Build Amphibious HEMTT

WaterH said:
The piston is all the way down and the walls look good. I’m leaning towards replacing the piston. Do they sell single pistons/rings?
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They do

WaterH said:
I’m thinking of replacing those two valves and lapping them myself. Would that be crazy?
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No, but given the damage I'd get the valve guides replaced too. And it's not the easiest thing for a random in a garage to do.
My head guy would charge $150/200 to get those done and the seats cut and I think it's worth it.
 
Bebop said:
They do


No, but given the damage I'd get the valve guides replaced too. And it's not the easiest thing for a random in a garage to do.
My head guy would charge $150/200 to get those done and the seats cut and I think it's worth it.
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I don’t have a “head guy”. I don’t trust anybody in my one horse town. I may take it to Panama City. I don’t know any machine shops down there either, but there must be some places.

One time I sent out an aircraft jug to get new valve guides in Canada. When it came back, the valves were looser than the other three jugs. When I bitched, they said it’s with in spec. I checked and it was, baerly. I couldn’t believe the spec was that loose. I honestly don’t know if it was tighter when I sent it to them. It kind of reinforced my feeling of “I don’t trust anyone”.
 
bdkw1 said:
You have a mill don't you?
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Yes, but I’ve never done it and I don’t really consider myself a machinist. Maybe if I watch some videos.

Update,

The grid heater was definitely the problem. Hard to believe this didn’t cause power problems. This is the intake side. Not sure how the pieces got through the grating.

IMG_2116.jpeg


The intercooler side.

IMG_2117.jpeg


There are 11 folds to a layer. 4 are still attached and 5 loose leaves 2 that went through the motor. If I had known this was a possibility, I would never had it.
 
The real question is, how'd they get past the exhuast side of the turbo without killing it.

You can pop guides in and out with an air hammer. Diesel head seats are easy since they are 90* to the head. Heat head, freeze guide, install. Circle indicate guide. Use boring head with appropriate angle cutter to kiss the seat and make sure it's concentric. Or just indicate it first. Lap and go.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
I have to wonder if this is what he's been chasing all along.
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I bet it is. Before the 2 missing pieces fell in the engine that stuff floating around in there had to be limiting air flow at times. One day it runs great because the pieces are pushed to one side, another day the EGTs are stupid high and the pieces are spread out and blocking most air flow.

Who's bright idea was it to put ceramic tiles in an intake and not expect this to ever be an issue? :confused:
 
bdkw1 said:
The real question is, how'd they get past the exhuast side of the turbo without killing it.
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The piston conveniently smashed them up into digestible pieces and the one piece that was still large enough to **** it up got caught in the exhaust valve where the piston smacking the valve helped further break it up. :laughing:
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
I bet it is. Before the 2 missing pieces fell in the engine that stuff floating around in there had to be limiting air flow at times. One day it runs great because the pieces are pushed to one side, another day the EGTs are stupid high and the pieces are spread out and blocking most air flow.

Who's bright idea was it to put ceramic tiles in an intake and not expect this to ever be an issue? :confused:
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It’s not ceramic. It’s just metal folded back and forth. The curves ride in some ceramic insulators. I guess vibration eventually grinds them into pieces.
 
In one of Gale Banks recent videos pimping one of his new intakes, it deletes the grid heater also. Apparently the new ones like to yeet bolts down the intake. So it's kind of an ongoing issue.
 
Cowboy63b said:
WaterH give me the ESN and ill look up parts for you.

If I'm not mistaken, the 1.0 is 1MM overbore, which is a sign Cummins has remanned it already, and if they did, I can see it through Quickserve.
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It is a reman in 04.

IMG_2120.jpeg


I measured the bore with a cheap pair of calipers and got 4.02” which is supposed to be stock. But I welcome you checking.
 
Dont fix or change what isnt broken with an old engine. If you dont have a head guy you trust look for a reman head they should be cheap. Id even consider cleaning up that piston and running it with some new rings if everyrhing else looks good.
 
WaterH said:
I don’t have a “head guy”. I don’t trust anybody in my one horse town. I may take it to Panama City. I don’t know any machine shops down there either, but there must be some places.

One time I sent out an aircraft jug to get new valve guides in Canada. When it came back, the valves were looser than the other three jugs. When I bitched, they said it’s with in spec. I checked and it was, baerly. I couldn’t believe the spec was that loose. I honestly don’t know if it was tighter when I sent it to them. It kind of reinforced my feeling of “I don’t trust anyone”.
Click to expand...
Check Crestview, sent a few engines to a shop in crestview. So far they're all working fine in mud trucks.
 
So while I’m waiting for parts I thought I would install a coolant bypass. For those of you that don’t know, it diverts some water from the back of the engine to the radiator. They sell a nice bolt on kit, but my intercooler mount prevents me from using it. So I thought I would make my own.

First I needed a disc to replace the rear freeze plug. After fooling around on the lathe, I had this.

IMG_2137.jpeg


It fits nice and tight, but I wonder if the o-ring will hold radiator pressure.

IMG_2136.jpeg


I welded this to my intercooler mount. Than I drilled it out for 1/2” NPT.

IMG_2138.jpeg


Shortly after this pic, I mounted the tap in the mill to start the tap straight. You don’t know how close I came to tapping the threads in the wrong side.

More on this later.
 
So I taped the 1/2” NPT on the correct side. Turns out that it didn’t matter. I drilled the hole too big and the tap didn’t completely clean up. I don’t know if the threads have to have points on them, but I’m not taking any chances. So I went up to 3/4” NPT. Of course, I didn’t have one of those taps. I went to Tractor Supply and was pleasantly surprised that a large tap like that was only $12. When I got home, my glee wore off quickly when I found the tap sucks. Took a couple hours to get the hole tapped. I’ve always heard that you run a pipe tap down 3/4 of the way to get the correct depth. I ran it the entire way down and the fitting was still not reallly correct. I did want it a little higher because of clearance to the cylinder.

Anyways, here is the finished item.

IMG_2140.jpeg


I do have to repaint it.

Compare this to the aftermarket version.

IMG_2141.webp


You can see they have a thermostat in theirs. I may have to do something like that. I’ll see after testing.
 
I'd be surprised if you don't end up wanting a thermostat in there, unless it's really a tiny flow it'll probably increase warmup time dramatically. Maybe even in Florida.
 
Mr. Mindless said:
I'd be surprised if you don't end up wanting a thermostat in there, unless it's really a tiny flow it'll probably increase warmup time dramatically. Maybe even in Florida.
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I’m having a hard time to figuring out the why of this modification.
 
Mr. Mindless said:
I'd be surprised if you don't end up wanting a thermostat in there, unless it's really a tiny flow it'll probably increase warmup time dramatically. Maybe even in Florida.
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I’m going to be running the hose from this to a bung that I already have welded to my return line to the radiator. It has a ball valve on it, so I can easily test it and shut it off in winter. In summer, I don’t think it will be a problem.

ThePanzerFuhrer said:
I’m having a hard time to figuring out the why of this modification.
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There are a lot of discussions on the value of this mod. I’ve been doing a lot of reading and I’m not sure. One thing I found was the rpm of the engine will make the pressure at the back of the engine go way up. One guy had a pressure guage on it and it read 60 psi at 3000 and 80 psi at 4000. (I saw this on a video) Some people are doing this so the rear freeze plug doesn’t blow off during drag races. Mine will never see 3000, but still it’s hard to follow those pressures when the rad cap is 15 psi.

If not seen any proof of it lowering temps, so it might not be a benefit to me.
 
I can find out who is good around you for cylinder head work I have a lot of contacts down there . If not, ship it here there is a phenomenal one that doesn’t disappoint.
 
Higher pressure in the cylinder would combat localized hot spot boiling. Sounds like your mod is a drag solution not a towing solution.
 
So I’ve been waiting all this time for a Cummins valve spring compressor. I couldn’t wait anymore, so I made one in 10 minutes. It worked great.

IMG_2143.jpeg


I just put the head in the press and push it down. I can take the keepers out with a magnet.

IMG_2145.jpeg


Installing the new valves I just used a tweezers to put in the keepers. It was easy.

I worked all day yesterday and the head is back in. I still have some work before starting and it’s going to be tough because we have a cold wave today. But it should be running in the next couple days.
 
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