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2000 tracker automatic transmission into a samurai body chassis fitment?

Landslide

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
422
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I have a plan of stuffing my 2000 tracker 2.0 with automatic transmission into my 88.5 samurai body/chassis. I’ve searched YouTube, here and web and haven’t found anything about doing it.

My concern is transmission tunnel interference with the larger transmission into the samurai body/chassis. How much trouble will this be? I’m cutting the tunnel out of the tracker incase I may need to use it for modifications. I see issues with the seats in my mind but not positive on this.

Anyone point me where I can find info on this?
 
Nothing but the tiny ass Sami 5 speed will fit without modification.

Trail tough sells a kit that comes with laser cut panels if you want easy.

You keeping the Sami tcase?

 
Another area of concern is the length of the drivetrain. What is your plan for transfer case?
 
Another area of concern is the length of the drivetrain. What is your plan for transfer case?

Believe it or not, the Sami trans/driveshaft/tcase is pretty long. The kit I linked allows you to keep the Sami tcase in the stock spot with a shortened intermediate shaft.

I'd bet keeping the tracker tcase is really close in length as well.

Just like any zuk, if road driving is in the plan, the Sami case is probably the way to go, as 5.29/5.38 gears are only good for about 32s gearing wise.
 
Nothing but the tiny ass Sami 5 speed will fit without modification.

Trail tough sells a kit that comes with laser cut panels if you want easy.

You keeping the Sami tcase?

Cool thanks, I’ll check that out.

I’m leaning towards contacting that Kieth guy and get an adapter made to use a top shift Toyota case.
 
Another area of concern is the length of the drivetrain. What is your plan for transfer case?
I’m stretching the ass end of the Sami out. Or should I say, I’m going to cut it off behind the B pillar and tube bed it out back. Long bed kinda thing.
 
Believe it or not, the Sami trans/driveshaft/tcase is pretty long. The kit I linked allows you to keep the Sami tcase in the stock spot with a shortened intermediate shaft.

I'd bet keeping the tracker tcase is really close in length as well.

Just like any zuk, if road driving is in the plan, the Sami case is probably the way to go, as 5.29/5.38 gears are only good for about 32s gearing wise.
Only main issue with running the tracker Tcase is its slip joint output shafts. If there’s a drive flange kit - slip joint eliminator kit or other method to convert it over, I’d be very interested in that
 
I'm using Keith's doubler setup with a Toyota top shift t-case. From the crank pulley to the t-case output flange it's roughly 68" long.
 
Cool thanks, I’ll check that out.

I’m leaning towards contacting that Kieth guy and get an adapter made to use a top shift Toyota case.

That would be cool except for anemic high range. What size tires and how much street driving?

One funny thing about the tracker case is it's 1.8:1 low and the high range in 6.5 cases is 1.7:1. So it wouldn't hurt at all to use the tracker case in low for around town or mountain driving. Then maybe high if hitting the freeway.

I'd really like to see him make a tracker case to lt230 adapter. I'd buy one if anyone else is interested.

Only main issue with running the tracker Tcase is its slip joint output shafts. If there’s a drive flange kit - slip joint eliminator kit or other method to convert it over, I’d be very interested in that

Trail tough to the rescue again. :laughing:
 
There are a LOT more issues with the tracker transfer than the slip yokes. The direct high range means diff gears need to be crazy low. Low range is tall and whilst there are 3.0 and 4.2 low range sets, because high range isn't lowered you still need super low diff gears if you need to drive the car on the road. The transfer front drive chain is prone to stretch when reduction gears are fitted, and once you're though all that, the rear output is inline with the crank instead of ~5" lower on the Samurai case so rear driveshaft angle becomes much steeper. Centred rear pumpkins suck too compared to front and rear being aligned.

If the Tracker case was strong or something it might be worth cutting up the car to run it ( the rear output will clash with the body mount crossmember) but I can't see the point . They're not desirable.
 
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