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1990 Suburban....Wife's daily driver/family camping rig build

slowlygettingthere

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cousinfuckingbama
We have had this thing a couple years. Finally getting it ready to start taking a few trips in it I hope. As it was when we bought it except for the wheels/tires.

1990 burb 1500

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it had a add-a-leaf and a overload spring on the front for lift and blocks in the rear. Swapped a d60 in the front to fix some of that. She drove it a little while longer till I got ready to swap the 14b in the rear.


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And after pulling the rear.

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Just doing the normal stuff for now to get it back going. 4:56 gears, Detroit in rear front is open for now. Just doing crossover steering for now till we start using it for more than street driving. Test fitting the tires before adding the Xtra lift and moving front forward an inch. Going to be in the 4-5 inch range I hope.

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37's with 2" blocks in the rear and the add-a-leaf in the front.
 
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Thanks. I have a winch and will be building some bumpers and rocksliders/steps for the side. It is already a little tall for her. Adding the 37's and another inch or 2 of lift will make her have to pull on the door too much to get in it. This thing sat for a few years I think. Since she has been driving it regularly everything is leaking. It is a 350/350 with a 241. I would eventually like to do some type of motor swap. I already have a nv4500/ecobox/ 205 combo in another project but the wife wants to keep it auto. so we will see how it goes.
 
350 still tbi?

Very nice i dig it
Even cooler the wife willing to drive
Yep it is all stock except for the suspension and now the axles. The wife fawking loves it. She wouldn't even agree to the "upgrades" unless I could get it done quick. The rear main seal is pouring oil. I will have to pull the engine and reseal it at a minimum in a few months.
 
Small update. I ordered some add-a-leafs to use on the rear. Well turns out they will not work. It stops at 87 for 1/2t burbs and goes to 91 for 2500. I guess there was a spring change in 88 for 1/2t maybe. Haven't researched it yet. Anyway so I built some bastard packs out of springs I already had and the stock ones.

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Ended up with this spring pack. I have no idea if it will be overly stiff, soft or too tall. Going to get the 14b shaved, perches and shock mounts on tomorrow I hope. I will be able to see where the springs stand at that point.

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I should be able to remove the zero rate when all is said and done but I wanted to test fit with it on to check. The stock springs were soft enough to have the overloads rubbed to bare steel from hitting them regularly with nothing in the back of it.
 
Small update. I ordered some add-a-leafs to use on the rear. Well turns out they will not work. It stops at 87 for 1/2t burbs and goes to 91 for 2500. I guess there was a spring change in 88 for 1/2t maybe. Haven't researched it yet. Anyway so I built some bastard packs out of springs I already had and the stock ones.

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Ended up with this spring pack. I have no idea if it will be overly stiff, soft or too tall. Going to get the 14b shaved, perches and shock mounts on tomorrow I hope. I will be able to see where the springs stand at that point.

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I should be able to remove the zero rate when all is said and done but I wanted to test fit with it on to check. The stock springs were soft enough to have the overloads rubbed to bare steel from hitting them regularly with nothing in the back of it.
Niiice:smokin:
 
I've made frakenleaf packs a few times using two sets of OEM springs. They were fairly stiff, but nothing I couldn't live with for about a decade before I got a custom set made.
 
I've made frakenleaf packs a few times using two sets of OEM springs. They were fairly stiff, but nothing I couldn't live with for about a decade before I got a custom set made.
I have the stock burb main leaf mixed with some springs out of a 78 1 ton chevy rear pack and the bottom burb leaf and overload. I don't know if all the burbs had offset pin packs. That's why add-a-leaf wouldn't work.

I plan on doing some custom springs but want to get it closer to "done" to make sure the front and rear weights are more accurate.


After a little looking maybe 88-91 4x4 1/2t burbs got the 56" spring like the 2wds had for years. Idk the good charts that used to be avaliable are not as easily found.
 
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A little update. Rear is under it to test spring height. Perches and shock mounts still have to be welded on. This should be pretty close to ride height.

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We started on the front. Cleaning up the front axle to do a little painting. The wife giving a helping hand and the dog watching what's going on.



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As it sits now. Going to swap the stock fronts for some 1 ton stock front spring. Will be using a zero rate to add another inch and move axle forward an inch. I hope that will be enough for the tires to clear with some minor trimming.


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Little more done. Stock front 1 ton front springs with a zero rate and the axle forward 1 inch.


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Going to have to do a little trimming. I would like to get it about 1 inch higher but might just go with it as is.


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Found a new way to keep me from having to drill a new hole for the spring center pin.:grinpimp:


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It's a shame 52's up front would probably lift it higher than you want, they are a nice upgrade in ride and cheap mod to do. Truck looks great at that height but maybe just the 2-2.5" lift springs and the zero rate.
 
It's a shame 52's up front would probably lift it higher than you want, they are a nice upgrade in ride and cheap mod to do. Truck looks great at that height but maybe just the 2-2.5" lift springs and the zero rate.
I have thought about using 52's up front. I have a set, but that is really higher than I want it to sit. My wife isn't all that tall so she has to hop up in it as is. I'm also trying to keep it low enough to get in Children's Hospital parking garage. 2 to 3 total should still clear, 4 to 5 inches will not.

I plan to do custom springs this fall. I have to get it "done" enough to get accurate weights before ordering them.
 
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52's with a leaf pulled would probably work.

I've worked many a set of springs with offset pins, just need to re-drill accordingly but you can't generate any heat while drilling. It hardens quick and you're toast.

Blair Roto Broach's work great for this

edit: They work great for any other holes you need in this thing too. A full on staple when I was messing with square bodies
 
the wood is joke right?:cool2:
Yes was just trying to check ride height before i had spring plates drilled. I will also be cleaning the knuckles up and painting them as well. Just going to wait till I pull the hubs apart and check everything. Trying to get this thing driving by Sunday as a Mother's Day gift.
 
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My 4" springs have more arch then that. Just from an eye ball 2" springs will probably land where you want to be.

Be careful with the parking garage height. If you are very close as is I'd stick with what you have.

Stock springs with the front move forward an inch is going to be most likely fine with 37s unless you have a lot of offset. I wouldn't run 52's or more lift for them for what you are trying to accomplish.
 
My 4" springs have more arch then that. Just from an eye ball 2" springs will probably land where you want to be.

Be careful with the parking garage height. If you are very close as is I'd stick with what you have.

Stock springs with the front move forward an inch is going to be most likely fine with 37s unless you have a lot of offset. I wouldn't run 52's or more lift for them for what you are trying to accomplish.

I should have just bought springs for the front. I thought the extra weight capacity of the ton springs would hold it up a little taller than the clapped out stock 1/2 t. I'm a cheap ass too. Plus I plan on adding a winch as well.

NY son only has to go to Women & Children's Center once or twice a year. Should be clear by a inch or more on that garage. He will age out of there in another year or so. Callahan Eye Foundation on the other hand, has a garage that is only 6"6" I think. It would not have cleared with tires that were bigger than was on it. No way will it with the lift and tires..

I want to keep it as low as possible without having to trim more than just lower edge of the front fenders. Will make it safer for my wife to drive and get in and out of.
 
A little progress over the weekend.


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Ended up taking the zero rate off and putting the 2" block back in. I also swapped the stock burb main leaf for the 1ton main. From the looks of it, made it sit lower. That is not what I was going for but it's going to get test drove as is. As close as it is setting to the overload I will probably have to add another leaf to keep it from bouncing off the overload spring. Will add the shock mounts when I can drive it close enough for my welder to reach it.
 
I have the stock burb main leaf mixed with some springs out of a 78 1 ton chevy rear pack and the bottom burb leaf and overload. I don't know if all the burbs had offset pin packs. That's why add-a-leaf wouldn't work.

I plan on doing some custom springs but want to get it closer to "done" to make sure the front and rear weights are more accurate.


After a little looking maybe 88-91 4x4 1/2t burbs got the 56" spring like the 2wds had for years. Idk the good charts that used to be avaliable are not as easily found.
OE leaf spring chart

Hope this helps in the future.
Love the build. My wife loves our ‘90 burb. It’s too rusty in the rear to be a true daily, but I told her I’d get her a better one someday soon while I turn the current one into a dedicated family off-roader:beer:
 
I was running 37" HMMWV tires on my CUCV with very wide steel rims from an 80s Ford. Not a ton of offset and width but more then the usual 16.5" rim.

I originally had to trim the rear edge of the fender with a 4" lift. Then I pushed the front axle forward an inch and did crossover. Didn't come close to touching. So the axle bump forward gains you a lot in the clearance department.

I always trim the front of the fender up a bit halfway up the bumper anyway.
 
OE leaf spring chart

Hope this helps in the future.
Love the build. My wife loves our ‘90 burb. It’s too rusty in the rear to be a true daily, but I told her I’d get her a better one someday soon while I turn the current one into a dedicated family off-roader:beer:
Ha I looked for a spring chart and even searched on here but didn't find that one. Thanks.

This one is really clean on the inside. Outside is straight but worn. Not bad for a 35 year old burb though. We plan on this being the ride we grow old with errr I grow older working on.
 
Got brake lines hooked up and brakes bled. I was going to use hard line on axle and braided at the calipers. Just quicker to do soft line all the way and I can get the parts from the shop I work at. Still got to put a couple line clamps on. I used a 28" and a 30" line. Probably would have been a little better if I would have used a 26" and 28".


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Took over 50oz of fresh fluid to get it to looking somewhat clean. Looked like a old oil pan in the bottom of the master.
 
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