Build Tacoma 4500 build

ridered3 · Feb 14, 2025

Malburg114 looks like an awesome trip and even cooler that you got to do it with your dad!

Cage progress is looking good too.

DocRamsay · Feb 14, 2025

Malburg114 said:
When I got metal for the trailer I picked up another stick of 2” dom. The cage main tube still bothered me so spent some time redoing that and extremely happy with it now. That pretty much used a hole stick so I’ll get some more material next week and work on something else in the meantime.

Loving the engine placement, out of curiosity, how tall are you? I'm getting very tempted to do the same on mine.

Malburg114 · Feb 14, 2025

DocRamsay said:
Loving the engine placement, out of curiosity, how tall are you? I'm getting very tempted to do the same on mine.

Like me personally? I’m 5’10”.

DocRamsay · Feb 14, 2025

Malburg114 said:
Like me personally? I’m 5’10”.

Yeah, I'm 6'4" and if I place the engine that far back I might put my seat in the back 🤣

Malburg114 · Feb 14, 2025

DocRamsay said:
Yeah, I'm 6'4" and if I place the engine that far back I might put my seat in the back 🤣

I think im going to put the fuel cell in the extra cab portion and filler out one of the extra cab windows so I’ll build the b pillar just behind the door frame to give me a little more room. This should allow me set the seat just behind the door frame as well. Extra cab portion will be useless for the most part due to the cage

Malburg114 · Feb 14, 2025

I did some stuff for a buddy and some house projects so only got the c pillar done today and now I’m out of tubing. I’ll pick up some more this week after work and continue on the cage next week. Also slapped the headers on just cause and the driver clears but passenger v band gets into the motor mount. May have to find a different set.

Wendle · Feb 14, 2025

Worth just re-making that mount offset forward a bit? They look like a great fit other than that...

Malburg114 · Feb 14, 2025

Wendle said:
Worth just re-making that mount offset forward a bit? They look like a great fit other than that...

Maybe. There was a lot of waste making that passenger mount with the bend to clear the upper link at full bump. I’ll wait and see if anything else will be in the way of these headers. I’ll hold them up to each other next time I’m in the garage but seems the driver is offset farther back than the passenger which is odd.

Malburg114 · Feb 15, 2025

Was just going to have a lazy day but reading forums and looking at pictures decided to go out and mess with the panhard for a little bit. I’ve been putting off adding bends to the panhard and ended up adding (2) 12 degree bends on either side where the ram ends as at full bump the panhard hits the ram. I then notched the passenger side from for the panhard bracket to go into and draglink to go into. Regret putting it off as it worked well and now everything clears. 12 degrees may have been a little much and I can probably get away with 6-10 which I’ll try later. But this will allow me to lower the axle side panhard some as well so it’s not a giant lever. The draglink just barely gets into the bolts on the ram so I either need to move the steering box forward a 1/4-1/2 inch or add a bend. Not sure adding a bend will solve my issue but I may try it just to see.

And the upper link ends up getting into the headers so I’ll have to do something about that.

What’s everyone’s thoughts on offsetting the frame side panhard mount back as right now my limiting factor is the frame side panhard heim is hitting the tie rod.

Malburg114 · Feb 21, 2025

Picked up more dom and got the c pillar knocked out and made a dash bar. Posted some pictures on Instagram and had a guy message me asking what happened if I swapped the a pillars side to side to minimize the gap between the sheet metal. I ended up doing it and made a big difference. Good chance I got them mixed up when I had them out last so I swapped them and made a big difference. Ended up tacking them back in after swapping them but need to make a new dash bar.

I think I’m over complicating the cage with to many bends. I have plans probably after the roof and b and c pillars get beat to cut them off and maybe even just run a hood and fenders and bedsides. So to simplify the cage, try to do a flat roof “x” and minimal bends so it doesn’t look goofy with the roof off.

I also got a set of prp seats my parents got me for Christmas a few years ago installed in the other crawler. Think they turned out good. Just waiting on harnesses. The harness bar is against the rear wall under the window.

First picture is before. 2nd picture is after.

ridered3 · Feb 21, 2025

Cage is coming together nicely but understandable on being your own worst/hardest critic!

Malburg114 · Feb 28, 2025

Spent the last 2 days messing with the cage. Wasn’t planning to add as many bends to the roof bars but it was needed to get the headroom and still be able to see. Still need to do one more bar down the middle in the back and the intrusion bars but I’ll wait till I screw up something and have some waste.

Next I want to get the seats mounted so I can do the b pillar. Plan is to run a bar between the an and b pillar and then run some tubes towards the trans but stop them short with some supports off the subframe. The trans needs to come out of the door so trying to make it easy ish to get out. Was originally going run tubes over the trans and atlas but my dad suggested just stopping them short.

Also ordered rhe shocks.. think I’ll order a rear housing so I can start on that while I wait for the shocks.

Malburg114 · Mar 2, 2025

Couple questions as I need to order a bunch of parts so I’ll do a few different posts.

First question is gearing/atlas ratio.

Pretty set on 5.43 axle gears and a 3.0:1 atlas but still considering a 3.8:1. Goal obviously is to race koh and a few races here and there depending on funds but truck will also just be a rock crawler etc. 5.3/th350 and 37 on tires. 28-3000 stall.

Crawl ratios:
3.0/5.43-41
3.8/5.43-52
3.0/5.13-38
3.8/5.13-49

I’m pretty set on the 3.0 and 5.43s but considering the 3.8 and 5.13s. Any real world input on the ratios? A 4 speed is out of the budget. Is a 40 crawl ratio to high for “technical” stuff at sand hollow and moab and jv but is 52 to low for racing? Is there even enough difference I’ll notice it.

Malburg114 · Mar 2, 2025

Next question is on the engine.

It’s just a gen 3 5.3. Plan is stock bottom end. Stock crank/rods/pistons. New bearings and rings.

Plan is to buy a set of heads from summit racing. But open to suggestions CHEVROLET Chevy small block Gen III/IV (LS-based engines) Summit Racing Cylinder Heads Cylinder Heads Engines & Components - Free Shipping on Orders Over $109 at Summit Racing

I bought a comp cam nsr drift cam 233/243 without knowing much if anything about cams (and still don’t) along with a set of springs (both linked below).

Cam

NSR Drift 233/243 Hydraulic Roller Cam

The NSR (No Springs Required) Drift Cam for GM 4.8-5.7 LS is a drop in Camshaft upgrade designed to wake up smaller displacement LS's and provide a wide, usable power increase for the grassroots enthusiast.

www.compcams.com

Springs

0.575" Max Lift LS6+ Beehive Valve Spring Kit with Chromemoly Steel Retainers

The COMP Cams 0.575" Lift Beehive LS6+ Valve Springs are now available in complete valve spring kits that allow for easy Installation on popular LS Applications.

www.compcams.com

Is this a decent setup? Goal isn’t crazy high hp. Just something reliable that’ll scoot through the desert. I know some of the summit heads come with springs so I wouldn’t need the ones I bought but could always sell them. Is this a cam I should be running?

I was going to run a ls2/6 intake for clearance reasons and probably a 92mm throttle body. An aeromotive regulator with return port. (Recommendations?)

This fuel pump with a spare plumbed side by side

Pierburg 7.21659.72.0 Insulated Electric Fuel Injection Fuel Pump 5/8" Inlet 10mm-1.0 Outlet On Top - Kartek Off-Road

Pierburg 7.21659.72.0 Insulated Electric Fuel Injection Fuel Pump 5/8" Inlet 10mm-1.0 Outlet On Top for offroad racing in the King of the Hammers, New Zealand Taupo 1000, Dakar Rally, Tatts Finke Desert Race, Score International Baja 500 or Baja 1000, NORRA 500, NORRA Mexican 1000, Mint 400...

www.kartek.com

Plan is this kevko oil pan as it’s about the same price as buying a cast pan and adding a baffle system but same thing. Open to ideas.

LS1002 F-BodyOff Road/Road Race 5

Pan Depth: 5"Pan Capacity: 6 Quarts (5.7 Liters)System Capacity: 7 Quarts (6.6 Liters)Description: 11" Long, 8-3/8" Wide, 5" Deep Rear Sump. 1-3/4" Front Depth. Designed for the F-Body but primarily used in the Off-Road Racing world. Features a Diamond gate design that forces oil through the...

kevkoracing.com

What returnless fuel rails are recommended?
What lifters? Anything else I’m missing?

I have very limited knowledge as I’ve never built an ls before and the information is a little overwhelming.

Malburg114 · Mar 2, 2025

And the last question is reference the high pinion front 3rd. Same thing. Excuse my ignorance as I’ve never done a hp or really any gears before but my dad has done some gear installs.

I have the case from gw and a Yukon zip locker. I know the case will need to be clearanced some for the zip and I’ll order the gears from gw but do I just use a regular 9” install kit? This is everything I think I need from the gw website but I’m not entirely sure. I emailed them and left a voicemail just waiting to hear back.

Parts I think I need:
1350 yoke
10” pinion support (can I use any pinion support or is theirs the better one to use)
Pinion shim set
35 spline pinion nut
3.250 Carrier bearing set
Load bolt
35 spline pinion bearing set
Ring gear bolts
Gears

Am I missing anything? And is there an install kit I can get from east coast gear supply or Yukon?

WiscoF100 · Mar 2, 2025

Cage work is looking good.

Following for auto crawl ratios since I’m pencilling that out for mine.

Boomtacoma01 · Mar 3, 2025

I may be looking at selling my GW HP 10 if you are interested. 1350 yoke, 5.43, spool and 40 spline set up to use in the rear.

Only reason is that I'm looking to go with the 6.20 gears and going with a Atlas 2 instead of a 4 speed. Its brand new rebuilt from GW and has only been mocked up.

Malburg114 · Mar 4, 2025

Boomtacoma01 said:
I may be looking at selling my GW HP 10 if you are interested. 1350 yoke, 5.43 and 40 spline set up to use in the rear.

Only reason is that I'm looking to go with the 6.20 gears and going with an Atlas 2 instead of a 4 speed. Its brand new rebuilt from GW and has only been mocked up.

If it wasn’t 40 spline I’d be interested. Sticking with 35 spline

Malburg114 · Mar 7, 2025

Seat mounts have been kicking my ass. Sadly this took me two days and still not done. Trying to find something functional, looks good and allows my head to clear the cage has been a challenge but think I finally got it. Literally as low as they can go with the atlas. Should have maybe lowered the subframe some more but it’s done.

Malburg114 · Mar 7, 2025

As for the atlas and gear ratio I settled on a 3.0:1 atlas and 5.43 axle gears. I ordered the atlas this week and should be here in April.

Gumbybronco · Mar 8, 2025

Can you drop the rear of the seat mount a little? Like an inch.
I find it a little more comfortable and it gives a little more headroom.

Malburg114 · Mar 8, 2025

Gumbybronco said:
Can you drop the rear of the seat mount a little? Like an inch.
I find it a little more comfortable and it gives a little more headroom.

The seat has a natural angle to them towards the back. The driver I set to how I like which is just a few degrees back from 0 (3-4*) while the passenger I did 5-6* back. I’ll leave it all tacd till I get the floor and steering and pedals in and until my dad can sit in the passenger seat to make sure it’s how he likes it since he’ll most likely be riding with me. I can always lay them back more if need be.

It was hard finding a medium between head room, being able to see and being comfortable but I think it’s close

Malburg114 · Mar 8, 2025

Got the driver seat mounts in and adjusted the passenger a little more. Started making the harness bar till the hole saw stripped out on the arbor of the notcher so called it a night. Short day but happy to have the seats hopefully done.

ridered3 · Mar 12, 2025

Looking good and pretty cool to read that your dad will be riding with you!

Malburg114 · Mar 13, 2025

Thoughts on door bars? Most likely keeping the doors for now. I originally planned to run door bars similar to a buggy but after looking at pictures of the 4600 broncos and other full body Ultra4 cars seems that’s necessary? Something like what I drew would be easier to get in and out of. Blue is kind of the minimum I was thinking. I could run the extra green bar to tie the dead tube into where the dash bar and a pillar intercept. Thoughts?

Boomtacoma01 · Mar 13, 2025

I like the design. Definitely wait to put them in until you have the interior further along. Im working around welded in door bars now in the buggy and it is tough for a fat kid.

mobil1syn · Mar 13, 2025

you got to get those seats lower. your body will move a lot in those seats and even more if you yard sale.

Malburg114 · Mar 13, 2025

mobil1syn said:
you got to get those seats lower. your body will move a lot in those seats and even more if you yard sale.

As low as they can go. Sitting on top of the atlas essentially. Cushion should settle 2 or more inches and if they don’t I’ll cut some out of them. Maybe when the real atlas comes in I can lower them some more but unlikely.

Opiebennett · Mar 13, 2025

You can cut the tabs off the seat frames and make different attachments. You can modify the seat frames for the car as well to get around the t case or whatever.

It's like 3/4x095 wall tube, no magic to it.

gt1guy · Mar 14, 2025

All you need between the seat and the TC is enough room to install the floor pan sheet metal.
I kind of ran into the same issue on my pile. I kept thinking I needed room for air flow around the TC, you name it, I thought of everything. Then I realized the tight spot I was worked up about..............was actually ~a couple square inches. I ended up with a small pocket in the floor that's about 1/4" from the TC.

Malburg114 said:
Thoughts on door bars? Most likely keeping the doors for now. I originally planned to run door bars similar to a buggy but after looking at pictures of the 4600 broncos and other full body Ultra4 cars seems that’s necessary? Something like what I drew would be easier to get in and out of. Blue is kind of the minimum I was thinking. I could run the extra green bar to tie the dead tube into where the dash bar and a pillar intercept. Thoughts?

No idea what the rules say but, another thought................just don't use 4" tube like I did in Paint :flipoff2:

One last thing.

Having that Hz bar tie the bottom of the B-pillar verticals together will help the B stay put.

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