Manual mill coolant mister

Landslide

Red Skull
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May 20, 2020
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I’m going to set up a pneumatic coolant mister on my mill and just curious what type of coolants y’all use on your setup if you have something like this. Pros / cons of what’s good and or stay away from?

Anyone thin out Anchorlube (frog snoot) and run that through a mister?

What mister system do you use?
 
****ing hate misters with a passion. Good way to **** up your lungs.
 
****ing hate misters with a passion. Good way to **** up your lungs.
It’s not really a mister in the sense of like an aerosol spray, more like tiny spiting. I’m not talking about a fogger system.
 
It’s not really a mister in the sense of like an aerosol spray, more like tiny spiting. I’m not talking about a fogger system.
They still fog up the room and suck. I have one that I tried on one project and never used it again. Way better off with a slow dribble of coolant and set up your table drains to collect the runoff.
 
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I have the kit in the link below, using the coolant in the link. It works as advertised and I do use it every once in a while. I also wear a mask while using it, which is obviously not very pleasant.

 
I do something like this using a hole saw into steel like tubing notcher and drill press large bits.
After seeing some other people using it, I picked up some Anchorlube: Anchorlube - The #1 Cutting Fluid & Metalworking Compound

I have to say that I'm impressed. Specifically, I used it with hole saws the other week and there was a notable difference. I could feel the bite of the hole saw and could feel the difference as the lubricant "wore out" and needed to add more.
 
I have the kit in the link below, using the coolant in the link. It works as advertised and I do use it every once in a while. I also wear a mask while using it, which is obviously not very pleasant.

I got the SST system

 
After seeing some other people using it, I picked up some Anchorlube: Anchorlube - The #1 Cutting Fluid & Metalworking Compound

I have to say that I'm impressed. Specifically, I used it with hole saws the other week and there was a notable difference. I could feel the bite of the hole saw and could feel the difference as the lubricant "wore out" and needed to add more.
There’s a fella on YouTube that did a test with it in a lot of scenarios trying to verify complaints that it stains materials. This is not the case, every test he performed it never stained the material in his test.
 
I've had anchorlube stain parts if you don't clean it off. But this was a week or more later. The drill vise was where I noticed it first.
 
I've been meaning to set up a big needle in a locline end, just to blow chips away from the cutter with nothing but compressed air
something like a basketball needle with the side outlet end cut off
what I actually do is stand there with the air gun trying to turn the feed handle smoothly with one hand and apply air with the other
maybe I'll get around to it eventually

Full of 50-50 pipe thread cutting fluid and WMO. :laughing:
wrong
cutting oil is totally different **** than motor oil, acts way different
 
I've been meaning to set up a big needle in a locline end, just to blow chips away from the cutter with nothing but compressed air
something like a basketball needle with the side outlet end cut off
what I actually do is stand there with the air gun trying to turn the feed handle smoothly with one hand and apply air with the other
maybe I'll get around to it eventually


wrong
cutting oil is totally different **** than motor oil, acts way different
You can buy the SST air nozzle setup by itself and use it for just air if you want. It has an adjustable dial on it to control the feed rate. The nozzle tip is several inches long and drilled out all the way towards the opening end but stops just short of it. Then smaller hole out the end.
 
I've been meaning to set up a big needle in a locline end, just to blow chips away from the cutter with nothing but compressed air
something like a basketball needle with the side outlet end cut off
what I actually do is stand there with the air gun trying to turn the feed handle smoothly with one hand and apply air with the other
maybe I'll get around to it eventually


wrong
cutting oil is totally different **** than motor oil, acts way different
Pipe thread cutting oil ain’t motor oil at all. I use it for my tubing notcher hole saw blades and my drill press. Definitely makes a difference on blade life and drill bit sharpness longevity. It smokes though. I’m not sure I’d use it in a mister thing though.
 
Y'all are way over thinking this. :lmao:

Yes it's used motor oil. The point is to just cut the pipe threading fluid with something that it'll mix with and is free and won't stink, not that it makes good cutting fluid.

Edit: WMO = waste motor oil. Pipe threading fluid like they sell at home Depot is not used motor oil. JFC
 
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Y’all have to do better than just saying it’s used motor oil to sell that to me
 
Y’all have to do better than just saying it’s used motor oil to sell that to me
For ****'s sake! I'm not saying pipe threading oil is waste motor oil, Arse said to cut pipe threading oil 50/50 with waste motor oil, then 486 said pipe threading oil and motor oil were different (duh!), and suddenly somehow pipe threading oil and waste motor oil are the same thing and THAT IS NOT WHAT WAS SAID.

Jesus tap dancing ***ty ****ing bouncing baby Christ! :shaking:
 
For ****'s sake! I'm not saying pipe threading oil is waste motor oil, Arse said to cut pipe threading oil 50/50 with waste motor oil, then 486 said pipe threading oil and motor oil were different (duh!), and suddenly somehow pipe threading oil and waste motor oil are the same thing and THAT IS NOT WHAT WAS SAID.

Jesus tap dancing ***ty ****ing bouncing baby Christ! :shaking:
they work in opposite ways
the sulphurized cutting oil breaks down in the cut while motor oil doesn't break down
like the platelets of **** get caught in the pinch point of the cut and then break apart and them breaking apart is what is the lubricating action
while motor oil just tries to make a film and gets squeezed out of the cut entirely

like.... lipids getting smushed or flakes of graphite (or moly, or sulphur) getting smashed down further

I'm told that redline shockproof works like this, it has little tiny bits of calcium in it and they get pinched between the gears and while they are breaking down they keep the metal from making contact much better than a normal lubricating oil's film strength.
which is why shockproof is a thousand mile diff oil (if even that) and absolutely not something that you leave in there for fifty thousand or more
 
I've been meaning to set up a big needle in a locline end, just to blow chips away from the cutter with nothing but compressed air
something like a basketball needle with the side outlet end cut off
what I actually do is stand there with the air gun trying to turn the feed handle smoothly with one hand and apply air with the other
maybe I'll get around to it eventually


wrong
cutting oil is totally different **** than motor oil, acts way different

I did that on the cnc mill I had, worked great if thats all I needed which was most of the time.
 
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