77 F150 4x4 SWB Budget build?

Got heads cleaned up all gasket surfaces

got the rest of the valves cleaned

Lapping in valves. Shifted to working outside since it was nice and cloudy.

Then just washing them is left and ill throw engine together


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Now I know how to lap valves, pretty damned easy with a slow speed drill.

One head cleaned and hot tanked garden hose and shop air style and ready for assembly, one to go.

Picked up a fel-pro engine gasket set back in 2019, its got the old school umbrella style valve stem seals. Will I regret using these?
Remember this is basically a secondary farm/work truck/toy. Wont see many miles a year.
 
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Levigarrett76 said:
Now I know how to lap valves, pretty damned easy with a slow speed drill.

One head cleaned and hot tanked garden hose and shop air style and ready for assembly, one to go.

Picked up a fel-pro engine gasket set back in 2019, its got the old school umbrella style valve stem seals. Will I regret using these?
Remember this is basically a secondary farm/work truck/toy. Wont see many miles a year.
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It may puff smoke every now and then.

So, check the oil level once or twice a year :rasta:
 
Finished the last head and assembled
happy with my lap job.
motor disassembled with my son and daughter help. Got some gasket surfaces cleaned up. You can definitely tell it only has 300 hrs on it like new inside.

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Levigarrett76 said:


Figured out this was a 400 4” stroke
and the rod knock was whoever installed it forgot to tighten flywheel bolts 😂

Previous owner allegedly rebuilt it
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I’d 1000 times rather have a 460 than a 400 so good choice there. But I also don’t hate the 400M. What kind of oil pressure did it have when you still ran it?
 
JR4X said:
I’d 1000 times rather have a 460 than a 400 so good choice there. But I also don’t hate the 400M. What kind of oil pressure did it have when you still ran it?
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Same here, but a proper built 400 is no slouch either. Was nice surprise to find out it’s a 400 crank
Everything indicates it was rebuilt in some capacity, oil pressure was 60-80cold the short time I ran it. Looks spotless inside, all the bolts were loose but I had already tightened two before the video.
 
JR4X said:
you seem like a fellow ford parts hoarder. Do you have a BB bellhousing from an np435 truck?
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Hahah maybe slight parts hoarder

I sure dont

I let all mine go

i see em on marketplace now and again
 
Levigarrett76 said:
Hahah maybe slight parts hoarder

I sure dont

I let all mine go

i see em on marketplace now and again
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You probably don’t have any interest in messing with the 400 but if you had a bell housing you can bolt the bell housing to the engine stand. Bolt the engine to bellhousing and start it. With the flex plate bolts tightened anyway.

If it’s been rebuilt ish and has good oil pressure who ever did it knows about the front cam bearing trick. Maybe they got it all right and just forgot to tighten the flex plate bolts going in.

I’ve had to pull a transmission because I forgot to see if it had a pilot bearing in the crank and had it 100% together.
 
Sure is! There’s a lot of jackasses who will fight you behind keyboard saying you cannot measure stroke through the spark plug hole.
 
WiscoF100 said:
Sure is! There’s a lot of jackasses who will fight you behind keyboard saying you cannot measure stroke through the spark plug hole.
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You right, I witnessed it.

Best part was telling my wife to hold my dipstick so i can measure the stroke.

I figure while its apart I should pull the steering box and see how bad the frame is/is not ****ed.

I suck at fab though..
 
rattle_snake said:
A large enough stroke difference is easy to find, but a ****tard trying to sell a FE 360 as a 390 will always end up measuring a 390.
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Pretty easy on an M, 50 cube difference and it is all stroke.
 
Lost my damn 1 pc oil pan gasket in the move i guess

Oh an that water pump is painted, this is gonna be one ugly bastard of an engine :smokin:
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I hate scraping gaskets, and wire wheeling head bolts and cleaning threads


Lifters are soaking in engine oil
 
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Pony_Driver said:
Que?
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The timing chain set gets its lubrication from a hole between the block and the front cam bearing. A lot of factory built M engines would have terrible oil pressure. Like 40 psi cold and 25 psi hot. The chamfered hole is tapered and if the front cam bearing is installed .010 to far into the block you still get good cam lubrication but are losing oil pressure to the timing set needlessly. So when rebuilding one you gotta pay extra attention to just the front cam bearing. Put it in just a smidge less far, and you still get good cam lubrication but don’t piss half your pressure away to the timing cover. My first “hotrod” engine Shenanigans were all spent on 400’s. My best one had 80 psi cold and 55 hot.

Bored it .060 over and put flat tops in it with no smog port Cleveland heads. Couldn’t manage the coolant temp because the cylinder walls were too thin and I cracked my good heads. :homer:
 
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