Pole building or post and beam?

husslr187

husslr187

Red Skull
Joined
May 21, 2020
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833
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I moved to a new house a month or so ago. the old place I built a 12x16 shed to use as a woodshop. the new place has more property but no out building or garage. I was originally going to build a much larger shed type building with a post and beam type foundation and ran across this site while searching out material cost. PBS Direct LLC | Pole Building Supplies and Materials Turns out they’re about 40-50 minutes away and kits seem to be priced decently. would still have to pour a slab and get post protectors but 16k for wood and metal for a 24x48x16 tall is hard to ignore. would probably take another 16k to complete though. another plus is that it would also come with engineered drawings for the county to approve.

WWID?
 
Post full timber price.
Problem solved yet?
 
Projectjunkie said:
Link to exact kit?
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I’m guessing this one only one that is 24x48.

pbsdirect.com

Pole Building Kit - 24x48x16 (Lumber & Metal)

Size: 24x48x16 - (Lumber & Metal)* Pitch: 4/12 Standard Truss (1) 10'x14' Garage Door Opening (1) 3'0" x 6'8" Personnel Door Opening (4) Window Openings 12" Overhang with Soffit (4-Sides) * A $1250 NON-REFUNDABLE DEPOSIT WILL BE COLLECTED IN ORDER TO RECEIVE CAD DRAWINGS. WE WILL WORK WITH YOU...
pbsdirect.com pbsdirect.com

It’s just a kit for wood and tin. No doors windows gutters.
 
Maybe a type of construction to take into consideration.



20221225_112836.jpg
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
I’m guessing this one only one that is 24x48.

pbsdirect.com

Pole Building Kit - 24x48x16 (Lumber & Metal)

Size: 24x48x16 - (Lumber & Metal)* Pitch: 4/12 Standard Truss (1) 10'x14' Garage Door Opening (1) 3'0" x 6'8" Personnel Door Opening (4) Window Openings 12" Overhang with Soffit (4-Sides) * A $1250 NON-REFUNDABLE DEPOSIT WILL BE COLLECTED IN ORDER TO RECEIVE CAD DRAWINGS. WE WILL WORK WITH YOU...
pbsdirect.com pbsdirect.com

It’s just a kit for wood and tin. No doors windows gutters.
Click to expand...
that’s the one. I was thinking it’s small enough that I can build myself but the ceiling height could allow for a second floor/loft built 12’ off the one end with storage above and a bar below

would love to do the 40x80 but i’d image it’ll end up being 80k+ to finish it out and be extremely difficult to do myself.
 
I guess the main turnoff for me is the concrete work for the pad. that needs to be right and i haven’t done a pad before so I would have to contract that out. Im guessing about $7 a square foot in my area but I could be way off as prices have been insane the last few years.

Plus side is that I can get it up and closed mostly in, then it can sit for a little bit if needed
 
husslr187 said:
I guess the main turnoff for me is the concrete work for the pad. that needs to be right and i haven’t done a pad before so I would have to contract that out. Im guessing about $7 a square foot in my area but I could be way off as prices have been insane the last few years.

Plus side is that I can get it up and closed mostly in, then it can sit for a little bit if needed
Click to expand...
Fwiw I paid $4.8 a square foot placed for 6” thick in the pole barn I just had done.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Last month. Rebar on 18” centers .
Click to expand...
6” was about the thickness I was thinking of and rebar instead of the wire mesh ****. with a 14x14 opening, a concrete truck could drive right in and it can be done in two pours. If I go this route, I’ll see if I can hire finishers and do the prep work myself.
 
PAToyota said:
The other thing was how big was that? And wasn't it someone you supplied stone to? Economy of scale and knowing people helps. 😉
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55x105. Came out to 106 yards or so. Not sure what the plant sold the concrete at for my project.
 
PAToyota said:
If you can do it, go big. You likely won't regret it. You don't have to finish it all out at once.
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This. Our very first shop only got concrete and partitioned on half of it for 5 -6years. When dad saved enough money he concreted and finished the second half. The partition came down once the concrete was done.
 
Pole barn will not raise the value of your home , is more difficult to insure and is the cheapest option possible to build . My insurance agent , loan officer and multiple appraisers talked me out of a pole barn . Stick built or metal are the only ways to go unless this is a farm and it’s a machine shed if you want to recoup some of your investment some day .
 
PAToyota said:
If you can do it, go big. You likely won't regret it. You don't have to finish it all out at once.
Click to expand...
One of the other reasons I’m hesitant on going bigger Is the grade In the area it would have to go. I’ll be able to get the 24x48 in there easily, maybe a 30x60 but the 40x80 I would definitely have a hill to contend with that’s mostly rock. but that is an option I was also considering with a larger building
Leadfoot21 said:
Pole barn will not raise the value of your home , is more difficult to insure and is the cheapest option possible to build . My insurance agent , loan officer and multiple appraisers talked me out of a pole barn . Stick built or metal are the only ways to go unless this is a farm and it’s a machine shed if you want to recoup some of your investment some day .
Click to expand...
Not planning on selling the place. I’ll likely be dead and gone before then and it’ll be someone else’s problem
 
7865061D-B2D5-45E1-B3D4-E87DAD44932C.jpeg

soil map to give you an Idea of the hill I’m trying not to **** with. It’s not so bad around the wellhead but everything below that is rock from baseball size to basketball size. there are also a few 1,000 to 2,000+lbs rocks around the top left where I want to build but they’re avoidable. I’m assuming this property and a few others were cleared of rocks minus the heavy bastards and piled into a hill years ago before it got split up.For size reference, the lower left shed is 12x12. depending on setback requirements which I don’t know yet, I may be able to shoehorn a 40x80 in there without having to do a lot of extra grade work. I would prefer to have a proper slope away from the building which the hill would make difficult. Preferance would be to have the long side left to right to have the least amount of elevation change which is fairly flat in the top left.
 
Loose rock is one thing. Solid rock is another. But I fully understand such constraints. As I said, "If you can do it..."

Then again, if you have to have an excavator in to level things off it's not going to cost twice as much to level twice as much area - unless you're into solid rock.

Mostly, I'm saying to look into the possibilities. If, after doing your research, the larger building just isn't feasible then it is what it is. I just know there are some things about my workshop that I wish I had researched before I built, but I just dismissed them as not being a possibility. One of the biggest was not having the ceiling height for a lift - and I only missed it by a foot or so. When I built (late 1990's) there wasn't the level of internet information out there and I just figured a lift in a residential shop was out of the question, so I didn't even pursue it. Now it is right up there with having a "real" welder - which I did accommodate for, but was sort of "out there" at the time.
 
PAToyota said:
Loose rock is one thing. Solid rock is another. But I fully understand such constraints. As I said, "If you can do it..."

Then again, if you have to have an excavator in to level things off it's not going to cost twice as much to level twice as much area - unless you're into solid rock.

Mostly, I'm saying to look into the possibilities. If, after doing your research, the larger building just isn't feasible then it is what it is. I just know there are some things about my workshop that I wish I had researched before I built, but I just dismissed them as not being a possibility. One of the biggest was not having the ceiling height for a lift - and I only missed it by a foot or so. When I built (late 1990's) there wasn't the level of internet information out there and I just figured a lift in a residential shop was out of the question, so I didn't even pursue it. Now it is right up there with having a "real" welder - which I did accommodate for, but was sort of "out there" at the time.
Click to expand...
Even solid rock is a meh. Find a local blaster and he’ll have that loosened up in a jiffy. My blaster charged me $7500 to losen up 2500 yards of toe rock. Which is way more than you would need but it Would be similar to what you would need to do to clear a spot for a shed.

It was right around 3500-4500 to shoot a hole for a basement around here.
 
started a doing a little bit of trimming today. I only took three and it opened it up significantly. still weighing pole barn vs conventional build but I’m very experienced in procrastinating.


this view is from the wellhead posted earlier on the plat map. with as much as it opened up im thinking of going perpendicular instead of inline once I take the row of trees down on the left of the picture
9D8D11F9-0963-4506-BBDA-DDF05AFEFAFD.jpeg


the row of trees I plan to remove
F7E1396B-ECB3-4063-AFB4-747FBA6E6F6E.jpeg


I figure sometime around late April/early May I’ll rent a big backhoe to dig up the roots, get it somewhat level and scrap all the junk off the surface from the mobile home/trailer trash that use to be there
 
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