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Sequoia Family Crawler

Motiracer38

Motiracer38

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2023
Member Number
6381
Messages
81
I've been gleaning so much information off this forum in preparation of a 4wd build so I figured I'd give back a bit and open up to critiques. I am proficient at building long travel 2wd trucks to go fast in the desert but this is my first attempt at a solid axle rig. This will be built as a multi use rig capable of crawling rocks, handling desert trails, and tolerating hours on the highway while carrying a family of 5 and all their support gear for a long weekend.

Current Plan:
Cheap 2003 Toyota Sequoia with high mileage V8
2008 Super Duty Front Dana 60
2003 Excursion Rear Sterling 10.5
TJ NP231 with SYE mounted via AW4 adapter housing and shaft to stock A340 trans
40in BFG race takeoff tires on Vision beadlocks
14in 2.5 King coilovers all around
3 link front with panhard Bar
Double Ended hydraulic assist
4 link triangulated rear with fabbed trailing arms with 1.4 shock ratio
Fuel tank behind the axle

The bulk of the main parts have been acquired and teardown has begun. The rear axle has been cleaned, de-braked, studs swapped for fine thread, and rolled into place.
IMG_20240505_200620238.jpg


Front axle has been stripped of stock brackets and ready for mockup. Probably took a total of 8 hours using a portaband and angle grinder with cutoff wheels and flap disks. Upside is it dropped nearly 30 pounds.
IMG_20240505_193533523.jpg



Initial measurements are not showing favorable and the frame is in the way both front and rear. The front is so wide it limits shock mounting and so flat that it limits up travel. I have seen Tacomas lift the engine and remake the front rails higher to gain up travel so that is likely my path forward. I would pinch the rails at the firewall and hug the engine tighter if so. The rear is so wide that the tire would rub the frame when flexing and mounting a shock on the trailing arm would clash. Looks like I may need to backhalf the frame and rebuild narrower. This frame is certainly not ideal but at least the rock rails will be easy to build and be strong?
 
badass, I will be following this.

I'd leave the mid section of the frame, makes it easier to build off of vs. starting from scratch
 
mobil1syn said:
what kind of up/down travel numbers are shooting for?
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I'm a fan of up travel and low ride heights so tough to say yet but 8up/6down is a goal but also toying with a fabbed leading arm to lower the upper shock mount and increase down travel.
the_white_shadow said:
Cut the frame off forward of the body mounts and build new. Check out my build thread on how i did it for my Tundra. Made it so much easier to package everything. im 3-linked in the front with leafs out back.

EDIT: The Cream Pie - A 2005 Tundra Build
Click to expand...
I did see your build, probably one of the only SAS Tundra builds that isn't sky high. Stock radiator means no narrowed frame and 14in shocks mounted to the axle C enables that. This probably is my easy way out unless the lust for up travel takes over
 
Motiracer38 said:
I'm a fan of up travel and low ride heights so tough to say yet but 8up/6down is a goal but also toying with a fabbed leading arm to lower the upper shock mount and increase down travel.
Click to expand...

use a 12" shock mounted just behind the bung and run 50/50 bias. a 14" shock needs a lot of real estate to fully articulate.
 

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I don't remember the amount you can cut off, but you can cut off some of the diff house casting from the driver side

That let's you get some better area for a truss and shock mounting options

These are old pics of mine, I ended up selling the axle

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Pitbullcruiser said:
I am totally making one of those axle stands!
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I stole the idea from someone on here and I love it. Makes moving axles around so much easier and allows it to be set on jackstands once in position. A Harbor Freight small moving dolly rated for 1000lbs, two Amazon 1-1/2 ton scissor jacks, and someone scrap 2x3 tubing. I set the entire rear of the vehicle on it but it was a little much. I may end up replacing the casters with higher rated ones for moving vehicles.
 
Arickvan said:
I don't remember the amount you can cut off, but you can cut off some of the diff house casting from the driver side

That let's you get some better area for a truss and shock mounting options
Click to expand...
You can "safely" cut about 2" of the cast off to get more room for a link mount. Definitely the way to go.
 
Arickvan said:
I don't remember the amount you can cut off, but you can cut off some of the diff house casting from the driver side
Click to expand...

During truss shopping I saw a lot referencing a 2in cut which nets around 3in of clear tube which is not enough for 1-1/2 rod end tab clearance. Ballistic makes a non cut truss that only attaches to the narrow stock opening. Either way I see the inner tab welding to both the truss face and the stock housing so I plan to see how well Ni55 sticks to a pre-heated housing. I am a stickler with pre-trip inspections so I plan to keep an eye out for cracks. I haven't even found a truss I like that won't limit up-travel to oil pan clearance and provides bumpstops mounts so may have to make my own.
 
I'll watch. You're more or less building my back burner dream of how I'd like to mod my wife's UZ 4Runner.
 
Motiracer38 said:
During truss shopping I saw a lot referencing a 2in cut which nets around 3in of clear tube which is not enough for 1-1/2 rod end tab clearance. Ballistic makes a non cut truss that only attaches to the narrow stock opening. Either way I see the inner tab welding to both the truss face and the stock housing so I plan to see how well Ni55 sticks to a pre-heated housing. I am a stickler with pre-trip inspections so I plan to keep an eye out for cracks. I haven't even found a truss I like that won't limit up-travel to oil pan clearance and provides bumpstops mounts so may have to make my own.
Click to expand...

artec makes a bracket specific for the drivers side so you can still use a 1-1/4" rod end. Of course after you cut the extra 2".

1715029318969.png


artecindustries.com

60 Lower Link Axle Brackets (pair)

HAVE A 60 WITH A REALLY SHORT AXLE TUBE LENGTH? TRYING TO USE A BIG JOINT ON YOUR LOWERS BUT CAN'T FIT IT? THESE LOWER LINK AXLE BRACKETS ARE SPECIFICALLY MADE FOR FORD AND DODGE 60'S THAT HAVE ONLY 3 INCHES OF AXLE TUBE ON ONE SIDE.These are angled in at 10 degrees for lining up with the...
artecindustries.com artecindustries.com
 
I saw those but I don't like the needless design styling(?) they add and they are only 2.625 wide.

I intend to do some test welds on the cast trimmings to see how much strength is realistic. Heard a rumor TIG welding with SS filler may work well.
 
i'll be watching this, as well. been dreaming of building something very similar myself someday
 
It does have the 4.7 that seems to run good. Nothing to write home about power wise but worlds better than a V6. It looks like it needs valve cover gaskets and possibly a Sea-foam tuneup but no other plans for it. My daily is a first gen tundra with the same motor with 240k on it and it has only needed plugs, injector cleaner due to our wonderful ethanol gas, and for me to remember to change the oil before it starts to sludge.
 
Motiracer38 said:
It does have the 4.7 that seems to run good. Nothing to write home about power wise but worlds better than a V6. It looks like it needs valve cover gaskets and possibly a Sea-foam tuneup but no other plans for it. My daily is a first gen tundra with the same motor with 240k on it and it has only needed plugs, injector cleaner due to our wonderful ethanol gas, and for me to remember to change the oil before it starts to sludge.
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don't forget the timing belt. these are interference engines meaning when the belt goes, so does the engine.
 
I have the aw4 tail housing and output shaft if you're still looking for it. I was considering doing the same thing but ended up going r151 instead.
 
Sluggy said:
I have the aw4 tail housing and output shaft if you're still looking for it. I was considering doing the same thing but ended up going r151 instead.
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Thanks for the offer but I did pick these parts up already. Still trying to determine the speed outputs as the front was a 4 point steel arm and is now a 2 lobe aluminum puck. The rear is gears to a digital output so probably will use a Dakota Digital SGI-100BT if my research was sound.
 
Motiracer38 said:
Thanks for the offer but I did pick these parts up already. Still trying to determine the speed outputs as the front was a 4 point steel arm and is now a 2 lobe aluminum puck. The rear is gears to a digital output so probably will use a Dakota Digital SGI-100BT if my research was sound.
Click to expand...

Fwiw, if you happen to read about tundras and assumed they were the same. The same era Tacomas are tcase speed sensors and 4runners are wheel sensors....

Have you crawled under and looked yet?

Also, what's the purpose of the 231 over the stock case? Seems like a lateral move?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Have you crawled under and looked yet?
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I have not, that is based on assumptions made from the LS400 trans and pickup I converted already. This may get awkward...

NP231 mainly cause I'm cheap. A $55 dollar shaft, free housing from a friend, and a $270 tcase converts the trans I have versus the local dismantler quote of $650 for trans and $350 for J-case. It also opens the door for stronger cases without expensive adapters from the Northwest.
 
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