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Ford 9" small bearings fit in the factory bearing pockets IIRC.
if the small bearing 9" stuff works, that would make it even cheaper.
Awesome work! Not to worry about it not being Suzuki, at a certain point 26 spline shafts don’t cut it, and Suzuki didn’t provide us anything bigger. I like the hybrid approach.Since I last updated this thread I've done quite a bit of work on my rear axle.
I Was able to categorically rule out that the H and J series airlocker side gears are compatible, so the solution was to have the 26 spline side gears broached to 30 spline.
Stock gear:
broached:
The ARB centre needed a very light linish to clear the toyota splines.
At the wheel end, toyota 60 series rear spindles were machined to fit into the tracker bearing pockets (my axle had an additional adapter welded on to suit a Samurai front spindle, but it's irrelevant, the same solution would work without the adapter.
The 60 series hub was machined to fit inside a Samurai/tracker front brake rotor and redrilled to 5 on 5.5", so I retained Suzuki brakes.
axles are Nitro Gear cut-to-length full float LC rears. Ironically, the short side is about 1/2" longer than stock landcruiser, the long side is about 6" shorter. Axles are en route to me now.
Yes, there's custom machining in this solution, but none of the custom work is on wear items or consumables like brake rotors, axles or drive flanges. All service parts are off the shelf landcruiser or suzuki. I was very happy I could buy an off-the-shelf axle rather than having to have custom shafts made, although that's an option through the use of drive flanges and a double splined axle.
I'm aware that LC stuff is likely expensive in the US, locally a complete axle with shafts but no centre ran me $150. I think it's possible to bit LC spindles bare from US vendors to weld into your tubes, which only leaves a hub to purchase, everything is just service parts or readily available aftermarket.
Best of all, this is only adding about 20lb over my current 26 spline setup, and I have the added benefit of larger inner wheel bearings and wider bearing spacing, much better suited to a heavy wheel and tire than the suzuki spindle. I'm pretty confident I won't be able to break a 30 spline 1.31" cromo full float shaft.
You can argue this isn't a "suzuki" axle any more, but it is a suzuki housing, third, suzuki airlocker part # and runs suzuki brakes. It's also Samurai width.
Axles are a week away. I need to buy another airlocker for the front now as this locker was pirated from the front to go in the back.
I was thinking something similar, but minitruck rear axles, since they seem to hold up well.
No. They're shit. Just like every other 8"ish and down ring gear axle you find in mini trucks. They just tend to survive because you can only get so much traction when all you have is the rear half of a small pickup with maybe some tools in the bed on top of it. Being behind a drivetrain with 100hp +/-20 also sure doesn't hurt.
Did someone stick a mini-truck axle up your Arse_Sidewards?
Just because your broke an R&P first doesn't mean the amount of input torque it took to do so was notable.
Commiefornians think their shithole is representative of everywhere and I'm the ignorant one?
Commiefornians think their shithole is representative of everywhere and I'm the ignorant one?
You can get away with all sorts of stupid hack tastic shit when all you have are dry rocks and you can crawl over them at 0.4mph with accuracy to the inch. It's no different than the people who build the big mud trucks that have comical suspension geometry. Outside of very specific circumstances it just doesn't work, just like any other specialized solution.
Go to any east coast trail (or a lot of the PNW) and those people would be breaking shit or taking bypasses because you need to add speed or horsepower in order to compensate for lack of traction in a lot of circumstances.
You've got a 1.30 axle shaft diameter in a Toyota 8. The only think keeping it alive with 37s or 40s between it and the ground is courteous driving and a lack of horsepower. This has nothing to do with the brand of the axle and everything to do with certain people being unable to face facts. If those people could get over themselves we could go back to talking about zuk stuff.
So drill and tap the shaft?
www.drivingline.com
Factory is way overkill. They do it that way because it's simpler from a manufacturing perspective.
