Hooligan’s Bridge to the Other Side

Hooligan

Xtreme wheeler of the web
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Sacramento
The house has a creek that splits the house from the field, when going to the field, we always said “I’m going to the other side” so that is the name of the thread.


there is drive-in access from the road to the field so this bridge is just for walking. When we moved in there was a wooden bridge, but the bank has washed away so it’s too short. It was the first or second year here the entire thing floated down stream a few hundred yards.

This bridge is purely for people, no cars or vehicles. Was thinking to make it wide enough for the riding mower, but then it needs to be wider and have ramp, I’ll just drive down the street like 300 feet. Anyways, might take a wheelbarrow over it, point is it won’t see heavyweight.

It will cross a 30 foot span, bridge will be 40’ total. When water is at low point, which is 350 days of the year, it will be about 10’ feet off the water. Water is about 8-12 inches deep and maybe 10’ wide. The rest of the distance is the bank.

A few years back I bought some steel. Four sections of 20’ c-channel. Flanges are 4” wide by 3/4”, beam is 18” tall by 1/2”.

Going to butt weld 2 of them with a bevel, weld each side. Use a 6011, then cap with 7018. The inner side will have a 15” by 3/16” square welded in a triangle configuration as a fishplate. This gives me two 40’ sections.

Will put an x-brace at each end to prevent rotation. This will be with angle iron.

The walking treads will be 48” x 2”x 6”. On the flange of the beams I’m going to weld a 2” x 3/16” strap the length of the beam, this won’t be load bearing it’s getting drill through just to mount the treads. Treads will rest on the main beam. Hoping the treads don’t flex much, they will unsupported 40”span. I’ll probably space them out at 1/2” so leaves and stuff fall through.

If the treads flex, I’ll make some sort of center beam and brace that to the side beams.

I’m wanting to put the beams at the full 48” wide as I plan to weld on to the outside of the channel some stake pockets that will hold the handrails. C-channel will have the c facing inward. So every 4’ was going to put stake pocket, one top and one bottom to hold 2x4, which will then support the handrail. Hoping the 18” tall span will provide enough space to reduce flex on the uprights. Handrail will be around 30-36” from the top of the tread.

Beams will temporarily be permanently rested on railroad ties on the bank.

This is all napkin engineering. I’m sure the beams are strong enough…but are they?

Getting to it this weekend , beams have been here for probably 6-7 years ….its time.


This is the view from the other side looking towards the house. Not sure if I will land the bridge between the trees above the t-post, or to the right of the big tree. I wanted to do between just in case the water gets crazy, but not sure if there is enough space now or will be in 20 years as the tree grow.

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This is the beams.

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Railroad flat car would work great FMPOV.


Or how about a pair of I Beams as a base, much better than c channel.
 
Railroad flat car would work great FMPOV.
Just overkill for my needs of a footbridge, would not look good in this place. If I was needing to drive across, totally would have considered that or a semi trailer.
 
2x @ 40" span....
Yer gunna need a strong back under there.
 
Use your beefy C channel to build some skookum anchor points set in concrete on either end. String some cable, and run some 2x10 or 2x8 pressure treated slats between cables as a walking path.

I'd do several things different from this fella, but here's an example to get some ideas.

 
Cool project! Back when I was a kid, I "helped" my grandfather build a wooden walking bridge to span a 30' creek. I distinctly recall him floating one section out to the other section via an elaborate setup of pulleys, ropes, and winches along with a row boat. He then mated the two sections together while standing on the row boat. It was a great project and cool bridge, however an ice storm came through probably three years later and took out all the trees surrounding the bridge and the bridge too. Was a sad end to one of the first projects I remember "helping" him with.

I share that cool story bro, to say, consider the health of the trees surrounding the area the bridge will be located. Had my grandfather removed some unhealthy trees to begin with, the bridge very well may still be standing to this day.
 
in for the updates. I'm sure anything you do is going to hold as long as your welds are good

only thought is whether you've got a mill closeby - may be cheaper and better traction to get some rough sawn boards for the decking vs box store pressure treated or similar. could go a full 2" for strength too


or just put one beam with no decking and make it a challenge to get across:laughing:
 
I’m slower than **** at getting stuff done, or I way underestimate time. Probably both.

Got the beams welded together. Realized that I’m not so good at welding and had to grind out some junk. Grinding is slow work.

The welds don’t look pretty but I took my sweet time and thought my movement was consistent. Kept reminding myself to slow down. Going up or downhill is out of the question, so I flipped the beams on end to weld the flanges.

Was hoping to have beams across the creek by yesterday, but…it is all welded, wisely chose to weld on the stake pockets in the flat position while on the ground. Those are going to hold the handrails.

Got the wife to assist with painting.

Plan tonight to slide one or both across the creek.
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is it an optical or is the left c channel arched?
if so put the crown up
 
is it an optical or is the left c channel arched?
if so put the crown up
The left one is funky. Running a string line down one side it’s straight , down the other side was like 1/2-1” out.
 
Progress…there are now two beams spanning the creek. Only three days past where I thought I’d be.

Next step is get them upright, weld in some X brace, might just do at the ends.

Than weld a 3” wide X 1/8” strap to the top flange that is only there to hold the treads in place. Then place treads and hand rails. So, at least another weekend of work.


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Fwiw
Not sure if its doable, but can you set the x bracing up to support a center rail to combat sag???

Slow an steady :smokin: gets it done.
 
You referring to sag on the treads due to the 40” span? I have an idea on that, won’t be part of my X brace. Was thinking to put treads in place, then push/hold a square tube to that, then weld off legs to the inside of the beam. like this:
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You referring to sag on the treads due to the 40” span? I have an idea on that, won’t be part of my X brace. Was thinking to put treads in place, then push/hold a square tube to that, then weld off legs to the inside of the beam. like this:
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thinking out loud

you don't walk in a straight line --------------

you walk staggered some
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so you're not going to be stepping on the center of the planks all that often, which is where the most flex would be. you'll be stepping at what, 16" in from each end? cut a board and test it before doing the extra work?

I left ~24" span on standard deck boards on a ground level walkway and a handful of softer ones flex, but 95% of the boards are plenty stiff for my 200lb + arms full of groceries or the kid or other stuff.
 
Yeah, I’ll do some trial run to see how it feels.

I’ll see if the lumber yard has 5/4 decking.
 
Time for conclusion, was cranking to get this done as we needed it Saturday for the party.So I haven’t made any progress updates. Well, bridge turned out good, I think. Naturally a few things would be done differently.

Biggie one is that one side isn’t plumb, I figured sitting on the flange would be plumb but didn’t check it, it is noticeable with the handrail, but only cuz I built it.




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I rented a welder the first weekend, then borrowed this SA200 from a buddy. It was abandoned in front of his house.

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So, I need to finish a few things, hand rails aren’t as sturdy as I thought, so I’m gonna try to shim them see if that helps.

Need to secure the ends of the rails to each other, and give them a sanding, then want to finish it with either tung oil or linseed. Then put something on the treads to waterproof them.
 
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