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Sas the daily

Wasn't a fan of how high the front was so I went from a 300/300 spring to a 200/300 setup yesterday. Thst dropped it level, it rides smoother and seems to drove better
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Looking forward to see how this thing does on the rubicon. You’ve never been right?
 
It will go through no issues. Gas tank skid spare driveshaft parts brake line parts. I carry plugs for brake master to plug front or rear if I have issues. If you have a Ham radio you can reach out anywhere east and west if you need parts.
 
Rangerrod said:
It will go through no issues. Gas tank skid spare driveshaft parts brake line parts. I carry plugs for brake master to plug front or rear if I have issues. If you have a Ham radio you can reach out anywhere east and west if you need parts.
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I figured it wouldn't be too bad, especially since 5th gwn 4runners can make it through 😅 good tip on the ham. I really need to look into it. I have a gas tank skid already on and have the rest waiting to go on but I need to get my 4 to 1 t case gears in before I bolt em up
 
00nissanguy said:
I figured it wouldn't be too bad, especially since 5th gwn 4runners can make it through 😅 good tip on the ham. I really need to look into it. I have a gas tank skid already on and have the rest waiting to go on but I need to get my 4 to 1 t case gears in before I bolt em up
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Ham test buy the book. They have apps with practice exams. Boring info. But read the book and do practice test you’ll pass. A handheld ham is $20-30. If you need any guidance just message me.
 
Rangerrod said:
Ham test buy the book. They have apps with practice exams. Boring info. But read the book and do practice test you’ll pass. A handheld ham is $20-30. If you need any guidance just message me.
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Thank you, appreciate the info
 
00nissanguy said:
Wife left town so I had Friday off to babysit the kid so we got some work done, sanded the rusty bumper, added some gussets, and threw some hammered gray on. Also wasn't a fan of the bronze wheels so I went back to white. Then on Saturday hit a local sandy area, gotta say coil overs are a big improvement in the rough/whoops then any other suspension setup iv had. Need to do some work to the rear now, the shocks are shot and could use some bump s


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00nissanguy said:
Wife left town so I had Friday off to babysit the kid so we got some work done, sanded the rusty bumper, added some gussets, and threw some hammered gray on. Also wasn't a fan of the bronze wheels so I went back to white. Then on Saturday hit a local sandy area, gotta say coil overs are a big improvement in the rough/whoops then any other suspension setup iv had. Need to do some work to the rear now, the shocks are shot and could use some bump stops


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I liked the bronze wheel color. Did you paint those and if so, what paint did you use?
 
If you want to run a 1350 setup or put a driveline spacer on a nissan h233b it's actually pretty simple. Get a conversion 1310/1350 u joint, 1350 tundra yoke and pilot centering ring l, then add a trailgear spacer and redrill the nissan yoke to toyota bolt pattern
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00nissanguy said:
If you want to run a 1350 setup or put a driveline spacer on a nissan h233b it's actually pretty simple. Get a conversion 1310/1350 u joint, 1350 tundra yoke and pilot centering ring l, then add a trailgear spacer and redrill the nissan yoke to toyota bolt pattern
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What did you end up doing on the t-case side?
 
bgaidan said:
Derp. Rear.


My mind was stuck on the front shaft because that's what I need to build! :homer:
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Hey me too haha. I bought one of the shadow wolf mfg flange adapters but still need to buy the double cv end, ebay has 1310 double cardan joints all assembled with a 1.75'' male end and the Id of a stock shaft is 1.75ish so figured it would be pretty easy to cut it down and weld one in but is been low on the list since my stock shaft works but it just vibes at 30 mph or faster
 
00nissanguy said:
Something like this

www.ebay.com

913877 Ford 1310 Driveshaft CV Head Flange Type 2.000" x .120" Tube BC 3.500" | eBay

Complete 1310 CV Head. Series 1310 (1.062 x 3.219). Driveshaft slip yokes that allow for the shaft to move in and out during operation. Tube 2.000 x. 120. Weld Tube Yokes. Identify your Flange. Type of U-Joint.
www.ebay.com
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3.5" bolt circle....so that looks like the flange is the Spicer 211229x/Precision 627 that Nissannut has in his write up and it's what I'm using on an XJ shaft with an adapter to go from that pattern to the TX10.
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I hadn't even seen the Shadwolf setup. Basically that same concept that we were using with the ford 1310 flange, but it looks like it's for 1330/1350 flanges so it won't work with the one you linked. You want to look for a Ram or Super Duty CV for that.


Interesting though. You used to be able to pick up the Spicer or Precision flanges for like $60. Now it looks like the Spicer is over $300 everywhere and the Precision isn't even available. That one you linked is a really good price for the whole assembly.
 
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bgaidan said:
3.5" bolt circle....so that looks like the flange is the Spicer 211229x/Precision 627 that Nissannut has in his write up and it's what I'm using on an XJ shaft with an adapter to go from that pattern to the TX10.
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I hadn't even seen the Shadwolf setup. Basically that same concept that we were using with the ford 1310 flange, but it looks like it's for 1330/1350 flanges so it won't work with the one you linked. You want to look for a Ram or Super Duty CV for that.


Interesting though. You used to be able to pick up the Spicer or Precision flanges for like $60. Now it looks like the Spicer is over $300 everywhere and the Precision isn't even available. That one you linked is a really good price for the whole assembly.
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I have a coworker with a lathe so I figured I could make the adaper work with a 1310 setup, they do sell a 1350 for not much more but was hoping to keep 1310 for the better angles.
 
That flange adaper doesn't have a male pilot lip to go into the cv so o figured be easy to make one on the lathe to center a 1310 then just redrill the bolt pattern
 
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