What did you do for your ford today?

New steering stabilizers -fabtech , drop pitman arm , drop track bar bracket installed on the excursion, next up is the longer brake lines and new shocks .
 

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I plugged it in for about an hour and a half, started it up and went and pulled three rigs out of snow banks .

Edit: that picture was taken about 3 days ago before we have the two feet of snow we have meow .
 

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New steering stabilizers -fabtech , drop pitman arm , drop track bar bracket installed on the excursion, next up is the longer brake lines and new shocks .
New shocks for the excursion, sky jacker hydro 7000 , seem way better than the nitrogen shocks
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Actually yesterday but…

I installed the S&S disaster prevention kit, and Pusher upper/lower intake plenum.

Have hot & cold side tubes on the way.

Still undecided on cold air intake. Any recommendations, I’m stock turbo,injectors and tune?

Already did CCV reroute, and want to delete the EGR system but I’m deadly afraid to break those bolts. I’m not all that talented and equipped to do that repair.


ETA:
The main reason for this work:
I had small coolant leaks at crossover pipe and turbo coolant line.
When I made that repair I suspected vacuum leak at the plastic intake plenum. Sealing the seams with silicone confirmed I had a vacuum leak.
So I ordered the aftermarket stuff.

Been wanting to do this stuff forever but something always became more financially demanding.
The leaks forced my hand.

2015 superduty w/210 thousand miles.

If anyone has a guaranteed way to remove those bolts I’d love to know the trick.
 

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Marathon of neglected maintenance and wish list items on my $500 Mercury Sable-Duty

Water pump with 239,000 miles started to seize up. So along with that I wanted a block heater, replace thermostat and flush the system while I was at it.

Other items were heater blend door motor, dome light and starter. OG starter was fine until sub zero temps then it would kinda act up.

Ahhh yes the ol steel plug in an aluminum block trick. Damn it Jim
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What?!?!?
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No way?!?!?!? ****s sake
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Victory! Pile of used up parts
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If you know, you know.

So yea, after the work the other day.

Today I replaced this.

Needed it ASAP (daily driver, work tomorrow)
So I was at the mercy of my local ford counter.
$155 before tax

Least they could make it out of metal so it doesn’t break with the slightest bump.
 

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On the way into Key Largo the voltage gauge started dropping and coming back up. I dont totally trust the cluster in a 17 year old van but it was making a whistling noise too so i replaced the alternator at the Key Largo Kampground. Didnt take long. My neighbor with the Tesla tent thing seemed disturbed by it but i assured him this was normal.
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If anyone has a guaranteed way to remove those bolts I’d love to know the trick.
I broke those bolts pretty much immediately, and with minimal force when I did my old 6.7.

Tried the weld on a nut thing, didn't work.

Tried a lefty drill bit and then promptly snapped off the e-z out.

I ended up just using my plasma cutter (chinesium amazon unit). I got the torch as vertical as possible, and did a series of zaps. Zap, check the depth, Zap, check depth, and so on...

After I melted out the hard as **** bolt and e-z out, and had the depth correct, I simply drilled the cast manifold to size and tapped for a heli-coil, and that worked fine for years.
 
Pm's - oil, filter, tire rotate, lubed front axle joints, washer fluid. Appears the motorcraft filter came apart a little, some pieces of the media glue were sucked into the media. No pics because cutting open oil filters is a ****in mess. 55k miles and my 2020 7.3 time bomb still kicking

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not sure if the two oils were same or not but dont care. Switching back to walmart 5w-30 cause cheaper
 
Fired up the 6.0 after a really cold spell and installed a new rear bumper on my 01 F250.
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Nice bumper, but now it's possible for someone to lock you in the back if you're sleeping in there, by closing and latching those swing-outs?
 
I broke those bolts pretty much immediately, and with minimal force when I did my old 6.7.

Tried the weld on a nut thing, didn't work.

Tried a lefty drill bit and then promptly snapped off the e-z out.

I ended up just using my plasma cutter (chinesium amazon unit). I got the torch as vertical as possible, and did a series of zaps. Zap, check the depth, Zap, check depth, and so on...

After I melted out the hard as **** bolt and e-z out, and had the depth correct, I simply drilled the cast manifold to size and tapped for a heli-coil, and that worked fine for years.
I truly wish I had the place, talent, and tools to do that repair.

I could probably get though it but, it’s my daily and can’t afford to be down an extended period of time.

I do my **** outdoors in my driveway
 
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