op
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Luckily my cores had the OE fittings. Also lucky that they are 1/8” NPS x 1/2 -20 and I have a pile of those laying around for building steering gears.
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I’ll get around to leak testing tomorrow. Note that I tied into the radiator cooler this time around. I don’t care what pros and cons there are of that. I just want the damn fluid to heat up faster in the winter.
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Another carb vent shot to show the scale of how tall it is. Flat base with 4” filter
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In other news, I had to replace the tach light after 20 years. Replaced the high beam indicator light. Dumped the LED head lights for sealed beam. The ricer lights were having trouble firing in sub zero temps. Also had to replace the RF turn signal socket. My ground fix failed. Dorman makes an OEM style replacement instead of some of the generic 1157 sockets on the market.
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That tach at night brings back memories
 
Why the compression fittings& And AL tube?

In general comp fittings are not used on automotive, instead flare/inverse flare, o-ring, ect.

The compression fittings that Autometer supplied with gauges seemed to all eventually fail, plastic or copper tube.
 
Because I only have a single flare tool and aluminum flares like garbage most of the time anyways. Usually splits. It was the best temporary permanent solution until I thought of something better.
 
Levigarrett76 said:
That tach at night brings back memories
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Tell the class

I had to investigate the timeline of when I purchased this tach.

Wasn’t my trailer park car. That had a late 90s Pro-comp with toggle recall. It was from our 70 Torino dirt car. Picture circa 2001
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It was from my 69 Mustang Circa 2003
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I had the green bulb cover on mine, gauge light lit up the cab at night when it was street rig. I think i bought it in 2001 put in my green 79, then my 76. Sold the 76, now its in what's left of my 76/79 in this buggy.
Cant remember if it lived in my 79 super cab, i need to bust out the Eckerds photos soon.
 

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Haven’t done much with truck since air temps are approaching 32 above. It functions like a normal vehicle the warmer it gets. Running the transmission oil into the radiator made a major impact on cold drivability.

Messed with timing, advance weights and vacuum advance source today. In doing so, the C6 developed a bad 2-3 flare. 3 use to hit now it gets about a 500 rpm jump before grabbing. I’ll look into adjusting the band.

Hoping this is the answer to the cold weather/rapid climate change drama I deal with around here. Everything but the fuel hose and ends. I’ve got enough of that laying around. I’ll mess with this more towards the end of summer.
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It does truck stuff regularly. I haven’t driven the Cummins or Sable all winter because this truck is way better at wasting fuel and making me smile.
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Everything is packaged very nicely. I chose it for the remote computer and plug and play system. My ignition is compatible but I have my doubts about Pertronix. They had a huge Christmas sale to make way for the next model. I’ll document the process.

Adjusted the intermediate band after dinner. Got a clean shift for third back. Now, dummy, quit driving like it’s something exotic…..

Broke the jam nut free, relaxed the adjustment bolt, set torque to 120 in/lbs, made index marks, backed it off 1.5 turns and secure the jam nut again. Pretty easy.
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Levigarrett76 here’s the latest mousetrap
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It’s not discreet or fancy. My original circuit was slurping straight oil into the separator canister under wfo pulls. HV pump filling the valve covers. So I constructed an integrated canister on the front side where it won’t pull straight oil anymore.

To verify, I temporarily looped into the original separator since it has a drain valve and tested for a couple weeks under all driving conditions. It produced a small drip drip vs a cup of oil.
 
Maybe I missed it, but why the need for the air/oil separator on this engine? Just because or does a normal PCV suck too much oil?
 
I like to pull vacuum on the crank case. The crank case fresh air intake is restricted so as to not pull atmosphere past seals or be a “vacuum leak”. The separator is just that. No oil consumption via intake. No oily valve covers. It satisfies environmental requirements for racing as well. (Obviously not a race car) This was proof of concept for the ultra4 and improvement over my 17 yo idea

The same practice is all the rage for 6.0 powerstrokes and 6.7 Cummins. My 6.7 hasn’t been an issue since I run the oil level lower than specified. It shows on the bottom of the sticks specified fill level. No CCV or oil loss issues since on stock CCV system.
 
WiscoF100 said:
Tell the class

I had to investigate the timeline of when I purchased this tach.

Wasn’t my trailer park car. That had a late 90s Pro-comp with toggle recall. It was from our 70 Torino dirt car. Picture circa 2001
IMG_1297.jpeg

It was from my 69 Mustang Circa 2003
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Click to expand...
69 Mustang? 70?
 
WiscoF100 said:
I like to pull vacuum on the crank case. The crank case fresh air intake is restricted so as to not pull atmosphere past seals or be a “vacuum leak”. The separator is just that. No oil consumption via intake. No oily valve covers. It satisfies environmental requirements for racing as well. (Obviously not a race car) This was proof of concept for the ultra4 and improvement over my 17 yo idea

The same practice is all the rage for 6.0 powerstrokes and 6.7 Cummins. My 6.7 hasn’t been an issue since I run the oil level lower than specified. It shows on the bottom of the sticks specified fill level. No CCV or oil loss issues since on stock CCV system.
Click to expand...
Understood.

I made a PVC contraption with mesh for a fresh 347 back in the 2000s. The PCV was in the back of the intake, trick flow EFI manifold. It had a baffle, but it would pull a LOT of oil into the intake plenum. It had a drain valve on the bottom. It worked but was a PITA. I eventually modified the baffle and once rings were seated it didn't need the separator. Couldn't use valve cover as I had to remove the baffles for roller rockers.
 
Had enough of the TMeyer filter adapter. Not a fan of no anti-drainback filters. Too lazy to find one- assuming Meyer would’ve already invested his due diligence.

So when I got home from work this morning I picked up a new 51515 and got right into modifying the OG adapter.

The engine block is drilled to 17/32” in all the primary circuits. Same as a Melling HV. The OE fitting is 1/2”. The meyer adapter really isn’t necessary.
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Some durty step drill process followed by a very half ass one eye squint compound setup
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My home brew install/removal tools
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Didn’t have plans to mess with the carb today until I bumped the throttle doing something under hood when I noticed the accelerator pump leaking. Luckily it was just loose screws. While I was at it, the choke was locked out and I installed a .037” wing or window or whatever squirter. The shot is something to make the Thompson power plate jealous. Truck really liked that change from the .035”. Recently I visited my dad and he sent me home with all my carb tuning stuff/inventory from 25yrs ago. TSA was all hung up on my carryon when they found that stuff.
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Now that we’re getting into the high 40s……I’ve been spending more time tuning. Jetting is now 73/76. Added a few more degrees initial timing and she rips.

The list is never ending for what I want to finish, fix, mod next. I’ve got a very cool factory gauge cluster mod in the works. Can’t wait to dive in to that. Hint: stock instruments performing new tricks. Hold my juice box
 
Found a vacuum gauge to fill the void above the hour meter, removing the test gauge from the dash.
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Per the calculator I was using, a yellow 18 tooth drive gear was the closest match for my measured rollout. 33.4”. RPMs and roadside radar proved that to be false. Back to the white 17 tooth gear.
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Modular fixture table in the works. I’ll post a thread in the tools forum (if it’s not a fail) Planning a 1/2” 5 sided table x2. A 30x60 and 24x36 both with 6” skirts. 3/4” holes on 2” grid. (Fireball) something like a thousand holes I’ve got to drill.
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Somebody buy this T-18 basket case from me
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Nv trip
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Last fuggin snow storm we had. 10” measured ahead of the balls
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Questioning appropriate locations to monitor engine oil and transmission temps. A lot of debate about transmission locations.

Do I want to monitor the trans,

1) leaving the pump
2) returning from the coolers
3) pan (not dropping the pan at this time) (can add bung to next pan/C6 build)

Engine,

Same as above but for now I’m set on monitoring pressurized oil directly off the pump. I’ll be adding a cooler to external oil line. (So only 50% of the oil is cooled :homer:) (which is 100% more effective than without cooler) Sensor will be placed directly at block fitting.

Parts are ordered for my next mousetrap. Will update 2 weeks or so from now.
 
I think it depends on what you are trying to achieve. How critical is the trans temp for your location and use? I'd guess it's not, and anywhere is fine. I prefer the pan, as that is the temp going into the pump and so on. Otherwise I would just use the probe port in the case that already exists. If you look at the cooler output the temp range will vary widely as it comes out of the converter, that makes most of the heat. The pan smooths/averages the readings. The fluid it not at post-converter temps for very long, maybe a few seconds.

For engine oil, same. Is a cooler even needed? I get that if you have gauges and cooler that you want to use them.

If this was a work truck loaded over GVW towing heavy up steep grades in 100+ temperatures then gauges and coolers become important.
 
The Cummings is for max GVW and western grades with the AC on, cruise set at 85 :grinpimp:

Heat management is still my focus with this truck as I just want everything under control because even though it’s not phoenix, the temps get pretty wild under hood. I want to keep things efficient and worry free on long haul drives. Truck is noticeably laggy once max effort heat soaked when I took it on a 3hr cruise the other day where it was 80* in the highlands. Versus tire shredding around town trips while everything is still “cool”

Not dropping the pan right meow. I’ll put the probe on the cooler return fitting on the case.

Today I came up with a new plan for engine oil while shopping/planning. I’ll run a remote cooler adapter at the filter and just cycle all the oil through the cooler. I can add a probe on the engine or the cooler side.

Gearing up for the 460 build later this year and just want all systems in place.

The gauges are a unique concept I came up with and this is just a way to pull it all together. I like monitoring things and what effects different conditions have. It’s entertainment while driving.

Then, once winter comes in 5 months I’ll cover up all the coolers again. Lol
 
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Future reference material

The $200 hope the block isn’t cracked 460
D1VE block D3VE heads

Rain water was in 4 cylinders.
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Hoping my heads can turn out like this
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No specific recipe to follow yet but Scotty J sure has an impressive resume and I’m sure to utilize his resources and services.
 
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WiscoF100 said:
Future reference material

The $200 hope the block isn’t cracked 460
D1VE block D3VE heads
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Hoping my heads can turn out like this
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No specific recipe to follow yet but Scotty J sure has an impressive resume and I’m sure to utilize his resources and services.
Click to expand...
Awesome, following along.
I have nearly the same recipe sitting in the corner of my shop, i hope to build another, less budget conscious, 460 again in somewhat near future.

What truck is this destined for?
 
This truck. The 351M was always a temporary power plant. The end goal was built 400 or 460.

The heads are trashed on the 351.
Sable is fading away fast.

I really need to start keeping notes because the 385 is a whole different animal than the other engine series. Many many ways to piece them together.

I don’t have a solid plan yet as that could change next time I see my Dad. I didn’t rummage through the shop and with his health you can’t really ask these questions. I’ll search around to see if he still has any DOVE blocks, heads or cobra jet, police interceptor stuff. With any luck I might incur a large freight bill?
 
That will be a nice upgrade, you plan to try porting yourself? Its really hard to ignore the chicom alum head eddy clones, that need cleanup but not much.
 
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