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What did you do for your ford today?

Swapped out my dash pad
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Yesterday took longer than I thought.. on the 78 1-ton swap I finally got around to installing the adjustable shackle-flip. I set it too high but I also think I installed the wrong bracket on the wrong side even though I followed pictures in the instructions. edited.. Can the new bracket move the axle from it's stock location just by the rear mount? Either way, I'll probably have to deal with this when I move to the new house at the end of May. I have some new adjustable leaf spring perches I can weld on, and I have the adjustable leaf spring plates already.

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I also got some stock pull off super duty wheels/tires so I can fit this thing on a trailer. Will be moving to Folsom/Sacramento area at the end of May and I'm just trying to get this thing ready. Found a guy who'll transport it for $850. If I can manage before the move I need to fix the shackle brackets, take apart my leaf-packs and remove the pinion angle shim I had installed for my truck when it was still on 1/2 ton axles. I thought it would need it with the additional lift, but apparently not. Then, if time permits I can order a driveshaft and just drive this thing up onto a trailer with just the front brakes (rear isn't hooked up and I installed a plug in the hose for now).

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As for the Bronco I reached out to Holley tech support about my popping/hesitation/stumble/wtf-ever at 50-60mph. Told them how I changed out all of my ignition stuff, rebuilt the carb etc, and the guy was pretty certain moving up on the power valve would fix it. I had a 7.5 and stuck an 8.5 in there (vacuum reads at 17hg). It seemed pretty promising, but once I got up to about 55-60 it starting doing the popping again, didn't want to go past that, but it did seem less severe.

I'm pretty stumped here, asked if they had any more ideas. Might try moving up on the jets because I saw came across a Holley video that said if you have a larger intake plenum that you may need to install bigger jets. The other things I have left to try is replacing the spark plugs (that would be the last part that remains of my ignition system that hasn't been replaced since I started troubleshooting this), and rebuilding an old 4160 I have laying around from my truck (I pulled it off the truck a long time ago because it was leaking out of the front).
 
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Took the headlights out, tail lights out multi function switch out, headlight switch out. Still a short. All the wires looked good under hood and all the way to the back. Found a checklist to check the headlight switch. Jumped pins and got all the lights to work like they are supposed to. Hooked up headlight switch and blew the fuse instantly. Checked one last time and no power at headlight switch pin where there should have been power. Damm hot wire was pushing out of its position and was shorting out. Pushed it back in hooked up switch and everything worked.

Ordered a new connector and gonna splice it in this week.
 
Finally replaced the rear pinion seal. Bent tf outta my wrench I was doubled up with.

Started leaking in Salamanca NY, drove back to Vermont didn’t fix it. Drove to Tulsa didn’t fix it. Drove back to Vermont. cost about 3 gallons of oil.
 
BUCKLAND said:
Replaced the 25k mile pos fox shocks twice. Bilstein 5160 this time. Not a ford problem Austin :flipoff2:
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Did Fox change manufacturing processes or locations in the last couple of years? I had run Fox shocks and coilovers in the past with good results. The last two sets of shocks I got from them started leaking and were replaced with Bilsteins also.
 
Anyone know if there is a PID to get oil pressure and engine coolant temps for an OBS powerstroke? Can’t seem to find them in the cts3….
 
rockota said:
Anyone know if there is a PID to get oil pressure and engine coolant temps for an OBS powerstroke? Can’t seem to find them in the cts3….
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IF its an auto definitely no coolant temp.(ect) I know manual 99-03 7.3 has the ect pid avail but not auto.
 
Yesterday: remove, changeover, and mount a "new" front subframe in my daughter's '10 Escape AWD. Waiting for Motrin to kick in before buttoning up what I can. I ordered inner & outer tie rods for both sides, and the exhaust resonator section (between rear axle and Y-pipe) after it broke in half during removal.

Old unit out:
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Pass side behind rear LCA mount:

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Pass side, inner between LCA mounts:

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rockota said:
Anyone know if there is a PID to get oil pressure and engine coolant temps for an OBS powerstroke? Can’t seem to find them in the cts3….
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Should be an oil temp you can find and use that to tell engine as it warms up stays close to coolant and about 10 degree delta once warmed

Of course towing oil temp goes higher and the delta gets larger
 
Replaced the window regulator and motor on the drivers side, passenger side revived fine with a cleaning.

New assembly was cheaper than just a motor. Swapped out the wore out bolts for rivets.

Works super smooth and easy now. Makes the passenger side seem grimy and old now :laughing:

Happy to have power instead of crank though, just a change of pace

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Captain Call said:
The boat needs a new anchor.:flipoff2:

Actually, seriously considering getting a fresh 460 and run a sniper and fuck off with the rudimentary "computer" in the truck.


Or 12v cummins swap.


:lmao:
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I'll give you $100 for it if you'll deliver:smokin:

It's insane what big block cores are being listed for. Junkyards want several hundred dollars :shaking:
 
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