What did you do to your GM today?

1993 c3500
Replace the shocks, idler arm and bracket.

This truck seems to be missing down travel limiters, so it uses the shocks:homer:.
They pulled through the frame:homer:. You can see where the suspension compressed after the shock dropped into the spring bucket then poped back through.
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I reshaped the old shock bushing washers and welded them to the spring cups.
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I also changed the ds upper A-arm bushings.
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After this I replaced the a/c compressor hose and gaskets and charged the system.
 

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96 s10 2.2 I filled it with fuel, but upon removing the gas cap it blew off:confused:. Seems odd, no check engine light.
 
Wiper arm/turn signal arm on my 1989 2wd 2500 had the metal end broke off into the switch. Been this way since I bought it. Decided to deal with it now since the truck is becoming more of a regular.

Tried to pull it out with some tape and screw driver. Tried to use air and blow it out....but it's wedged in there good. So I need to pull the switch....lame.

I've replaced turn signal switches but haven't done the "multi function" switch as it's called in some places.

Anyway...I ended up breaking the bottom column housing where it bolts to the top housing:homer:
This is a non tilt, non air bag column...pretty basic. After taking steering wheel off and turn switch out etc. There's 4 screws that hold the housing from the front and there's 3? screws that hold the housing from the back. So my conclusion is, I just needed to put a Phillips screw driver in from the backside to separate the housing halves:homer:.
I had the room and if needed more could have dropped the steering column down a bit, but I wasn't patient and just wedged a flat blade screw driver between the 2 housings and broke the plastic bosses off.:homer:

I ****ing hate doing that ****, and more often than not...that's what I do.

So options now are
1. pick n pull for the plastic housings and/or just grab a whole column.
2. Epoxy the broke pieces back:homer:
3. Internet site that sells these older trim pieces. Suggestions? Rockauto doesn't carry this kind of stuff:flipoff2:

I turned 40 this past Tuesday....still doing the same stupid **** when I was 20. Breaking **** that seems complicated until you get to actually see how it goes together and just feel ******ed.
:smokin:
 
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Last pic is where I *believe you come up with a screwdriver from the back to get those 3 screws holding the halves together. The plastic shroud below my finger just pulls out of the plastic housing I ****ed up. Of course I only found that out after the fact.

I don't know if my head could be any further up my ass:lmao:

Oh well my fiance just brought me fresh blueberries and strawberries.
 
M92PV4U said:
I almost broke that same piece trying to replace the ignition rack and pinion.
Click to expand...
Logic should tell me....if it's not popping out, it's screwed together. If you cant see the screws, then they're behind what you're looking at.

Nope. I'm too busy thinking in my head who the ****ed designed this, and they must be dumb.....says the idiot.

Edit: I have had decent success using epoxy and plastic:lmao:. So I'm definitely going to try that with this cover. Other than those mounting spots the cover looks ok.
It's also an ex roofing truck with 300k on it. She goes tho
 
Snoop dogg said:
Logic should tell me....if it's not popping out, it's screwed together. If you cant see the screws, then they're behind what you're looking at.

Nope. I'm too busy thinking in my head who the ****ed designed this, and they must be dumb.....says the idiot.
Click to expand...
I have the book to refer to.
 
Today’s shenanigans in my 94 Blazer I pulled the hvac box out which took longer than expected that hidden bolt on the inside got me . I thought there was a bolt down by the heater core not up at the top anyhow it’s out with a minor crack on the heater core access door.

I figure I’ll replace the door actuators would like to find NOS actuators vs china 💩 so that will be my search this week along with both cores NOS .

Here’s a door diagram I found last week online I added some part numbers to it for reference.
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Rear fuel tank strap broke on 05 . Ordered GM replacements after reading about dorman and others. Went back in too nice. Jesus loves me, nice.
 
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I banged up the box wheeling so I whipped up this flat deck. Added hydro assist, spooled up the rear axle. Fun full-size wheeler at this point. Works well in the woods here on Vancouver Island. I am thinking about building a rear 3 link suspension using coils or some sort of airbagged trailing arm system that would make Dave Chappelle proud.
 
96 2.2l I installed a square body high idle solenoid for the ac on the throttle body. This kicks the idle to 1500 rpms when the a/c clutch is engaged making it cool better and run smoother at idle. I had to modify the bracket on the solenoid and remove the cruise control cam. This truck is not equipped with cruise control.
I also had to make a bracket.
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If you cruise control cam wasn't already ****ed up, I probably would have driven a roll pin in the side of it for the solenoid to hit.
 
Been fighting a weird lean condition under heavy load or towing on my beater truck, 2001 2500hd 6.0/nv4500. Fuel pressure is good, o2 sensors good, exhaust is leak free. Smoke tested the intake and found smoke pouring out of the knock sensor tube in the valley plate, tore it down and this seal was pretty much gone on the back knock sensor.

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Hole had quite a bit of oil too, not sure I completely understand how/if this was causing the lean condition but the fuel trims look better and the truck runs great. Haven't put in under any real load yet.

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Bounced it off a gate post which forced me to address the headlight/turn signal housings that were hazed over, broken adjusters, and doubled as water tanks.

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New on passenger side, old on driver.
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Also fixed the a/c schrader valves, good used steering wheel, and replaced the door speakers.
 
The intake gaskets will leak causing the lean condition. Pretty common on those. When you pulled it to mess with the knock sensors, I’m assuming you replaced the gaskets, solving the problem.
 
Rttoys said:
The intake gaskets will leak causing the lean condition. Pretty common on those. When you pulled it to mess with the knock sensors, I’m assuming you replaced the gaskets, solving the problem.
Click to expand...
Truck has had the lean condition for a while, po171 po 174 p300, ltft maxed but only set codes when towing or 2-3k in the bed, I did intake gaskets about a year ago, no change. I bought a smoke machine a couple weeks back and found the knock sensor seal leak but no other intake leaks on a smoke test. I did put on new intake gaskets and smoke tested everything behind the maf after I was done. Fuel pressure is 58psi with the regulator unhooked and o2 sensors seem to be reading properly.

Does it make any sense the leaking seal on the knock sensor causing this? To me it is a crankcase leak not a vacuum leak but I don't claim to be great mechanic or engine guy.
 
Which pcv valve does it have in it? Theres an updated one that just has a hole in it, vs the old school spring valve type. I know. Sounds dumb, but it makes a difference.

Right around 01-02 is when they went to the hole type. People would replace them like the old days and put the spring type in. This jacked up the readings.
 
Rttoys said:
Which pcv valve does it have in it? Theres an updated one that just has a hole in it, vs the old school spring valve type. I know. Sounds dumb, but it makes a difference.

Right around 01-02 is when they went to the hole type. People would replace them like the old days and put the spring type in. This jacked up the readings.
Click to expand...

It has the old style spring type pcv valve. I've never changed it.
 
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