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What did you do for your ford today?

JR4X said:
Have you ever adjusted the valve lash on that? They are manually adjustable with feeler guages.
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Yeah, that was the first thing we tried. A couple were loose but we snuged them up and it still ran like ****. I parked it where it sits like 4 years ago so we will probably have to rediscover some things now that I'm back on it
 
Picked up a lightly used TKO 600, Spec clutch, etc for the mustang. Also swapping out the BBK long tubes for mac shorty headers that actually fit the car and the GT40P heads.

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Got the exhaust done on the 78 F150 (updated build thread with images).

Pulled the doors off the 67 Bronco and started drilling the rusty bolts to get the hinges off. Ended up with three rusted bolts that got stuck in total. The first one I must have been off center because a crescent shape of the thread is still stuck in the hole. Ordered a nice 5/16-18 tap from McMaster-Carr to hopefully clean that up. Otherwise, helicoil it is I guess.

While doing that I saw that the brand new proportioning valve leaked out (as well as a wheel cylinder in the rear) so I'll replace that POS with a Wildwood adjustable valve, and fix the leaky wheel cylinder.
 
Looks like the little 1310 has two bad injectors. Still might be a compression issue but one step at a time. Hopefully the shop can get a better price than i can find cause all I've seen is 150 per injector
 
Provience said:
1989 Lincoln mark vii lsc teves abs hydraulic booster delete.

Just in case somebody searches the internet for all that nonsense. 1994 mustang gt booster/master cylinder is not a drop in replacement:laughing:

Stock starring point

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This was a bear to get removed, upside down fittings, lots of wiring no real space to go forward

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There isn't much space there and the wiring and lines runnig across leave room to be desired

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Lots of hammering on the shock tower, it eventually let the booster clear. Went ahead and just removed the 4th stud, only 1 was out of spec.

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Tucks in there pretty tight

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Master mounts up easy enough, rid of the ABS module, reusing the residual valve for the rears, curious if I need to add a combo or prop valve. Still need a 3 way t fitting to tie the fronts together

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Will know more next weekend :laughing:
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Good combo, seems to work well and easy pedal. Going to see what happens commuting with it
 
Otherwise, not really much :laughing: bought a handful of things from summit. Talked myself into getting new head bolts and a matching set of spark plug wires

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Still need the camshaft to show up, but there might be a chance the stock cover clear. That'd be neat.

Should be getting the rotating assembly together right now, just enjoying sitting I'm the garage and listening to music instead
 
Light day, been feeling awful since Friday. I feel better after working on the truck, go figure right?

Burned Larry a music CD so I could test speakers. All is well after tweaking one connector whose silicone liner was catching/disconnecting. I hope I can keep the stock deck, and that the current flat sound is from sucky speakers. If not I may look for a later OEM deck.

C/C switches are done too. The air bag did not deploy. For all I know it can't. 🤣
 
The driver side windshield wiper in my first Gen Expedition quit moving, very abruptly. I thought maybe it was a piece of linkage that fell off in the cowl or something. Well, after digging into it, it appears the wiper arm isn't splined, only the tapered stud coming out of the cowl is splined. Well, the nut I guess was loose. I spent a few minutes with a carbide tipped tool digging the aluminum out of the splines on the shaft, and then reinstalling the arm in the proper posish. Figured I mazel do the passenger one too, and it was about to do the same thing. Just an interesting failure mode, hadn't experienced that before. Most of my Ford experience is with 80-96 style trucks, and that system is pretty worry-free....

My Helper:
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My boy and I popped in the front speakers. Going from 26yo oem to new speakers is as expected.

Also as expected on an old truck, the lock rod clip in the driver door gave up. My 12yo son was staring at it and came up with this since he had the zip tie bag in hand from eariler. He's moved on from staring into space to staring at what I'm doing, to handing me tools to asking if he can do the work. 🤣 This might become 'our truck'.

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The snotlike substance is fluid film. While we were in there we shot the window mechanism and moved on to all four locks/hinges/limiters/handles and the ebrake pedal bits.

One unexpected thing I need to do is figure out the spare wheel situation. All that's under the bed is 5" of destroyed steel cable caught in a bracket. Ebay to the rescue for a wheel and I'll figure out the mount at the last minute as per usual.
 
Got the new injectors in the 1310. It did start but ran really rough. Backfiring missing smoking. I think it had air in the line but it wouldn't start after I bled them again and the battery was getting weak. I think it might have a bad head gasket. Ordered a compression test kit so I'll check that out next. The injectors were definitely bad so it's not money wasted fortunately.
 
Soldered the resistors on the trip computer. Works fine now. Off to do rear speakers.

In the yt vid I used for reference the author mentioned it as an extra precaution against future separations mechanically and as a heat spreading compound. Anyone have an opinion on potting the resistors in with epoxy such as jb weld?

Edit: After some reading up I'll leave it be. The other chips look fine and the two that came off did so a year ago per the PO so I figure I'll probably never be in there again.
 
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I was turning around at our local log yard after dropping off my son at the bus stop and it occurred to me to drive across their scales in my F150. It’s a 2018 5.0/10 speed 4wd supercrew. I have roughly 100 pounds of tools/misc in it. It has an ADD winch bumper with a 9 or 10k winch and synthetic rope. I weigh 200 lbs. it scaled at 5400 pounds which probably translates to under 5k without the added weight.

That seems low to me. I guess it is the aluminum
 
Picked up a TTB Delete Starter Kit over the weekend. Scored a 88-92 Ford Kingpin 60 on FB Marketplace for real cheap. Now I just need to decide how/if I want to build it for my trail Explorer. Thinking about narrowing it a few inches (I already have a full width crawler, don't need another) and machining the hubs to 5x5.5 but the other part of me doesn't want to ruin it :laughing:

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Brian1 said:
Picked up a TTB Delete Starter Kit over the weekend. Scored a 88-92 Ford Kingpin 60 on FB Marketplace for real cheap. Now I just need to decide how/if I want to build it for my trail Explorer. Thinking about narrowing it a few inches (I already have a full width crawler, don't need another) and machining the hubs to 5x5.5 but the other part of me doesn't want to ruin it :laughing:

Dana60.jpg
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Nice Score! Did it come with the unobtainium driver side leaf spring u-bolt plate? I hear there is a company selling machined u-bolt plates now, but they used to be unobtainium... Guess if you're putting it in an explorer, it's probably getting coil overs anyway.
 
landen300 said:
Nice Score! Did it come with the unobtainium driver side leaf spring u-bolt plate? I hear there is a company selling machined u-bolt plates now, but they used to be unobtainium... Guess if you're putting it in an explorer, it's probably getting coil overs anyway.
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No it didn't unfortunately. The trackbar was the only thing left bolted to it. The guy did have them somewhere because it was still all bolted together in the ad photos. It was already pulled and on a forklift when I got there and I didn't stick around long enough for him to realize he could have added $800 to his price for just the axle. And yes, I'll be using coil overs most likely.
 
DMG said:
I was turning around at our local log yard after dropping off my son at the bus stop and it occurred to me to drive across their scales in my F150. It’s a 2018 5.0/10 speed 4wd supercrew. I have roughly 100 pounds of tools/misc in it. It has an ADD winch bumper with a 9 or 10k winch and synthetic rope. I weigh 200 lbs. it scaled at 5400 pounds which probably translates to under 5k without the added weight.

That seems low to me. I guess it is the aluminum
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I looked it up when they came out,
A strip down standard cab Al f150 weighs about what a 1996 same configuration weighs.
 
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