Going to knock these factory rivets off and slide the crossmember back to fit the bigger factory tank, the holes are already there. Is there any effective difference bolting crossmembers and brakets in place vs rivets. I can't replicate factory rivets anyway, mostly just curious.
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Frame Rivets - Moving a Crossmember
- Thread starter Ebs
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Etyler2
Your kind of Asshole
Grade 8 with nylocks. Or weld.
Halffastford
Web Wheeler
Yeah, the lift kits for the TTB Fords had new bolts to replace the drop brackets after grinding out the factory rivets.
shortbus4x4
Junk collector
Use these. Usually the rivets are a in-between bolt sizes so just drill the rivet holes out so a bolt will fit.
boltsandnuts.com
Grade 8 Hex Flange Bolt & Flange Lock Nut Assortment 351PCS
Shop High Quality Fasteners Hardware Assortment Kits at BoltsandNuts.com. Grade 8 Hex Flange Bolt & Flange Lock Nut Black Phosphate & Oil Assortment
boltsandnuts.com
Drill the holes so the bolts are tight, torque them to bolt spec and them weld.
Wouldnt use anything less than grade 8 on anything truck related,
Could always use a stretch gauge to ensure proper stretch.
Wouldnt use anything less than grade 8 on anything truck related,
Could always use a stretch gauge to ensure proper stretch.
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I would not weld the bolts. Bridge reamer the holes to size and torque to spec with the flange bolts above. I saw some replacement coil buckets (rust belt problems) that came with the same flange bolts for hardware.
Bonus points if you get them long enough to get the right grip length
Bonus points if you get them long enough to get the right grip length
shortbus4x4
Junk collector
You're supposed to heat them red hot and then toss them to OP.
Got a bunch of these: 1/2" dia. X 1" long. Happy to pass some your way.
But really, good quality nut/bolt it together and don't worry about it.
I’ve moved x members several times on mdt & hdt trucks and always went with regular bolts with no interference.
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arse_sidewards
Contrary to everything
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Not worth buying special bolts with a shoulder.
I see no reason the nut to the bolt cant be welded.
I didnt suggest welding the bolt or nut to the frame.
I didnt suggest welding the bolt or nut to the frame.
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arse_sidewards
Contrary to everything
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They're fucking retarded some times.
Drill a slightly undersized hole. Ream it a tad so the shank is a hammer fit and call it good. Make sure you throw a washer under the head of the bolt to account for the radius where the shank transitions to the head. Simple and easy with no special shit.
It'll keep the bolt from loosening up when you're a lazy dumb-ass and run a undersized bolt or a grade 2 or some shit. Of course it'll just wallow the hole instead but that'll take longer. Win.
AlxJ64
Rust is Paint
Rivets and Bolts are both in the same fatigue category but the bolts have to be installed in a similar way to how the rivet functions.
A few folks above have already outlined that need. The rivet deforms when driven to fill the hole and then tail out to apply even force to all surfaces top and bottom and form fit. In order to properly replace the rivet with a bolt, you need to replicate as snug of a fit (ie drive the bolt shank through) and have even faying surfaces top and bottom.
Also, consider the grade of the hardware too. Don't use a bolt that is too hard; just something that will allow you to gain the clamping capacity. The rivet is annealed mild steel that is softer than the steel frame pieces it is holding together, this reduces fatigue cracking of the steel flanges around the assembly by allowing the rivet itself to deform more than the flanges where the thinner attached sections where the crack can then propagate.
Ie, drive a grade 5 in, use some soft mild steel washers, a top lock nut and you'll be fine.
A few folks above have already outlined that need. The rivet deforms when driven to fill the hole and then tail out to apply even force to all surfaces top and bottom and form fit. In order to properly replace the rivet with a bolt, you need to replicate as snug of a fit (ie drive the bolt shank through) and have even faying surfaces top and bottom.
Also, consider the grade of the hardware too. Don't use a bolt that is too hard; just something that will allow you to gain the clamping capacity. The rivet is annealed mild steel that is softer than the steel frame pieces it is holding together, this reduces fatigue cracking of the steel flanges around the assembly by allowing the rivet itself to deform more than the flanges where the thinner attached sections where the crack can then propagate.
Ie, drive a grade 5 in, use some soft mild steel washers, a top lock nut and you'll be fine.
arse_sidewards
Contrary to everything
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The ability of grade 5 to get anywhere near the same clamping as a rivet gives me pause.
I think the added footprint of a washer more than makes up for any fatigue properties you worsen by using a harder grade 8 bolt and as a bonus you get to clamp it good and tight like a rivet would be.
NOODLES
Meat Head
It is common to replace the rivets with bolts. Especially on the front ends of fords. I use fine thread 1/2" grade 8 hardware. And use a 1/2" reamer to get nice round holes for the bolts. Use washers, sharp edge toward the frame.