Build Tacoma 4500 build

Rear housing showed up and I got a ton of brackets and stuff for it cut and welded. Rest of the bearings and races showed up for the hubs minus one seal so put them together and just waiting on the brake stuff.

Housing will use equal length shafts. Oil pan from kevko also showed up and pretty happy with it.
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Housing cut to length. I went back and forth and equal length shafts or a centered pinion but ultimately decided equal length. Shortened the short side of the truss to match. It creates a shear point in the tube but I need clearance for the brakes so once all that’s on I’ll make a small extension. Spindles need some more chamfer and a few plug welds and they’ll be ready to go in forever. I liked the upper link mount but I only cut it out of 3/16 and got it a little hot welding so cut another one with some overlay plates which I’ll get welded up this week. Not sure if I should do a top truss as well or just the backbone.

Goal was 68 7/8 for wms for the rear since the front is 69 and think I nailed it. Axle shafts ended up around 38.5.
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broken4_racing said:
Looks awesome! Is there a reason for going to a spindle vs something like a superduty/spidertrax hub?
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My other truck is all kingpin/spindle stuff so to have spares was just easier to copy those axles. I probably should have just done 99-04 stuff but when I started I was set on matching my crawler to have spare parts
 
Shocks came. My dads coming down this week to give me a hand as well so hopefully get the front on its own weight

And on the topic of shocks, I reached out to radflo and they stepped up to help me out big time. Looking forward to working with them and getting the car to work really well. Plan is to run the front shocks angled back about 20 degrees and in some after talking to broken4_racing. I wanted to do 25 degrees but I think that’ll cause issues later on for my setup and packaging.

2.5x14 4tube remote resis bypasses and 2.0x14 remote resi coilover.

One box of braniks goodies also showed up. Using their kingpin brake setup

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mobil1syn said:
send em back to radflo and tell them this is bush league stuff and replace it with a sweeping 90
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That seems a bit extreme :lmao:
Is it ideal? No, but I don't see it making a huge difference once they are tuned. My bypasses have sweeping tubes, but I also switched to -12 resi feeds.
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It's worth calling around and asking about the sweeping 90 and bigger resi feeds for axle mounted shocks, and related shaft speeds. A few $ now to change, but then you built your car with the tight clearances for everything.

My radflos came with swept 90's and I didn't custom order anything.
 
Opiebennett said:
It's worth calling around and asking about the sweeping 90 and bigger resi feeds for axle mounted shocks, and related shaft speeds. A few $ now to change, but then you built your car with the tight clearances for everything.

My radflos came with swept 90's and I didn't custom order anything.
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I sent them an email about swapping to sweeping 90s to see what they say. They asked if I wanted larger resi hoses and I said no at the time. If that ends up being an issue I’ll see about changing them later.
 
Malburg114 said:
I sent them an email about swapping to sweeping 90s to see what they say. They asked if I wanted larger resi hoses and I said no at the time. If that ends up being an issue I’ll see about changing them later.
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Changing to swept 90's will be a weld on and re-hone, resi hose size dependant. to go bigger later is another weld on and re hone, and re plate the shock body, and probably a new end cap for the resi.

If you send them in for swept 90's, the bigger hoses shouldn't be much of a boost in cost.
 
5 long days of putting in work with my dad and we got a ton done I feel. The front is cycled and pretty much done and ready to be welded. I got the front lower shock mounts welded and tacd back on and working on the final version of the front upper shock mounts. My dad was able to knock out most the brace tubes and notch the frame for bumpstops. We cycled it a bunch and I can lift the axle up and down by hand through the travel so no binding so far. Once i finish the upper shock mounts ill pull the axle and start finish welding it and bracing everything. Last things to do on the front once i get the uppers made is bump stop pads and get the cans tacd in place. We also plotted out how to start the rear as well but I want to get the front done to a point so i can put it on its own weight and turn it around.
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Little bit of time today. Got the shock mounts done. Not really a fan of how I did them because of how complicated the mounts turned out to be but they’re done. I then started welding out the front and pulled the axle to fully weld it. Not the best welder when it comes to tube but maybe by the end I’ll be decent.
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More axle welding. It’s back under the car to get the panhard hard tacd since I erased my marks by accident.

Redid the front tube as it was pretty close to the ram bolts and clamps and worried about it getting smashed. And made it flow into the housing which looks way better. Besides the panhard and bump pads, front axle is done
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Bump pads are in. Panhard is welded. Few more plates for support and front axle will be done. Getting close to turning it around and starting on the rear. Driver side is a piece of the axle housing so 3.5x.25 and then has a piece of 2x.25 in the middle welded to the cap.
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gt1guy said:
How much of the bump stop travel is used up in full articulation?
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It’s a 4 in bump currently and at full articulation there’s 2-2 1/8 of shaft showing. So roughly 2”. Big downside to the bumps being mounted so far inboard but there’s no room outside the frame.
 
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