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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
Waterhorse machinging again
- Thread starter WaterH
- Start date
GLTHFJ60
Stupid is as stupid does
The sandvick tools are neat but pricey. You can do it cheaper with hss:
Below the belt - Are your pulleys costing you?
Traditionally, the cure for an inefficient belt drive has been to simply replace the worn one with a new one. However, Gareth Lenton, ERIKS General Manager for
eriks.co.uk
Bebop
Well-known member
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- May 26, 2020
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- 1458
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Automatic tensioners have a range of motion they are meant to operate under.
Too loose is bad, but too tight isn't good either.
WaterH
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #65
When the belt stretches and the tensioner starts clicking the stop,I’d say it was to loose. I’ve never heard it click the being too tight. Mine is using a good bit of the travel, so it is probably in the range.
The experiment continues.
The two discs on the spacer. I had the spacer in the freezer and heated the discs. I had to pound them in, but they could just turn once down flat. Must be about a one thou slip. After it all got to room temp, I couldn’t turn them.
Hard to see here, but the pulley is sitting on the spacer and not the discs.
Got it welded last night. Broke all my tig cups, so I used a stick welder.
ThePanzerFuhrer
The Rock Breaker God
Keep an eye on that thing that weld is gonna be the place that it fails at. Should have drilled and tapped a 3/8” hole at the mating line to thread a bolt in to help lock it into place. Should have made the plate bolt on vs weld on. In this type application a bolted connection is far superior to a welded one.
WaterH
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #69
Yea, I’m going to have to keep checking it for awhile. I’m more worried about what you said earlier. (Busting the mount bolts) It sure doesn’t have a very big bolt circle for taking much rotational force. The bolts are class 12.9. I didn’t realize they had anything over 10.9. I’m not very up on metric stuff. They should be hard to shear.
lt1yj
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Check the bolt torque regularly. If the bolts start to loosen you've exceeded the shear capacity and the only way you're fixing that is more or larger bolts.
WaterH
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #72
No. It’s virtually all machined out is solid steel, so the only thing that could be out of balance is the weld. I'm going to bolt it on and see what I think. I would balance it in place anyways. If I end up altering it for balance, I’ll need to mark the bolt hole to crank somehow so it doesn’t get moved in the future.
rattle_snake
****wits
swap out that heavy, stinky, loud, rattling turd for a gas motor. 
ThePanzerFuhrer
The Rock Breaker God
Why would they put a larger flange than needed on the crank? Bigger flange larger the seal the faster the speed the seal sees!
ThePanzerFuhrer
The Rock Breaker God
Or toss in a way more powerful 3.0l 6cylinder bimmer dieselswap out that heavy, stinky, loud, rattling turd for a gas motor.
arse_sidewards
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- May 19, 2020
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"Need" is gonna vary wildly among applications with an industrial engine like this.
If the speed is fine for the rear main it's fine for the front.
ThePanzerFuhrer
The Rock Breaker God
And which one typically starts leaking first
.
ThePanzerFuhrer
The Rock Breaker God
2 turd engines = super turd engine. 4bts belong in heavy equipment or industrial applications
ThePanzerFuhrer
The Rock Breaker God
lol they don’t make enough hp/weight to lift themselves off the ground
.
arse_sidewards
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Solid coin toss in my experience.And which one typically starts leaking first
"Machined" what kind of runout did you have when you made it?
Balance the abortion to itself so that it doesn't matter which orientation it is bolted on.
CarterKraft
Thread ****ter Upper
We need a pot for "needs balance" or "doesn't"
How about a poll?
Couple thou by bull**** guess or did you actually use an indicator? If you didn't I doubt you're within .005"
Don't you have a helicopter balancer?
The Cummins imbalance?
WaterH
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #89
Couple thou by bull**** guess or did you actually use an indicator? If you didn't I doubt you're within .005"
Don't you have a helicopter balancer?
The Cummins imbalance?
Couple thousands by educated guess. .005” would not be a big deal at that diameter.
To use the helicopter balancer, you have to spin it at the same rpm it will be used. If I want to do it off the engine, I would need a perfect spindle. On the engine, not only do I not need the perfect spindle, I will correct some of the Cummins imbalance.
You aren’t serious about saying “Cummins imbalace”. Are you?
WaterH
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #90
Ok, I bolted it on. I tried to get a pic for panzer. Here is the old set up.
Before I took this off, I started it to get a feel for vibration. You don’t feel much in the seats, but the drivers side fender has a pretty good vib to it. When I tested the other dampers, that was a visual thing I could look at and grab with two fingers to see how much force it had. Not sure why, but the pax fender doesn’t do it.
The other thing I looked at was the belt bounce. That was visible between the crank and water pump. It was also visible between the pump and the alternator, and even between that and the AC compressor. As I said before the tensioner was a blur. There is a raised part of the casting on the tensioner that lines up with the moving part. It maybe that is the “range” others spoke of.
Anyways, here’s the new one installed.
Another angle.
So I cranked it up. My first impression is the truck is smoother. I jumped out and checked out the drivers fender and I can say positively it is smoother. I got back in and checked out the belt bounce. It still is bouncing between the crank and pump and alternator. But it appears there is no movement after the alternator. Also the tensioner is not moving as much.
I will stress that I only ran it for about two minutes and never reved it up, but I’m having a good feeling. I can’t wait to drive it. My wife is recovering from surgery and I can’t leave the house right now. (She’s kind of pissed that I keep going down to the garage) Maybe I can talk her into some Chick felet that I have to pickup.
Before I took this off, I started it to get a feel for vibration. You don’t feel much in the seats, but the drivers side fender has a pretty good vib to it. When I tested the other dampers, that was a visual thing I could look at and grab with two fingers to see how much force it had. Not sure why, but the pax fender doesn’t do it.
The other thing I looked at was the belt bounce. That was visible between the crank and water pump. It was also visible between the pump and the alternator, and even between that and the AC compressor. As I said before the tensioner was a blur. There is a raised part of the casting on the tensioner that lines up with the moving part. It maybe that is the “range” others spoke of.
Anyways, here’s the new one installed.
Another angle.
So I cranked it up. My first impression is the truck is smoother. I jumped out and checked out the drivers fender and I can say positively it is smoother. I got back in and checked out the belt bounce. It still is bouncing between the crank and pump and alternator. But it appears there is no movement after the alternator. Also the tensioner is not moving as much.
I will stress that I only ran it for about two minutes and never reved it up, but I’m having a good feeling. I can’t wait to drive it. My wife is recovering from surgery and I can’t leave the house right now. (She’s kind of pissed that I keep going down to the garage) Maybe I can talk her into some Chick felet that I have to pickup.
