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1989 Jeep Cherokee 1 ton swap

RunningProblem said:
fl0w3n yeah and if I could figure out how to install a pair of rear seats with a 5 point harness I might actually take them more. Well…at least my kid. I’m not sure the neighbors want their kids in the shitbox.
It definitely made entertaining them and getting things done much easier. It probably wouldn’t have worked as well if they were brothers. For some reason brothers fight over everything.
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I fought with my brother constantly as a kid. But I was older so I usually won :flipoff2:
 
fl0w3n said:
I fought with my brother constantly as a kid. But I was older so I usually won :flipoff2:
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Older brothers suck. at least mine does. Thankfully he got fat and I stayed in shape due to this problem I have that won’t go away.
 
Removed from garage. I’ll figure out limiting the hydro assist, plumbing a plate cooler, and maybe finish my exhaust another time. It say so long it can sit outside, and I can wheel it if someone invites me.
 
I did a thing but now it won’t work properly so I need to undo it. Thankfully I didn’t weld my hydraulic ram mount to the tie rod so I can fix it. :flipoff2:

Internally limiting the ram, based on the way I have it setup, will limit the right turn/outward travel of the ram. I’m stupid and thought I could limit the INWARD travel this way. Moving the clamp should fix it so I get full extension, then limit turning left/driver. In theory this works. In practice…my steering now doesn’t contact the bump stops. It was Halloween so I went jogging to think about something else. Plus it was cold outside.
 

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dialed hydro assist around last night then fixed a leaking beadlock. When I was driving around I slammed on the breaks and now something is making a bang noise in the rear and shifting is kind of odd. This should be fun to figure out. I don’t know what I’d break by slamming on the brakes but I’m sure it’s something rare and complicated. Maybe it’s a limit strap flopping around but I doubt it.

I also had to adjust my steering stops. I don’t know why but I get less steering with my Durango box than my stock cherokee box. I should figure out how to rebuild the stock box, then give myself some more room for steering. By the time I get this all fixed up it’s going to be time to sell it.

I also had it die and not want to start. Turns out the ballast resistor is important enough to be required to start. Amazing what a difference it makes with the fuel pump when it’s hooked up.
 
I go to this place during the week where they give me money to spend when I’m bored. Late at night I spend too much time on the World Wide Web reading simplifications of complicated processes done by experienced professionals so I spend the money I’ve been given.

I am bored with too much time on my hands and someone left me kidless and unsupervised. I also had money burning a hole in my pocket so I decided to attempt fixing my stock steering box as a back up to the Durango box. Maybe I’ll put it back in because I enjoy the process so much.

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RunningProblem said:
dialed hydro assist around last night then fixed a leaking beadlock. When I was driving around I slammed on the breaks and now something is making a bang noise in the rear and shifting is kind of odd. This should be fun to figure out. I don’t know what I’d break by slamming on the brakes but I’m sure it’s something rare and complicated. Maybe it’s a limit strap flopping around but I doubt it.

I also had to adjust my steering stops. I don’t know why but I get less steering with my Durango box than my stock cherokee box. I should figure out how to rebuild the stock box, then give myself some more room for steering. By the time I get this all fixed up it’s going to be time to sell it.
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Can't sell it until I come out and we run Fordyce. You are my trail guide:flipoff2::flipoff2:
 
Mike Honcho said:
Can't sell it until I come out and we run Fordyce. You are my trail guide:flipoff2::flipoff2:
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I’ve broken on Fordyce both times. I haven’t even made it to Winch Hill 1. So bring some hiking shoes. :flipoff2:


Actually, I need to go look into your seats more. I don’t know how you did the front seats plus the doubler even with cutting. Mine have stupid narrow seat brackets up front so I’d probably need some 1/8 flat stock to make some type of ghettofab adapter for aftermarket seats to fit in the stock location. After that I’d need a cage to mount child restraints so my seamen demons could give their mother a day or two alone.
 
Mike Honcho said:
Can't sell it until I come out and we run Fordyce. You are my trail guide:flipoff2::flipoff2:
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Don’t forget about me fuckers
RunningProblem said:
Mine have stupid narrow seat brackets up front so I’d probably need some 1/8 flat stock to make some type of ghettofab adapter for aftermarket seats to fit in the stock location.
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Our early years have different seat mounting in front than his later model. I was able to make a bracket that used the factory slider for my Corbeau seats, but I haven’t hacked the tunnel up for the doubler yet
RunningProblem said:
seamen demons
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:lmao::lmao:
 
that would be IBB Ultimate Adventure 2024.
I just need to borrow my rich neighbor’s trailer for when I fuck my shit up.
 
After trying to replace the sector shaft seals in the stock box I threw it in the trash. All the seal sets are too thick. Even the smallest ones won’t work so I’ll tear out another Durango box form the junk yard and see if I can rebuild that one and remove the limits it has. :mad3:
I don’t know how people rebuilt these things year ago when today’s parts don’t fit. Doesn’t matter. It’s cheaper than a $1,000 PSC big bore box. Not like this will ever get wheeled.
 
Mike Honcho said:
There is a really good bleepin Jeep video on rebuilding steering boxes.
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The kit he put in his link says it’s for a 96 and newer box.
The kit I bought for the 89 box had the same seals Napa had. This matches the video NicnInTime put when he replaces the seals. He didn’t give a part number by says there is a thick and a thin gasket. This is what I have. When i put them in there is no space to put the C clip in. This is without the washers which would obviously cause more of a problem.

Either this box is the exception to every rule and the final outer seal goes on TOP of the C clip, or there is something wrong with this whole situation. It would be

Box
Bearing
Seal
Washer
C clip
Gasket


There was a plastic gasket in one of these seals when I took it apart. Good thing I didn’t think about taking detailed photos of the disassembly.
 
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C clip goes in the groove
Bearing sits close with the lip behind it
There isn’t anywhere else to put the C clip
Smashing the seal into the bearing isn’t working.
 
This is all I can get to make sense
Then another gasket on top of this held in by hopes and dreams.


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Then push another seal in there with hopes and dreams. I’m not sure it serves any purpose.


I don’t recall this coming out this way…

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My buddy still rebuilds and taps stock boxes, I think he had to do some figuring on seals and stuff and has a stack to choose from

He may have one for sale if you need it :flipoff2:
 
I think I’d rather buy the PSC big bore box than mess around with Durango/Cherokee boxes anymore.
 
Disc brake swap using a Ruffstuff kit. Unsure what calipers or rotors they use. They have no parking break so I’m sure it’s a common Chevy application. They had a threaded hole for the -3AN fitting I used on the drums. These are not DOT approved lines. The kit included them and I didn’t want to change brake lines and buy a female to female adapter. I did think I should maybe put the -3am fitting on the top of the caliper, but I thought about it after and figured it was fine since the brake lines are not hanging below the axle tube.

Since the rear axle is the late 80s Ford Sterling 10.25 the install required the included spacer. Everything went in much easier than I expected. It’s a well put together kit and now I look less like the cover of The Hardy Boys and The Acetone Smelling House.

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When I moved the Jeep I let it idle for a while and saw 260 on the temp gauge. When I switch to the metal coolant tank to replace the plastic one after it cracked I never added an overflow tank. I don’t know where I’d put it, and it would probably prevent my engine from being covered in coolant.
 

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Looks like you need an angled bracket or mount the bracket on the outside? This doesn’t look right at all.

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Rotor was crooked and I realized it as soon as I was testing the brakes in the garage. Also, for some reason on this side when I was trying to get the caliper on the bolts kept wanting to push the rubber in the caliper out. It was annoyingly time consuming to get everything lined up correctly. Passenger side went on no problem.

also I used 1 1/2” bolts. These weren’t included with the kit.

I forgot to mention, when the engine was hitting 260F on the gauge my electric fan didn’t kick on. When I loosened the radiator cap there was planet of steam coming out. I don’t know why the electric fan wouldn’t kick on. When I broke onFordyce I had forgotten to plug the fan back in and it kicked on. This time it just refused to kick on. It’s done nothing but sit in front of my house ensuring my neighbors won’t find new renters, and bringing property values down for my wife’s house.
 
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