Dana 44 balljoint delete

WiscoF100

WiscoF100

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How-to thread and review/longevity report for American Iron Off-road ball joint delete system.
IMG_0575.jpeg


Axle in question is a ‘78 Ford F250 (old school is the kit #AI-1102)

Vehicle:
1978 F150
5” Bronco Graveyard suspension
37x13.50r17
Link to build thread:
1978 F-fun hundred 3/4 tons and 37s
IMG_0473.jpeg


I had just refreshed the hubs on this axle and corrected all the seal and bearing hackery. The previous owner of the axle had installed new ball joints but abandoned his IFS suburban swap. Within a couple hundred miles the lower joints were full of play.

Before disturbing anything, indicate each steering stop to the inner C. This is to verify correct install height at the end of the job.
IMG_0581.jpeg


Once you’ve blown apart the hub assembly including removal of the axle, remove the upper and lower retainer nuts from the joints. 1-1/4” top 1-1/8” lower. Strike the upper joint with a hammer to release the knuckle.

Remove the snap rings and grease fittings
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Drive out the lower joint
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Top joint
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Uppers are Delphi. Not sure what brand the lower is but it’s marked MS
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Curious what application these knuckles may be from. Both have casted bosses for high steer studs. 620047 R and 620048 L
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Edit for missing photos
 
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Once the inner C is prepped, set the tapered insert flush with the top. I added a bit of blue loctite to the insert and verified with a straight edge
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Insert the upper stud. If the shank is exposed as seen below, use the included washers to prevent bottoming out the upper nut

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Again I took the liberty of loctite
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Torque to 60 ft lb
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Each stud has a 5/16” broached hex for setting torque values
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Note the cup differences and shoulder location. Unlike BJs these press in from the outside top and bottom
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C is ready to accept the knuckle
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It doesn’t specify this in the directions but you need to verify both uniball assemblies bottom out on the studs. If they don’t, you’ll need to adjust the tapered insert up or down
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Begin setting the upper stud to 40 ft lb then move to the lower at 40 ft lb. Check resistance using one hand. Instructions call out 50 ft lb being normal but under no circumstances exceed 60 ft lb. 40 each was good for mine.

Mark all fasteners with tamper evident gel or paint pen.
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Tools required:

Dana 44 spindle nut socket
11/16” for spindle nuts
1-1/8” & 1-1/4” for old BJ nuts
15/16” for BJ delete top nut
1-1/16” for the other 3 nuts in delete kit
External snap ring pliers
Various picks
7/64” or similar Allen for locking hub dial removal
5/16” Allen socket and 3/8” or 1/2” breaker bar
Torque wrench
Beer

That’s all that I can think of that was specific to the task
 
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total newb said:
All flat top blanks/p-side have the bosses.

Id bet money whoever did the last balljoints didnt adjust the taper sleeve.
Click to expand...

The tools are hard to find locally these days. They were $30 online so I just bought a $5 socket from Tractor Supply and made my own with an angle grinder and had it same-day :grinpimp:
IMG_3725.jpeg
 
total newb ahhh didn’t know that. Makes the mod even more useful. It’s just hard to believe with the hack work of different flavors I found in this axle that someone paid a machine shop to work the pass knuckle.

You’re saying if the upper taper sleeve was set too low, that could’ve been the play in the lower ball joint because it wasn’t fully seated? It was in there quite a ways. Maybe 1/4” below. I brought it to the top as per the instructions for these deletes.

@’84 Bronco II people even use 3/4 pipe. 4 tooth is fancy, 2 would even work for dumbest toolmaker.
 
with the previous owner using knurled balljoints, will it affect the install of the new deletes?
 
Chang805 said:
with the previous owner using knurled balljoints, will it affect the install of the new deletes?
Click to expand...
My HPD44 ball joints were knurled too. Arent they all?
 
WiscoF100 said:
How-to thread and review/longevity report for American Iron Off-road ball joint delete system.
IMG_0575.jpeg


Axle in question is a ‘78 Ford F250 (old school is the kit #AI-1102)

Vehicle:
1978 F150
5” Bronco Graveyard suspension
37x13.50r17
Link to build thread:
1978 F-fun hundred 3/4 tons and 37s
IMG_0473.jpeg


I had just refreshed the hubs on this axle and corrected all the seal and bearing hackery. The previous owner of the axle had installed new ball joints but abandoned his IFS suburban swap. Within a couple hundred miles the lower joints were full of play.

Before disturbing anything, indicate each steering stop to the inner C. This is to verify correct install height at the end of the job.
IMG_0581.jpeg


Once you’ve blown apart the hub assembly including removal of the axle, remove the upper and lower retainer nuts from the joints. 1-1/4” top 1-1/8” lower. Strike the upper joint with a hammer to release the knuckle.

Remove the snap rings and grease fittings
IMG_0571.jpeg

Drive out the lower joint
IMG_0573.jpeg

Top joint
IMG_0574.jpeg

Uppers are Delphi. Not sure what brand the lower is but it’s marked MS
IMG_0576.jpeg

IMG_0577.jpeg

Curious what application these knuckles may be from. Both have casted bosses for high steer studs. 620047 R and 620048 L
IMG_0578.jpeg
IMG_0579.jpeg

Edit for missing photos
Click to expand...
77.5-79 F250
 
Chang805 said:
with the previous owner using knurled balljoints, will it affect the install of the new deletes?
Click to expand...
I don’t think knurled joints beforehand affect anything. These had a decent interference.

What really hosed me is that some jackwagon had completely fubar’d the bores in general due to improper alignment or practice of installing joints. I had no choice but to tack weld the cups on the passenger knuckle. Hoping the driver isn’t quite as F’d when I get to that side tonight.
 
Made some dirty upright fixtures so I could drill the factory steering location to 3/4”.
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total newb gets an internet gold star or brown star of his liking. The driver side insert below and how low it is set. When I finished up the passenger side, sure enough, my indicator on the stop went up close to 1/8”.
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Just saw these were a thing and interested to hear how they hold up. I'm overtaxing the same axle in a jeep and worry about broken ball joints!
 
Moar from the driver side today

The height difference is insane because the old upper was installed so low
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Both uppers required a 3rd shim
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Luckily the driver knuckle wasn’t fubar’d. I did peen the bores. Wish I had thought of that yesterday. Oh well, Minnesota will rust-***e them in the bores in short order.
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Love it so far. Drive it every chance I get. 700 miles logged. They don’t even cross my mind driving.

It’s all covered in the build thread but it’s very enjoyable to drive now. Low and high speed. These play a part in a whole series of lessons learned and mysteries solved building a vehicle from scratch with new and used parts and no base line to start from.
 
'84 Bronco II said:
The tools are hard to find locally these days. They were $30 online so I just bought a $5 socket from Tractor Supply and made my own with an angle grinder and had it same-day :grinpimp:
IMG_3725.jpeg
Click to expand...
I made one in high-school for my dad's blazer out of a ¾ craftsman socket. It only has two dogs on it.
 
Badass upgrade, when I had my old school 44 I’d piss through ball joints. Glad to see they have new options
 
Curious if you ever ford through water?


Friend had these in his girlfriends rig for 1 season. We cross a lot of water.

It was back to death wobble by the end of season and all the bearings were seized.
 
No, my idea of fun has nothing to do with purposefully driving through standing water or mud. They’ll see their share of salt and de-icer but I also pressure wash each week and spray down all my heims and the deletes with a dry silicone spray.

I didn’t have or ever expect to have death wobble issues.
 
These work awesome,I ran a different brand for years. Just grease them when you do a oil change or after heavy water crossings.
 
Winchested said:
From what my friend said the American iron ones aren't easy to grease.
Click to expand...
He can't get to the zerk or it won't take grease? The ones I have are brass like a kingpin,not the spherical joint. I have the companies sticker on a toolbox,I'll look who it was when I get to work.
 
Form&function said:
He can't get to the zerk or it won't take grease? The ones I have are brass like a kingpin,not the spherical joint. I have the companies sticker on a toolbox,I'll look who it was when I get to work.
Click to expand...
Looking at these photos there is no grease zerk... Hence the problem.
 
At the photos of my install? They’re spherical bearings/uniballs. Can’t be greased.
 
I read the instructions online. The top of the bearings get greased, but only to help as a moisture barrier. These would work well for my rig since it's mostly used in the desert.

I used Moog ball joints the last time I replaced them. It's been at least five years and they are still tight. I grease them on a regular basis. When they go, I'll probably get this kit.
 
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