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Np231 front yoke to toyota

Sluggy

Drives by braille
Joined
Jul 18, 2020
Member Number
2320
Messages
697
Loc
Bay Area
Working on my buddies 55 Chevy and trying to figure out a reasonable front driveline.

Tj 23 spline input np231

I know that d44/d300 are 26 spline including the front output on a 231.

What I'm wondering is if a conversion yoke/flange would work on a 231 to use a toyota front driveshaft.


Screenshot_20240311_100516_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20240311_100536_Chrome.jpg
 


Specs:

  • Spline Count: 26
  • Spline Diameter: 1.146
  • Hub Diameter: 1.562
  • Thru Hole: 1.500
  • Centerline To End: 3.500
  • U-joint Series: 1350

Here are some specs for the 231 front yoke.
I run a flange on the rear of my 231. I know it isn’t any help, but I don’t know why it wouldn’t be possible as long as you find the correct seal, and the thru hole matches up.
 
I spoke with jereel earlier and they said that their 1350 26 spline yoke won't work on a 231 front output, the ear hits the case.

I have a bunch of toyota stuff, so just trying to use what I have. My personal opinion is a toyota ujoint is stronger than 1310 joint by a decent amount/also can take more degrees.

I might buy the wfo one to test fit, but don't wanna waste money if someone else has already tried this.

I'm not trying to start a toyota vs 1310 vs 1350 debate lol

RunningProblem thanks for the info.
 
Edit: the ACTUAL purpose of my first post was the measurement information. Not to suggest using a yoke. If the flange measures the same as the yoke to slip on the shaft the only problem would be the overall diameter and that would mostly likely contact too much.
 
So I didn't think of Adam's drive shaft but I called them and they have a toy flange that will work with a 1.55 seal surface. Now I gotta pull the 1310 yoke and measure the OD for sealing.

:smokin:
 
Sluggy are you thinking the OD of the Toyota flange is too big and will hit something?

Edit: here’s a pic of what I think is a flange off my Landcruiser. Just a hair over 4” OD

2D2B1F1D-82CB-45F0-B017-48100DF672EE.jpeg
 
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Ya I want sure if the od of the flange would clear the 231 case.
 
I had a hard time finding anything larger then a 1310 to clear the shifter arm on my 242. Ended up with a pretty deep yoke to get it spaced far enough out. Definitely do your math with the flange since that looks like it lands exactly where the shifter arm is.
 
I agree with trindu. Just get the parts you need.

Also, I ran a 1350 yoke on an s10 233 with the shift motor intact. Barely clears.
 
I run toyota joints with flange yokes on the front of my truck. Now it’s a doubler but I ran a flanged yoke on my 231 before this setup. I believe I got the yoke from high angle drive line
 
Sluggy did you order the adapter flange?
Sorry was at the hammers getting rained on all weekend. I'll be at my shop later to drop off the crawler. I'll then pull the front yoke and check the seal surface od and make sure it matches up with Adam's driveshafts flange.
 
Front factory front tj mic'd out at 1.55 so I'll be ordering the Adam's flange tomorrow
 
I believe you can swap on a front flange off a D231 out of a dodge to go to the 1350 CV joint size if you want. It does have a bit of extension verses the yoke style to clear the shifter.
Dodge Yoke on Ebay

Actually.....just looked at the pictures closer........I forgot they inverted the shifter on the D231s.....the shift points up, instead of down like on the jeeps.
 
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I believe you can swap on a front flange off a D231 out of a dodge to go to the 1350 CV joint size if you want. It does have a bit of extension verses the yoke style to clear the shifter.
Dodge Yoke on Ebay

Actually.....just looked at the pictures closer........I forgot they inverted the shifter on the D231s.....the shift points up, instead of down like on the jeeps.

I tried one of those on my s10 np233c and it does not clear the shift motor.
 
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