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4th Gen 4Runner: Cross Country Runner

My tape measure isn’t lying. My rear driveshaft is going to come up short. :flipoff2:

The front half of the electronic case is much longer than the FJ case.
 
kerleyfries said:
Got me on that one. My point is that if you're using this thing to the point that you're wanting to delete ADD then you have enough modifications already hurting your mileage that the additional resistance from deleting the ADD is negligible.
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I disagree. He drives from Pennsylvania to Wyoming, Colorado, Montana, ect. Every year. 4000 mile round trip, fuel cost is a big deal. The whole reason the add exists is for fuel mileage. Even 1 mpg could be significant over that kind of distance.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I disagree. He drives from Pennsylvania to Wyoming, Colorado, Montana, ect. Every year. 4000 mile round trip, fuel cost is a big deal. The whole reason the add exists is for fuel mileage. Even 1 mpg could be significant over that kind of distance.
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especially at 85 mph.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I disagree. He drives from Pennsylvania to Wyoming, Colorado, Montana, ect. Every year. 4000 mile round trip, fuel cost is a big deal. The whole reason the add exists is for fuel mileage. Even 1 mpg could be significant over that kind of distance.
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The difference from 15mpg to 14mpg over 4k miles at $3.50 a gallon is $67. If $67 will blow your budget on a 2 week cross country trip then you need to keep your ass at home
 
kerleyfries said:
The difference from 15mpg to 14mpg over 4k miles at $3.50 a gallon is $67. If $67 will blow your budget on a 2 week cross country trip then you need to keep your ass at home
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:lmao:

Well fuck, you got me, I didn't do the math :homer:

I should go delete mine, I hate that the arb spider gears are just in there spinning away.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
:lmao:

Well fuck, you got me, I didn't do the math :homer:

I should go delete mine, I hate that the arb spider gears are just in there spinn
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Everyone freaks out about MPG until you start doing math. going to 33" AT's over 31" HT's costs you $6 per 1k miles just in tire wear. Say you lose 2 mpg too. You're less than $50 per 1k miles. That's one dinner out. (I'm using 285/70 Falken AT3's vs. 265/70 Michelin Defenders for this comparison)

Think about buying a $3k civic to "save on fuel". Once you add in insurance costs and wear/tear it's like a 5 year break-even if you keep your gas guzzler for wheeling / weekend trips or whatever.

Example - I put 22k miles on my F150 this year and averaged 15 vs. the factory 19 that my buddy is getting. It's lifted on 35's. The 4mpg and tire wear cost me roughly $900 over leaving it stock. Worth it to me because it looks way better and I've had it in a handful of positions where the lift and more aggressive tread has been beneficial.
 
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kerleyfries said:
Everyone freaks out about MPG until you start doing math. going to 33" AT's over 31" HT's costs you $6 per 1k miles just in tire wear. Say you lose 2 mpg too. You're less than $50 per 1k miles. That's one dinner out. (I'm using 285/70 Falken AT3's vs. 265/70 Michelin Defenders for this comparison)

Think about buying a $3k civic to "save on fuel". Once you add in insurance costs and wear/tear it's like a 5 year break-even if you keep your gas guzzler for wheeling / weekend trips or whatever.

Example - I put 22k miles on my F150 this year and averaged 15 vs. the factory 19 that my buddy is getting. It's lifted on 35's. The 4mpg and tire wear cost me roughly $900 over leaving it stock. Worth it to me because it looks way better and I've had it in a handful of positions where the lift and more aggressive tread has been beneficial.
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I agree, I always laugh when I hear people talking about getting a new car so they can save money on gas. :homer:
 
FleshEater said:
I had posted this in the NE group, just waiting on replies. But I know not everyone travels the whole forum (including me).

“Hey guys, we’re planning a 7 day trip around the north east this summer. I haven’t researched much, but wanted to pick your brains if you live up there.

We’re going to try and camp for two days and hit a hotel every 3rd day or so. But we’re wondering what your summers are like up there. Is it hot and humid all night like western Pennsylvania?

Also, is there a lot of options to camp from your vehicle up there? It’s not allowed in a lot of Pennsylvania, and I haven’t got a route planned yet, so just getting info. If we can car camp it allows us way more opportunities to just explore up there.

Any sites that are must see? Current idea is to hit Lake Placid, NY, to the White Mountains in NH, to Moosehead Lake, ME, then down to the coast, then head back towards home.”

___________________________________

To the guys who build stuff from metal here: Is 1.25” OD 1/8” thick square tubing overkill for a rear rack build out to also hold the weight of the fridge? Would smaller tube be fine?

I always overkill build and then it weighs a shit ton.
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I'm around 2 miles from intersection of rt20 and 30 in esperance 12066 . Your more than welcome to stay here if needed have a camp area thats all set up. There is some cool sites in the Catskill mountains. Rt 30 goes south aways or you can pickup 145 down that way which run into 30 in Middleburg. Rt 30 will also take you up into the Adirondack park. Speculator is just over an hour from my place . Ton of spots to camp in the Adirondacks, mostly state owned.
 
I’ve been searching car-part.com but no luck on 4.56 3rds to swap in.

I’m about to pull the thirds and send them to ECGS…just a lot of coin to drop. New bearings are probably not necessary, but I’m going to see if they’ll send my old parts back…because I’m a hoarder. :laughing: I’m also not 100% certain on what flange option I need. Might want to order harmonic, as I don’t think I can reuse my old flange on the 4.56 pinion.

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YotaAtieToo said:
I'd give them a call and see what they have to say about the flange.

Hard to not put new bearings in when you're already spending that kind of money.
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That’s what I was thinking as well. Already in there, might as well replace them. At 120,000+ miles though they’re probably good enough to hang onto in case I ever replace the wife’s Tahoe with another 4th gen.

Also, I whipped up a dedicated off road box. I can toss this into the Tracker, 4Runner, Samurai (once done), etc. for trail runs. It’s a medium Milwaukee packout and I bought doubles of some tools from Tekton. They’re decent enough for infrequent use. The Milwaukee case also fits nicely.

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FleshEater said:
I’ve been searching car-part.com but no luck on 4.56 3rds to swap in.

I’m about to pull the thirds and send them to ECGS…just a lot of coin to drop. New bearings are probably not necessary, but I’m going to see if they’ll send my old parts back…because I’m a hoarder. :laughing: I’m also not 100% certain on what flange option I need. Might want to order harmonic, as I don’t think I can reuse my old flange on the 4.56 pinion.

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If you can cover the cost up front, I'd order them have them ship the cores. It makes life so easy, and you can swap both in a day and minimize down time, rather than have your truck on stands for 2-3 weeks or more. Ends up being the same out of pocket within 30 days.

No use in having them return your used bearings.. They'll just get stuck in a corner and never touched. Not even useful as spares, and if you're tearing something apart to replace bearings then just put new ones in.

Snap a pic of your current rear 3rd and we can help figure out what flange you need, but I'll bet money you just need a standard used flange.
 
kerleyfries said:
If you can cover the cost up front, I'd order them have them ship the cores. It makes life so easy, and you can swap both in a day and minimize down time, rather than have your truck on stands for 2-3 weeks or more. Ends up being the same out of pocket within 30 days.

No use in having them return your used bearings.. They'll just get stuck in a corner and never touched. Not even useful as spares, and if you're tearing something apart to replace bearings then just put new ones in.

Snap a pic of your current rear 3rd and we can help figure out what flange you need, but I'll bet money you just need a standard used flange.
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All I need is a standard used flange.

I don’t even drive this. It’s fine sitting on jack stands. :flipoff2:
 
kerleyfries said:
If you can cover the cost up front, I'd order them have them ship the cores.
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ECGS makes this very simple as well. Plus, they do a good job of packaging, so it's uber simple to re-use for the cores.
 
FleshEater said:
If this isn’t their busy season I don’t think it will take 3 weeks.

From ECGS.
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I'd also just go cores. Packaging is super easy to reuse, and shipping on their FedEx account will be way cheaper than you shipping your diffs by yourself.

FWIW I ordered a 2wk lead time diff from them 4wks ago and just got it. When I called and talked to them I was told they were swamped right now.
 
I called a week or so ago and placed the order to have diffs mailed to me. The core charge sucks, but it’s easier than figuring out how to mail two diffs with my own packaging.

Should be about two or three more weeks and I’ll be swapping them in.

Does anyone know if I can delete the ADD without having a dash light on at all times? Will it even affect the dash light?
 
There’s a thread on tacomaworld regarding wiring in a DPDT relay to a switch in which you’re basically using the switch to tell the truck it’s in 4wd. I spent all of like 30 minutes trying to figure it out and decided I didn’t give a fuck.

I’d just pull the lights out of the dash since it’s now a manual shift tcase. If you don’t know if you’re in 4wd then move the shift lever on the tcase.
 
Well ECGS delivered quickly and I got them this week.

Just got the rear 3rd member back in. I fought it quite a bit and it’s like I moved it the magic way and it just fell in. Those damn copper lines are nerve-wracking.

Anyways, gotta bleed the brakes, fill the diff tomorrow, and then start on the front. I’ll run the air and the switch later so I can take my time routing it all past the exhaust.

Pattern was perfect.

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Is this a factory LSD carrier? Or is a Toyota carrier just different than every other one I’ve seen?

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Just a reg 8" v-6 carrier ,they all look like that except the 8.4. Did you get the bushing install in the front dif to replace needle bearing?
 
Cryptictoy said:
Just a reg 8" v-6 carrier ,they all look like that except the 8.4. Did you get the bushing install in the front dif to replace needle bearing?
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I did. I haven’t torn into the front yet to fully comprehend what’s going on up there.
 
This is almost done, working on the electrical side now.

However, I have opened up a can of worms. Looking over all the wiring I did previously and extremely tempted to make it more perfect looking. It’s one of those things I thought looked okay when I did it, and now it’s bugging me. :shaking:
 
Got this all put back together. Worked the leaks out of the air. Cleaned up the wiring under the dash and the center console.
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I have only been driving this up and down the driveway, but can tell a difference in 4lo 1st gear for sure.

The selectable locker is also absolutely awesome. I knew I’d like being able to switch locked/unlocked, but had no idea how much I would enjoy it. The white Tracker could use one of these. :smokin:

Anyways, going to try and clean up under the hood soon with another relay/fuse block set up. Also got to scope out my rear air for when I do the FJ case swap, which might be this fall. I don’t want to rush it before the northeast trip in July.

That is all. :flipoff2:
 
I don't envy having to run wires and air line front to back on that thing :laughing:

That rear arb will be a game changer for this thing. Nothing effected until you need it.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I don't envy having to run wires and air line front to back on that thing :laughing:

That rear arb will be a game changer for this thing. Nothing effected until you need it.
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This is, literally, the easiest vehicle I’ve ever modified or ran wiring on. Tons of room.

My engine bay is wide open, unlike the 3.4. :flipoff2:
 
FleshEater said:
My wife complains it’s too small…and she drives a Tahoe.

How small is a 3rd gen, then?! I’ve actually never seen one up close, or drove one. Not many around here.
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3rd gen 4runner/1st gen tacoma is basically the same size as all the real mini trucks like 80s and 90s Toyotas, Nissan, rangers, ect. 4th gen 4runner and 2nd gen tacoma bumped up in size. 6" wider maybe?
 
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