1978 F-fun hundred 3/4 tons and 37s

Always something. As I post this, I realized the primary jet is incorrect. Should be 72. Which were drilled out from some 55s
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Pic from drilling out a 25 to 35
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Pulled the intake so I can drill out the exhaust crossover. Don’t want the heat under the carb in the summer but I can’t live without it right now.
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Changed the advance springs back to baseline for now.
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I’ve never built hot rods for sub 32* weather before. Minus 20* and beyond is humbling.
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rattle_snake said:
The flood irrigation froze at my place if that make you feel any warmer. I still rode my motorcycle to work haha.
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Enjoy the ride
Levigarrett76 said:
What is hard line connected to the passenger side valve cover?
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PCV. Runs to the core support into a home brew pvc oil vapor separator then hardline to intake runner.

The line to the intake is clean and so is the runner. Works really well.

Engine fresh air. 1/4” DOT nylon
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Runs around this big circle
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From the crankcase to the separator
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To the intake
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Plugs are all over the place. #5 gave me a clue that my pcv system had a flaw. It was plumbed into the #5 runner. Whoops that would cause a highly lean condition in that hole :homer: This manifold only has 2 locations for vacuum in the #4 & #5 runners.
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Found this date on the hood. 10/26/77
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I gave the clean side of the pcv a new profile and tied it in with the brake booster. The carb is the only plenum vacuum I have.
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Suggest one of these for the china wall. Can make perfectly consistent beads.

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Yes.
Graveyard sells only the cancel cam, fyi.

But you have already found ideal situation, don't use blinkies or be OK with one always on. It is generally accepted that old timers in old trucks drive indefinitely with blinker on while not giving a ****.
 
Guess I’ll have to change the thread ***le

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Test drive was fuggin smooth!!! Speedo was once again corrected. Confirmed by radar o’reilly

Hands off the wheel dead steady steering now. Idk what it could be but those Toyos had some bad voodoo. Strange.
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Revisiting the front windshield. Not sure if I’ll trust a glass shop or **** it up myself again.
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Just say they are 37 groundhawgs..

What backspacing are those wheels, are they vision's?
 
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smaller tires, what has this world come to?
I try to understand the benefits but I struggle with biggertireitus.

Make that glass your bitch.
 
Smaller tires, extra mufflers…..soon a home brew charcoal canister and TBI. Younger me never would’ve thought future me would come to this.

No doubt the 5” lift and 37s was the cats ass. Completely impractical at this stage. I’m a huge fan of not injuring myself getting in the truck in the ice and it fits my garage door. More giddy up now with smaller, lighter tires.

Using this website is gay without red skull.

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There’s a cool race car update next week
 
I totally get it. I absolutely wanted to buy 37s for my bronco instead of the 35s even though there was no logical reason to do so. 10 years ago I'd have bought the 37s for sure, and then did all sorts of extra work afterwards just to make them fit.
 
The 35s have really paid dividends for tuning and road manners. On 2 tests now I’ve pulled over 14mpg @ 65mph from sub 7. Cruise vacuum @ 65 over 15”.

With road manners mostly under control I’m getting a little more time tuning the carb and timing.

One major monkey on my back was the off idle stumble and off idle stumble/back fire during cornering and brake/accel events. Duck bills simply weren’t enough to control fuel so I made up my own truck style vent. Went mega high with it at about 4”. The other cure for the stumble off the light was finding the right combo of advance curve, initial timing and going ported with the advance canister.
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Must’ve had a fire during one of those backfire events and the secondaries burned for a minute :homer:
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The brakes became garbage after I tapped the pcv system into them. Sorted that out today by running the brakes into the #5 cylinder. PCV is dedicated to the throttle plate vacuum source.
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Test hits were successful. I picked up even more cruise vacuum, cured my backfire and can break the tires loose off the line with a little stall :smokin: No wheel hop
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Deceleration vacuum went from 22 to 26 with the new mods. Slowly getting this Frankenstein junk yard engine tuned up. Can’t wait to make a big mile road trip this spring. Maybe a Great Lakes circuit or run to the gulf or the Rockies. Don’t know yet.
 
Glad you got the stumbles sorted out.
What type of ign curve did you end up with? Init, total? Did you measure/plot it, or just swap springs and things?

Ported vs manifold vac debate aside, the motor doesn't like tip in with lots of timing?
 
I’m not prepared to answer that question. 🤣

Originally I was around 10-12 initial. Maybe tried 14? Centrifugal only. Stock curve. Silver/silver. Bad tip in.

Then converted to vacuum advance. Same initial but happier engine. Manifold vacuum. Same tip in issues.

A lot of tip in issues off the line were from small accelerator circuit and cam profile. Also the vent flooding issue. At speed accel issues were PV. 6.5 to 8.5 thanks to vacuum gauge. Smash the pedal at speed and she goes!

Tried an earlier advance curve but no luck. Copper/silver. A lot of videos were pushing all in by 55 or 65 mph xyz rpm. RPM at 65 is 2,700.

Tried leaning out the primary. 70/78—>68/76 Felt more crisp but the plugs were ghost white. Increased to 72/76 and headed in the right direction.

Advance curve is back to “stock” and I brought initial down to 12-10 or less. Never put a light on it. Judging by witness mark on dizzy. Became a dog. Idle became really low even on the choke/high idle. Starts were muggy. Never changed the carb settings.

Advance vacuum….well it behaved well with manifold in the early hours of the build but I’ve been chasing down so many other less than optimal tuning targets…squirter size, pump cam, PV and jetting. Then came heating the manifold. Vacuum snafus. Etc I never got warm weather tuning sessions because I was fixing the roof for glass and dialing in the steering. The engine tuning is a very slow process now with my lovely air temps. Gotta rip it down the highway for 30-45min to heat soak everything, make a change, test drive and park it because I’m out of time. My job sucks for attention to personal matters. Yet I probably work less than most people.

A debate video by “new guys garage” made it click for me. (Even though he rambles) (I’m rambling) I’ve watched thunder head, unity and vizard content but never made sense. So I advanced my initial back to where I was happy before but had massive back fire issues and went ported and wow there’s the drivability I’ve needed all along. Next I’m thinking about leaning out the secondaries and adding some more initial.
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Ah, the ported/manifold debate :emb:


What do you guys consider a good starting point for ford advance cannister? I have mine set about mid way 9-10 turns out to start.
 
Hmm. Interesting curves. The mech curve on my 76 is a log x shape.

I dunno about turns but the one I run on 351w adds 19* vac advance, for a total of 35 at idle.

Less than 30* at idle will put unburned fuel in exhaust. I guess the carb can be adjusted to compensate, but making idle lean can complicate tip in.

Do you have a wideband AFR in the truck still?
 
Sub zero temps love to ruin everything. 205 has been puking oil for the last couple of months so I finally decided to run a high vent.

In doing so, it was discovered why the speedometer was twitchy and the cold temp accuracy fell off. Apparently I secured the cable gear incorrectly with the clip upside down. I was frozen, it was dark and I was trying to wrap up the 35” tire install.

The broken cable gear managed to escape the output and embed itself on the lube device
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The clip wrecked the drive gear. Ordered a new 17tooth cable gear and replaced drive gear with a spare I had laying around
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Just because 205s are awesome
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This is more of a troll than anything. I blended the oiling ports. To be fair, there was a lot of casting ridge that I cleaned out. In hind sight, I should’ve raised the drain port to allow more return volume
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Output bearing re-packed
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Vent drilled 7/16 and tapped for 1/4 npt
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The floor sits very close so the vent tube is relatively flat until it reaches the bell housing
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Was attacking this job so I could put some road miles on and spend some time with the timing.

And then…….
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Transmission cooler output fitting completely **** the bed. Quickly backed inside and shut it down. The entire fitting assembly is tight. I don’t know if the aluminum tube, the olives or the fitting body failed. I was trying to be cool with hard lines but it’s being replaced with braided this weekend.
 
Anyone ever **** around with C6 servos? I have an R code but have since chickened out since I do not know which apply lever I have. Not pulling the pan.

Currently N code. I do have cores with both N and S. Could check N core to verify lever code but I’m curious if it’s worth the trouble of experimenting with the S code. Just for 4 bolts of trouble…..

I don’t have a problem with my shifts just curious if the juice is worth the squeeze.
 
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