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Broken4 Racing Compound

Don't let the "60x120 200amps or don't bother" crowd get to you. I'd much rather work in my 32x32 with 100 amps now than work in the dirt another 10 years saving for the big shop :laughing:

Sure, keep your options open for future upgrades, but delayed gratification doesn't apply to building a shop:laughing:
Ya I definitely agree. Not planning to wait on anything. Ill put in what I can and be happy with it. Thanks!
 
Looking at your diagrams I would:
1. See about raising the ceiling so that you can fit a 14' tall door (even if you don't install that tall of a door now) that way you "future proof" against taller trailers in the future
I am likely revising the foundation now, and if so I will be doing this. Ill likely only need to go about another 6" up.
2. When you lay your tubes in the floor, lay them out to allow a lift in each bay (either a 2 post of a 4 post), that way you can add another lift or two if you want to down the road.
This is a FANTASTIC idea. I will definitely be doing this. Thanks!
3. Which way will your roof pitch? Can you have it so the doors are on the gable side? Otherwise you will end up with piles of snow/ice in front of the doors when the roof unloads
I have it pitching to the front/back. While I would like to have the doors on a gable, every way I drew it out, it ended up having alot of dead space. Also I want the ability to extend the roof at a future date for the lean-to.
4. When grading, having 1-2x the depth of your shop be flat (or close to it) and graveled so you can unload a trailer into a bay without needing to jackknife the tow vehicle makes life a lot easier (looks like you have that?)
The doors come out of the shop on the right side of the site plan. So basically the entire driveway goes straight into the door.
5. On the overhead hoist, would a forklift with a boom on the forks do what you want for lifting engines and such? If so, I would get a forklift (or at least a walk behind power drive "stacker" straddle type lift), doesn't take up much space and it will likely be the most used item in your shop.
I will have a forklift as well, but I like the gantry since it doesnt take any floor room around the vehicle when lifting, makes moving around so much easier to pull engines. Also ill use it to load up onto the mezz, which I likely wouldnt have the room to get the forklift into.
Best part of my 30x40 shop is, two 11h 12w doors on the front and one in the back.
Open a front door and the back door and you get a cross breeze.
I would like this, Im just pushing the shop as far back as I can, so no room for access for an overhead door.
Also a good idea, doesn't have to be much, just enough to have the first 8-12" have 1/8" to 1/4" of drop.
Yes, Definitely doing this.
 
Well, we got possession yesterday. We are heading up this weekend with the first load of stuff. Plan is to get the house livable.
On the list:
All new water lines - They let them freeze and burst
Mow Lawn (12-14" tall)
Temporary Flooring in the living room/master.
Flush the well/chlorine shock it.

The well was tested and came back as "grossly contaminated". It hasnt been used in ~a year so it was suggested to try running the well for 3-4 hours throughout a few days and then shock chlorinate it and retest. Hope this works as a cistern would basically halt any chance of the shop going up this year.

Ill post some pictures of the house and property this weekend. Skidsteer will be showing up next weekend so I can start stripping, and then digging footings. Plans have swapped to a strip footing system. Wont be quite as fast, but it keeps me in Part 9 of the code so I don't need to deal with everything that surrounds engineering, geotech, conc testing etc etc.
 
Well, Its about time to update this thread. I switched back to a pile/grade beam system. Due to the grading of the property, we hauled in about 20 tandem trucks of clay to build the pad. I rented a ride on packed to make sure the pad was nice and compacted. The worst corner was about 5' of fill.
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The pad was done last weekend, and piles came in on Thursday. Unfortunately due to the soil, a few of the screw piles needed some extensions to reach torque. About an extra $500 but overall very happy to have them done. This previous weekend, I had some help come by and we got all the formwork and rebar in. Concrete comes on Wednesday. Super excited with the progress.
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Because of the grades on the two sides, we wont get the concrete truck back there, so what we decided to do is abandoned the skid steer inside. We will use the skid steer bucket to get the concrete to the other walls. Once the walls are set, we will build a clay ramp over the wall to get it out.
 
Time for another update. Ill work on trying to be more consistent in it.

Last update had the formwork up and ready for the concrete. Couples photos of the pour.
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Stripped the formwork and that's how we left it for the winter.

We raced in the 2024 King of the Hammers and had an absolute blast. Check out our instagram for some more updates on that.
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Anyways, that was a big money and time suck, but we got back to business on the shop early.
We pre framed and sheeted the walls on the ground to be ready for one big weekend. With the help of some amazing friends and family, we were able to stand the walls, raise the trusses, and sheet the roof over a weekend.
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After we got the walls up, we moved into electrical after getting the overhead doors, and metal ordered. We decided to drop down to 2 overhead doors. one 14x14, and one 12Hx10W in front of the lift. Steel man door rather than a standard house door.

Electrical: I'm definitely going overkill on the plugs, as I have always hated looking for somewhere to plug in. North wall (Right wall of photo above) will get the work bench and will have 5 outlets, with 2 as doubles. These are wired on an individual 20A circuit. West wall is getting 3 30A plugs for mills, lathes, ironworkers, along with a dedicated 20A line for 6 outlets along ground level, and 2 more for the mezzanine when I put that in. Also wired a 30A plug in for a compressor on the mezzanine. South and East wall outlets are 1 circuit with 8 outlets, with 1 on each side of the overhead doors. Wiring the 50A plug for the welder between the overhead doors so that I can use it anywhere including outside. Adding 2 exterior outlets on the overhead door side, along with 2 exterior lights, 1 over the man door, and 1 between the overhead doors.

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Interior lighting is going to be 12 150W UFO LED lights. Works out to almost 300,000 lumens. Hope to be able to handle a surgery or 2 if needed lol. They are dimmable so will also install a dimmer to be able to adjust if necessary.

Let me know if you have any electrical suggestions. Going for Rough-In inspection this week.

Last weekend we worked on the metal, and was able to get the roof and wall metal up. Makes me very excited to see this thing start to get finished. Wedding is T-3 Months.
Since there is always some variance in the metal, we decided to wait to order some of the trim (outside corners and gable end) until we know exactly how the metal ribs worked out. Trim should be in this week and they are delivering all the interior insulation (R20) and the OSB for the ceiling and walls.

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Sheeted over the man door, since we didn't have it onsite yet, and not exactly sure what the finished sizing of it is.

Overhead Doors are also coming in this week. Trying to decide if we should install them before the slab is done or wait until after. Based on life scheduling, we are thinking the slab will be going in late May. Plan is to basically have the entire interior done before we put the slab in. We are stuck waiting on clay to dry, so may as well get the insulation, poly and osb on and painted.

Heat will be radiant floor heating. Anyone have suggestions on Boilers?
 
are you adding a two post lift?
Yup! might not be right away but I will get one. Planning to have a 3'x3' thickening for each post and the radiant heat lines will go around them. Also putting in an overhead lifting beam that spans the entire building over the small door for pulling engines, trans, fuel cells, etc. Will also make loading onto the Mezz easy.
 
Yup! might not be right away but I will get one. Planning to have a 3'x3' thickening for each post and the radiant heat lines will go around them. Also putting in an overhead lifting beam that spans the entire building over the small door for pulling engines, trans, fuel cells, etc. Will also make loading onto the Mezz easy.

dont forget to add drops for 220v and 120v for one post of the lift.
 
Time for another update. Ill work on trying to be more consistent in it.

Last update had the formwork up and ready for the concrete. Couples photos of the pour.
IMG_2432.JPG

XQPI2051.JPG

Stripped the formwork and that's how we left it for the winter.

We raced in the 2024 King of the Hammers and had an absolute blast. Check out our instagram for some more updates on that.
IMG_1845.JPG

Anyways, that was a big money and time suck, but we got back to business on the shop early.
We pre framed and sheeted the walls on the ground to be ready for one big weekend. With the help of some amazing friends and family, we were able to stand the walls, raise the trusses, and sheet the roof over a weekend.
IMG_2116.JPG

IMG_2119.JPG

IMG_2121.JPG

After we got the walls up, we moved into electrical after getting the overhead doors, and metal ordered. We decided to drop down to 2 overhead doors. one 14x14, and one 12Hx10W in front of the lift. Steel man door rather than a standard house door.

Electrical: I'm definitely going overkill on the plugs, as I have always hated looking for somewhere to plug in. North wall (Right wall of photo above) will get the work bench and will have 5 outlets, with 2 as doubles. These are wired on an individual 20A circuit. West wall is getting 3 30A plugs for mills, lathes, ironworkers, along with a dedicated 20A line for 6 outlets along ground level, and 2 more for the mezzanine when I put that in. Also wired a 30A plug in for a compressor on the mezzanine. South and East wall outlets are 1 circuit with 8 outlets, with 1 on each side of the overhead doors. Wiring the 50A plug for the welder between the overhead doors so that I can use it anywhere including outside. Adding 2 exterior outlets on the overhead door side, along with 2 exterior lights, 1 over the man door, and 1 between the overhead doors.

IMG_6445.JPG


Interior lighting is going to be 12 150W UFO LED lights. Works out to almost 300,000 lumens. Hope to be able to handle a surgery or 2 if needed lol. They are dimmable so will also install a dimmer to be able to adjust if necessary.

Let me know if you have any electrical suggestions. Going for Rough-In inspection this week.

Last weekend we worked on the metal, and was able to get the roof and wall metal up. Makes me very excited to see this thing start to get finished. Wedding is T-3 Months.
Since there is always some variance in the metal, we decided to wait to order some of the trim (outside corners and gable end) until we know exactly how the metal ribs worked out. Trim should be in this week and they are delivering all the interior insulation (R20) and the OSB for the ceiling and walls.

IMG_2179.JPG


Sheeted over the man door, since we didn't have it onsite yet, and not exactly sure what the finished sizing of it is.

Overhead Doors are also coming in this week. Trying to decide if we should install them before the slab is done or wait until after. Based on life scheduling, we are thinking the slab will be going in late May. Plan is to basically have the entire interior done before we put the slab in. We are stuck waiting on clay to dry, so may as well get the insulation, poly and osb on and painted.

Heat will be radiant floor heating. Anyone have suggestions on Boilers?
Not sure if your electrical plan is specific but that's a lot of plugs and not near enough circuits.
Convenience is nice but capacity is just as important. Id split that long wall in two at least two circuits if not 3.
 
Not sure if your electrical plan is specific but that's a lot of plugs and not near enough circuits.
Convenience is nice but capacity is just as important. Id split that long wall in two at least two circuits if not 3.
Really? That wall only has 6 outlets at ground height (2 on mezz that will likely rarely be used). Its a 20a circuit too. I'll probably stick with how i have it wired, but I appreciate the input! The shop will only have myself working in it 80% of the time, and at most 2-3. Cant imagine we would be popping breakers.
 
Really? That wall only has 6 outlets at ground height (2 on mezz that will likely rarely be used). Its a 20a circuit too. I'll probably stick with how i have it wired, but I appreciate the input! The shop will only have myself working in it 80% of the time, and at most 2-3. Cant imagine we would be popping breakers.
Plan electrical for having a team of people working in your shop. Like KOH prep. Then when it’s only you, there’s no issue. And overbuilt allows for adding things later.
 
Really? That wall only has 6 outlets at ground height (2 on mezz that will likely rarely be used). Its a 20a circuit too. I'll probably stick with how i have it wired, but I appreciate the input! The shop will only have myself working in it 80% of the time, and at most 2-3. Cant imagine we would be popping breakers.
Plug a battery charger on that wall and a chop saw and it's done...
 
Plan electrical for having a team of people working in your shop. Like KOH prep. Then when it’s only you, there’s no issue. And overbuilt allows for adding things later.
Forsure. After I put a cord reel on the 2 post lift, that'll be 4 separate circuits all within 15' of the lift (majority of the prep).
 
Plug a battery charger on that wall and a chop saw and it's done...
I definitely know what your saying, but I'm coming from a garage with all the plugs on 1 15a circuit (I didn't build it lol). I would have radio or TV, Car or Drill Battery chargers and then using the grinders and have never tripped a breaker.

I am putting the interior osb on in a way that will make for easy removal and addition of wiring if need be.
 
Impressive update on the shop build! Really liked the Skid Steer/Pump Truck for pouring the concrete. Quite impressive the get the entire thing framed up in a single weekend too!
 
Really? That wall only has 6 outlets at ground height (2 on mezz that will likely rarely be used). Its a 20a circuit too. I'll probably stick with how i have it wired, but I appreciate the input! The shop will only have myself working in it 80% of the time, and at most 2-3. Cant imagine we would be popping breakers.

I agree w/ CarterKraft.

it's stupid simple and inexpensive to do more circuits now... It's one of the things I always regret. Has it been an issue? Not yet. Could it be an issue? Sure.
 
It has been a issue for me and my outlets are leap frogged in my 30x40.

At minimum mark the outlets with what breaker they are on.
 
Not sure if your electrical plan is specific but that's a lot of plugs and not near enough circuits.
Convenience is nice but capacity is just as important. Id split that long wall in two at least two circuits if not 3.
I don't recommend going over 4 outlets to a 20a circuit.

I went overkill on my shop, but I can plug my 120v welder in any corner and it's on its own dedicated circuit. And, I've already used one of the single runs as a waste oil furnace hookup. You never know what you will put in there down the road.

I dropped 1 circuit with 2 quads for the radio, tv, battery chargers, bluetooth, parts washer, and still have a strip plug there.

You will have to have 1 GFCI breaker or outlet to pass Code.

Are you adding any external lights or Future HVAC? The building looks great BTW!
 
Impressive update on the shop build! Really liked the Skid Steer/Pump Truck for pouring the concrete. Quite impressive the get the entire thing framed up in a single weekend too!
Thanks! it worked out amazing. For the small amount of concrete we had, a pump truck wasn't worth it. Skid steer fit the bill and was already there haha
 
I agree w/ CarterKraft.

it's stupid simple and inexpensive to do more circuits now... It's one of the things I always regret. Has it been an issue? Not yet. Could it be an issue? Sure.
It has been a issue for me and my outlets are leap frogged in my 30x40.

At minimum mark the outlets with what breaker they are on.
I hear you guys forsure. I think ill be ok on that front. 4 separate circuits with 2 as 20A all within 15' of the lift.
With the way I laid out the circuits, they are all very obvious. Ill mark the panel and it will be self explanatory from that.
I don't recommend going over 4 outlets to a 20a circuit.

I went overkill on my shop, but I can plug my 120v welder in any corner and it's on its own dedicated circuit. And, I've already used one of the single runs as a waste oil furnace hookup. You never know what you will put in there down the road.

I dropped 1 circuit with 2 quads for the radio, tv, battery chargers, bluetooth, parts washer, and still have a strip plug there.

You will have to have 1 GFCI breaker or outlet to pass Code.

Are you adding any external lights or Future HVAC? The building looks great BTW!

I really cant see myself using 120V for the welder. I have my 50A plug in a central spot for anywhere inside and outside.

The two exterior plugs on the front side of the building will be GFCI plugs. I am up in Canada too, so some of the NEC stuff wont apply to my CEC.

2 exterior Lights on the front, with a box for one more.

Planning radiant slab heating, No plans for fans or the like. I will probably put up some sort of DIY air filtration eventually though.
 
I hear you guys forsure. I think ill be ok on that front. 4 separate circuits with 2 as 20A all within 15' of the lift.
With the way I laid out the circuits, they are all very obvious. Ill mark the panel and it will be self explanatory from that.


I really cant see myself using 120V for the welder. I have my 50A plug in a central spot for anywhere inside and outside.

The two exterior plugs on the front side of the building will be GFCI plugs. I am up in Canada too, so some of the NEC stuff wont apply to my CEC.

2 exterior Lights on the front, with a box for one more.

Planning radiant slab heating, No plans for fans or the like. I will probably put up some sort of DIY air filtration eventually though.
The welder plug is another problem for me, both of my 50a plugs are on the front wall, one center @20' and one at the panel.
Due to the lift and having a vehicle on it I can't get my welders to weld on the front of a vehicle on the lift.
To do it again I'd put a welder plug on the more central post of the lift, that would give me better access to the rear half of the shop.
 
I really cant see myself using 120V for the welder. I have my 50A plug in a central spot for anywhere inside and outside.
I'm just using worst case scenario.
I am up in Canada too, so some of the NEC stuff wont apply to my CEC.
Good deal! You'll know after the inspection. I had to add a new service on an existing building with no water. They failed me for not having one...

To do it again I'd put a welder plug on the more central post of the lift, that would give me better access to the rear half of the shop.
X2 I mainly just use the 240v plug by the door, not the one in the back.
 
The welder plug is another problem for me, both of my 50a plugs are on the front wall, one center @20' and one at the panel.
Due to the lift and having a vehicle on it I can't get my welders to weld on the front of a vehicle on the lift.
To do it again I'd put a welder plug on the more central post of the lift, that would give me better access to the rear half of the shop.
Ya that one I talked with my Dad about. He owned a structural steel fabrication shop so dealt with a few different ways of doing hookups in multiple shops. My plan was 3 outlets spread throughout the shop. He convinced me to put one plug central and put a 50' lead or extension on the welder. His logic was why put enough wire for 3 outlets spread out in the shop, when you could put one outlet, and put the money into extensions that you can then use to get the welder anywhere. Now Ill have the extensions will get the welder further outside, at races, etc. Even if it costs the same, you gain versatility.

I'm just using worst case scenario.

Good deal! You'll know after the inspection. I had to add a new service on an existing building with no water. They failed me for not having one...


X2 I mainly just use the 240v plug by the door, not the one in the back.
Fair enough. Even if I did use the welder in the back, I have 30A 220 Outlets for the machining equipment.
 
Daily update. Ready for the Electrical Rough in Inspection.
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While waiting on the inspector, were getting started on the insulation and put the first row of poly up. Hoping to have a good amount of the OSB on the ceiling and walls this weekend.

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Post Weekend Update. Had another really good weekend. My dad is off to Cuba for a bit so we wanted to get lots done and have stuff ready for me to tackle alone.
Friday we had the electrical inspector come and sign off on the rough in. No issues so we went straight into boarding. Got the poly up and the ceiling half sheeted on Saturday.
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Sometimes, you gotta work smart, not hard. While the 7/16 osb sheets aren't real heavy, a couple days of holding sheets above your head and then using the nailer would be miserable. With there being 62 sheets to go up, I recycled a shock bolt to make a handy sheet holder.
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Sunday we finished off the ceiling, and got the middle strip of OSB up, along with most of the back wall. I decided early on with this build that I wanted to make sure everything was accessible in case i wanted to make any additions or changes later on. We drilled the holes in the studs for the electrical starting at 4' above the grade beam. With the stud walls being 14'6", that would typically leave a 30" Strip at the top. Instead, I decided to move it down to the second row, Right where the electrical is ran. I will also be screwing these sheets rather than nail them. This way If I even want to add electrical, its as easy as removing the screwed sheets, lifting the insulation, and I have full access.
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Plan for while the old man is gone:
  • Run the Wires for the Lift - Planning to put a junction box with both the 110 (14/2) and the 220 30a (10/2) Above the insulation line in the attic, roughly above the post location. Then I will run the wires down when the lift is installed, likely in EMT conduit.
  • Install Ceiling lighting receptacles and the Lights so I can make sure I am happy with the lighting purchased. I picked up some Amazon 150W LED UFO lights. Will have 12 lights total for 270,000 lumens.
  • Install Security Camera
  • Continue to panel the interior as time allows.
 
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