What did you do for your ford today?

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Summit racing had cam bearings in stock. Haven't been inside one of these for quite a while. Pretty neat
 
Pulled the motor and trans out of the marauder to replace the oil pan gasket, change the torque converter back to stock and check out the bottom end of the motor. ****ed up the radiator, forgot to unplug an a/c electrical connector and banged up an o2 sensor. Good news is the motor has some money in it. From the number on the bottom of the pistons they are DSS flat tops, ARP rod bolts and some aftermarket rods. Nothing obvious that stands out on the rocks in a metal can noise, gonna checkout the timing chains and tensioners next.
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Drove the '76 around this morning and it was a surging, lean popping piece of **** the whole time. I was real close to ordering an EFI setup by the time I got home but I settled for just pulling it and blowing the carb out. Someday maybe I'll not be a lazy ass and put good gas in it before winter.

Lubed the hood hinges while I was in there, need to get new or at least better ones, the right side is so whored out it lets the spring rub on the hood.
 
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****ed off another one! :lmao: this middle bearing is just killing me :shaking:

Took the least damaged of the two, filed down the high spots and smoother it out with 800 grit.

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Still annoyed but at least it "looks" better and I didn't really do anything beyond the edge
 
Dropped the tank on the Probe to fix the rusted out lines. Just used soft line and zip tied it to the not rusted out section of old line so that it made the proper Z bend. ****ing ******ed design. If they had done it just about any other way I wouldn't have had to drop the tank. Thankfully no snapped hardware.
 
Hand honing just wasn't doing it, using the old camshaft as a reamer did the trick

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Started off with the 1 I knew was tight, worked to the next one. After those two, I had about a third left and couldn't see which bearing, ended up cutting them all. One slice but non on the same line. Bearings that were good didn't seem to get cut at all, should've just done all of them from the start. Realistically, 3 rotations was all any of them needed. Used regular motor oil instead of anything heavier.

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4/5 gave up some material, 2/5 gave up a good amount.

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Old shaft spins about 2.5-5lbs.

Installed new shaft with assembly lube/sticky grease. It now begins motion at 10-12.5lbs and rotates at 5-7.5lbs. Just about the max I can do by hand with the sprocket to get it starred and feels smooth while spinning.

Feels like it should now :rasta: guess now I know if it happens again.
 
5/8-18 oil galley plug front of engine behind cam timing gear.

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Chopped the bolt length to under 0.400" so that it cannot reach the big drain back at the end of the threaded port. Used a copper crush washer, probably doesn't matter. Cut the head of the bolt into a square to clear the timing gear.

Wasn't in the freeze plug and oil plug set I'd bought.
 
Usually those are just pipe plugs.
Maybe. Not this one:laughing: all the others were

I went so far as to pull the stocker out of the side by the fuel pump amd attempt to install it. Nope.

Wife walked out when I was digging around for a 3/8 pipe thread tap, she tried the crank bolt and it fit :homer:

More work but less cost than going to 3/8NPT, turns out I don't have the tap at the house
 
Got the 250 back without a new windshield.

Guy called me up today ' hey uh, yea, I poked around under the trim with a pick and it's really soft under there. We're not going to be able to help you with this"


Got it home, did some looking, there was some dead leaves in that particular area. I pulled the trim back a little bit and was able to flick it all out with a pick. Grabbed a light and was able to clean the area up, there's still factory paint under there.

Called another place in the next town over and had a pleasant interaction. "We'll put the windshield in unless there's so much missing that it just wouldn't make any sense".

So scheduled with them for Friday. And they are $100 cheaper right off the bat.

And since I pulled one of the clearance lights off the roof to check up there, I replaced them all with new oe ones I acquired a while back, and found this:

Just put the new terminals on top of the old ones and packing taped them together

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Got the 250 back without a new windshield.

Guy called me up today ' hey uh, yea, I poked around under the trim with a pick and it's really soft under there. We're not going to be able to help you with this"


Got it home, did some looking, there was some dead leaves in that particular area. I pulled the trim back a little bit and was able to flick it all out with a pick. Grabbed a light and was able to clean the area up, there's still factory paint under there.

Called another place in the next town over and had a pleasant interaction. "We'll put the windshield in unless there's so much missing that it just wouldn't make any sense".

So scheduled with them for Friday. And they are $100 cheaper right off the bat.

And since I pulled one of the clearance lights off the roof to check up there, I replaced them all with new oe ones I acquired a while back, and found this:

Just put the new terminals on top of the old ones and packing taped them together

PXL_20250421_210921830.jpg
Safelite you say?
 
Got the 250 back without a new windshield.

Guy called me up today ' hey uh, yea, I poked around under the trim with a pick and it's really soft under there. We're not going to be able to help you with this"


Got it home, did some looking, there was some dead leaves in that particular area. I pulled the trim back a little bit and was able to flick it all out with a pick. Grabbed a light and was able to clean the area up, there's still factory paint under there.

Called another place in the next town over and had a pleasant interaction. "We'll put the windshield in unless there's so much missing that it just wouldn't make any sense".

So scheduled with them for Friday. And they are $100 cheaper right off the bat.

And since I pulled one of the clearance lights off the roof to check up there, I replaced them all with new oe ones I acquired a while back, and found this:

Just put the new terminals on top of the old ones and packing taped them together

PXL_20250421_210921830.jpg
My friend had similar issue on her 99 Tacoma. Windshield shop removed the windshield then said had too much rust and couldn't put a new one back in. I wire wheeled the surface rust off, Painted it with some white epoxy spray paint then they glued in a new one the next day.
 
Yea first shop was Safelite. They did fine with the much newer vehicles though.
Interesting, going to give them a go with my 2001 f250 leaking at windshield seal based on a guys experience I read about on fte. Tried local place but they want more $. I have little to no hope, but a plan.
 
Interesting, going to give them a go with my 2001 f250 leaking at windshield seal based on a guys experience I read about on fte. Tried local place but they want more $. I have little to no hope, but a plan.

The independent place i am going to next was $100 cheaper, and no stupid gimmicks to get a discount.

With safelite, if you do a quote online and dont confirm it, in a day or 2 they'll send you a $50 discount.

But they also add a $50 recycling fee that isnt really mentioned..
 
My private party windshield places locally are always much cheaper than safelite. They wanted like $324 for my matrix windshield and local best auto glass did it for $175 installed and had window in stock and did it same day, drove there, they did it while I waited the 45 min
 
The independent place i am going to next was $100 cheaper, and no stupid gimmicks to get a discount.

With safelite, if you do a quote online and dont confirm it, in a day or 2 they'll send you a $50 discount.

But they also add a $50 recycling fee that isnt really mentioned..
Yup, I learned. Local windshield place here was still $50 more than **** lite after their bull**** disposal fee and their "discount". Well see what happens..
 
Pulled the motor and trans out of the marauder to replace the oil pan gasket, change the torque converter back to stock and check out the bottom end of the motor. ****ed up the radiator, forgot to unplug an a/c electrical connector and banged up an o2 sensor. Good news is the motor has some money in it. From the number on the bottom of the pistons they are DSS flat tops, ARP rod bolts and some aftermarket rods. Nothing obvious that stands out on the rocks in a metal can noise, gonna checkout the timing chains and tensioners next.

Took the trans to a rebuilder and showed him the video. He said there’s a small chance something in the trans it could be but he’s gonna pull it apart and check. Then me and a buddy pulled the motor apart. We found all the mains looked new, pistons were standard bore flat tops but the Summit rods were tight on the wrist pins. They weren’t doing a lot of floating.
 
Took the trans to a rebuilder and showed him the video. He said there’s a small chance something in the trans it could be but he’s gonna pull it apart and check. Then me and a buddy pulled the motor apart. We found all the mains looked new, pistons were standard bore flat tops but the Summit rods were tight on the wrist pins. They weren’t doing a lot of floating.
Are they supposed to be floating? I'm running non floating rods and the pistons can be either way, just remove the wrist pin locks, if installed
 
Bought another one couldn't say no to a cheap 2014 f250 with a 6.2 thats a bit cosmetically challenged.
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I like that! I'd totally drive that every day, especially where I live. You really can't/shouldn't try to have anything nice...
 
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