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Ford KP 60 big brake conundrum

06h3 said:
Was just giving an example where properly sizing the master/booster to brakes can be difficult

And I have a kingpin axle using abs :flipoff2:
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Meh abs is good for one thing... Driving in the snow as a daily, friggen useless otherwise.
 
Don’t wanna derail the thread anymore. I was just curious if one of those psi reducers could help bandaid a slightly mismatched system.

I get if it’s way off it’s way off, but if it’s close could it give you a better pedal feel.
 
06h3 said:
Don’t wanna derail the thread anymore. I was just curious if one of those psi reducers could help bandaid a slightly mismatched system.

I get if it’s way off it’s way off, but if it’s close could it give you a better pedal feel.
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This variety explains the operation as a flow restriction.

image.jpg
 
Yeah that's just an OEM style valve that many trucks had. My CUCV has one and all the older Yotas came with them. Pretty common to remove and add a manual adjuster since no one cared about load control for the braking system on a lifted truck.

So one thing I noticed that as I add rear braking force on my adjustable prop valve the pedal goes lower and softer. I will say that most factory 4 wheel disc systems have a pretty low and soft pedal.

Not like the old days with rear drums where the pedal hits as soon as you push it. But on a modified system I have noticed 100% on all my builds with 4 wheel discs whether stock MC/Booster or modified that the manually adjustable prop valve does help with lockup on the rear axle and pedal feel.
 
Skinny said:
Yeah that's just an OEM style valve that many trucks had. My CUCV has one and all the older Yotas came with them. Pretty common to remove and add a manual adjuster since no one cared about load control for the braking system on a lifted truck.
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Yes. That's what was being questioned; and the suggestion was it regulated pressure - which this one does not. Most of the GM hydroboost trucks used it prior to ABS.
 
I believe it controls an orifice size which would control volume during application. It would lower psi during application but once the brakes are fully applied I believe pressure equalizes on both sides of the orifice. But I'm not an expert in fluid dynamics.
 
Skinny said:
Yeah that's just an OEM style valve that many trucks had. My CUCV has one and all the older Yotas came with them. Pretty common to remove and add a manual adjuster since no one cared about load control for the braking system on a lifted truck.

So one thing I noticed that as I add rear braking force on my adjustable prop valve the pedal goes lower and softer. I will say that most factory 4 wheel disc systems have a pretty low and soft pedal.

Not like the old days with rear drums where the pedal hits as soon as you push it. But on a modified system I have noticed 100% on all my builds with 4 wheel discs whether stock MC/Booster or modified that the manually adjustable prop valve does help with lockup on the rear axle and pedal feel.
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I don't have a low or squishy pedal, I use the black aluminum 4 wheel disk proportioning valve I posted in non-ABS vehicles, that the ABS module is the prop valve.

That Disk/Disk valve first showed up in the 1970's, on sports cars. The it's primary function is front to back bias, as the fluid PSI hits it, keeping the pedal feel, etc. It has a spring loaded valve in it, that also works as a residual valve, keeping pressure where it belongs, at the correct PSI. Disks are 2PSI, drums 8-10PSI

A 78 Firebird with 4 wheel disks doesn't have a very high GVW :flipoff2: thus no "load control" secondary valve with a ride height sensor to add more pressure. Those trucks still came with a prop valve...
 
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Grendel said:
I don't have a low or squishy pedal, I use the black aluminum 4 wheel disk proportioning valve I posted
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this is very important to me. I don't care how good the brakes are if the pedal feels like shit I'll be annoyed every time I drive it

You said you stock those, is that your ebay page or do you have a website so I can check them out
 
lagunaMS said:
this is very important to me. I don't care how good the brakes are if the pedal feels like shit I'll be annoyed every time I drive it

You said you stock those, is that your ebay page or do you have a website so I can check them out
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I stock em for me :).

Buy whatever Saginaw disk/disk prop valve you like, with the connections you like.

I use the black aluminum one with stainless hard lines and stainless double flare fittings.
 
Grendel said:
I stock em for me :).

Buy whatever Saginaw disk/disk prop valve you like, with the connections you like.

I use the black aluminum one with stainless hard lines and stainless double flare fittings.
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BigWheel said:
This might be what you’re lookin for. Matches up to a stock 97 MC.
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Thanks,

With these there's no adjustment necessary like the manual prop valves correct? Just bleed the system and roll out?
 
lagunaMS said:
Thanks,

With these there's no adjustment necessary like the manual prop valves correct? Just bleed the system and roll out?
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Correct. They're designed for the system.
 
From what I recall the PV4 disk/disk combo valve is non biased front/ rear unless you do a panic stop, the rear prop side will kick in.
 
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